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Tanga is a coastal city in northeastern Tanzania, located along the Indian Ocean. It’s one of the oldest and historically significant urban centres in the country. It has long served as a port city and regional hub due to its strategic position near the border with Kenya and along important maritime routes.

Historical Background

Before colonial times, Tanga was part of the broader Swahili Coast culture, characterized by a network of trading cities that engaged in commerce across the Indian Ocean. These communities traded with Arabian, Persian, and Indian merchants, exchanging local products like ivory, spices, and slaves for goods such as textiles and beads. Tanga’s population was largely influenced by foreign cultures, which is still visible in the city’s architecture and traditions.

In the late 19th century, Tanga became one of the first towns in mainland Tanzania to fall under German colonial rule. The Germans designated Tanga as an administrative and commercial center, and they invested in infrastructure such as railways, roads, and port facilities. One of their most lasting contributions was the construction of the Usambara Railway, which connected Tanga to the interior of the country, facilitating the transport of agricultural products and other goods.

Tanga gained prominence as a key exporter of sisal, a plant used to make rope and other materials. The crop became the backbone of the local economy, and the region was known as the “Sisal Capital” of the world for a time.

Tanga is historically notable for being the site of the Battle of Tanga in 1914, one of the first major battles in the East African campaign of World War I. British forces attempted to capture the town from the Germans but were defeated in a well-documented and embarrassing retreat, sometimes referred to as the “Battle of the Bees” due to swarms of bees disrupting the fighting.

After World War I, Tanga came under British administration. While the British continued to support sisal cultivation, the city’s economic growth slowed compared to other Tanzanian centers like Dar es Salaam. Following Tanzania’s independence in 1961, Tanga remained an important regional center but gradually lost some of its economic dominance as focus shifted elsewhere.

Today, Tanga continues to serve as a port and supports trade in agricultural products, including sisal, tea, and coffee. The city is also a gateway to natural attractions such as the Amboni Caves, the Usambara Mountains, and nearby beaches.

How to get there?

By Air

Tanga has a small domestic airport that serves flights mainly from Dar es Salaam, Zanzibar, and sometimes Arusha or Moshi. These flights are usually short (about 1 hour from Dar es Salaam) and are offered by local airlines.

By Road

From Dar es Salaam

The drive takes around 6–8 hours, depending on traffic and road conditions. The route is mostly paved and passes through towns like Chalinze and Segera.

From Arusha or Moshi

Travelling from the north takes a similar amount of time (6–8 hours) and offers scenic views, especially near the Usambara Mountains.

From Mombasa (Kenya)

Tanga is quite close to the Kenyan border, so it’s also possible to travel from Mombasa via the Horohoro border post. However, make sure to check visa requirements and border crossing procedures.

By Bus

Several long-distance bus companies operate routes between Tanga and other major Tanzanian cities like Dar es Salaam, Arusha, Moshi, and Dodoma. Buses are usually affordable and run daily, though the journey can be long and tiring. Booking in advance is recommended for comfort and reliability.

By Train

Historically, Tanga was connected by the Usambara Railway, linking it to Moshi and the interior regions. While the train services aren’t as active or reliable today for passenger transport, there are occasional efforts to revive or maintain the railway for cargo and limited travel.

By Sea

Tanga has a functioning port, and while it’s mainly used for cargo, there are sometimes ferry services or private boats between Tanga and Zanzibar. This option is less common for travellers but might be available for those seeking a more adventurous route.

Tanga, Tanzania
One of historic buildings in Tanga

The best time to visit

Main Dry Season: June to October

This is considered the ideal time to visit. The weather is mostly sunny, with lower humidity and minimal rainfall. Temperatures are warm but comfortable, making it great for outdoor activities like visiting beaches, exploring the Amboni Caves, or hiking in the Usambara Mountains nearby.

Short Dry Period: January to February

This is another decent time to travel, especially if you want to avoid peak tourist season. Rain may occur occasionally, but it’s generally light and brief.

Fewer tourists visit Tanga compared to places like Zanzibar or Arusha, so even in the best season, it’s usually not crowded. Mosquitoes and the risk of malaria tend to increase during the rainy seasons, so visiting during the dry months can also reduce health risks.

Where to stay?

I stayed in the Nyinda Executive Hotel, located within walking distance of the city centre. The room was simple, but for one night, it was more than enough. They also have a restaurant.

What to see in Tanga?

All the interesting sights are located within walking distance, and you won’t need more than half a day to see them.

Start at St. Augustine Anglican Church, and then continue to St. Anthony’s Cathedral. It is the main Catholic church in the region and the seat of the local bishop. Built between 1893 and 1898 during the German colonial period, it stands as one of the oldest cathedrals in Tanzania.

Nearby, you can admire the building of Tanga City Hall as well as pay a visit to the URITHI Tanga Museum. Established in 1999 by the Tanga Heritage Centre (Urithi), a non-profit organization, the museum is housed in a restored German colonial-era building. Visitors can explore a diverse collection of artefacts, photographs, and exhibits that narrate the story of Tanga’s evolution from its early days to the present. The museum is small, but it’s worth a visit. Tickets are 10.000 TSH for foreigners, including the guide.

Tanga, Tanzania
The Tanga Library

Other historic buildings with nice architecture, which are the reminders of the past, are the Tanga Library, the Usambara Court House, the Old Tanga School and the Historic German Hospital. If you need a moment of break and rest, you can chill at Jamhuri Park, Uhuru Park, or Raskazone Beach. Inside Jamhuri Park, you will find the German Clock Tower, which was recently renovated. It was constructed originally in 1901.

Tanga, Tanzania
Uhuru Park
Tanga, Tanzania
The German Clock Tower

What to see out of town?

Amboni Caves

One of the most extensive limestone cave systems in East Africa. Formed around 150 million years ago during the Jurassic period, these caves are a natural wonder shaped by ancient marine processes when the region was submerged under the ocean.

What makes the Amboni Caves particularly interesting isn’t just their geological formation, but also their cultural and historical significance. Over the years, they’ve served different roles: from places of refuge and worship to tourist attractions. Some local communities, especially those of the Segeju and Digo ethnic groups, consider the caves sacred and associate them with spiritual practices.

Inside the caves, you’ll find stalactites and stalagmites in various shapes. Exploring the caves requires a guide. The system has about ten caves, but only one is open to tourists.

Overall, if you have ever been to any caves, I don’t think you will find Amboni particularly interesting. The visit is short, and of course, they will charge you a mzungu entrance fee, which is 10 USD. You can easily come here on a boda-boda from Tanga centre, and you should ask the driver to wait for you.

Amboni Caves, Tanga, Tanzania
Inside Amboni Caves
Amboni Caves, Tanga, Tanzania
Bats
Amboni Caves, Tanga, Tanzania
Inside Amboni Caves

Tongoni Ruins

The remains of a once-thriving Swahili settlement are located about 17 kilometres south of Tanga, along the Tanzanian coast. These ruins are a reminder of the region’s rich maritime and Islamic history, dating back to the 14th or 15th century.

At its peak, Tongoni was an important fishing and trading town, likely involved in regional and international trade across the Indian Ocean. The site includes crumbling coral stone structures, old houses, mosques, and a notable collection of tombs. Some of these graves are believed to belong to local rulers and Islamic scholars, suggesting the settlement held both political and religious significance.

What stands out about Tongoni is its connection to the early spread of Islam on the East African coast, as well as its role in the larger Swahili culture that blended African, Arab, and Persian influences. The ruins reflect a time when coastal towns like this were centres of learning, commerce, and seafaring.

The city of Iringa sits on a plateau at an elevation of over 1,500 meters, giving it a cool, temperate climate compared to much of the rest of Tanzania. It serves as a regional hub for trade, education, and administration.

The region is mainly agricultural, producing crops such as maize, sunflowers, beans, and vegetables. It’s also a gateway to Ruaha National Park, one of the largest and most biodiverse national parks in East Africa.

Historical Background

Iringa is part of the historical homeland of the Hehe people, an ethnic group known for their strong resistance to foreign intrusion. The Hehe were organized under a centralized leadership long before European colonization, with chiefs and warriors playing significant roles in local governance and defense.

During the German colonial period (late 19th to early 20th century), Iringa became notable for the Hehe resistance led by Chief Mkwawa. He is remembered for his defiant opposition to German forces. In 1891, Mkwawa’s forces achieved a famous victory over the Germans at Lugalo. Despite eventual defeat, Mkwawa became a symbol of African resistance.

The Germans later built a military post in Iringa after subduing the region. You can still see traces of this architecture in parts of the city.

After World War I, the British took over Tanganyika (now part of Tanzania) from the Germans. Iringa became a quieter administrative center but maintained its agricultural importance. When Tanzania gained independence in 1961, Iringa continued to develop, with investments in infrastructure, schools, and regional governance.

How to get there?

By Air

Iringa has a small airport called Iringa Airport (Nduli Airport), located about 15 km from the city centre. Regular domestic flights connect Iringa to Dar es Salaam and sometimes Dodoma or Mbeya, depending on the airline and season. The flight from Dar es Salaam takes about 1 to 1.5 hours.

By Road

From Dar es Salaam:

The drive from Dar to Iringa is about 500–550 km, which takes 8 to 10 hours, depending on traffic and road conditions. The route follows the A7 highway, which is paved and generally in decent condition. It passes through Morogoro and Mikumi National Park, offering a chance to see wildlife right from the road.

From Dodoma:

From the capital Dodoma, Iringa is about 270 km south, roughly a 4 to 5-hour drive. The road is paved and goes through some hilly, scenic areas.

From Mbeya:

Iringa is northeast of Mbeya, and the road journey is about 330 km, taking 5 to 6 hours.

Buses and Coaches:

Several long-distance buses run daily between Iringa and major cities like Dar, Dodoma, Mbeya and Arusha. These are usually comfortable coach-style buses and are a popular, budget-friendly option.

By Train

Iringa is not directly on the major railway lines, but you can get close by rail. Take a train to Makambako (on the TAZARA railway line connecting Dar es Salaam to Zambia). From Makambako, it’s about 110 km to Iringa by road.

Iringa, Tanzania
Hindu Temple

The best time to visit

The best time to visit Iringa is during the dry season, which typically runs from June to October. Iringa’s highland location means it’s already cooler than much of Tanzania, but during the dry months, the weather is especially pleasant: sunny days with crisp mornings and evenings. You’re unlikely to face travel disruptions due to rain. Roads are more reliable, and outdoor activities are more enjoyable.

If you’re planning to visit Ruaha National Park (about 2 hours from Iringa), this is prime time. Animals are easier to spot as they gather around shrinking water sources. Vegetation is thinner, improving visibility.

Other Times of Year:

November to February is still decent, but can be hot in lower areas, and some early rains might begin.

March to May is the rainy season. Travel is harder, roads can get muddy or flooded, and some remote areas might be less accessible. However, the landscape is green and lush, so great for photography if you don’t mind the occasional downpour.

Where to stay?

I stayed in the Kalenga West Park & Tours Motel, where I arrived and checked in without a reservation. The room was quite ugly, but it cost 25.000 TZS per night and a quite decent breakfast was included. It is well located in the city centre.

What to see in Iringa?

I did a morning walk in town, visiting Ismaili Mosque, Maji Maji Monument, Uhuru Park, Boma Museum and the Clock Tower. All the places are located very close to each other.

In the second half of the day, I organized a boda boda rider to visit Gangilonga Rock and Igeleke Rock Art.

