Azemmour is a historic town located on the Atlantic coast of Morocco, situated about 75 kilometres southwest of Casablanca and near the mouth of the Oum Er-Rbia River. It has a long history, dating back to the Phoenician and Roman periods. It gained prominence during the Islamic period, especially under the Almohad and Merinid dynasties. The town was known for its strategic importance and was a notable centre for trade and commerce.
In the early 16th century, the town was captured by the Portuguese, who built fortifications and left a lasting architectural imprint. They held Azemmour from 1513 until they abandoned it in 1541. That’s why the town features a mix of Moroccan and Portuguese architecture. Notable landmarks include the old medina with its narrow streets and traditional houses, the Portuguese fortress, and the Kasbah, which offers a panoramic view of the Oum Er-Rbia River.
Azzemour
El Jadida is also a coastal city, located about 17 kilometres south of Azzemour. It is the capital of the El Jadida province in the Casablanca-Settat region.
In 1502, the Portuguese established a fortified city called Mazagan on the site. The fortifications were completed in 1541 and included impressive bastions, ramparts, and a cistern, which remains a notable architectural feature. The city served as an important trading post and military stronghold, playing a crucial role in the Portuguese Empire’s presence in Morocco.
In 1769, after more than 250 years of Portuguese control, the city was recaptured by the forces of Sultan Mohammed ben Abdallah of Morocco. The Portuguese, anticipating the siege, destroyed parts of the fortifications before leaving, but the city was soon rebuilt and renamed El Jadida, meaning “The New”.
In 1912, Morocco became a French Protectorate, and El Jadida, like many other Moroccan cities, underwent significant urban development under French influence. The city’s infrastructure improved, and it continued to thrive as a commercial port.
Following Morocco’s independence in 1956, El Jadida continued to grow and modernize. Today, it is a popular tourist destination known for its historical sites, including the Portuguese Cistern and the old fortress, which are part of the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Portuguese City of Mazagan.
How to get there?
From Casablanca:
By Car:
From Casablanca, drive southwest on the A5 motorway. The distance is approximately 75 kilometres and takes about 1 hour. Take the exit toward Azemmour and follow the signs to the town centre.
By Train:
Take a train from Casa Voyageurs or Casablanca Port stations to Azemmour. The journey usually takes around 1 to 1.5 hours. The Moroccan railway operator ONCF runs frequent trains between these destinations. Once at the Azemmour train station, you can take a taxi to reach the town centre or just walk.
By Bus:
Various bus companies operate services from Casablanca to Azemmour. The trip duration is around 1.5 to 2 hours, depending on traffic and the bus company.
From Azzemour to El Jadida:
By Car:
Drive northeast on the N1 road. The distance is about 17 kilometres and takes approximately 20 minutes.
By Train:
Take a local train from El Jadida to Azemmour. The travel time is around 20-30 minutes. Check the ONCF (Office National des Chemins de Fer) website or visit a local train station for updated schedules and ticket prices.
By Bus:
Some buses go along Boulevard Mohammed V in Azzemour and go all the way to El Jadida. Look for bus stops or ask locals for directions.
By Taxi:
Grand taxis (shared taxis) are available and can take you from El Jadida to Azemmour. The ride is short and inexpensive.
The best time to visit both cities is during the spring (March to May) and fall (September to November) when the weather is mild and pleasant. Summer can be quite hot, while winter brings cooler but still enjoyable temperatures. Choosing spring or fall ensures a comfortable climate for enjoying the beach and exploring the cities and their surroundings.
El Jadida
Where to stay?
I decided to stay in Hotel Dar Aboulanwar in El Jadida which is not in the city centre but easily accessible by taxi for a few dirhams. The room and bathroom were super spacious and impeccably clean!
How long to stay there?
If you start early enough, both cities can be visited comfortably in one long day.
What to see in Azzemour?
I actually decided to ignore all the vigorous taxi drivers at the train station and simply walked to the city centre. First, I made a stop at Mohamed V Bridge, to admire the panorama of the city walls and the Oum Er-Rbia River. Well worth it!
Then I proceed to the medina, which is a highlight of the city. Constructed in the 16th century close to the banks of the Er-Rbia, it still has some of its Portuguese heritage, particularly in the elaborate doors. Locals have a long history of being involved in the arts and handicrafts so you may witness them weaving colourful textiles. It was also much fun to discover enormous murals that cover decaying buildings.
At some point, my peaceful exploring was interrupted by some dude who was following me and kept insisting on being my guide. Super annoying but that is how it works in Morocco so you either have to refuse strongly, or agree but negotiate the price beforehand. He did indeed tell me some interesting facts but of course, the whole ‘tour’ was rushed as he wanted to get rid of me as soon as possible.
We strolled around the Grand Mosque, Kasbah Mosque (fr. Mosqu茅e de la Kasbah) and the Shrine of Rabbi Braham Moul Ness, which comprises several rooms, some subterranean, containing artefacts and books in Hebrew. On the corniche, there are some simple places for tea or coffee with views over the river and fortifications. You can also take a boat trip.
I left medina through the gate towards Av. Allal Ben Abdellah. The city walls on that side were quite impressive. I didn’t have any idea how to get to El Jadida so I simply started walking along Boulevard Mohammed V trying to hitchhike but my presence was totally ignored by all drivers. After 15 minutes, some guy approached me and said that there was a bus stop a few hundred meters away and regular buses head to El Jadida from there. Lucky me!
Azzemour
What to see in El Jadida?
I started exploring the town with the walk along the Corniche, with El Jadida Beach to the right. A few people were chilling under umbrellas but at this time of the year (October), it was quite empty. There is Mohammed V Park on the other side of the road but unfortunately, there is lots of trash around.
Then, I walked into the remains of the Portuguese Fortress. Notable structures include the Portuguese Cistern, the Church of the Assumption, and the city’s fortified walls. The main entrance is from the side of Av. de Suez and to the left of the main gate you will see the beautiful door which is the entrance to the old mosque.
The Church of the Assumption is an old Portuguese church from the 16th century, currently transformed into a theatre. It’s rarely open so you rather won’t have the chance to peek inside.
City walls in El JadidaCity walls in El JadidaEl Jadida Beach
A bit further is the cistern, which was built beneath the Citadel before it was enlarged into the greater walled fortification in 1541.It’s unclear what the chamber’s initial purpose was. It may have served as a granary, armoury, or barracks, but in 1541 it was documented as being transformed into a cistern. It has served as a filming setting for several films, the most well-known worldwide being Orson Welles’ Othello. As of October 2023, the building was closed for renovation.
Go past the Spanish Chapel and continue to the city walls. It’s free to access and it’s fun to walk around, even though it’s not possible to do the full loop.
The Ait Bouguemez Valley, often referred to as the “Happy Valley,” is located in the Central High Atlas Mountains of Morocco. It is situated at an elevation of around 1,800 to 2,000 meters above sea level, providing cooler temperatures compared to the surrounding lowlands.
The valley is home to the Ait Bouguemez Berbers, an indigenous group with a rich cultural heritage. The local language is Tamazight, a Berber language. Traditional ways of life are well-preserved here, with agriculture being a primary occupation. The valley is known for its walnuts, apples, and barley crops.
Visitors often hike to nearby peaks such as M’Goun (4,071 meters), the second-highest mountain in Morocco. Moreover, the valley offers opportunities for cultural immersion, including homestays and interactions with local communities. Other notable attractions include the dinosaur footprints near the village of Ibaqalliwn, and the ancient granaries, or “igherm,” used by the Berbers for storage.
