Koh Bulon Le is definitely one of the most unspoiled and untouched by mass tourism islands in Thailand. There are no big parties, no speedboats going back and forth and electricity is available only for a few hours per day. It’s a big contrast compared to nearby and very popular Koh Lipe.

With a size of about 3 square kilometres, it’s a really small piece of paradise that can be walked around easily in a few minutes without any stress related to traffic as simply there are no cars and only a few motorbikes owned by the locals. Sounds interesting?

How to get to Koh Bulon?

First of all, I travelled to Koh Bulon Le in March 2022 when tourism in Thailand still wasn’t back to its pre-pandemic shape. The minibus took me from Trang to Pakbara Pier where I got on a speedboat to Koh Lipe. After spending a few days there, I took another speedboat directly to Koh Bulon. It was quite a fun experience as there is no proper pier on the island and instead, the speedboat approached the beach as close as possible and then I had to jump over the side into the water and just walk to the shore. Luckily, a staff member helped to carry my luggage!

Unfortunately, getting out of the island wasn’t that easy as there were no speedboats connecting the island back with Pakbara Pier. But, it is Thailand and nothing is impossible! After chatting with a very kind receptionist at my accommodation, she made a few phone calls and found someone who knew someone who was going to Pakbara Pier the next day with a longtail boat to sell fish. For me, such local transport is always better than a speedboat and we even had a short stop at Koh Don!

In normal seasons, speedboats are operating en route from Phuket to Koh Lipe, usually making stops and picking up passengers at Phi Phi Islands, Krabi, Koh Lanta and Trang Islands. Koh Bulon isn’t that popular but it is on the way and most operators can drop you off there.

Alternatively, you can get a bus from Trang to Pakbara Pier and then continue to Koh Bulon Le. Or make your way from Pakbara Pier to Koh Lipe and then stop at Koh Bulon Le on the way back, exactly as I did.

If coming by air, the closest airports are in Hat Yai and Trang. You can check all the transport options and timetables, as well as book your ticket, on 12Go.Asia.

When to go?

I strongly recommend travelling in the high season, between October and April. In the rainy season, getting to Koh Bulon Leh isn’t impossible but much more difficult and definitely more expensive. You will rely on local longtail boats and your negotiation skills. There also might be days when the sea is too bumpy to go.

How long to stay?

It’s a small island so I would say that 1 full day should be enough to visit all the exciting places and enjoy beach time. However, if you want to slow down and simply live life without any pressure and worries, consider staying a bit longer.

Where to stay?

The East side of the island has the best beach and good resorts, such as Pansand Resort or Bulone Resort. If you want to save some money, you may look for accommodation in the northern part. I recommend Chaolay Homestay. It was a bit of a walk from the speedboat drop-off point as you basically need to cross the whole island. With a bag and in heat, but that’s ok 🙂 For 600 THB per night, you get a bamboo bungalow with a really good mosquito net, fan and a private bathroom. The host is very friendly and courteous. Electricity is switched on from about 6 PM and it goes off at about 11 PM, so it would be just you and the sound of millions of cicadas. Probably it’s a good idea to have a flashlight, just in case.

I couldn’t find this place on booking.com, nor on agoda.com, so here is the phone number: +66 86 967 0716. In my case, I just found it on Google Maps, by reading recommendations and went there without booking.

Getting around the island

Options are limited to… walking! It takes about 20 minutes to walk from one side of the island to the other, so really don’t bother about any kind of bike. Koh Bulon Leh is covered in thick jungle, but narrow footpaths are clearly visible.

What to do on Koh Bulon?

There is not a lot to do, but that’s exactly the point. Besides spending time on the beach, there are other classic activities available, such as kayaking, snorkelling or rather short hiking. There are a few nice places to eat but don’t expect the nightlife to be much wilder than some beers while chatting with friends.

White Sand Beach

Long sandy beach with shallow water and good snorkelling opportunities not far from the shore. There are some resorts around, but don’t worry – access isn’t for guests only and everyone can enjoy this place.

Ao Panka Noy

Another nice beach with fine restaurants. Not as good for swimming as White Sand Beach but it’s only a short walk so why not check it out?