Boma Museum

The building itself dates back to 1914, originally constructed during German colonial rule. It was first used as a military hospital and later transitioned into an administrative hub during the British colonial period. After Tanzania gained independence in 1961, the structure continued to serve various government roles before being transformed into a museum in recent years.

Architecturally, the Boma blends several influences. Its design reflects a mix of German colonial style with Swahili and local elements, including unique stone walls, arches, and traditional construction techniques. The building has undergone careful restoration, preserving many of its original features while adapting it for public use.

Today, the museum functions as both a cultural and educational space. Its exhibits showcase the traditions, tools, and lifestyles of communities in the southern highlands, including the Hehe people. Visitors can explore displays of local crafts, traditional clothing, historical artefacts, and information on the colonial and post-independence eras.

Boma Museum, Iringa, Tanzania
Boma Museum

Ismaili Mosque

Constructed in the early 1930s, this mosque was the result of the dedication and generosity of the local Ismaili community, particularly the Hamir family. Mohamed Hamir Pradhan, a prominent community member, played a pivotal role in its establishment. Demonstrating immense commitment, he personally contributed to the construction efforts, often working late into the night by kerosene lantern alongside his wife, Bachibai. Their unwavering dedication culminated in the mosque’s completion in 1933.

The mosque’s architecture is a harmonious blend of European and local influences. Its most striking feature is the prominent clock tower, which not only serves a functional purpose but also adds a unique aesthetic appeal. The building’s design incorporates elements reminiscent of German colonial architecture, evident in its arcaded galleries and grand halls, yet it seamlessly integrates traditional Swahili motifs, reflecting the region’s diverse cultural influences.

Beyond its architectural significance, the mosque has been a cornerstone for the Ismaili community in Iringa. In 1936, during the Golden Jubilee celebrations of Imam Sultan Mahomed Shah, the mosque was formally presented as a gift to the Imam, symbolizing the community’s devotion and unity.

Iringa, Tanzania
Ismaili Mosque

Maji Maji Monument

The Maji Maji Monument commemorates the courage and resilience of those who participated in the Maji Maji Rebellion, a widespread resistance movement against German colonial forces from 1905 to 1907.

Located near the town’s police station, this rugged stone obelisk serves as a solemn reminder of the sacrifices made by countless individuals who fought for their freedom. The rebellion was sparked by oppressive colonial policies, including forced labour and taxation, which led various ethnic groups to unite in defiance. The term “Maji Maji” translates to “water water” in Swahili, referencing the belief that sacred water could protect warriors from bullets, a testament to the spiritual dimensions of the resistance.

While the rebellion was ultimately suppressed, resulting in significant loss of life, its legacy endures as a symbol of unity and determination.

Clock Tower

Originally erected in 1927, the tower replaced a statue of German officer Hermann von Wissmann, which had been installed in 1911. This transition marked a shift from colonial symbolism to a representation of the community’s evolving identity. 

A distinctive feature atop the tower is the “Uhuru Torch,” a national emblem of Tanzania symbolizing freedom and enlightenment. First lit on Mount Kilimanjaro in 1961 to commemorate the country’s independence, the torch signifies the nation’s aspirations and unity. 

Uhuru Park

A small green area in town where you can relax in the shade.

Gangilonga Rock

The short scramble to the top was well worth the effort, and I was accompanied by the receptionist guy, but once we reached the town, he left me alone. The landscape around Iringa is full of rocks, a bit similar to Mwanza!

Gangilonga Rock means “talking stone” in the Hehe language. Historically, the rock served as a gathering spot for Hehe elders and leaders, including the renowned Chief Mkwawa. It was here that crucial decisions were made, and legends tell of the rock’s ability to “speak,” possibly inspired by the echoes produced when voices bounce off its surfaces.

iringa, Tanzania
The view from Gangilonga Rock

Igeleke Rock Art

This archaeological site features ancient rock paintings that offer insights into the lives and beliefs of early human communities in the region. The artwork, primarily rendered in red ochre, adorns the surfaces of granite outcrops and shelters. These paintings depict a variety of subjects, including human figures and animals, reflecting the daily experiences and spiritual practices of the artists. The style and motifs bear similarities to other rock art traditions found across Central and Southern Africa, suggesting a shared cultural heritage.

The site is locked, so I recommend contacting the local guide before arriving to make sure that someone will be there to open the gate. You can text him on WhatsApp: +255 766 662 777. He was waiting for me with all his kids, and if I remember correctly, it was 4 of them! Then he showed me around and provided a short explanation of the meanings of rock art. There is no official entry price, I just tipped him 10.000 TZS.

Rock art in Iringa, Tanzania
Local guide and his family with rock art in the background

What to see out of town?

Mkwawa Museum

The Mkwawa Museum is located in the village of Kalenga, approximately 10 kilometres away from Iringa. I got there by moto taxi and it cost me 15.000 TZS after negotiations. This museum is dedicated to preserving the legacy of Chief Mkwawa, a prominent leader of the Hehe people who fiercely resisted German colonial forces in the late 19th century.

The museum houses the skull of Chief Mkwawa, which was taken to Germany after his death and returned in 1954. Visitors can also view Mkwawa’s weapons, clothing, and other personal items that offer insight into his life and leadership.

Together with the entrance ticket (10 USD), you get a guide who tells you more about the history of the place. Very useful as there are no information boards, and without it, you could have done it in 5 minutes.

Mkwawa Museum, Iringa, Tanzania
Mkwawa Museum

Isimila Stone Age Site

I found a boda boda rider near the Clock Tower in Iringa, and he took me to the Isimila Stone Age Site. The ride was about half an hour. Once we arrived, I paid the entrance fee and got a local guide who explained to me the details of the walk and the historical background of the place. The boda rider joined as well, and I was pretty sure it was his first time here, as he was taking pictures of literally everything. His nickname was Maasai 🙂

The Isimila Stone Age Site is known for its well-preserved evidence of early human activity during the later part of the Acheulean period, which is associated with Homo erectus or early Homo sapiens.

What makes Isimila especially significant is the large number of stone tools found there, particularly hand axes, cleavers, scrapers, and other implements typical of early human technology. These tools were made from local quartzite and were used for tasks like cutting meat, processing plants, or shaping other tools.

In addition to the tools, the site has exposed ancient sediments and fossil-bearing layers that have helped archaeologists study the environment and lifestyle of early humans in East Africa, a region often called the “cradle of humanity.” Interestingly, while there are many artefacts, no human remains have been found at Isimila, which has led to various interpretations about how the site was used, possibly as a temporary campsite or a place for tool production.

Beyond its scientific value, the site is also

We did a loop walk, admiring the visually striking landscape, where natural erosion created tall sandstone pillars that add a dramatic backdrop to the archaeological landscape. At the end, we visited a small museum.

Iringa, Tanzania
Isimila Stone Age Site
Iringa, Tanzania
Isimila Stone Age Site

Ruaha National Park

Ruaha National Park is one of Tanzania’s largest and most spectacular protected areas, about a 2-hour drive from Iringa. It’s less known than the northern parks like Serengeti or Ngorongoro, but it’s a hidden gem, rich in wildlife, dramatic landscapes, and fewer crowds.

The landscape is rugged and varied: a mix of savannahs, rocky hills, dry riverbeds, and baobab forests. This diversity supports a wide range of animals and ecosystems.

Ruaha is especially known for its large elephant population, one of the biggest concentrations in East Africa. There are also lions, leopards, cheetahs, African wild dogs, buffaloes, giraffes, zebras and plenty of bird species.

The price of a 1-day private safari is about 250 – 300 USD. In the end, I had to give it up, as in March, I couldn’t find any other tourists willing to join and share the costs.

Morogoro is located at the base of the Uluguru Mountains. It’s known primarily as an agricultural and administrative centre, with a long-standing role in training and education, particularly through institutions like Sokoine University of Agriculture.

Historically, Morogoro developed as a colonial settlement during German East Africa, and later under British rule. Its strategic position made it a useful location for missions, military logistics, and development projects during the post-independence period. The city has grown steadily but retains a slower pace than places like Dar es Salaam.

Its cultural makeup is diverse, shaped by both indigenous groups and long-term Swahili and Arab influence, with signs of colonial infrastructure still visible.

How to get there?

By Train

Tanzania’s railway line passes through Morogoro. The standard gauge railway (SGR) is a comfortable and very fast way of travelling (2 hours).

You can book your tickets HERE

By Air

There’s no major commercial airport in Morogoro itself, so travellers usually fly into Julius Nyerere International Airport in Dar es Salaam and continue by road.

By Road

Buses and private cars travel the roughly 190-kilometre route, typically taking 4 to 5 hours depending on traffic and road conditions. Several intercity bus services run daily, offering various levels of comfort.

Morogoro, Tanzania
Hiking in the mountains
Morogoro, Tanzania
Hiking in the mountains

The best time to visit

The best time to visit Morogoro is during the dry seasons, which fall between June and October or late December and February. These months generally offer more stable weather, making travel and outdoor activities, like hiking in the Uluguru Mountains or visiting nearby nature reserves, much easier and more pleasant.

In contrast, the rainy seasons (typically March to May and again around November) can bring heavy downpours that make some roads difficult to navigate and obscure mountain views. If you’re planning on trekking or travelling through rural areas, the dry months are a safer bet.

Where to stay?

I stayed in the White House Hotel, where I arrived and checked in without a reservation. The room was okayish, but it had AC and a mosquito net, so the two most important things in any accommodation in Tanzania. It is well located in the city centre and they have a good restaurant on site..

Another great place is Selah by Ohr, which you can find on Airbnb. They are located 1.6km from Choma waterfalls along a hiking trail and are neighbours with the Morning Side. If you need to disconnect and get away from it all, it’s an excellent choice!

My experience

There is not too much to see in the town itself, and the reason you should visit Morogoro is definitely the Uluguru Mountains. If you have some time to kill, you can have a look at Soko Kuu la Kingalu, which is a local market where you can find almost everything you need.

Follow Madakara Road to reach the peaceful St. Patrick’s Catholic Church. A bit further away, along Boma Road, is Emmanuel Church, from where it’s only a short walk to Morogoro Commonwealth Cemetery.

Morogoro
Soko Kuu la Kingalu
Morogoro
Morogoro Commonwealth Cemetery

Choma Waterfalls

I started the hike at the “Rock Garden”, but the route to the waterfall wasn’t as interesting as I thought. Just walking on the wide dirt road, with rather sleepy villages on the way. You could take a moto taxi (boda-boda) to save some time and energy.

Upon arrival at the waterfall, I had to pay the entrance fee of 10.000 TZS. First, I made a stop at the higher part of the falls, and then I crossed to the other side and went down to see the lower part. Overall, a nice place, but not anything super spectacular.

There is another narrow path to the left of the main dirt road leading to another section of the falls. It was totally untouristy and just used by local kids to play. Very nice to see!

Morogoro, Tanzania
Choma Waterfalls

Morning Side

The building is the remnant of a German historical settlement. Near it are great spots for camping with a view of Morogoro.

You can hike to it from either Choma Waterfalls or Rovuma Village, or take a boda-boda from Morogoro, but be prepared for a bumpy ride. If you are walking from Choma Waterfalls, don’t forget to stop by the picturesque German Church.

Morning Side, Morogoro
Morning Side
Morning Side, Morogoro
The view of Morogoro from the Morning Side
Morogoro, Tanzania
German Church en route to the Morning Side from Choma Waterfalls

Lupanga Peak

Lupanga Peak is another prominent summit in the Uluguru Mountains, slightly lower than Bondwa but still notable, reaching about 2,150 meters. It’s closer to Morogoro town and often considered one of the more accessible high points in the range.