How to get there?
To get to Ait Bouguemez Valley, you have several options depending on your starting point and preferred mode of transport:
By Car
The best option is to rent a car either in Marrakesh. There are several interesting places to see en route and the landscape of the High Atlas Mountains is extremely scenic. The distance to Ait Bouguemez Valley is about 180 kilometres (4 – 5 hours).
If you drive from Ouarzazate, it is 222 km (5,5 – 7 hours). The landscape around the road R307 is very beautiful! Fuel stations and amenities become sparse as you get closer to the valley. Ensure your vehicle is well-fueled, and carry enough water and snacks.
By Bus
First, take a bus from Marrakesh to Azilal. The bus ride takes about 4 to 5 hours. Several companies operate this route, and you can find buses departing from the main bus stations in Marrakesh.
In Azilal, you can find a grand taxi or a local minibus to the Ait Bouguemez Valley. This part of the journey takes about 2 to 3 hours. Taxis and minibuses are available near the bus station in Azilal.
The best time to visit Ait Bouguemez Valley is spring (March to May) and autumn (September to November). The weather is pleasantly warm, with daytime temperatures ranging from 15掳C to 25掳C. This makes exploring villages, hiking, and enjoying outdoor activities comfortable. Autumn is also a harvest time for apples and walnuts, offering a chance to experience local agriculture practices.
Summers can be scorching, with temperatures often exceeding 30掳C. While some travellers can handle the heat, it may be uncomfortable for extended outdoor activities. Winters are cold with occasional snowfall. Daytime temperature ranges from 0 C to 15 C. The valley can be very picturesque under a blanket of snow, but some trails and roads may be inaccessible or challenging due to snow and ice.
You should always have some warmer layers, regardless of the season. In the end, it’s mountains there!
How long to stay there?
One day is enough if you plan just to drive to the valley with a few photo stops. However, I highly recommend staying overnight in one of the local homestays and planning at least a few hours hike in the area.
Where to stay?
I spent the night in La Montagne Au Pluriel in Agouti village. The room was cosy and the shared bathroom facilities were clean with ample hot water. The owner was very helpful and offered advice on where to explore the surrounding area. He can also organize a guide for longer treks, e.g. to Mount Goun. I ate breakfast and dinner there and the food was delicious and traditional.
Ait Bouguemez ValleyAit Bouguemez Valley
What to do in Ait Bouguemez Valley?
Trekking
Ait Bouguemez to Timit
I did a half-day trek, starting at my accommodation in Agouti. The morning was so cold that I even wore my thermal underwear but as soon as the sun rose from behind the mountains, it got really hot!
I turned right, crossed over the river and then turned left, following a dirt road surrounded by apple orchards. It’s about 7,5 km (1.5 – 2 hours) to reach a viewpoint in Timit where the ancient granary is located. The views around it are splendid and for a few dirhams, you can go inside and on its roof.
I returned to La Montagne Au Pluriel following an asphalt road. The total distance of the hike was 13 kilometers and it took me about 4-5 hours.
Ait Bouguemez to Ikiss
Another hike option would be heading south towards Ait Said and further through Arrouss to Ikiss. From Arrouss, the path winds its way south through a beautiful gorge, with some nice wildflowers usually lining the route. Once the path leaves the gorge you find yourself at one end of some wide open fields. Monitor the time and your position on Mapy.CZ and turn back to return to Ait Bouguemez the same way. The distance to the Berber village of Ikiss is about 9 kilometres one way.
This section of the hike corresponds to the first day of the ascent to Mount Goun.
Mount Goun
The biggest hiking challenge in the region is definitely Mount Goun. Standing at about 4,071 meters, it is the third-highest peak in North Africa.
There are various routes to the summit, with the standard route passing through the Tarkeddit Plateau. The trek is considered moderate to challenging. It involves high-altitude hiking, and trekkers should be in good physical condition and acclimatized to altitude.
The best time to trek Mount Goun is from May to September when the weather is more stable and the trails are clear of snow. However, weather conditions can change rapidly in the mountains, so it’s important to be prepared.
Guided treks usually take 4-6 days and the best is to find a local guide directly at Ait Bouguemez instead of using the services of travel agents from Marrakesh. It will save you a lot of money, even though you need to arrive at Ait Bouguemez at your own cost. The guide will provide you with food, tents, mules, and muleteers.聽
For other hiking options, please ask about at your accommodation. Locals have the best knowledge of where to go!
Ait Bouguemez ValleyAit Bouguemez ValleyAit Bouguemez ValleyAit Bouguemez ValleyAit Bouguemez Valley
Dinosaur Footprints
Nothing indicates the presence of the site from the road so it’s a bit hard to find. You need to go behind the houses and it feels like walking into someone’s backyard. Most likely some locals will show you the way for a few dirhams. The rural experience is more fascinating than the tracks themselves, although it really feels like touching the history.
Lac Izoughar
Most likely the lake will be without water, but the views with nearby peaks are well worth it. It’s an easy trek of about 1 hour from the town of Zawyat Oulmzi, starting from the vicinity of Gite Touda.
Tizi N’ Tighist Conservation Center
This museum is located at the foot of Mount Rat and preserves rock inscriptions dating back to more than 2500 years BC. Look for “Tizi N’ Tighist conservation des gravures rupestres de Jbel Rat” in Google Maps.
Tizi n’ Tirghist
You need to go over this pass with an elevation of 2.628 meters above sea level to reach the road R302. Before driving up, make sure the weather conditions are favourable.
Iminifri Natural Bridge
Amazing geological formation located near the town of Demnate. It is a natural rock arch that spans a river, created through the erosive forces of water over a long period. There are steps down on both sides so you can easily make a half an hour loop hike. Good footwear is recommended but you can skip the guide services.
Tizi n’Test is a mountain pass located in the High Atlas mountains, that connects the cities of Marrakech and Taroudant via a scenic but challenging route. The pass is at an elevation of approximately 2,092 meters above sea level.
It has been a critical route for centuries, used by traders and travellers moving between the northern plains and the southern regions of Morocco. The area is rich in Berber culture, with many traditional Berber villages that can be visited along the route.
The Tizi n’Test area is geologically active and subject to seismic events due to the region’s tectonic activity. The High Atlas Mountains are situated on the boundary between the African and Eurasian tectonic plates and this tectonic interaction creates fault lines and seismic activity.
September 2023 Earthquake
A strong 6.8-magnitude earthquake occurred in Morocco on September 8, 2023. The epicentre was roughly 72 kilometres southwest of Marrakech, close to the town of Oukaimedene in the High Atlas Mountains. This earthquake occurred at a shallow depth of 18 kilometres, resulting in strong surface shaking that was felt over a wide area, including Casablanca, Portugal, and Algeria. Significant damage was wrought by the earthquake, especially in the province of Al Haouz and the neighbouring High Atlas area. Over 2,900 people lost their lives and over 5,500 were injured as a result of it. Buildings collapsed and infrastructure was damaged in numerous isolated mountain settlements, making rescue operations difficult. Marrakech’s historic neighbourhoods also sustained significant damage.
About 20 minutes after the initial earthquake, an additional 4.9 magnitude aftershock occurred, making rescue and relief efforts much more challenging. The level of destruction and the difficult terrain presented major obstacles to the Moroccan government’s and foreign aid organizations’ massive attempts to deliver relief to the impacted populace.