Ao Panka Yai

The closest beach to Chaolay Homestay. There are some hammocks so you can chill and watch the sunset, but unfortunately, there was quite a lot of rubbish too.

Mango Bay

It’s a hotspot for local fishermen so there are a few fishing boats and lots of nets on the beach. I wouldn’t say it’s a good place for relaxing, but the walking path to this place is nice and you may even walk a bit further on the rocks on the right side of the beach if the tide allows.

Koh Mak is a mid-size island, much smaller than its popular neighbours Koh Chang and Koh Kut, but that gives it additional charm. In fact, it’s only 10km from east to west and 5km from north to south, so you could basically walk around. The landscape isn’t too exciting though and you won’t find here any jungle or mountains. What you will find are mostly coconut groves and rubber plantations. Koh Mak is a quiet place, which probably isn’t the best spot for nightlife enthusiasts. But if you like peace and the feeling of the local community, you will like it.

How to get to Koh Mak?

Getting to the island in the high season is quite easy as there are boat connections with both Koh Chang (Bang Bao Pier) and Koh Kut. If you travel from the mainland, then head to Laem Ngop Pier and take a speedboat to Ao Nid pier on Koh Mak. The cost should be about 450 THB one way.

If you travel by public transport from Bangkok, the best would be to take a direct bus from Ekkamai to Laem Ngop Pier or if not possible, then to Trat and continue by taxi or by pickup truck to the pier.

Trat has also its own small airport with flights from Bangkok operated by Bangkok Airways. However, the total cost of travel, including transfer to the town or pier to the islands is totally not worth it.

Travelling outside of the main season is a completely different story. On most of the websites, you can find the information that boats between islands stop operating between June – September. In practice, when I was there between May 21st – May 22nd, the boats were already cancelled. According to a travel agent, it happened a bit earlier this season (for whatever reason) and I was one week too late. In such a case, the only option was to come back from Koh Chang back to the mainland, take a taxi to a different pier and then a speedboat to Koh Mak. Very complicated and a bit annoying travel, taking into consideration how close these two islands are and what a big detour you have to make to get from one to another.

When to go?

I strongly recommend travelling in the high season, between October and mid-May. Getting around the islands in the Koh Chang archipelago is just so much easier and cheaper, not the mention better weather. There are not many things to do on Koh Mak rather than water activities and spending time on the beach, so when it’s super windy or it rains, the fun is gone.

How long to stay?

It’s a small island so I would say that 2 full days should be enough to visit all the exciting places and enjoy beach time.

Where to stay?

Hotels, bungalows and resorts, all of these are available on the island at various prices. I stayed in Sea View Resort, which was affordable and quite clean (at least the room), but not as close to the beach as popular resorts. Unfortunately, the area around the bungalows was messy and overgrown. The owner arranged a pickup taxi from the pier for 100 THB and assisted in booking return boat tickets. They rent motorbikes too, but they look like they have never been cleaned before. It’s the okayish place for one night, but I would definitely look for an alternative in case of a longer stay. You can make a reservation on booking.com or agoda.com.

Getting around the island

Options are limited to pick-up trucks or rental motorbikes and classic bikes. I always opt for my own wheels and that time was no different. I got a black Honda Click, one of the most popular motorbike models in Thailand, from my accommodation. The cost for 24 hours was 250 THB, including fuel.

A classic bicycle would be fine too as the island is very flat and there is little car traffic, but temperatures over 30C could be exhausting.

If travelling in a bigger group, getting pick-up truck taxis would be the best but sometimes they can be difficult to find and you may need to ask for them in a restaurant or nearby shop, so they can call the driver. 50 THB per person will get you to most places on the island or you can negotiate your own itinerary with the driver.

Beaches

Koh Mak has the shape of a starfish with many picturesque bays and beaches that can be reached within a couple of minutes on a motorbike. If it’s windy on one side, just go to the other. Here is an overview.

Ao Kao

Long sandy beach with shallow water. However, rubbish can be a problem, especially after periods of bad weather. From here you can also take a boat or rent a kayak and paddle to Ko Rayang Nai and Ko Rayang Nok.

Maruey Beach

Pretty narrow but beautiful with coconut tree shades.

Ao Lom

The road here goes through the jungle and it’s not for first-timers on the motorbike. You can see the small island Ko Phi just in front. It’s a good snorkelling spot too but be aware of the currents.