The hike to Lupanga is steep and can be physically demanding, especially in humid conditions, but it’s manageable for reasonably fit hikers. The route passes through lush rainforest, and because of the area’s biodiversity, it’s common to encounter rare plant species and hear a variety of birds. However, the summit is overgrown and the views are limited.

I found a guide online, and he was a very nice guy. His name is Sixberth, and he is the owner of Kaizulu Tours and Safaris, but also does some guided hikes for other companies if he doesn’t have his own clients. You can contact him on WhatsApp: +255 756 648 950.

Sixberth picked me up in the morning from the hotel, and we jumped on a moto taxi (boda-boda) to buy some snacks and then head to the trailhead.

The path was consistently climbing up, and first we were talking through the scenic farms with great views of Morogoro. Then, we reached the forest and continued pushing higher and higher. Unfortunately, it started to rain and some sections of the trail were incredibly steep and slippery, so I had to use to hands to hold on to the tree roots.

Lupanga Peak, Morogoro
My guide on top of Lupanga
Lupanga Peak, Morogoro
Going down

If I hadn’t been with Sixberth, I would probably have given up, as the weather conditions were really harsh. The closer to the summit, the steeper it was, and the wet ground and stones were not helping at all. But we made it! We reached the summit! There were no views because of the clouds and trees, but I felt satisfaction anyway. It was really great that I packed a dry T-shirt to change into!

After break for snacks, we started going down and damn, it was slippery! Luckily, my Scarpa trekking shoes had a nice grip. The clouds cleared a bit, so we were able to see some mountain panoramas. By the time we came down, it was perfectly sunny.

Bundwa Peak

Bondwa Peak is one of the highest points in the Uluguru Mountains, standing at around 2,170 meters above sea level and offering sweeping views over the Morogoro valley and surrounding landscapes.

The peak is accessible through a hiking route that passes through dense forest, farmlands, and local villages, especially if you decide to climb from the city centre. It’s a moderately challenging climb, often done as a full-day hike. You can cut the distance and time by getting to Morning Side on a motorbike taxi and starting from there, and this was exactly what I did.

A boda-boda guy made sure that we had a wild, bumpy, and extremely uncomfortable ride. Honestly, it would be much better and easier to include Bondwa Peak in a full-day hike, including Choma Waterfalls. However, I did the falls the day before with a companion who wasn’t eager to continue to the peak 🙂

Bundwa Peak, Morogoro
Entering the forest on the Bondwa Trail
Bundwa Peak, Morogoro
The view from Bundwa Peak

Upon arrival, I was once again negatively surprised by Tanzanian creativity. Two guys were hanging around Morning Side, and they approached me, claiming that this is a protected area and I need to pay an entrance fee. I asked them to show me an official document stating this fact, and they indeed showed me one, but the problem was that it was for completely different regions of the country. I walked away and started hiking, completely ignoring their voices. Nice try, boys.

At first, the rider wanted to walk with me all the way to the Bondwa Peak, but I saw he was wearing flip-flops, so I got seriously sceptical about it. I was right, as even though he followed me, he soon stayed behind and finally gave up. The path was a bit overgrown at first, but luckily I had Mapy.CZ app on the phone, so I was able to navigate without issues. If this is not your first hike, you don’t need a guide.

The distance is about 4.3 kilometres, and the return trip should take 3-4 hours. The time on the app is well overestimated.

I was walking really fast and without breaks, as there were plenty of flies buzzing around my head. There was a gate, and for a short moment, I was afraid that I had walked up only to see it closed. Luckily, it wasn’t the case. There was a guy taking care of the antenna station, but surprisingly, he didn’t even ask for a tip.

After a short rest, I hiked back, and my driver was very surprised that I was so quick. The ride down was a bit better, but still very bumpy!

Hululu Waterfalls

The journey to Hululu Waterfall begins with a drive to Vinile village, followed by a hike through lush forests. If you don’t have your vehicle, then it gets trickier as you need to reach Kibaoni Village by dala-dala and then either for about three hours or take a motorbike taxi. Prices of private transfers are rather steep!

Kinole

There are waterfalls, but the place is rather off the tourist map. Upon arrival in the village, you will need to ask for a guide to take you there as the trail isn’t marked on any maps. The village can be reached by dala-dala from Morogoro.

Mikumi National Park

Mikumi National Park is a large wildlife reserve in southern Tanzania, known for its rich variety of animals and accessible location. It is often compared to the Serengeti because of its wide, open grasslands. Visitors can expect to see elephants, lions, zebras, giraffes, hippos, and even rare animals like African wild dogs. Because it’s not as crowded as some other parks, Mikumi offers a quieter, more relaxed safari experience. It’s especially popular for short trips from Dar es Salaam since it’s only a few hours away by road.

The entrance to the park is about 100 km from Morogoro (a 2-hour drive), and you can find several safari operators in the town.

Read more about my visit to the national park HERE.

Mikumi National Park, Tanzania
Mikumi National Park

Dodoma is the capital city of Tanzania, located in the central part of the country. It lies on a plateau at an elevation of around 1,100 meters and serves as a key administrative and political centre.

Historically, Dodoma was a modest market town inhabited mostly by the Gogo people, one of the many ethnic groups in Tanzania. It gained strategic importance in the early 20th century during German colonial rule when it was connected to the Central Railway line, linking it to Dar es Salaam and the country’s interior. After the First World War, when the British took over the territory under a League of Nations mandate, Dodoma continued to develop slowly.

The major turning point in Dodoma’s history came in 1973, when the Tanzanian government announced plans to move the capital from the coastal city of Dar es Salaam to Dodoma. This decision was made to encourage more balanced regional development and to position the capital more centrally within the country. The idea was inspired by a desire for national unity and better accessibility, similar to the motivations behind other planned capital relocations around the world.

Dodoma, Tanzania
A mosque in Dodoma

Although the capital was officially designated as Dodoma, the actual relocation process took decades, with many government functions remaining in Dar es Salaam for years. Over time, infrastructure in Dodoma improved, and by the 2010s, a more concerted effort was made to complete the move. Today, Dodoma is home to Tanzania’s Parliament and many government ministries.

Culturally, Dodoma reflects the traditions and lifestyle of central Tanzania, particularly those of the Gogo people, who are known for their pastoralist heritage, music, and oral storytelling. The city’s identity is shaped by rural values and a strong sense of community, in contrast to the more cosmopolitan and commercial culture of Dar es Salaam. Traditional foods, dances, and festivals rooted in agricultural cycles and social rites are still important in daily life.

How to get there?

By Road

Dodoma is well connected by highway to major cities like Dar es Salaam, Arusha, and Mwanza. From Dar es Salaam, it’s about a 7-9 hour drive depending on traffic and road conditions. Long-distance buses operate daily between Dodoma and other urban centres, making road travel one of the most common ways to get there.

By Rail

Tanzania’s central railway line passes through Dodoma. The standard gauge railway (SGR) is a comfortable and very fast way of travelling (3-4 hours). Traditional trains still operate, but they can be slower and less predictable in terms of schedule.

You can book your tickets HERE

Dodoma, Tanzania
Modern station of SGR trains

By Air

Dodoma has a regional airport that serves domestic flights. You can catch flights from Dar es Salaam, Zanzibar, or other regional cities, typically with small carriers.

By Private Vehicle

Travelling by private car gives more flexibility. The roads leading to Dodoma have improved in recent years, especially the main arterial highways.

The best time to visit

The best time to travel to Dodoma is during the dry season, which generally runs from June to October. During these months, the weather is sunny, relatively cool, and stable, so ideal for road travel, sightseeing, and outdoor activities.

Dodoma has a semi-arid climate, so even in the dry season, it’s not as humid as coastal regions like Dar es Salaam. Temperatures are warm during the day but can be cooler in the evenings, especially in July and August.

The wet season, from November to around April, can bring heavy but short-lived rains, which may affect road conditions, especially in rural areas. However, the rains are usually not constant throughout the day, and some travellers prefer this period for the green scenery and fewer crowds.

Where to stay?

I stayed in the Kitemba Hotel, where I arrived and checked in without a reservation. The room was spacious and with AC. Slightly overpriced at 50.000 TZS per night, but prices are higher in Dodoma in general. It is perfectly located in the city centre.

My experience

I arrived by train from Morogoro and took a tuk-tuk to the hotel. After dropping my backpack, I started sightseeing by heading to the Gadaffi Mosque. It is one of the largest mosques in Tanzania, and its name is related to the fact that it was funded by Libya during Muammar Gaddafi’s rule.

Dodoma, Tanzania
Gadaffi Mosque

Next, I took a tuk-tuk to Bunge (Parliament House). This is the centrepiece of Dodoma’s political life, where the National Assembly meets. It’s a prominent structure and symbol of Tanzanian democracy. Unfortunately, sightseeing inside is rarely possible, so I just walked around and saw the buildings from the street.

Back in the city centre, I explored the temples located near the Dodoma Roundabout: the Anglican Cathedral, the Lutheran Cathedral, and the Ismaili Mosque. They all reflect the city’s religious diversity alongside churches and mosques of various denominations.

Dodoma, Tanzania
Dodoma Roundabout
Dodoma, Tanzania
Anglican Cathedral
Dodoma, Tanzania
Dodoma Cathedral

A bit further away, following Amani Road, is the Dodoma Cathedral (St. Paul of the Cross). The principal Roman Catholic cathedral serves as the seat of the Archdiocese of Dodoma. Established in 1937, it has been central to the region’s Catholic community and was elevated to archdiocesan status in 2014.

From there, I walked to see the old train station, which is worth a quick look.

Dodoma, Tanzania
The old train station

To the north of the Dodoma Roundabout, you can find Nyerere Square. Named after Julius Nyerere, Tanzania’s founding president, this public square serves as a commemorative space and a gathering spot for events and parades.

Soko Kuu is the main market in Dodoma where you can find a variety of products: meat, vegetables, fruits, spices and many more. It’s a bustling space, so even if you don’t plan to buy anything, allow yourself to get lost in narrow alleys and look around.

Dodoma, Tanzania
Nyerere Square

Udzungwa National Park is a protected area in south-central Tanzania. It lies in the Eastern Arc Mountains, a chain of ancient forested mountains stretching across Tanzania and Kenya. The park’s elevation ranges from about 250 meters to over 2,500 meters above sea level, creating a range of ecosystems from lowland tropical forests to montane forests. Its climate is humid and tropical, with heavy rains typically falling from March to May and lighter rains from November to December.

The park covers over 1,900 square kilometres. The plant life is extremely diverse, with over 2,500 plant species recorded, many of which are endemic. This botanical richness is due to the park’s isolation and varied altitudes, allowing unique species to evolve. You’ll find everything from giant trees and dense ferns to delicate orchids and medicinal plants used by local communities.

One of its key features is its ecological diversity — it’s home to rare primates, such as the Sanje mangabey and the Udzungwa red colobus, which are found nowhere else in the world. Visitors often hike to waterfalls, including the scenic Sanje Falls, and explore various trails that range from easy walks to more demanding treks into the highlands.

Unlike many other parks in Tanzania, Udzungwa doesn’t have large numbers of traditional safari animals like lions or elephants, but it’s a hotspot for birdwatching, plant diversity, and scientific research. Its remote, uncommercialized nature makes it appealing for those seeking an off-the-beaten-path wilderness experience.

How to get there?