Destruction along Tizi n’TestDestruction along Tizi n’TestDestruction along Tizi n’TestDestruction along Tizi n’Test
How to get there?
The best option is to rent a car either in Taroudant, Marrakesh or Agadir. The landscape is phenomenal and it’s good to be independent and travel at your own pace. I did the drive in a Renault Clio so a 4×4 vehicle is not necessary.
If you decide to start from Agadir, I recommend using the service of Click鈥檔鈥橤o Car Rental. Amiable guys and easy to contact on WhatsApp. I rented a Renault Clio for the whole month and got a nice price.
Not having a car will make a trip significantly longer and less comfortable. Most likely you will need to take local minibuses or hitchhike but there is not a lot of traffic.
The best time to visit
The best time to drive Tizi n’Test is during the late spring, summer, and early autumn months.
Late Spring (April to June): Generally mild and pleasant temperatures. The mountains are lush with greenery and wildflowers are in bloom, making for beautiful views.
Summer (July to September): Warm to hot temperatures but cooler in the higher elevation of the pass. The road is typically clear of snow, and driving conditions are generally safe. There are fewer tourists compared to other popular destinations in Morocco, offering a more tranquil experience.
Early Autumn (October to early November): Mild and pleasant temperatures with the possibility of cooler nights. The autumn colours begin to appear, adding to the visual appeal of the drive.
Winter (December to February): Definitely to avoid. The pass can be closed due to snow and icy conditions. Even if open, the driving can be hazardous. Early spring (March) is not the best either. While the snow might begin to melt, conditions can still be unpredictable, with the possibility of lingering snow and ice on the road.
Safety
As mentioned before, I did the drive in a Renault Clio so a 4×4 vehicle is not necessary. However, always aim to travel during daylight hours to better appreciate the views and ensure safer driving conditions. Before embarking on your journey, check the weather forecast and road conditions. Weather in mountainous areas can change rapidly.
A mobile signal may be weak or nonexistent in some areas, so inform someone of your travel plans and expected arrival time. Last but not least, ensure your vehicle is in good condition, with a full tank of fuel and emergency supplies. By planning your trip during the optimal months and taking necessary precautions, you can enjoy a safe and scenic drive through the Tizi n’Test.
The landscape around Tizi n’TestThe landscape around Tizi n’TestThe landscape around Tizi n’TestThe landscape around Tizi n’Test
How long does it take?
The distance between Taroudant and Marrakesh is 225 km and it takes 5 hours of driving but obviously, you should add some time for stops as the views are amazing. A detour to Lalla Takerkoust will add about one more extra hour to driving time.
The drive through Tizi n’Test
I had some doubts if driving through the pass a few days after the earthquake was a good idea, but the day before departure I had met a guy travelling on a motorcycle who confirmed that the pass was open. I left Taroudant very early in the morning and headed east towards Oulad Ali. It was October 24th, so a bit over a month since the deadly earthquake.
On the way there I noticed three young boys hitchhiking on the side of the road so I decided to give them a lift. They seemed to be really nice even though we couldn’t communicate in English. I made several stops to take pictures and soon I saw the first village which seemed to be destroyed by the quake. There was a lot of rubble and some collapsed buildings. I bit further were emergency tents in blue or yellow colours, providing temporary shelters for inhabitants.
Destruction along Tizi n’TestThe landscape around Tizi n’TestTemporary tentsThe landscape around Tizi n’TestThe landscape around Tizi n’Test
The way to the top of the pass was easy and soon I reached Hotel La Haute Vue. A traditional small cafe and restaurant where you can enjoy cool drinks or even spend a night if you wish to. Waking up near the top of the pass must be magical!
More interesting places and landscapes were waiting along on the descent. Near the pass is the historic Tin Mal Mosque, built in the 12th century. It is one of the few mosques in Morocco that non-Muslims can visit and is an important site in Moroccan history. It was significantly damaged during the earthquake and was off-limits for tourists.
I took many hitchhikers on that day. The most interesting was the guy carrying a huge bag full of nuts. As we reached his destination, he repacked some nuts into a smaller plastic bag and handed it to me as a thank-you gift. Very nice of him!
The area along the descent towards Marrakesh seemed to be the most destroyed by the earthquake, with lots of collapsed buildings emergency tents and destroyed cars. I saw plenty of police and military vehicles as well as volunteers working for World Central Kitchen and other humanitarian organizations providing aid.
Temporary tentsDestruction along Tizi n’TestDestruction along Tizi n’TestDestruction along Tizi n’TestDestruction along Tizi n’TestDestruction along Tizi n’TestDestruction along Tizi n’TestMy Brahim townMy Brahim townMy Brahim town
Local people were forced to live inside temporary tents while the temperatures at night were close to 0 C. It was a shocking view and it helped to realize how powerful that natural disaster was. The houses in that region are mostly built from clay or earth and that’s why they are so fragile to collapse.
When I passed Asni, I decided to make a detour to Lalla Takerkoust to see the lake, but the way to get there was much more interesting than the lake itself.
The lake is actually a reservoir created by the Lalla Takerkoust Dam, built during the French colonial period in the 1920s. It is a popular spot for water activities such as jet skiing, kayaking, paddle boarding, and fishing. The serene environment also makes it ideal for picnics and relaxing by the water.
Agafay Desert may not be as impressive as the Sahara, but the first impression was quite good. Lots of quads were driving around as it is a popular half-day activity from Marrakesh.
Ouarzazate is a city in south-central Morocco known for its stunning landscapes, rich history, and significance in the film industry. It is often referred to as the “Gateway to the Desert” as most tourists pass through it on the way to the Sahara.
Moreover, it is home to Atlas Studios, one of the largest film studios in the world. The city has earned the nickname “Hollywood of Morocco” because numerous blockbuster films and TV series have been shot here, including “Gladiator,” “Lawrence of Arabia,” “The Mummy,” and “Game of Thrones”. The area’s diverse landscapes, including the Atlas Mountains and Draa Valley, provide perfect backdrops for filmmakers but also attract tourists looking for hiking, camel trekking, and exploring traditional Berber villages.
A short drive away from Ouarzazate is Skoura, a picturesque town renowned for its extensive palm groves, which are among the most beautiful and well-preserved in Morocco. These groves are irrigated by an intricate system of canals and offer a lush contrast to the surrounding arid landscapes.
How to get there?
To get to Ouarzazate, you have several options depending on your starting point and preferred mode of transport:
By Car
The best option is to rent a car either in Marrakesh or Agadir. There are several interesting places to see en route and the landscape is phenomenal. The distance to Ouarzazate is 192 kilometres (3.5 – 4.5 hours) from Marrakesh and 343 km (5-6 hours) from Agadir.
If you decide to start from Agadir, I recommend using the service of Click鈥檔鈥橤o Car Rental. Amiable guys and easy to contact on WhatsApp. I rented a Renault Clio for the whole month and got a nice price.
Skoura is another 45 km to the east of Ouarzazate.
By Bus
There are buses from Marrakech to Ouarzazate. CTM and Supratours are the most popular transport companies. From Ouarzazate to Skoura the best is to take a shared taxi.
By Shared Taxi
Shared taxis (called “grand taxis”) are available for longer distances. You can take a shared taxi from Marrakech to Ouarzazate and then another shared taxi from Ouarzazate to Skoura.