Ao Phra

I recommend parking your motorbike in front of Mira Montra Resort and accessing the beach from there. You can also rent a kayak and paddle to Ko Kham Island for a good couple of hours.

Ao Suan Yai

Nice place to swim in shallow waters and has good sunset views. There are a few restaurants and bars around to chill. Ko Kham Island is just in front and you can easily get there by kayak.

Ao Tao Khai (Turtle Beach)

20 minutes walk through the jungle and you get to a beautiful deserted beach, where most likely you will be alone.

Ao Tan

Just around Cinnamon Resort and wooden pier. This beach is quite lonely and not very good for swimming as the shoreline has more mangroves, but worth checking out nevertheless.

Ao Pai

Next to Ao Nid Pier. Nice to walk on with great views of Koh Kut but not ideal for swimming. There are red sand and stones.

Laem Son

A very cool place which is accessible via a paved road and a dirt track to the far northeastern tip of the island. There is a small place where you can get a cold drink and something to eat.  A kilometre offshore is the island of Koh Kradad, famous for a large herd of deer living there. if you want to go there, ask the locals in a bar.

Nearby islands

Koh Kham

Take a kayak and paddle yourself or use one of the regular longtail boat services from Koh Mak Resort or Prompakdee Resort. You will need to pay the entrance fee of 200 THB upon arrival. The sand on the beach is soft and white and there is some good snorkelling around.

Koh Kradad

Head to Cinnamon Art Resort or Laem Son Beach to rent a kayak or find a longtail boat that will take you there. It’s flat and quite easy to walk around. The beach is nice and long and there is a herd of deers wandering around.

Koh Phi

The kayak can be rented from Cococape Resort. I didn’t see any longtail boats going there but apparently, if you book an island tour by boat then Koh Phi will be among the places you stop off at. There is nothing to do on the island itself, just the snorkelling around is quite worth it but also not mind-blowing.

Koh Rayang Nai and Koh Rayang Nok

These two islands can be easily seen from Ao Kao Beach. Koh Rayang Nai has one small shrine in memory of one of the founders of the island and that’s basically it. On Koh Rayang Nok, there is a small Rayang Nature Resort that can be visited. The admission fee is 200 THB in case you rent a kayak and paddle there by yourself. Otherwise, ask around for the boat at Ao Kao Beach. Generally, it’s an excellent place to rest on the beach and do some snorkelling  

Other interesting places

Wat Koh Mak

The best spot to have a panoramic view of the island. The temple is quiet and has an impressive big Bodhi tree as well as a beautiful statue of Buddha overlooking the sea.

Ride to the south

From Ao Nid Pier just turn left and lose yourself in these country roads. Head towards Banana Sunset Bar, Koh Mak Panorama Resort or Ta-Lay Time Resort. There are some nice viewpoints along the way.

For most tourists, the city of Trat is only a transit point for trips to the popular Koh Chang, Koh Mak and Koh Kut islands. But is it worth stopping for a little bit longer?

There aren’t any breathtaking sights or big resorts or party streets full of bars. It’s a normal town. Just that. So if you are looking for a local atmosphere, away from the crowds of tourists that you may encounter on the islands, make at least a few hours stop in Trat and you won’t regret it. 

Trat is also a paradise for fruit lovers as it is, next to Chanthaburi, one of the main fruit growing areas of Thailand.  Especially between March and August, local markets are full of inexpensive varieties of locally grown fruits.

Historic background

The history of Trat starts in the early 17th century during the reign of King Prasat Thong of the Ayutthaya Kingdom. It was known as Mueang Thung Yai and due to its strategic location, it had an important role in the development of the country’s stability. The town of Trat later become a community of Chinese merchants.

When Ayutthaya fell to the Burmese in 1767, Trat served as a checkpoint and buffer city and was responsible for providing provisions to King Taksin the Great before he moved his forces from Chanthaburi to Ayutthaya. King Taksin later on succeeded in getting rid of the Burmese invaders and freed the kingdom from foreign rule.