By Road:

The most direct route is by car or bus, travelling southwest from Dar es Salaam to the town of Mikumi, and then on to the village of Mang’ula, which is the main gateway to the park. The total drive takes about 6 to 8 hours, depending on road conditions and traffic. The roads are mostly paved.

Once the bus drops you off in Mikumi, you can either change to a minibus or opt for a shared tuk-tuk. Tuk-tuk ride takes about 1.5 hours, but it is surprisingly cheap (10.000 TZS). You may need to squeeze as other passengers are picked up on the way.

By Train:

A more adventurous and scenic option is to take the TAZARA (Tanzania-Zambia Railway) line from Dar es Salaam to Mang’ula Station. This line passes through the heart of the countryside and offers views of rural villages, wildlife, and forested landscapes. Trains run a few times a week, and while the journey is longer than by car (often 10+ hours), it offers a unique, slow-travel experience.

By Air:

There’s no airport directly serving Udzungwa, but you can fly into Mikumi Airstrip (near Mikumi National Park) from Dar es Salaam or other domestic locations, then take a short drive to Udzungwa. This is faster but more expensive and requires pre-arranged charter flights or local air services.

Final Access:

Once in a hotel in Mang’ula, you can easily find a boda-boda (motorbike) rider to take you to the park entrance.

Udzungwa Mountains, Tanzania
The entrance to the National Park

The best time to visit

The best time to visit Udzungwa National Park is during the dry season, which runs from June to October. During these months, the trails are more accessible, hiking is easier, and visibility is generally better for spotting wildlife like primates and birds.

The rainy seasons, particularly from March to May, can make the trails slippery and some areas difficult to access, especially the more remote or elevated parts of the park. That said, the forest is lush and vibrant during the rains, which appeals to travellers interested in plant life, waterfalls at full flow, and fewer crowds. I visited the park at the beginning of March, and it was still very dry, and the rains were yet to come.

The short rains from November to December can still be a decent time to go if you’re prepared for occasional showers and want to avoid peak season.

Where to stay?

I can recommend Mwanga Royal Motel in Mangula Town. I found on Google Maps the day before and got a room with AC without upon arrival. The room was very small, but come on, the real AC isn’t that common in Tanzania, especially for 25.000 TZS per night!

They also have a restaurant and sell drinks, so it is really a very convenient place. There were plenty of motorbike taxis on the street in front, and I could get to the national park headquarters in less than 10 minutes.

How much does it cost?

Park Entry Fees

Adults (Non-Tanzanians): $30 per person per day, plus 18% VAT, totalling approximately $35.40. 

Children (5–15 years): $5 per day, plus 18% VAT.

Tanzanian Citizens: Significantly lower rates apply.

These fees grant access to the park for 24 hours.

Guided Hiking Costs

All hikes in Udzungwa require a licensed guide and sometimes an armed ranger. They charge you about 20 USD each per day.

Long Distance Hikes:

If you decide to climb Mwanihana Peak, the hike takes 2-3 days and requires taking a guide, an armed ranger, porters, camping equipment, food and water. The cost increases significantly, and you should expect to pay between 400 USD – 500 USD. If you go with a group, some costs can be shared.

Hiking to Luhombero Peak, the highest point in Udzungwa Mountains National Park, spans 5 to 6 days and costs between 800 USD – 1200 USD per person.

My experience

Day 1: Sanje Waterfalls, Prince Bernard Waterfall

The first day of the hiking adventure in Udzungwa. After a quick breakfast at my hotel, I took a boda-boda and arrived at the national park headquarters. I was immediately approached by the guide, and after discussing options in front of the big map, we agreed to go to Sanje Waterfall. I paid all the required fees and then we walked to the main road to catch a tuk-tuk to the trailhead.

The hike wasn’t too difficult, but the path was going up and down, and it was humid, so I was sweating a lot. Luckily, I had a big bottle of water with me as well as some snacks. There were almost no other tourists in the park, besides two other women doing the same route.

Udzungwa Mountains, Tanzania
The viewpoint

First, we approached the bottom of the waterfall and took some photos on the scenic bridge. From there, we continued climbing up to the middle section and the viewpoint to the plains and sugar cane plantations. Finally, we reached the end of the trail and enjoyed a break with snacks in front of a beautiful waterfall.

We came back taking a bit different way, which was nice as the hike turned out to be a loop. Near the main road, we met local vendors selling souvenirs and drinks, so I bought two coconuts. The price had to be negotiated because the initial one was out of space. Sometimes I wonder where Tanzanians get this enthusiasm from.

Udzungwa Mountains, Tanzania
The view of Sanje Waterfalls
Udzungwa Mountains, Tanzania
The last waterfall on the trail

The whole hike took us about 3-4 hours, and it was still quite early, so I asked the guide if there were other attractions that we could check out. We took a tuk tuk again, which dropped us near the entrance to the trail leading to Mwanihana Peak. Getting to the top takes a minimum of 2 days, but there is another waterfall about 15 15-minute walk from the main road, so we decided to check it out. Unfortunately, it was very average. I hope one day I will be able to climb Mwanihana, although the price for a solo hiker is discouraging. Enjoying nature in Tanzania isn’t cheap!

We returned the same way and came back to the headquarters, where we did one more short hike to see Prince Bernard Waterfall. There was barely any water flowing, but at least we were able to see a deer and some monkeys.

Overall, it was an enjoyable day, but at that time of the year (beginning of March), the water level in the waterfalls was low. I discussed the details about the next day with my guide, and we decided to make a loop hike to the Hidden Valley.

Day 2: Hidden Valley

This time we I had to take with me not only a guide, but an armed ranger as the trail goes deeper in the forest, and there was a risk of encountering elephants. He was carrying a heavy gun but didn’t even take any water or snacks with him. The trail was in the forest the whole way. First, we were going up, occasionally through very overgrown bush. It seemed that not many tourists take that route, but of course I didn’t mind. There was a nice waterfall nearby, so we made a short detour to reach it and rest at its base.

Udzungwa Mountains, Tanzania
The waterfall in Hidden Valley

Then, we walked around the mountain and started descending back to the main road. Sometimes it was really steep!

It was a good hike, which took us about 4-5 hours, and I appreciated the feeling of being deeper in the forest, but there weren’t any spectacular panoramas, and we didn’t encounter any wildlife. The ranger was there just in case, but for most of the time, he was lagging, and we couldn’t even see him behind. However, the guide was very useful, as the trail is not marked on any offline maps, and there were sections where it was totally overgrown.

Other available hikes

Spotting Sanje Mangabeys

Sanje mangabeys are a rare and unique species of monkey found only in the Udzungwa Mountains. They’re medium-sized primates with shaggy brown-gray fur, expressive faces, and long tails that help them balance as they move through the trees.

What makes them particularly interesting is their behaviour and limited range. They live in social groups and spend time both in the trees and on the ground, which is unusual for monkeys in dense rainforest environments. They’re intelligent and often communicate with a wide range of vocalizations, facial expressions, and body language. Because they’re only found in a small area, and their forest habitat is shrinking due to human activity, Sanje mangabeys are considered endangered.

Seeing them in the wild is a special experience. Inform the national park headquarters that you are interested in spotting them one day before your visit. The rangers will do their best to locate the primates and take you on a hike to see them.

Mwanihana Peak

The trail to Mwanihana Peak climbs up to 2,150 meters, offering spectacular views over the Kilombero Valley and into the dense forest below. It’s remote and quiet. Most hikers take about 3 days and 2 nights to complete the trek, but it’s also doable in 2 days and 1 night. You start near Mang’ula village, where the park headquarters help organize guides and permits. The first day eases you into the forest, so expect to cross wooden bridges, follow streams, and sleep under the canopy at a remote campsite. Day two is the real climb, where you’ll summit Mwanihana and feel like you’re standing above the clouds. Then you descend on day three, usually tired, muddy, and grinning.

You might spot rare monkeys like the red colobus or Sanje mangabey, as well as hornbills, turacos, and colourful butterflies. The forest shifts as you climb: miombo woodlands give way to thick rainforest, which thins out into cool highland bamboo zones.

Luhombero Peak

At 2,579 meters, Luhombero is the highest point in Udzungwa, but it remains one of the least hiked. It’s rugged, remote, and takes 5 to 6 days of serious trekking to reach. Expect steep climbs, slippery roots, and the occasional river crossing. Your nights are spent camping deep in the forest, often at simple sites near streams or clearings.

Each day brings a new kind of terrain: lowland forests buzzing with insects and birds, towering bamboo groves, misty highlands, and eventually wind-swept ridges with views stretching across southern Tanzania.

This trek is demanding. You’ll need to be reasonably fit and mentally prepared for long days, basic camps, and no phone signal. A licensed guide is required, and most people also hike with porters and a cook. Some arrange everything through local tour companies, while others coordinate directly with park authorities.

Mikumi National Park is a large wildlife reserve in southern Tanzania, known for its rich variety of animals and accessible location. It is often compared to the Serengeti because of its wide, open grasslands. Visitors can expect to see elephants, lions, zebras, giraffes, hippos, and even rare animals like African wild dogs. Because it’s not as crowded as some other parks, Mikumi offers a quieter, more relaxed safari experience. It’s especially popular for short trips from Dar es Salaam since it’s only a few hours away by road.

It covers over 3,000 square kilometres and is the fourth-largest national park in Tanzania. It’s bordered by the Uluguru Mountains to the north and connects with the vast Nyerere National Park (formerly part of the Selous Game Reserve) to the south, which allows wildlife to move freely between the two areas.

The heart of the park is the Mkata floodplain, a wide, flat area where animals gather, especially during the dry season. This makes wildlife spotting relatively easy. Lions in Mikumi are known to lounge in the shade of trees or even climb them occasionally, while large herds of buffalo and antelope can often be seen grazing. Bird lovers can enjoy spotting over 400 species, including colourful rollers, hornbills, and fish eagles.

Roads inside the park are fairly good compared to more remote reserves, so it’s well-suited for a self-drive or guided day trip. Accommodations range from basic campsites to comfortable lodges, some even located inside the park itself.

How to get there?

You can reach Mikumi National Park fairly easily, especially from Dar es Salaam. The most common way to get there is by road. It’s about a 5-hour drive along a paved highway that cuts right through the park. This makes the journey scenic, with the chance to spot animals even before you officially enter the park area. Many visitors either drive themselves, hire a private car, or book a tour that includes transport.

If you prefer a slower, more scenic route, there’s a train from Dar es Salaam to a nearby town called Kilosa. From there, you’d need to take a taxi or private car to reach Mikumi.

For air travel, while there’s no large airport directly at the park, you can fly to Iringa or even arrange a private or chartered flight to a small airstrip closer to Mikumi, which some safari companies include in their packages, especially the ones operating from Zanzibar.

Is it worth doing a 1-day safari from Zanzibar with a charter flight? Well, I was glad I didn’t. The planes started landing about one hour after I entered the park with my driver, and they left about 3 PM, while my safari finished after 6 PM. My opinion is that if you want to do a safari, do it right. A rushed fly-in and fly-out tour sounds like just a taste of adventure. If you want to see real Tanzania, escape Zanzibar madness as soon as possible.

To get to Mikumi from Zanzibar independently, you’d first take a ferry to the mainland, then continue by car or bus to the park.

Mikumi National Park, Tanzania
Mikumi National Park, Tanzania

The best time to visit

The best time to visit Mikumi National Park is during the dry season, which runs from around June to October. During these months, the weather is cooler, and animals tend to gather around water sources, making them easier to spot on safari drives. The grass is shorter and the roads are in better condition, which also helps with visibility and access.