By Organized Tour
Many travel agencies in Marrakech offer day trips to Ait Benhaddou and Ouarzazate. These tours include transportation, a guide, and sometimes lunch.
The best time to visit Ouarzazate and Skoura is spring (March to May) and autumn (September to November). The weather is pleasantly warm, with daytime temperatures ranging from 20掳C to 30掳C. This makes exploring towns, hiking, and enjoying outdoor activities comfortable.
Summers can be scorching, with temperatures often exceeding 40掳C. While some travellers can handle the heat, it may be uncomfortable for extended outdoor activities. Winters are mild to cool, with daytime temperatures ranging from 10掳C to 20掳C. Nights can be quite cold, especially in the desert areas.
Atlas Studios
How long to stay there?
Both Ouarzazate and Skoura can be visited in one very long day, but it would be smart to stay overnight in the area and plan some time to see Ait Benhaddou.
What to see in Ouarzazate?
Atlas Studios
You need to join a guided tour of the studio if you wish to go inside and see many film sets and props that remain in place. I honestly found it hard to believe that all those weird and a bit kitschy constructions were used in some high-budget movies.
The business was started in 1983 by Mohamed Belghmi. Since then, it has been able to grow because the area closely resembles the natural habitats of many different countries.
Films and TV series that have used the services of the studio include The Jewel of the Nile, The Living Daylights, The Mummy, Gladiator, Kingdom of Heaven, Asterix & Obelix: Mission Cleopatra, Babel, Game of Thrones, Atlantis, Vikings, Prison Break, The Old Guard and others.
They have vintage film sets, props, and equipment from films shot in Ouarzazate. You are free to roam around the place as you like, no guide is needed. Since this is a museum of cinema, having video screens playing clips from the different movies that were filmed here or documentaries about their creation would have greatly improved the experience.
Cinema MuseumCinema MuseumCinema Museum
Taourirt Kasbah
A UNESCO World Heritage site, this impressive kasbah was once a prominent stronghold of the Glaoui family. It is one of the most striking and well-preserved specimens of its sort, the building is mostly constructed of rammed earth and mud brick. Unfortunately, it was closed during my visit in November 2023 due to the damage caused by the earthquake.
There is a parking on the other side of the street, in front of the building but don’t let them rip you off as certainly they will try to do so. Just have some small money with you.
Old Synagogue
The place contains a very old synagogue and the rabbis’ quarters which also serve as a museum for Jewish artifacts from across Morocco. I spent about half an hour exploring with the guide. Of course, in the end, he asked for a tip for his service and once I gave him that, then he asked again for a donation to maintain the place. It leaves some bitter feeling but that’s the way they do business in Morocco. Don’t miss the view from the rooftop terrace, where you can get a panoramic view of the Kasbah and the mountains.
The view from the rooftop of the Old SynagogueThe view from the rooftop of the Old Synagogue
Taourirt Mosque
A mosque located a few steps away from the old synagogue. The streets around are picturesque but they are full of children who run after you begging for money or sweets so it’s impossible to discover this in peace.
Place Mouahidine
Main square which comes alive at night with street vendors, musicians and entertainers rolling in. Zero hassles from anyone which is a nice difference after visiting Marrakesh.
Barrage El Mansour Eddahbi
The location is made up of a sizable reservoir that was created in 1972 when a hydroelectric dam was built on the Oued Dr芒a.
Finnt Natural Oasis
A lovely little oasis off the beaten path, consisting of a deserted village strung out alongside the river. The inhabitants seem to move to the newer part on the other side of the river.
What to see in Skoura?
Palmeraie de Skoura
There are more than 70,000 palm, fig, almond, and pomegranate trees in this enormous desert garden. This terrain is very fruitful since it has numerous canals and channels that are supplied by the Hajaj and Madri rivers. These two rivers receive their water from the mountains in the High Atlas and carry enough water to replenish the nearby aquifers. Many kasbahs are scattered across Skoura Palmeraie, making exploration very exciting.
Palmeraie de Skoura
Kasbah Amridil
All kasbahs start to look the same after a while, but I think what makes this one stand out is the amount of the structure that is original and the beautiful surroundings of the old village and palm groves. Kasbah Amridil is one of Morocco’s most famous and well-preserved structures, which is even featured on the 50 dirham banknote. It was constructed in the 17th century as an Islamic school, known in Morocco as a Zaouia, to teach the Quran.
There are two entrances with access to different parts and each costs separately. Apparently, they are owned by two brothers who fight for money. Family, huh?
If you are looking for a guide in Skoura to explore the area by hiking or cycling, this is an excellent choice. They can provide you with information about agriculture, irrigation, and local traditions or even take you further to the Gorges of Sidi Flah.
Kasbah Sidi El Maati
One of the hidden kasbahs in the area. Not so easy to find, as you have to cross the riverbed and continue further on a gravel road. You may find locals willing to show you the way or even accompany you for a tip.
Mus茅e Memoire de Ouarzazate
Interesting place to get some background info on traditional lifestyle but I was asked 50 DM at the end of the 15-minute tour which I believe was way too much. Maybe I was unlucky with the guide as I felt I didn’t learn anything.
Ait Benhaddou is a historic fortified village, or “ksar,” located in the Ouarzazate province of Morocco. It’s situated along the former caravan route between the Sahara and Marrakech.
The ksar is a striking example of traditional Moroccan earthen clay architecture. It features high defensive walls, several tall towers, and kasbahs (fortified houses), all constructed from red mud bricks. The layout and construction techniques have remained largely unchanged for centuries. Because of that, it has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1987.
The ksar has been used as a backdrop for numerous films and TV shows, including “Gladiator,” “Lawrence of Arabia,” “The Mummy,” and “Game of Thrones”. Actually, the filming of “Gladiator II” began on the 8th of May 2023 in Ouarzazate, 30 kilometres away from Ait Benhaddou. How cool is that?!
Most residents have moved to more modern accommodations across the river, and traditional houses have been transformed into souvenir shops. Yes, it is touristy but the atmosphere is magical, especially in the morning or evening, without masses of tourists from organized trips.
How to get there?
To get to Ait Benhaddou in Morocco, you have several options depending on your starting point and preferred mode of transport:
By Car
The best option is to rent a car either in Marrakesh or Agadir. There are several interesting places to see en route and the landscape is phenomenal. The distance to Ait Benhaddou is 180 kilometres (3 hours) from Marrakesh and 341 km (5-6 hours) from Agadir.
If you decide to start from Agadir, I recommend using the service of Click鈥檔鈥橤o Car Rental. Amiable guys and easy to contact on WhatsApp. I rented a Renault Clio for the whole month and got a nice price.
Ait Benhaddou
By Bus
Take a bus from Marrakech to Ouarzazate and then take a local bus or a shared taxi to Ait Benhaddou. CTM and Supratours are the most popular bus companies.
By Shared Taxi
Shared taxis (called “grand taxis”) are available for longer distances. You can take a shared taxi from Marrakech to Ouarzazate and then another shared taxi from Ouarzazate to Ait Benhaddou.
By Organized Tour
Many travel agencies in Marrakech offer day trips to Ait Benhaddou, often combined with a visit to Ouarzazate. These tours include transportation, a guide, and sometimes lunch.
The best time to visit Ait Benhaddou is spring (March to May) and autumn (September to November). The weather is pleasantly warm, with daytime temperatures ranging from 20掳C to 30掳C. This makes exploring towns, hiking, and enjoying outdoor activities comfortable.