In the Rattanakosin era, during the 1893 Paknam crisis, French troops landed and occupied the western part of Chanthaburi province. In 1904, Siam was forced to surrender Trat to French Indochina to regain Chanthaburi. Three years later, however, finding that Trat with its almost entirely Thai population was hard to rule, the French returned Trat to Thailand on 23 March 1907, in exchange for larger areas along the Mekong river, which included Battambang, Siam Nakhon, and Sisophon, which all had a Khmer majority population.

During the French-Thai War of 1940–1941, the Vichy French navy sailed from Saigon to seize Trat. The unprepared Thai warships were caught by surprise. By the end of the 17 January 1941 Battle of Ko Chang, three Thai ships had been left sinking: the HTMS Chonburi, HTMS Songkhla, and HTMS Thonburi. French casualties were light with no ships lost. The Japanese government negotiated a truce, which ended the conflict without further fighting.

When the Vietnamese pushed the Khmer Rouge out of Cambodia in 1985, Pol Pot fled to Thailand and made his headquarters in a plantation villa near Trat. It was built for him by the Thai Army and nicknamed “Office 87”.

based on wikipedia.com

How to get to Trat?

By bus/minivan

The town can be easily reached by buses or minibuses from Bangkok. It’s more than 300 km and takes about 5 hours of travel time.

If you travel from Cambodia, Trat is about 90 km west of the border and one of the frequent buses that depart from Had Lek can take you there.

By plane

Trat has also its own small airport with flights from Bangkok operated by Bangkok Airways. However, the total cost of travel, including transfer to the town or pier to the islands is totally not worth it.

When to go?

The town itself can be visited at any time of the year but if you want to continue the visit to the islands,  the best would be the cool season, which runs from November to the end of February, and the hot season, which runs from March to April. The remaining part of the year is the rainy season, with unpredictable weather and a quiet atmosphere.

How long to stay?

It’s a small town so I would say that one full day or even half of it should be enough to visit all the interesting places and try local food.

Where to stay?

I spent one night in Mukda Guesthouse and it was perfectly located within walking distance of all sights. The room was very clean and comfy. I can totally recommend it!

Getting around

The best is to just walk. Alternatively, you may want to rent a bicycle or take a motorbike taxi. Grab transportation doesn’t work here, so you have to look around on the street to find a driver.

Places to visit

Wat Buppharam

It is thought to be the oldest temple in the city, built in the Ayutthaya period. Have a look at the praying hall, the chapel and the Vikhara temple. There is also a folk museum with Buddha images and potteries.

Residence Kampot

Located on Lak Muang Road in Talat Yai area in the center of Trat. The place was built during the reign of Chulalongkorn The Great (Rama V) when Trat was taken over by the French. It was a residence of a French bureaucrat authorized by the French government to govern Trat province and became a governor’s residence later. The Residence is a 3-storey semi-wooden house, topped with a hip roof.

Trat Museum

Housed in former City Hall on Santisook Road.  It is a large wooden building that was originally built during the French occupation.  Over the years it fell into disrepair and was unused before being rebuilt in the early 2000s.  The museum covers the history of the Trat area.  From prehistoric settlements to its early days as an important stopover for Chinese traders and further to the occupation by the French in the early 1900s and the World War Two Battle of Koh Chang. Most information is in both Thai & English. Entry to the museum is 30 Baht for foreign visitors.

City Pillar Shrine

When King Taksin came to gather troops here, he ordered to build this city pillar which was believed by the Chinese to protect the city from enemies and to bring peace to the people. . The City Pillar is the centre of the Thai-Chinese relationship. Apart from the city pillar, an ancient Khmer style Shiva Linga, found in Huai Raeng Sub-district, is on display.

Wat Pai Lom

Due to the fact that it is the residence of Than Chaokhun Phra Wimonmethachan Worayannurak, the father of education, Wat Phai Lom seems to be the most important temple in Trat. Visitors can visit the Buddhist Garden which is open to the public as a meditation practice place. 

Around Trat

Ban Nam Chiao Community

Ban Nam Chiao Community is an ecotourism community, which represents the coastal fishermen’s way of life. The villagers were originally Thai Buddhists. Later on, the mixture between two ethnicities was created since many of the Chinese merchants cruised in with goods to sell at the Ban Nam Chiao Pier, and finally settled in the area. In the reign of King Rama III, the Khmer Muslims (also known as Khaek Cham or Champa) immigrated from the war in their homeland to settle along the canal in Ban Nam Chiao. More of them kept coming in, so the two religions were allowed to get married, and they became like siblings and lived together in peace. Nowadays, most of the locals earn their living from fishery, rubber and orchard plantations, as well as trade. 