While the park is open year-round, the rainy season (especially March to May) can make travel more difficult. Roads may become muddy, and animals spread out, making sightings a bit trickier. That said, the rainy months also bring lush green landscapes and are ideal for birdwatching, as many migratory species arrive then.

I visited the park at the beginning of March and despite a few minutes of drizzling, the weather was perfect and we saw quite many animals!

Where to stay?

I can recommend Simanga Lodge in Mikumi Town, which was suggested to me by my safari tour operator. Clean and spacious room with a mosquito net and a hot shower. A shop and some restaurants are within walking distance. All of that for 25.000 TZS per night, which was an excellent deal.

How much does it cost?

Safari from Mikumi

I did a huge research of safari tour operators in Mikumi Town, contacting all of them and asking if they have any groups of tourists that I can join to share costs. Unfortunately, the beginning of March is a low season and there were no other options than hiring a private driver. I decided to go with TanzAmerica Safaris, as they were easy to contact on WhatsApp and offered the best price – 165 USD for a car with driver, lunch and all entry fees. Cons of travelling solo!

Safari from Zanzibar

A 1-day tour by charter flight from Zanzibar costs about 450 – 700 USD per person, depending on the operator and your negotiation skills.

Self-drive

If you’re planning a self-driving visit to Mikumi National Park in Tanzania, it’s important to be aware of the associated fees.

Entrance Fees (Per Person, Per Day):

Foreign Non-Residents: 30 USD

Foreign Residents/Expatriates in Tanzania: 15 USD

East African Community (EAC) Citizens: 5,000 Tanzanian Shillings

Children (Aged 5–15): 10 USD for foreign non-residents; 2,000 Tanzanian Shillings for EAC citizens

Children Under 5: Free

Vehicle Entry Fee:

Foreign Tourists: $10 per vehicle

EAC Residents: 5,000 Tanzanian Shillings per vehicle

Additional Fees:

Concession Fee (for overnight stays within the park): 25 USD per adult; 10 USD per child

Public Campsites: 30 USD per adult; 5 USD per child

Special/Seasonal Campsites: 50 USD per adult; 10 USD per child

My experience

I was picked up by my safari driver upon arrival in Mikumi Town and was taken to my accommodation. We agreed on the plan for the next day, and as always on this kind of trip, early wake up was necessary – 5:30 AM!

The driver showed up on time, and we set off to the entrance of the national park. The car was a bit different from usual as it wasn’t a Toyota Land Cruiser. It was more of an open style, what’s cool if it’s not raining.

The driver paid the entrance fees, and soon we drove through the entrance gate. After about 15 minutes, we spot a lion. It was quite weird to see it in such proximity to a busy A7 road, which goes through the park. The number of other safari cars was minimal as the tourists from Zanzibar hadn’t arrived yet.

Then, we spent a lot of time with elephants and giraffes. Honestly, sometimes I felt a bit bored because how long can you observe a giraffe feasting on an acacia tree? And after visiting Serengeti, all the next safaris just aren’t that impressive anymore.

We went to see some more lions sitting under the tree, as the driver was informed about them on the radio. It was quite a big group, at least six! Some cars were trying to come closer and they drove off the road, which is forbidden in national park. Unfortunately, tourists want selfies and drivers want tips… Luckily, my driver didn’t have such an idea and we just observed the lions from a distance. Let wildlife stay wild!

Mikumi National Park, Tanzania
Mikumi National Park, Tanzania

Soon, we got another heads-up on the radio – this time it was a leopard. Once we arrived, it was just there, chilling in the tree. Amazing view! I managed to take a few pictures before it went down and disappeared in the grass. With wildlife, it’s all about the timing.

Then, we made a short stop next to the hippo pool. Compared to Serengeti, it was quite a disappointment, with literally just five hippos inside and one crocodile nearby.

l was getting hungry, so the information about lunch break came just in time. We pulled over at a dedicated building which served as a kind of canteen. The lunch was served in the form of a buffet, and the food was really tasty.

After lunch, we did quite a long drive, but we just saw some more giraffes and a few zebras. It was the hottest time of the day, so the animals weren’t too active. We stopped at the huge baobab tree, which was empty inside. Baobab trees are some of the most distinctive and iconic trees in Africa, often called “upside-down trees” because their thick trunks and spindly branches resemble roots sticking into the sky. They can live for thousands of years and grow massive, some have trunks wide enough to shelter people or even host small shops inside.

These trees store huge amounts of water in their trunks to survive dry seasons, making them crucial to the ecosystems where they grow. Their fruit, often called “monkey bread,” is rich in vitamin C and other nutrients, and the bark, leaves, and seeds are used in traditional medicine and food.

Then, we started heading back to the exit. The day was spent much better than I expected, and I appreciated that the driver didn’t try to cut the safari short and get back to town early. We really made use of the day to the maximum, even though in the second half of it, we didn’t see many animals.

Once we reached the main road, the driver helped me catch a bus heading to Morogoro, which was my next destination. At some point, he screamed: “Giraffes are crossing the road!”. I immediately turned back and saw a huge group of giraffes and zebras crossing the busy A7 road connecting Mikumi with Morogoro and Dar es Salaam. The truck drivers were stopping to let them pass. I felt like the national park was saying goodbye to me. Soon, a shared taxi stopped and I managed to squeeze inside. Two hours later I was in the hotel in Morogoro.

Mbeya is a city in southern Tanzania, tucked among rolling hills and mountain ranges in the Southern Highlands. It’s a place that blends natural beauty, colonial echoes, and a strong local identity, making it one of Tanzania’s more quietly interesting urban centres.

Mbeya started as a small settlement in the early 20th century, but its story took off during the 1920s when gold was discovered in the area. That sparked a mini-gold rush and attracted miners, traders, and colonial interests, especially during the British administration after World War I. As a result, Mbeya began to grow, first as a mining town, then as a centre of agriculture and transport.

One reason Mbeya has developed steadily is its location. It sits on the crossroads of several important routes: the TAZARA railway that links Tanzania to Zambia, the road to Malawi, and routes deeper into the highlands. That made it a hub for trade, farming, education, and administration.

Mbeya is home to a mix of ethnic groups, including the Nyakyusa, Safwa, and Nyiha, among others. Each group brings its own traditions, language variations, and ways of life. The city has grown into a multicultural spot where urban life blends with rural customs. Economy and Nature

Farming has been a huge part of Mbeya’s story, especially tea, coffee, bananas, and maize. The fertile volcanic soil and cooler climate give the region an edge in agriculture. It’s also near several beautiful natural landmarks: Mount Rungwe, Kitulo Plateau (often called the “Serengeti of Flowers”), and of course, it’s the gateway to places like Matema on Lake Nyasa.

Tukuyu

Tukuyu is located about 70 kilometres from Mbeya. The soil there is volcanic and super fertile, so everything from bananas to avocados to tea grows like crazy. The town gets misty in the mornings, with mountain views and cooler air than most places in Tanzania.

Similar as it was in case of Mbeya, the area around Tukuyu began to change in the colonial era. First, the Germans (late 1800s to WWI), then the British, saw the potential of this fertile land, especially for cash crops like tea and coffee. The colonial powers introduced new farming methods and built infrastructure, much of which shaped Tukuyu’s economy and layout.

Tukuyu may be small, but it has a strong community feel. The local people are warm and welcoming, and the town still holds onto many traditional customs, like clan leadership and local festivals. Christianity is widespread, but traditional beliefs often blend with modern religion in interesting ways.

Visitors come for the waterfalls (like Kaporogwe Falls), hot springs, and hikes around the surrounding volcanic peaks like Mount Rungwe. It’s not packed with tourists, so it still feels very authentic, like you’re getting a glimpse into the “real” Tanzania, off the main tourist path.

How to get there?

Getting to Mbeya is pretty straightforward, and you’ve got a few solid options depending on your budget, time, and sense of adventure.

By Air:

The fastest way is to fly into Songwe International Airport, which is about 25 kilometres from Mbeya. There are regular flights from Dar es Salaam and sometimes other major cities like Zanzibar or Arusha. Once you land, you can grab a taxi or local transport into the city. It’s an easy drive, usually under an hour.

By Road:

If you’re up for a long ride or want to see more of the countryside, road travel is doable and actually pretty scenic in parts. Long-distance buses connect Mbeya to cities like Dar es Salaam, Iringa, and even as far as Dodoma. The ride from Dar takes about 10–12 hours, depending on road conditions and stops, so it’s best to go with a reputable bus company for safety and comfort.

You can also drive yourself if you’re renting a car. Just be ready for some winding roads through the mountains, especially as you approach Mbeya.

By Train:

The TAZARA railway (Tanzania-Zambia Railway) runs from Dar es Salaam all the way to Kapiri Mposhi in Zambia, passing through Mbeya. It’s slower than flying or taking a bus, but it’s a unique way to see the landscape and meet people along the way. It’s a throwback kind of experience, rustic but memorable.

From Mbeya to Tukuyu:

You can catch a local bus or minibus from the main bus terminal in Mbeya town. It’s an affordable option and commonly used by locals. The ride usually takes 2 to 2.5 hours, depending on stops and road conditions. The buses leave fairly often throughout the day.

If you want more comfort and flexibility, hiring a taxi or private car is a great option. The drive is scenic and smooth in most parts, especially the stretch through Rungwe District. You can stop at viewpoints, markets, or tea estates along the way.

How to get around?

Inside Mbeya and Tukuyu, you’ll find minibuses (dala-dalas), motorcycle taxis (bodas), and regular taxis to get around. If you’re planning to explore nearby towns or attractions like Matema or Kitulo, hiring a car or taking local transport will get you there, though travel times can be longer than expected due to road conditions.

The best time to visit

The best time to visit Mbeya is during the dry season, which runs from around June to October. During these months, the weather is cool, especially in the mornings and evenings, and the skies are mostly clear. It’s perfect for hiking, sightseeing, or exploring nearby places like Kitulo Plateau or Matema by the lake.

Mbeya sits in the highlands, so it already has a cooler climate than much of Tanzania. Even during the dry season, it’s not scorching. The landscape also stays surprisingly green compared to drier parts of the country, thanks to its elevation.

If you visit during the rainy season (roughly November to April), expect lush scenery and blooming landscapes, especially in places like Kitulo, which comes alive with wildflowers. But the downside is that heavy rains can make travel tricky, especially on rural or unpaved roads. I visited Mbeya and Tukuyu in the first half of May, and there were afternoon storms, but nothing extraordinary.

Where to stay?

I can highly recommend The Peace of Mind Resthouse in Mbeya. I had a room on the upper floor with nice views and a small balcony. The rooms are nicely decorated with local art. They have a restaurant and safe parking for motorcycles and cars.

In Tukuyu, options are more limited, and I stayed in the DM Motel. The room was spacious and cheap, but the food at the restaurant was very average, and there was no WiFi.

What to see around Mbeya

I started the day with the intention of going to Lake Ngosi. I went out of my hotel and walked on the streets of the town centre looking for some boda boda riders. When I found one, we negotiated the price, and soon I was enjoying the ride. After taking a turn off the tarmac to the dirt road, it got way more bumpy. The last section was pretty bad and steep, so sometimes I had to get off the bike and walk.

Lake Ngosi, also called Lake Ngozi, is a volcanic crater lake and part of the Poroto Mountains. It was formed as a result of volcanic activity and sits in the caldera of an extinct volcano. It’s the second-largest crater lake in Tanzania and is known for its striking emerald-green water, which reflects the dense surrounding forest and the mineral content of the lake. The lake is about 2.5 kilometres wide and rests at an elevation of around 2,000 metres above sea level, which contributes to its cool climate and lush vegetation.