Summers can be scorching, with temperatures often exceeding 40掳C. While some travellers can handle the heat, it may be uncomfortable for extended outdoor activities. Winters are mild to cool, with daytime temperatures ranging from 10掳C to 20掳C. Nights can be quite cold, especially in the desert areas.
Ait BenhaddouAit Benhaddou seen from the dried riverbed
How long to stay there?
Visiting A茂t Benhaddou takes a few hours at a slow pace but it rather isn’t a full-day destination. However, it can be easily combined with a visit to nearby Ouarzazate.
What to see in Ait Benhaddou?
There is plenty of roadside parking so find your spot and pay the fee to one of the guys. Then, proceed towards the ksar, crossing over the Ounila River, which most likely will be completely dry, depending on the month and weather conditions. Please do not use the secondary entrance to the town but only the official one just after the bridge. Otherwise, you will be charged an entrance fee by local scammers. Entrance to Ait Benhaddou is free and don’t let anyone fool you!
You will most likely be offered a guide service several times and it is up to you if you decide to hire one. I decided not to as I did my research about the town before the visit and more or less I knew its history. If you decide to take a guide, don’t forget to negotiate the price. It’s perfectly normal here so don’t be shy, otherwise you will be scammed.
The small streets of Ait Benhaddou are so pretty that photographers can get busy for many months. The ksar itself is not big, an hour or two is enough to walk around it and look into every nook.
The ksar site has been fortified during the Almoravid era, since the 11th century. Although it is thought that none of the existing structures were constructed before the 17th century, they were built using the same materials and designs that had been in use for centuries prior. The building materials used in the ksar were wood, adobe, clay bricks, and rammed earth (compressed earth and mud, usually mixed with other materials to aid adhesion, e.g. straw) as they were very useful and affordable.
Unfortunately, the willingness of locals to sell foreigners everything that comes to mind can be tiring. Don’t get involved in conversations like: “Where are you from?” as these are just marketing tricks, and you will only waste time and nerves. Explore at your own pace and enjoy the views.
Ait BenhaddouAit BenhaddouAit BenhaddouAit Benhaddou
Next, walk to up the granary, for a 360-degree panoramic view of the village and surrounding landscape. It’s best to do it in the early morning and late afternoon as otherwise it’s really hot.
Another magnificent viewpoint is located on a small hilltop, to the east of Ait Benhaddou. You will need to exit the wall and climb up but it’s so worth it. First of all, it’s far less popular than the viewpoint at the granary and what’s more, you will get a panorama of the whole village and the dried riverbed just right next to it.
Ait Benhaddou from a hilltop viewpointThe landscape around Ait Benhaddou
You can come back to the parking leaving Ait Benhaddou by the secondary entrance (scammers won’t charge you for the exit) crossing the dried riverbed and heading towards La Terrazza Restaurant.
To sum up, Ait Benhaddou is a very beautiful and historical place, although I had the feeling that I was in a place that serves purely as a tourist attraction. It’s definitely not an authentic Moroccan village where you can observe the local lifestyle and get smiles from friendly people. Nevertheless, it’s worth checking out as the views and architecture are simply amazing!
Agdz is a small town located in the Draa River valley in southeastern Morocco. The valley is known for its stunning palm groves and it is ideal for walking, hiking, and exploring the natural landscape.
Historically, Agdz was an important stop on the caravan route linking Marrakech to Timbuktu. This made it a key point for trade and cultural exchange. The town and its surroundings are dotted with old kasbahs (fortified houses) and ksars (fortified villages), which reflect traditional Berber architecture.
N’Kob is situated about 70 km to the east of Agdz, in the Jebel Saghro mountain range and is surrounded by similar rugged terrain and palm groves.
How to get there?
To get to Agdz in Morocco, you have several options depending on your starting point and preferred mode of transport:
By Car
To get to Agdz or N’Kob, the best option is to rent a car either in Marrakesh or Agadir. There are several interesting places to see around town so having a vehicle is essential. The distance to Agdz is 260 kilometres (5-6 hours) from Marrakesh and 360 km (6-7 hours) from Agadir. The distance between Agdz and N’Kob is 70 km and the drive takes about 1 hour, following route R108.
If you decide to start from Agadir, I recommend using the service of Click鈥檔鈥橤o Car Rental. Amiable guys and easy to contact on WhatsApp. I rented a Renault Clio for the whole month and got a nice price.
By Bus
Take a bus from Marrakech to Ouarzazate and then take a local bus or a shared taxi to Agdz or N’Kob. CTM and Supratours are the most popular bus companies.
By Shared Taxi
Shared taxis (called “grand taxis”) are available for longer distances. You can take a shared taxi from Marrakech to Ouarzazate and then another shared taxi from Ouarzazate to Agdz or N’Kob.
Saghro Mountains
The best time to visit
The best time to visit Agdz and N’Kob is during the spring (March to May) and autumn (September to November) months. The weather is pleasantly warm, with daytime temperatures ranging from 20掳C to 30掳C. This makes it comfortable for exploring towns, hiking, and enjoying outdoor activities.
Summers can be extremely hot, with temperatures often exceeding 40掳C. While some travellers can handle the heat, it may be uncomfortable for extended outdoor activities. Winters are mild to cool, with daytime temperatures ranging from 10掳C to 20掳C.+. Nights can be quite cold, especially in the desert areas.
Where to stay?
I spent a night in Palm Grove Apart in Agdz and it was the best accommodation that I had during my entire trip in Morocco. It’s a fully furnished apartment with a living room, kitchen, bedroom and bathroom. Wi-Fi was fast so I had no issues with online work. The host lives upstairs and he was a very friendly older man. There is a parking just right next to the house.
In N’Kob, I stayed at Berber Nomad Kasbah, which was excellent as well. I was welcomed with mint tea and cookies and I was the only guest in the entire house.
Panorama of the city and Saghro Mountains
How long to stay there?
A minimum of one full day is needed to fully discover the area of Agdz and N’Kob. The best would be to have two days to do it at a comfortable pace without rushing in the heat.
What to see in and around Agdz?
Kasbahs
The surroundings of Agdz are dotted with old kasbahs, which reflect traditional Berber architecture. It is a type of traditional fortress or fortified house that serves both residential and defensive purposes and is found mostly in southern parts of Morocco.
Kasbahs are characterized by high walls, often made of mud bricks or stone, designed to protect against attacks. Many kasbahs feature corner towers, which enhance their defensive capabilities and offer vantage points for monitoring the surroundings. Many kasbahs have been restored and are now popular tourist attractions, while some other ones have been converted into hotels or guesthouses, providing unique lodging experiences for travellers.
Kasbah des Arts is well worth a stop and it’s the closest one to Agdz city centre. The current owner will walk you through the history of the place and his family and how he’s renovating the kasbah step by step maintaining its original architecture and atmosphere. You can spend a night there which must be a very unique experience. Not cheap but you will feel like you are at the Prince of Persia movie set 馃檪
The ruins of Kasbah
Another fascinating site is Kasbah des Caids which is a hotel, restaurant and museum – all in one. Unfortunately, the sightseeing experience was ruined by a rude guide who delivered a 10-minute tour basically without any commentary. The entrance is 20 MAD per person but then you are forced to pay more for a ‘guide service’. In my case, he asked for 50 MAD more but it depends on his mood so be careful. It’s not about the money but I really don’t like being scammed!