Ko Chang Naval Battle Memorial

On 17 January 1941, one of the most important battles in the history of the Royal Thai Navy took place. At that time, the French advantageously invaded the Thai territorial waters in the Ko Chang area with its 7 battleships whilst the Royal Thai Navy only had 3. Yet, they had the spirit to fight bravely even though the battle ended with the sacrifice of 36 marine lives and all 3 battleships which sank into the sea.

Namtok Saphan Hin

Beautiful waterfall, well off the beaten track. Free entry!

Koh Jum is a peaceful island located in Krabi Province, between Koh Lanta and Krabi town. The beaches are long and very often completely empty, accommodation prices are more than affordable and local people are relaxed. It’s not a place for parties though, so if you are after fun, your destination should be elsewhere. For those who enjoy a quiet atmosphere, the island is definitely worth visiting. Have a look at some more details!

How to get to Koh Jum?

Transfer to Koh Jum is possible by ferry, speed boat or longtail boat. In the normal seasons, ferries used to operate between Krabi Town and Koh Lanta, stopping at Ko Jum which is located just between them. During the pandemic and even when writing this post, (15/04/2022) such an option isn’t possible. There might be a speedboat doing that route once or twice a day but it’s better to ask at one of the travel agents and get the most up to date information. Certainly, it’s still possible to charter longtail boats but it will be quite an expensive option.

Another way to get from Krabi to Ko Jum is via Laem Kruat harbour, only 30 minutes from Krabi Airport. This is how I got there and it was really easy. Longtail boats leave for Koh Jum every hour. The price is 100 baht per person, plus some extra baht in case you want to take your motorbike to the island, which I did too. The only disadvantage was that the last return boat was at 3:30 PM, so if you are planning just one day trip, arrive at the pier as early as possible.

When to go?

The best time to visit Koh Jum is the same as for all other Andaman sea islands: from December to April. The weather is stable and rain is rare. If you are planning to go outside of the main season, check the boat schedule and availability of accommodation well in advance.

How long to stay?

It’s a small island so I would say that 1 full day should be enough to visit all the interesting places. However, if you want to soak more into the local community and just relax doing nothing on the beach, consider staying overnight. Certainly, you won’t regret it.

Where to stay?

Resorts are mainly located on the southern part of Koh Jum, along the Golden Pearl Beach / Long Beach. I won’t recommend any because I didn’t stay overnight on the island, but you shouldn’t have problems finding what you are looking for on booking.com.

Getting around the island

There are rather no other options than renting a motorbike or arranging a tuk-tuk service at the pier. A bicycle might be nice as well, as the terrain is mostly flat, but yeah, it’s still hot as hell.

Places to visit

Koh Jum Village

It is the biggest village on the island. There are some shops and restaurants, as well as motorbike rental points and tour agencies offering trips and transfer options. But the best thing to do is just stroll around and observe the local lifestyle.

Golden Pearl Beach and Long Beach

Long white sandy beach, crystal clear water under the blue sky. Does it sound idyllic to you? For more active ones, it’s nice to take a walk to the eastern tip of the island with Ko Pe Lat just in front of it.

Ao Si Beach and Magic Beach

Another good spot for swimming and sunbathing. Locals like to gather here so it’s a nice observation to see how life goes on. And it goes on slowly.

Coconut Beach

A good place to see the sunset, most of the time it’s perfectly empty. Unfortunately, trash is a big problem here.

Sunset Beach and Secret Beach

These two are more remote and more difficult to access as you need to follow dirt road which is also very bumpy. On the plus side, you will most likely be alone there. As of February 2022, the new road leading to a nearby resort was being built, so I guess in the future access will be easier.

Is it worth going to Koh Jum?

If you are looking for a calm and relaxing place, far away from the crowds, with not much more to do than just laying in your hammock, then it’s definitely a good place to be. Otherwise, Koh Lanta or Ao Nang, both with much more activities to do but also more tourists, would fit you better.