Accessing the lake involves a short hike through montane forest, and my driver decided to walk there with me. I had the feeling he had never been in this place before, and he was enjoying it as much as I was.

Mbeya, Tanzania
Lake Ngozi

The panorama of the caldera lake was truly magnificent. There was a sign claiming that it’s possible to take a trail down to the lake shore but it seemed to be super steep. We looked for an alternative and walked for about 15 minutes following the ridge, but then we decided to turn back as the path got more rough.

Once we came back to the motorbike, of course, the “rangers” magically appeared to collect the entrance fee. Well, the view was worth it even though the entrance fee was way too high (30.000 TZS). Unfortunately, it’s a common rip-off for white tourists in Tanzania. I always try to negotiate the price and usually they agree but at that time they were quite tough.

We set off to Mbeya and then I asked the rider to take me to one more place: The Great Rift Valley View Point. It’s about half an hour out of town, following the road B345. The ride was very scenic with many turns and my buddy was riding very carefully which I highly appreciated. There was small fee to enter the viewpoint (5.000 TZS – don’t let them trick you into paying more) from which I could see impressively wide open space of the Rift Valley. Another cool things is that to get there, you need to pass the highest point of all trunk roads in Tanzania.

Mbeya, Tanzania
The view to the Great Rift Valley

I ended the day with a hike to the Cross Of The Summit which is a hill on the suburbs of Mbeya. The start is near the Desderia Hotel and it takes approximately one hour. The trail is not always clear so download offline map on Mapy.com and follow power lines to the peak. A beautiful panorama of Mbeya can be soon from there.

What to see around Tukuyu

I have done all the activities around Tukuya with a very friendly local guide and ranger: Ridhiwani Gambalela. He had a car, so it was easy to get around and the price for trips was very reasonable and always negotiable. He also has a lot of connections in town so helped me to organize a guide to Mount Rungwe. Here is his WhatsApp number: +255 766 849 317.

Tukuyu, Tanzania
City center of Tukuyu

Climbing Mount Rungwe

I had a toast with egg for breakfast at the hotel and then Ridhiwani arrived. First, we went to the gas station to refuel his car to make it to the beginning of the trail and back, and then drove towards the mountain, picking up my Meike and buying some snacks. Maike was a friend of Rindhiwani and on that day he was my hiking buddy and a guide. Once we arrived at the trailhead, there was no one else around see we set off.

The trail was mostly in the forest and we were able to spot some monkeys. Unfortunately, there were so many flies that we couldn’t let us stop even for a minute. We were walking with tree branches in our hands, trying to get rid of them. The trail was climbing up gradually and it was quite easy to follow.

When we were close to the summit, the landscape became more open and the flies immediately disappeared so we could enjoy the views and eat some snacks undisturbed. I felt a bit tired but probably this was the result of walking without breaks. So yeah – do not forget insect repellent. We had one and sprayed ourselves thickly but even then the flies were all around.

After about half an hour at the summit, we decided to start walking back as we could dark clouds on the horizon and we heard first thunder. The way down felt quite long and monotonous. The flies were driving me nuts again!

Once we finished, we had to wait about 45 minutes for Rindhiwani to come and pick us up. It started raining and became very windy. Luckily, there was a building in which we could find a cover. We finished the hike just in time!

We hiked to the top following the so-called Sukuya Route and I paid 40 USD + some extra shillings for gas to the car.

Mount Rungwe, Tanzania
The summit of Mount Rungwe
Mount Rungwe, Tanzania
Ponorama from Mount Rungwe

Kapologwe Waterfall

After claiming Mount Rungwe, we decided to visit one more place—a waterfall. At some point, the road turned out to be terribly muddy, and instead of driving, we were sliding. At some point, a local guy heading in the opposite direction told us that he didn’t recommend continuing as we might get stuck. Instead, we parked the car on a roadside and continued on foot.

It took us about 40 minutes one way, and the walk was very scenic. We passed an agricultural area and a local village, where I was charged a 10.000 TZS entrance fee to the waterfall. The mud was all over my shoes, and it felt like they weighed one kilogram more each.

The waterfall was really cool and first, we discovered the cave behind it. It is possible to camp there which must be an amazing experience! Then, we went down to see the waterfall from the front.

Tukuyu, Tanzania
Kapologwe Waterfall
Tukuyu, Tanzania
Kapologwe Waterfall
Tukuyu, Tanzania
Kapologwe Waterfall

Kiwira God’s Bridge

A natural rock formation located which is basically a huge stone arch that spans across the Kiwira River, looking almost like a man-made bridge, but it was formed naturally over time by the movement of water and erosion.

The bridge is surrounded by lush greenery, waterfalls, and dramatic cliffs, giving the whole area a very mystical and breathtaking feel. Local stories and legends say the bridge was created by a divine act, which is why it’s called “God’s Bridge.” Some even believe it’s a sacred place.

The site isn’t super developed for tourism yet, so it feels very wild and untouched.

Tukuyu, Tanzania
Kiwira God’s Bridge
Tukuyu, Tanzania
Kiwira God’s Bridge

Isabula Waterfall

Another nice waterfall in the region but it is not easy to find the way down. It’s deep and the stream is strong so be careful if you case of swimming.

Crater Lakes

In the Tukuyu area of southern Tanzania, there are several beautiful crater lakes formed by ancient volcanic activity. This region, part of the broader Mbeya highlands, is geologically active, with old volcanoes and fault lines shaping the landscape. Over time, some volcanic craters filled with rainwater and groundwater, creating deep, clear lakes surrounded by lush greenery and steep crater walls.

Some of the well-known crater lakes around Tukuyu include Lake Ngozi which I already described above. However, there are also smaller crater lakes like Kyungululu, Masoko, Ikapu, Kingili or Itende. These lakes are typically very clean and have important local cultural or spiritual significance. Many locals believe the lakes are sacred or have mysterious qualities.

Kitulo National Park

Kitulo National Park is a protected area, covering about 413 square kilometers. It’s perched at around 2,600 meters above sea level, between two mountain ranges called the Kipengere and Poroto Mountains. The park is famous for its rich variety of wildflowers and plants, especially orchids, which explode into color during the rainy season from November to April.

Nicknamed “The Garden of God,” Kitulo is unique because it was the first national park in tropical Africa set up mainly to protect its plant life. Over 350 species of plants grow there, and it attracts botanists, hikers, and nature lovers, especially when the meadows are in full bloom.

Beyond the flowers, Kitulo also has forests like the Livingstone and Ndumbi Forests. These areas are home to rare animals like the Kipunji monkey, some small antelopes, and even unusual birds like the blue swallow and Denham’s bustard. Big predators are rare, so it’s more about scenery, hiking, and birdwatching than traditional safari animals.

Access to the park usually starts from Mbeya city, and a four-wheel-drive vehicle is often necessary, especially during the rainy months. Visitors can stay in nearby towns or camp inside the park. The best time for flower lovers is during the rainy season, while dry months are better for trekking.

It’s possible to cut the costs and go without a private car, but it requires some planning and more time. You can take a local bus or dala-dala from Mbeya to Matamba, the nearest village to the park. From there, you can usually find motorcycle (boda-boda) riders willing to take you to the park entrance.

Keep in mind that Kitulo is a vast plateau, and without your own transport inside the park, exploring can be challenging. If you’re mainly interested in hiking and enjoying the flowers, a boda-boda can drop you off at a trailhead, but arranging a return ride in advance is essential.

Matema

A small but historically and culturally rich town located on the northern shores of Lake Nyasa (also known as Lake Malawi). It’s known for its beautiful lakefront setting, sandy beaches, and surrounding green mountains, which give it a peaceful and almost untouched vibe compared to more urbanised areas.

Read more HERE.

Matema, Lake Malawi, Tanzania
Sunrise at Lake Nyasa

Matema is a small but historically and culturally rich town located on the northern shores of Lake Nyasa (also known as Lake Malawi). It’s known for its beautiful lakefront setting, sandy beaches, and surrounding green mountains, which give it a peaceful and almost untouched vibe compared to more urbanised areas.

Historically, Matema has been significant in several ways. The town lies within the traditional homeland of the Nyakyusa people, a Bantu-speaking ethnic group with deep roots in the region. The Nyakyusa have a strong cultural identity, and Matema has served as one of the key points for interaction between their traditional lifestyle and the influences brought by outsiders, particularly during the colonial and missionary periods.

In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, Christian missionaries, particularly from Germany and later from other parts of Europe, established missions in Matema. One of the most prominent was the Moravian Mission, which played a central role in the area’s religious, educational, and medical development. The mission helped build schools and a hospital that still serve the community today. These early institutions became pillars of modern education and health services in the southern highlands of Tanzania.

Because of its lakeside location, Matema has also had economic and ecological importance. Fishing and small-scale farming are the backbone of the local economy, and the lake itself is a vital resource for food and transportation. In recent years, Matema has drawn more attention for tourism due to its natural beauty, attracting travellers interested in hiking, bird watching, and experiencing traditional life along Lake Nyasa.

Lake Nyasa

Lake Nyasa, also known as Lake Malawi in Malawi and Lago Niassa in Mozambique, is Africa’s third-largest lake by surface area and the second-deepest after Lake Tanganyika. It stretches over 560 km and reaches depths of over 700 meters. Tanzania shares its northeastern shore with Matema, offering some of the most peaceful and less-touristed access points.

The lake is famous for its incredible fish diversity, especially cichlids, a colourful group of fish found nowhere else on earth. There are over 800 species in the lake, many of which are popular in aquariums worldwide. The lake is also home to crocodiles, hippos (though less common near Matema), and a variety of birds like fish eagles and herons.

The lake is a vital resource: locals use it for fishing, transportation, and fresh water. Fishing villages dot the shore, and traditional boats (often carved from logs) are a common sight. It has clear waters and sandy beaches, making it perfect for swimming and boat rides, with fewer worries about bilharzia in the northern Tanzanian section compared to some southern parts.

There’s a long-standing but peaceful border disagreement between Malawi and Tanzania over the exact boundary in the lake. Tanzania calls it Lake Nyasa, Malawi calls it Lake Malawi. Same lake, different names depending on where you stand.

Matema, Lake Malawi, Tanzania
Lake Nyasa

How to get there?

To get to Matema, you’ll first need to make your way to Mbeya, the nearest major city and the main access point to the area.

Step 1: Get to Mbeya

By Air: The fastest way is to fly into Songwe International Airport, which is about 25 kilometres from Mbeya city. There are regular flights from Dar es Salaam and other major Tanzanian cities.

By Road: You can also drive or take a long-distance bus to Mbeya. The city is well-connected by highways, and the road from Dar es Salaam is a popular route.

By Train: Another option is to use the TAZARA railway, which connects Dar es Salaam to Mbeya. It’s slower but can be a scenic and interesting way to travel.

Step 2: Travel from Mbeya to Matema

Once you’re in Mbeya, Matema is about 130 kilometres away, located on the shores of Lake Nyasa.

Public Transport: For a budget-friendly option, you can catch a bus or shared minibus. You’ll get to experience everyday local travel.

By Car: Renting a car or hiring a private driver is a more comfortable but expensive option. The drive takes around 2.5 to 3 hours and takes you through lush landscapes, small towns, and fertile farmland.