Kasbah Tamenougalt is abandoned but perfect for studying the architecture of such buildings. There are some elements of street art on the walls. Unfortunately, as it often happens in Morocco, the visit can be ruined by rude “guides” who insist on guiding you for an extortionate price.
Last but not least, Kasbah Timidarte is another treasure that brings you back in time and stimulates your imagination with what it’d be like to travel along the old caravan road and stay in Kasbahs along the way, The rooms have basic amenities but don’t expect a luxury stay in such places. The experience is authentic, the views are amazing and the people are friendly and welcoming. If you don’t want to stay overnight, you will still be able to have a look around and admire the beauty of this building.
Inside Kasbah des CaidsInside Kasbah des CaidsThe tower inside one of the kasbahs
Draa River Panorama
The viewpoint provides a magnificent panorama of one of the largest palm groves in Morocco, located at the feet of Jebel Kissane. It’s definitely worth a stop!
For hiking enthusiasts, Jebel Kissane can be summited but probably it makes sense to hire a guide or at least ensure that you have a good offline map of the trail. The small mountain range is 14 km long and 1.8 km wide at its widest point. There are two ridges on the summit of the mountain, divided in the middle by a ravine. There are multiple peaks but the highest one situated near the western extremity of the range is 1485 m a.s.l.
Tizi’n-Tinififft
If you drive out of Agdz towards Ouarzazate following road N9, you will once again come across a breathtaking landscape full of natural beauty where the man can feel very small. Tizi-n-Tinififft is a high mountain pass at an elevation of 1.693 m a.s.l and the road leading to it is paved. It looks like you are on a completely different planet!
What to see in and around N’Kob?
There is not much to do in N’Kob and it is the mountainous area that surrounds it that makes it worth coming here. The route connecting N’Kob with Boumalne Dades is simply amazing and passes through Tizi’n’Azazarte which is a part of Saghro Mountains Range. The distance is about 90 kilometres and it takes about 2 hours to get to Boumalne Dades but you must plan many stops en route! The rugged plateaus, deep valleys, and volcanic formations show how the force of nature carved the terrain over millennia.
Jebel Saghro Circuit sounds like an amazing, multiday hike in that area and one day I will certainly be back to do it!
Dakhla, located on a narrow peninsula in the Western Sahara region, is a unique and increasingly popular travel destination. Its lagoon is especially famous among water sports enthusiasts, who come over to practice mostly kitesurfing and windsurfing.
Dakhla has a rich history influenced by various cultures, including Berber, Arabic, and Spanish. It was previously known as Villa Cisneros during Spanish colonial rule. Today, the town retains a mix of Moroccan and Sahrawi cultures, with traditional music, crafts, and cuisine being important aspects of daily life.
The area around Dakhla has been inhabited for thousands of years, primarily by Berber tribes. In ancient times, it was part of trans-Saharan trade routes, facilitating exchanges between sub-Saharan Africa, North Africa, and Europe.
Fishermen boats
In the late 19th century, during the Scramble for Africa, Spain established control over parts of the Western Sahara, including Dakhla. The town was founded in 1884 as Villa Cisneros, named after Francisco Jim茅nez de Cisneros, a Spanish cardinal. Under Spanish rule, Villa Cisneros became an important administrative and military outpost. The Spanish constructed infrastructure such as roads, buildings, and a military base.
After World War II, anti-colonial movements gained momentum across Africa. In Western Sahara, resistance against Spanish rule began to intensify. By the mid-20th century, Spain faced increasing pressure to decolonize. In 1975, following the Madrid Accords, Spain agreed to withdraw from Western Sahara, transferring administrative control to Morocco and Mauritania.
Local fishermen on the beach
The withdrawal of Spain led to a conflict involving Morocco, Mauritania, and the Polisario Front, which seeks independence for Western Sahara. Mauritania withdrew in 1979, leaving Morocco in control of Dakhla and most of Western Sahara. A ceasefire was brokered by the United Nations in 1991, but the political status of Western Sahara remains unresolved. Dakhla is currently administered by Morocco, which considers it part of its southern provinces.
Today, the Moroccan Western Sahara Wall or the Berm, which is approximately 2,700 km long, runs south to north through Western Sahara and the southwestern portion of Morocco. It separates the Moroccan-controlled areas on the west from the Polisario-controlled areas on the east.
How to get there?
To get to Laayoune in Western Sahara, you typically have a few options:
By Air: You can fly to Dakhla Airport with Royal Air Maroc from major cities, such as Casablanca or Marrakech.
By Road: The roads are generally well-maintained, but it’s a long journey, so be prepared for a drive of several hours or more depending on your starting point. If you are looking for a rental car in Agadir, I recommend using the service of Click’n’Go Car Rental. They are very friendly guys and easy to contact on WhatsApp. I ended up renting a Renault Clio for the whole month and got a nice price.
By Bus: Supratours and CTMare two popular bus companies operating in Morocco.
The best time to visit Western Sahara is during the spring (March to May) and fall (September to November) when the weather is mild and pleasant. Summer can be quite hot, while winter brings cooler but enjoyable temperatures. Choosing spring or fall ensures a comfortable climate for enjoying nearby beaches and exploring the city and its surroundings.
The city centre of Dakhla
Where to stay?
Karam City Hotel is an excellent choice. It is very well located in the city centre, close to shops, restaurants and waterfront. It has very good internet for remote work and a tasty breakfast that you can purchase additionally.
How long to stay there?
One full day in Dakhla is enough to walk around the town and try seafood. Count in extra days in case you want to practice windsurfing or kitesurfing which are extremely popular in the bay or venture out of town to the desert.
Faro de Dakhla
How to get around?
The city centre of Dakhla can be easily explored on foot, but to reach sights out of it, you will need your wheels. I rented a Dacia Duster for 2 days from Baie Car. I got in touch with them on WhatsApp and the car was delivered straight to my hotel. The price was 900 MAD for 2 days. Perfect experience!
Once driving, don’t forget your passport as you may encounter frequent police checkpoints.
My rented Dacia Duster
What to do in Dakhla?
The city center of Dakhla is not particularly nice to walk around but there are a few sights worth checking out. Several mosques serve the Muslim population: Grande Mosqu茅e de Dakhla, Mosqu茅e Eddarham, Mosqu茅e du Quartier Al-Ghofrane and Mosqu茅e Albir.
Catholic temple is present too – Iglesia de Nuestra Se帽ora del Carmen. A small group of priests, who alternate between this church and the Cathedral of St. Francis of Assisi in Laayoune, oversee the temple. Spanish settlers constructed it for what is sometimes referred to as the Spanish Church. Nearby is a quiet park with a fountain.
Iglesia de Nuestra Se帽ora del CarmenA park with a fountain
The other three sights are located on the outskirts of town, so you will need to take a short taxi ride to get there. Don’t forget to negotiate the price!
Faro de Dakhla is a lighthouse dating back to the Spanish colonial era. The lighthouse is a popular spot for sunset viewing and fishing with a beautiful view of the Atlantic Ocean.
Faro de Dakhla
La Sarga is a fishing village located about 15 km south of Dakhla, at the end of the peninsula. There are hundreds of fishing boats there that are towed to and from the sea by tractors. The working conditions of the fishermen are harsh and the poor housing is eye-opening. The people are friendly although the amount of rubbish all around is overwhelming and depressing view.
Oum El Bouir is a relatively nice sandy beach which is the nearest one to Dakhla city centre.
What to do out of town?
The whole peninsula is famous among water sports enthusiasts and you will see plenty of shops or resorts offering courses of kitesurfing or windsurfing. It’s an excellent place to learn new sports or improve your skills.
Trouke 25 Beach is a good spot to chill with the view of Dragon Island and big parking with plenty of campervans. It is possible to walk all the way to the island during low tide but be careful and check the tide times before you set off as you don’t want to be stuck on the island overnight. Fishermen come over here to collect various seafood from the seabed.
A view of Dragon Island
The White Dune is probably the most popular natural tourist attraction in Dakhla and can be seen in every travel brochure. It is reachable by 4WD through a dirt road cutting across the desert, but if you are ready to walk, you can get there even without 4WD as I did.
From the main road, turn right into a dirt road leading to Paraiso Dakhla Hotel. Drive as far as you can and then simply park the car on the roadside and continue on foot. You may want to use the mobile app MapyCZ for navigation as it shows all the paths in that area. It is possible to turn the hike into a pretty long loop, going back to the car through a desert and not along the coast. Don’t forget the water!
At low tide and from the distance, the White Dune looks like an island. First, I climbed it and then went down again to take some pictures from a different perspective. It was windy but absolutely breathtaking!
The White DuneWalking towards the White DuneA desert on the way to the White DuneA desert on the way to the White DuneA dirt road towards the White Dune
PortoricoBeach is a beautiful place, with a huge bay and a desert that falls directly into the sea. It was so windy that I ended up with sand all over my face. The way down there is a bit bumpy but doable in 2WD with higher clearance. There is a military post but the guards were friendly and greeted me with smiles.
Portorico BeachPortorico Beach
The Tropic of Cancer passes through eight countries in Africa, namely Egypt, Libya, Chad, Niger, Algeria, Mali, Mauritania and Western Sahara. You will spot an information board about 5 kilometres south from the turn-off to Portorico Beach.
The Tropic of Cancer
Imlili Desert was definitely a highlight of my trip. I turned left from the main road, about 55 kilometres south of the Dakhla Roundabout. The target was to reach Imlili Sebkha which is a聽salt flat聽with over 160 permanent holes of hypersaline water containing fish. Unfortunately, the pools are not signposted and I wouldn’t risk going there without 4X4.
For the first few kilometres, the road was in excellent condition but then the asphalt finished and I hit the dirt. It was possible to continue further until I reached a very sandy section. I didn’t pass any other cars on the way there and when I looked around I didn’t see anyone either. As my car wasn’t 4X4, I decided not to try my luck. I parked Duster on the roadside and continued on foot to the nearby hill.
The panorama of the Imlili Desert was magnificent even though it was very windy. I felt some regret that I couldn’t continue driving further but I knew that turning back was the only sensible thing to do. I didn’t even have a mobile signal!
As the alternative to self-driving, the Imlili Desert can be visited as a part of an organized 4X4 tour, however, it won’t be cheap. Ask about it at your accommodation in Dakhla and they will provide you with the latest offers and prices.
Imlili DesertImlili Desert
If you continue further south towards the border with Mauretania, you will pass Imlili Town and most probably another police patrol. A police officer asked me where I was heading but luckily a very simple answer that I was just sightseeing and driving around satisfied him. About 7 kilometres after Imlili, watch out for a turn off to the right, into an asphalt road. It goes to CandelariaBeach which is another secluded place with a small military camp. Soon after the turn-off, on your left you will spot huge salt flats, so don’t hesitate to park the car at the roadside and walk around to take some pictures. On the right, you can climb the dunes for the magnificent ocean view.
Salt flats on the way to Candelaria BeachLong and empty Candelaria BeachSea turtle shell
Candelaria Beach was the southernmost point that I visited in Western Sahara. I saw plenty of tourists travelling towards the border with Mauretania in their campervans and it was tempting to do the same, even by hitchhiking. Hopefully one day I will be able to get to that country too!
Vang Vieng is a popular tourist town in Laos, located about 150 kilometres north of the capital, Vientiane. It’s known for its stunning natural landscapes, which include limestone karst hills, caves, and the Nam Song River.
The town is famous for its outdoor adventure opportunities, such as tubing, kayaking, rock climbing, and hiking. The river tubing experience, once notorious for its party scene, has been reformed to be more family-friendly and safer. The area is also home to numerous caves, such as Tham Phu Kham and Tham Chang, which are popular for exploration. Hot air balloon rides are available for those who want to see the landscape from above. You definitely won’t get bored here!
When to go?
The most popular time to visit Laos is between November and April, at least if you don’t like rain as it’s the dry season. However, nothing is as easy as it seems. You won’t get wet, but it’s the time of intense agricultural burnouts with dense haze hanging over the mountains and the air quality is regularly rated as unhealthy.
I traveled to Laos in March but next time I would go at the very beginning or the end of the rainy season, so in October or May. Getting a bit wet is certainly better than breathing in all that air pollution!
How to get there?
By train
Laos-China railway is the first railway network in Laos and it鈥檚 becoming increasingly popular as it connects the major cities and towns like Vientiane, Vang Vieng, Luang Prabang and Boten. The average travel duration on the route between Vientiane and Vang Vieng is about 1 hour. It鈥檚 advised to buy the train tickets in advance to secure your seats.
By road
Regular buses run from the Northern Bus Station (Khua Din Bus Station) in Vientiane to Vang Vieng. The journey typically takes about 4-5 hours and is the most economical option.
Minivans are a bit faster than buses, taking around 3-4 hours. They depart from various locations in Vientiane, including travel agencies and guesthouses. Minivans are more comfortable and often have air conditioning.
There are also regular buses from Luang Prabang, taking around 6-7 hours. The buses depart from the Southern Bus Station.
Similar to buses, minivans are available and offer a slightly faster journey, around 5-6 hours. They also provide more comfort and air conditioning.
By air
There are no direct flights to Vang Vieng, as it does not have an airport. Travellers can fly to Vientiane or Luang Prabang and then take a bus, minivan, or taxi to Vang Vieng.
I spent two nights in Saphaothong Guesthousewhich was a good choice. The room was spacious and there was a desk for working. The reception guy was very friendly and he organized a scooter for me, although its quality was far from optimal.
The room in Saphaothong Guesthouse
How long should you stay?
I would recommend a minimum of 2-3 days to cover the sights around Vang Vieng. The countryside around the town is gorgeous and there are so many caves, lagoons, mountains and villages to explore that you don’t want to be in a hurry.
The landscape around Vang Vieng
How to get around?
The town itself is small, and many attractions, restaurants, and accommodations are within walking distance. However, for attractions outside the town centre, you鈥檒l need another mode of transportation.
Bicycles can be rented from various guesthouses, hotels, and rental shops in town. They are fine to explore some nearby attractions like caves and blue lagoons but are definitely not suitable for longer distances or rough terrain.
Scooters provide flexibility to explore farther and at your own pace, especially in hot weather. Don’t forget that you need a driving licence, even if no one asks you for one during the renting process. Otherwise, you won’t be covered by your travel insurance. Roads can be rough and safety gear like helmets should always be used. Also, be prepared to get dirty as most of the roads around Vang Vieng are dirt ones and every time someone overtakes you, you will find yourself in a dirt cloud.
A dirt road through the countryside
If you don’t feel comfortable riding a scooter, tuk-tuks can be easily found in the town centre and around popular tourist spots. Can be more expensive than other options, and prices often need to be negotiated.