Alternative by ferry

There is a ferry connecting Matema with Mbamba Bay, however it’s really hard to get information about its schedule. When I was walking around the beach, I asked a few people and all of them told me different departure time. If you are determined enough, I am sure it must be a great adventure, even though the trip can last about 24 hours. I would love to do it next time!

Matema, Lake Malawi, Tanzania
Lake Nyasa
Matema, Lake Malawi, Tanzania
Village at the lake

The best time to visit

The best time to visit Matema is during the dry season, which runs from June to October. The skies are mostly clear, temperatures are pleasant, and humidity is low. Perfect for enjoying the lake, hiking around the mountains, or just relaxing on the beach.

Lake Nyasa is calm and clear, making it great for swimming, boat rides, and photography. Roads are more passable during the dry season, especially the stretch between Mbeya and Matema, which can get muddy or washed out in heavy rains.

November to May is the wet season. It’s greener and less dusty, but rain can be heavy. I visited the place in the second half of May, and every day in the afternoon, there was a storm, but usually it didn’t last too long.

Where to stay?

I decided to walk to the Lutheran Centre and ask for a room there. They had one available, but the price was quite ridiculous initially. Luckily, I managed to negotiate down by 50% and paid 40.000 TZS for a room with a fan. The fan didn’t work well, and I asked for another one, which was brought to my room and was much more powerful. Breakfast was not included, but the location was great and the bungalow was basically right on the beach.

Try Palazzo Garden Resort or Landmark Hotel Matema Beach if you need more comfort.

My experience

I didn’t manage to wake up for sunrise even though it was my plan. Luckily, I had two nights in Matema, so there was another chance! I think the noise from the fans in my room was louder than the alarm 🙂

Instead, I walked along the lake shore towards the spot that was marked on Mapy.com a hippo viewpoint. I didn’t see any wildlife, but there was a specific smell in the air that I experienced before in Serengeti National Park near hippo pools, so I think they couldn’t be too far away. Probably they were chilling in the upper part of the river but there was no path to get there.

Matema, Lake Malawi, Tanzania
Hippo Viewpoint

For easy access to the hippo viewpoint, just follow the shore:

Then, I walked to the Matema Waterfall and damn, what a hike it was. The first section was easy, just through the village. Surprisingly, I didn’t meet anyone who wished to be my guide, so I continued alone. Soon, the path involved stream crossing and scrambling on some rocks. Nothing difficult, but my sneakers were way too slippery. Do yourself a favour and wear shoes with a good grip!

Two young boys caught up with me, and I was following them. They were jumping from one stone to another like goats so soon I was left behind. I also gave up on trying to keep my shoes dry and simply stepped into the water.

Matema, Lake Malawi, Tanzania
Matema Waterfall

I reached the base of the falls but then the last section involved pulling myself up using the rope. It was really hard time and I had sore muscles on the next day! The views were worth it though and the waterfall was really pretty, with a small pool at its base. Perfect for a quick dip.

I came back the same way, and again I met someone. That time, it was a local guy carrying some stuff in a big bag and heading back to the village. He was very nice, and I could see that he was looking back and checking on me from time to time.

After reaching the main road, I continued the hike towards Ikombe Village. The trail was sometimes really overgrown, and I was doubting if it was a good idea, but of course my stubbornness didn’t allow me to give up and I pushed further to finally arrive at the village.

Matema, Lake Malawi, Tanzania
Views from the hike to Ikombe Village

Immediately after entering, I was approach by a guy who offered to take me back to Matema in his canoe. That was exactly was I was hoping for so after negotiating the price and agreeing on 20.000 TZS, we set off. Unfortunately, then the bad part started.

The guy started insisting on showing me the village, his house and all that. When we finally jumped inside the canoe, he stopped next to some shitty cave and then wanted to stop again next to some waterfalls but I said no. He was talking to me in Swahili all the time, sometimes showing the gesture, which I believed was supposed to mean that he wanted more money. I didn’t like his aggressive behaviour and I promised to myself that he won’t get even a shilling more to what we had agreed.

Then, he handed over a paddle to me a few times, saying that I should try paddling myself, but after one try, I didn’t want to continue. He just didn’t understand what ‘no’ meant. The canoe felt very unstable, and I just wanted to arrive back at Matema without any unnecessary experiences en route. When we were approaching the ‘port’ area, I asked him to drop me off there. When I gave him the money, he started yelling and probably cursing at me. I just walked away, ignoring him totally!

Matema, Lake Malawi, Tanzania
The beach near Matema “port”

I walked along the beach back to my hotel, but very black clouds were forming on the sky and the wind was getting stronger. It was a matter of minutes for the heavy rain to start. I couldn’t see any place to hide, other than a local house. I went there and met two people sitting on the veranda, so I simply asked them if it’s ok to wait for the storm to finish under a roof for a while. They said I was welcome.

After a few minutes, they invited me to join them for a meal. There was a lady who was probably either a young wife of the owner or his daughter. She came with a bucket of water and poured it on our hands, and soon she served ugali with fish and beans. It was really tasty food, but what I liked the most was the experience of eating in a local house. It’s not that often that you experience real hospitality in Tanzania, without asking for something in return. The guy spoke relatively good English, although he wasn’t too talkative.

When the rain finished, I said goodbye to my new friends and walked back to my room, stopping on the way to buy some chipsi mayai for dinner. I was thinking how quickly the situation can change. From the bad experience on the canoe, to very heartwarming meal shared with strangers. That’s why I love being on the road!

In the night, I went out to see the night sky full of stars and wow, it was freaking amazing! I could literally see the Milky Way! I also made sure to have plenty of alarms, not to miss the sunrise on the following morning 🙂 It was another great spectacle of nature!

Kigoma is a historic town and regional capital in western Tanzania, located on the eastern shore of Lake Tanganyika, the longest and second-deepest freshwater lake in the world. It serves as a major transportation hub, connecting remote western Tanzania to the rest of the country by road, rail, air, and boat.

Kigoma’s history is tied to its strategic position on Lake Tanganyika, which made it a vital point for trade and colonial expansion. In the 19th century, the region was a centre for Arab trade routes, including the ivory and slave trades, and attracted European explorers, missionaries, and colonizers.

One of the most famous events linked to Kigoma’s past is the meeting between explorers Henry Morton Stanley and Dr. David Livingstone in nearby Ujiji, a small town just south of Kigoma. In 1871, Stanley greeted Livingstone with the famous words, “Dr. Livingstone, I presume?”. A legendary moment in the history of African exploration.

During the German colonial era (the late 1800s to early 1900s), Kigoma was developed as a transport and administrative centre. The Central Line railway, which still connects Kigoma to Dar es Salaam, was built during this time, and a large port was constructed to support steamship transport on the lake.

Under British rule after World War I, Kigoma continued to grow, maintaining its role as a key port and rail terminal. Even today, you can find remnants of both German and British colonial influence in the town’s architecture and infrastructure.

Modern Kigoma is a laid-back lakeside town, known for its vibrant local markets, friendly atmosphere, and access to incredible natural and cultural sites like Gombe National Park and Mahale Mountains.

How to get there?

By Plane:

There are domestic flights available from major cities like Dar es Salaam, Arusha, or Dodoma to Kigoma Airport. Flights are operated by local airlines such as Air Tanzania, and the flight usually takes around 2–3 hours, depending on the route.

By Train:

The train from Dar es Salaam to Kigoma offers a scenic journey across the country, taking about 2–3 days. It’s a slower, more immersive way to travel — ideal for those who enjoy overland adventures and watching Tanzania’s diverse landscapes.

By Bus or Car:

Travelling by bus or private vehicle from Dar es Salaam is possible, but the trip is very long (over 1,200 km) and can take 30+ hours, depending on road conditions. From Mwanza, it is about 8-10 hours by bus.

Kigoma, Tanzania
The panorama of Lake Tanganyika

The best time to visit

The best time to visit Kigoma is during the dry season, which runs from June to October. This is when the weather is most pleasant with sunny days, cooler temperatures, and minimal rain, making it ideal for exploring the town, taking boat trips on Lake Tanganyika, and trekking in nearby parks like Gombe or Mahale.

I wouldn’t demonise the rainy season too much, though. I visited Gombe National Park at the end of February, and the weather was just fine, with short rains only in the afternoons.

Where to stay?

I can fully recommend LEADERS LODGE. The room was clean and quite spacious. They can also prepare food and help you with arranging the trip to Gombe or any other place on your onward travel. Room prices vary so expect to pay about 30.000 – 50.000 TZS, depending on the size of the room and if it comes with AC or not.

My experience

Livingstone Museum

I started my exploration of Kigoma by… visiting nearby Ujiji and the Livingstone Museum. It marks the place where Dr David Livingstone, the Scottish missionary and explorer, met Henry Morton Stanley, a journalist and explorer, in 1871 after years of Livingstone being out of contact with the outside world.

There is not much to see inside, and limited displays tell the story of the two explorers, the significance of their meeting, and the broader context of exploration and colonialism in East Africa. However, I had the feeling that it was written from the perspective of a white person.

One of the main highlights is a memorial monument marking the exact spot where Stanley is believed to have met Livingstone. The surrounding grounds are peaceful, with views of the lake, giving a sense of the journey and isolation that characterised exploration during that time.

The museum is located just a short distance from Lake Tanganyika and around 7 kilometres from the centre of Kigoma. You can easily get a tuk-tuk to get there. Upon arrival, you will get an introduction from the guide, and then you will be free to walk around by yourself.

Kigoma, Tanzania
The building of the Livingstone Museum
Kigoma, Tanzania
Memorial monument near the Livingstone Museum

Train Station

The old train station in Kigoma is a historic building and one of the most significant colonial-era landmarks in western Tanzania. It serves as the western end of the Central Railway Line, which connects Kigoma with Dar es Salaam across the entire country.

Built during the German colonial period, before World War I, the station reflects a unique architectural style influenced by European design, particularly featuring arched entryways and a columned façade that resembles elements of North Italian architecture. Its location on the shores of Lake Tanganyika gave it strategic importance as a gateway for transporting goods and passengers between inland Tanzania and the coastal regions.

Kigoma, Tanzania
Kigoma Railway Station

Kigoma Hilltop Hotel

Great location with an expansive view of the lake, and a private beach where you can spend a few hours. They charge for the entrance to the terrace, but they have decent food options, so you can just eat something and then enjoy the view for free.

Kigoma, Tanzania
Kigoma Hilltop Hotel

Beaches

Kigoma is located on the shores of Lake Tanganyika, but sometimes it’s not that easy to get to the water. The best places to admire the view and have a sunset drink are Katabe Beach, Paradise Beach or Kidyama Beach.

Kigoma, Tanzania
The view of Katabe Beach
Kigoma, Tanzania
Paradise Beach

Out of Town

Gombe National Park

Gombe National Park is a small but world-famous national park in western Tanzania, best known for its chimpanzees and the groundbreaking research of Dr. Jane Goodall. It’s located along the shores of Lake Tanganyika, near the town of Kigoma, and offers a rare chance to see wild chimpanzees up close in their natural forest habitat. It was established in 1968 and has about 52 square kilometres. In addition to chimps, the park is home to olive baboons, red colobus monkeys, vervet monkeys, and over 200 species of birds. Dense forests, waterfalls, and stunning views of Lake Tanganyika add to the park’s beauty.

Read more about my visit to the park in a separate post HERE.

Mahale Mountains National Park

One of Tanzania’s most remote and breathtaking protected areas, located along the eastern shores of Lake Tanganyika in the far west of the country. It’s best known for its wild chimpanzee population, crystal-clear waters, densely forested mountains, and the feeling of complete isolation.

Visiting Mahale is an incredible experience, especially for those wanting to see chimpanzees in the wild, but it’s not a budget destination. The costs add up quickly due to its remoteness, lack of road access, and reliance on boats or small aircraft.

Gombe National Park is a small but world-famous national park in western Tanzania, best known for its chimpanzees and the groundbreaking research of Dr. Jane Goodall. It’s located along the shores of Lake Tanganyika, near the town of Kigoma, and offers a rare chance to see wild chimpanzees up close in their natural forest habitat. It was established in 1968 and has about 52 square kilometres. In addition to chimps, the park is home to olive baboons, red colobus monkeys, vervet monkeys, and over 200 species of birds. Dense forests, waterfalls, and stunning views of Lake Tanganyika add to the park’s beauty.

Chimpanzees

Chimpanzees in Tanzania are among the most fascinating creatures, especially those found in the Gombe and Mahale Mountains National Parks. They are our closest living relatives, sharing about 98.7% of human DNA, which is why their behaviour often feels so familiar. In the wild, they show remarkable intelligence, using tools like sticks to extract termites, leaves to soak up drinking water, and stones to crack nuts. Their social lives are equally complex; they live in flexible communities where group members come and go, form alliances, and even resolve conflicts through gestures like hugs or touches. In some areas, they’ve even been seen hunting smaller monkeys in coordinated group efforts, displaying strategy and cooperation rarely seen in other animals.

Gombe National Park, Tanzania

Chimpanzee mothers are especially caring, with young ones staying close for several years, learning essential survival and social skills. These primates also show signs of deep emotion — they’ve been observed mourning the loss of group members, staying by their side quietly and gently. Each chimpanzee is unique, with its personality and voice. They communicate using a variety of vocal sounds, facial expressions, and gestures, creating a rich and meaningful form of social interaction.

Despite their brilliance and charm, chimpanzees face serious threats — including habitat destruction, illegal hunting, and diseases passed from humans. Conservation efforts in Tanzania continue to play a vital role in ensuring these intelligent animals can survive and thrive in the wild. Seeing them in their natural forest homes is not only an unforgettable experience but a powerful reminder of our connection to the natural world.

Research of Dr. Jane Goodall

Dr. Jane Goodall is one of the most influential primatologists in history, and her research completely transformed how we understand chimpanzees — and even ourselves. She began her work in 1960 at Gombe Stream in Tanzania, where she lived among wild chimpanzees, observing them closely in their natural habitat. What set her apart was her unconventional approach: she gave names to the chimpanzees rather than assigning them numbers (which was against the norm at the time), and she spent long periods quietly watching and recording their behaviour.

One of her most groundbreaking discoveries was that chimpanzees use tools — something that, until then, had been considered a uniquely human trait. She saw them modifying twigs to fish termites out of holes, proving they could solve problems and plan. Her work also revealed that chimpanzees are emotionally complex, with social structures, strong family bonds, and even behaviours like affection, jealousy, playfulness, and grief.

Over time, she also uncovered a darker side to chimpanzee life — including territorial aggression and violence, even within their groups. These insights challenged long-held beliefs about both chimpanzee nature and human uniqueness. Dr Goodall’s research showed that many behaviours once thought to define humans actually existed in other primates too.

Beyond the science, her legacy is also about conservation and activism. As the threats to chimpanzees grew — from deforestation to poaching — she shifted her focus to protecting them and their environments. She founded the Jane Goodall Institute, which supports research and leads global conservation efforts and education programs, particularly involving youth through her Roots & Shoots initiative.

How to get there?

Getting to Gombe National Park is an adventurous journey. Located on the remote eastern shores of Lake Tanganyika, near the town of Kigoma, Gombe is only accessible by boat, but the trip is worth it.

Step 1: Travel to Kigoma

Kigoma is the nearest town and the main entry point for travellers heading to Gombe.

By Plane: There are domestic flights available from major cities like Dar es Salaam, Arusha, or Dodoma to Kigoma Airport. Flights are operated by local airlines such as Air Tanzania, and the flight usually takes around 2–3 hours, depending on the route.

By Train: The train from Dar es Salaam to Kigoma offers a scenic journey across the country, taking about 2–3 days. It’s a slower, more immersive way to travel — ideal for those who enjoy overland adventures and watching Tanzania’s diverse landscapes.

By Bus or Car: Traveling by bus or private vehicle from Dar es Salaam is possible, but the trip is very long (over 1,200 km) and can take 30+ hours, depending on road conditions. From Mwanza, it is about 8-10 hours by bus.

Step 2: Boat from Kigoma to Gombe

Since there are no roads into Gombe, the only way in is by boat from Kigoma, across Lake Tanganyika.

Private Boat: A motorboat can be hired from Kigoma, usually taking 1–2 hours, depending on the boat and lake conditions. This is the fastest and most flexible option, especially if you’re travelling with a group or want to stick to your schedule. Needless to say, it isn’t cheap and you should count on about 200 USD for the return trip.

The receptionist from Leaders Lodge in Kigoma, where I was staying, got me in touch with Hussein, who works as a ranger but also has his motorboat. There was also one more traveller willing to join the trip and share costs. Hussein arrived at the lodge and after hard negotiations, we agreed on the price of a 2-day 1-night trip to Gombe, including transport, entrance fee, accommodation, food and a guide.

Hussein: +255 686 109 100, mtawigayatourskigoma@gmail.com

Public Boat: A more affordable option is the local wooden boat, often called a lake taxi, which departs from Kibirizi Beach near Kigoma town. It leaves around midday most days except Sundays. The ride takes 3 to 4 hours, as it makes stops in villages along the shoreline. You’ll return to Kigoma early in the morning — the boat passes by Gombe around 7:00–8:00 AM.

After getting to Gombe, you need to pay an entrance fee which gives you the right to be in the park for 24 hours. Taking into consideration the schedule of public boats, it’s really difficult to make the most of this time.

Gombe National Park, Tanzania

The best time to visit

The best time to visit Gombe National Park is during the dry season, which runs from June to October. Trails are easier to hike as the forest paths are drier and less slippery. Chimpanzees are more active and easier to find, as they stay closer to the lower slopes in search of food. There’s less rain, so your chances of clear weather and uninterrupted tracking are much higher. Lake Tanganyika is calmer, making boat travel to and from the park smoother and safer.

The Rainy season runs from November to May. The forest becomes lush and green, which is beautiful but trails can get muddy and challenging. Chimpanzees tend to roam deeper into the forest, making them harder to track. There’s a higher chance of boat travel delays due to rough lake conditions.

I wouldn’t demonize rain season too much though. I visited Gombe National Park at the end of February and the weather was just fine, with short rains only in the afternoons.

Where to stay?

In Kigoma, which will certainly be the starting and ending point of your travel to Gombe National Park, I can fully recommend LEADERS LODGE. The room was clean and quite spacious. They can also prepare food and help you with arranging the trip to Gombe or any other place on your onward travel. Room prices vary so expect to pay about 30.000 – 50.000 TZS depending on the size of the room and if it comes with AC or not.

Inside the national park, you can choose between a standard room in a bigger building or a luxury tent.

How much does it cost?

Park Entrance Fees:

Non-East African Citizens:

Adults (16 years and above): 100 USD per day

Children (5 to 15 years): 20 USD per day

Tanzanian Residents and Expatriates:

Adults: 50 USD per day

Children: 10 USD per day

East African Citizens:

Adults: 10,000 TZS per day

Children: 2,000 TZS per day

Accommodation Costs:

Budget Options: Basic rooms are available starting around 40,000 TZS per night.

Transportation Expenses:

Boat Transfers to Gombe: From Kigoma, boat transport is necessary:

Public Boats: More affordable but less frequent and slower. Hard to make the best out of your 24-hour stay in the national park due to the oat’s schedule.

Private Speedboats: Faster and more convenient, with costs varying based on negotiation and group size but should be anywhere between 100 – 200 USD.

Additional Costs:

Guided Chimpanzee Trekking: Required and may incur additional fees.

Meals: Depending on accommodation, meals might be included or charged separately.

Sample Budget for a 24-hours Visit and 2 Chimpanzee Trekkings:

Park Fees: 100 USD

Accommodation: 40 USD (budget option)

Boat Transfer: 100-150 USD (estimate for private boat split among the group)

Guiding Fees and Meals: 60-80 USD (estimate)

My experience

Day 1

We agreed with Hussein that he would pick us up from accommodation at 9 AM and he was slightly late but nothing too dramatic, especially when it comes to Tanzanian standards. He dropped us at the lakeside where we waited for the boat. It was an average-sized motorboat and the ride was very comfortable. Lots of green hills, small villages, children walking to school and all that. Very scenic and real local life going on!

Once we arrived, we were shown to our rooms. Bed with mosquito net plus a toilet with a cold water bucket shower. Perfectly enough for one night. Then, as the lunch was not ready, we decided to jump into the boat again and go looking for chimpanzees. After a short ride, we were dropped at the beach and together with the ranger we walked into the forest. Soon, we met more rangers whose responsibility was tracking chimpanzees and we were given face masks.

First, we heard them. Then, we spotted them hanging out in the trees. A few minutes later another big group appeared and they were heading to the stream to drink water. It was awesome to watch them from that close and they were totally not bothered by human presence. We had plenty of time to take pictures and watch their behaviour. Most importantly, there were no other tourists around. Just me, my Canadian travel buddy and the guide.

After about an hour, we took a boat again and went back to the National Park HQ for lunch. The staff said that apparently they were told that we didn’t want to have lunch at all so they didn’t prepare any. The organization of the place isn’t on the highest level but after two months in Tanzania, I wasn’t too surprised or pissed. I just told them to give us rice with beans and some bananas. That was exactly what we got.

When our stomachs got full, we went to see the Kakombe Waterfall. The stream in the Kakombe Valley feeds the waterfall in a 20-meter drop down the cliff. A pretty sight and on the way there we were able to see the research building where Jane Goodall used to work. Currently, there are some information boards.

Gombe National Park, Tanzania
Research building

Our guide started heading back but I asked him if we could complete the loop and hike up to the viewpoint. He said we needed to be back at the HQ by 5 PM and we didn’t have enough time but after some encouragement, he agreed and took us there. It was supposed to be about 1-hour hike up but we made it in less than 30 minutes, even though it was steep. Don’t take time predictions in Tanzania too seriously! The views were very nice, with impressively green hills and huge Tanganyika Lake.

Then we descended back to HQ finishing the loop hike. We met with a local researcher who explained to us a bit more about her work. Fascinating! It was great to end the day with a refreshing swim in the lake, followed by a short walk along the lakeside. The water in Tanganyika Lake looked very clean, especially compared to Lake Victoria! Baboons usually hang out around the HQ so keep an eye on them.

Day 2

In the morning we hopped on the boat and did another session of chimpanzee tracking. The place was the same as the day before but there were much more other tourists who arrived for one day trip. We saw a big group chilling right on the hiking path and then we followed them deeper into the forest once they started moving. Unfortunately, humans aren’t as smart as chimpanzees and they started making noises, approaching too close and as a result chimpanzees got annoyed.

One of them passed by really close to me and the guide told me to stay still. Great experience! Then, we climbed the hill to see some more of them sitting high in the tree.

Gombe National Park, Tanzania

We spent over an hour in the forest and it was time to leave. We came back to the headquarters to pack our things and soon we were on the boat back to Kigoma. Even though it was an expensive trip, I was so happy that I decided to do it. Money will come back, memories will last forever!