Another alternative is to rent a buggy, especially if travelling in a group, although it also isn’t the most budget-friendly option. Moreover, check the condition of the vehicle before you hit the road as some of them look like they are going to fall apart…
What to do in Vang Vieng?
Temples
There are a few interesting Buddhist temples in Vang Vieng town centre, e.g. Wat Si Sou Mang, Wat Kang, Wat Simixay Yaram or Wat That.
Tham Chang
The most accessible of the caves in the Vang Vieng area, within walking distance from the town. You have to climb about 150 steps to get to the cave entrance. The ticket costs 20.000 LAK and the cave is very easy to explore with pathways and lights. There are also some food vendors outside selling drinks and snacks.
The aerial view of Ban Namp猫 village
Blue Lagoon 1 and Phu Kham Cave
The busiest and most popular of the lagoons due to its proximity to Vang Vieng. There is a 5-meter jumping platform and some swings. It can get very crowded and noisy so for sure the place isn’t right for everyone, but the cave with the laying Buddha is impressive and worth exploring. You will most likely be completely alone there if you enter a bit deeper. It’s slippery inside, so bring good shoes and a flashlight is a must. You can rent some at the entrance of the cave.
Blue Lagoons 2, 3, 5
Vang Vieng is surely not short on natural springs. While some lagoons are more picturesque than others, there can be a large number of visitors, particularly at the busiest time of year. The majority of them have rope swings and jumping platforms. Besides popular Blue Lagoon 1, it’s worth visiting more distant but often less crowded lagoons numbered 2, 3 and 5. Blue Lagoon 5 is the most faraway one, however, you will ride through a very scenic village Ban Namp猫, which is a great experience in itself.
One of blue lagoonsThe aerial view of a small village near Vang Vieng
Vangvieng Inter Park and Nang Oua Khiam Cave
Nice place with a swimming area and plenty of shaded rest areas. The dinosaur statues are kitschy but nature is worth exploring. I highly recommend climbing up to the cave and the viewpoint. The way to the top is definitely not 30 meters as stated on the information board and it will take you about 20 – 30 minutes to reach the observation platform. The good point is that there are hardly any tourists visiting this viewpoint so most likely you will have it for yourself. If you want to check out the cave, bring your torch!
Spectacular view from the viewpoint at Vangvieng Inter Park
Nam Xay Viewpoint
A short but steep and sweaty hike will reward you with breathtaking 360-degree views of dramatic karst rock formations, verdant forests, and stretches of rural land and rice fields when reaching the summit. A wooden viewing deck is placed on top but feel free to explore the vista from all sides by moving around it over the rocks. Just below the summit, on both sides, are oddly positioned motorcycles, which you can sit on to get a fantastic picture!
The hike to the top takes about 30 minutes and the place can get crazily busy at sunset time.
Highly popular photo spot on Nam Xay ViewpointAerial view of Nam Xay Viewpoint
Phapoungkham Cave and Viewpoint
In my opinion, the best short hike and viewpoint in the Vang Vieng area. There鈥檚 a lot more to explore than just the viewpoint which makes it well worth the time and effort. You will see a cave, Buddha statues, and the aeroplane at the top. The entrance costs 20.000 LAK per person and it takes about 20-30 minutes to reach the top, mostly walking on slabs and rocks. Wear comfortable shoes. There was no one else besides me which added to the experience, especially after visiting a very busy Nam Xay Viewpoint.
Phapoungkham ViewpointPhapoungkham Viewpoint
Num Bor Keo Cave
If you’re searching for a more daring kind of cave exploring, Num Bor Keo Cave is a bit difficult to find, but well worth the effort. You will pay a 20.000 LAK entrance fee and they give you a small headlamp. The cave is more of a crawling and easy climbing experience. Sometimes you will notice yellow arrows that show you the way to go. It is a nice place to visit, but it is understandable why there are fewer tourists than in other caves in the Vang Vieng area.
Pha Ngern View Point
The physically demanding Pha Ngern hike is divided into two parts. Depending on your speed, it takes about 1 – 1,5 hours to get to the summit, with a stop at the first viewpoint on the way. Most of the trail is pretty steep so take your time and don’t forget water!
You will have to pay 10,000 LAK to enter the path. A small hut at the first viewpoint sells water, soft drinks and snacks. The views are magnificent and there was also a buggy placed on the rocks. Interesting trend to put these kinds of things on top of almost all viewpoints in Vang Vieng!
Pha Ngern View PointPha Ngern View Point
Angel Cave
A nice cave that is well lit up, and easy to walk across as there is a concrete path all the way through. You can find food and drinks right outside after you鈥檙e done with sightseeing.
Kaeng Nyui Waterfall
The place is to be visited in the wet season only, otherwise don’t expect any water. From the starting point to the waterfall is only a short walk. As of May 2024, the road to get there was under construction, so it will eventually be a really easy bike ride out there once the works are over.
Loup Cave
One of the best caves in Vang Vieng. If you travel on a scooter, you will have to pay a bridge toll of 5,000 LAK. After that, you arrive at a grassy field with a stand where you are charged 15,000 LAK to access one cave or 30,000 LAK for two of them. The caves are completely dark inside with no lights. You will be given a headlamp, but usually it isn’t very strong, so it’s better to have your own, more powerful one.
Tham Nam (Water Cave)
The most notable cave in the north of Vang Vieng. The 500-meter-long cave has an entrance from which a branch of the Nam Song flows. You can wade inside the cave during the dry season, but when the water is higher, you’ll need to borrow a tube and sit inside it, dragging yourself down the tunnel using the fixed rope. It was a truly unique experience!
Elephant Cave
There is not much to see except for the stone which resembles an elephant and a sleeping Buddha. You should be able to complete the tour in less than 5 minutes. You can stop here on the way to Tham Nam, otherwise don’t bother.
TCK Zipline
The place gets good reviews and I heard that ziplining there is incredible. The superb views and the friendly staff make the experience perfectly enjoyable.
Hot air balloon
A ride in a hot-air balloon is a lovely way to see the cliffs, tapestry of paddy fields and snaking river below. Departures are at sunrise and sunset and a 1-hour ride costs 100 – 150 USD. One of the most reputable operators is Above Laos.
Kota Kinabalu, often referred to as KK, is the capital of the state of Sabah in Malaysia. The town is surrounded by lush rainforests and is close to Mount Kinabalu, the highest peak in Malaysia.
Kota Kinabalu was known as Jesselton during the British colonial period. It was heavily bombed during World War II, leading to extensive rebuilding post-war. Today the city is a melting pot of cultures, including indigenous groups such as the Kadazan-Dusun, Bajau, and Murut, as well as Chinese, Malay, and other ethnicities. The city is also a gateway for oil and gas exploration in the region.
How to get to Kota Kinabalu?
By Air:
Some airlines operate international flights directly to Kota Kinabalu International Airport (BKI). If you are already in Malaysia, you can take a domestic flight from major cities such as Kuala Lumpur, Penang, or Johor Bahru.
By Land:
If you are travelling within Sabah, there are long-distance bus services that connect Kota Kinabalu with other towns and cities in Sabah. Major bus companies operate routes from Sandakan, Tawau, and other locations. Alternatively, you can drive to Kota Kinabalu from other parts of Sabah or Brunei and Sarawak in East Malaysia. Roads are generally in good condition, but it’s best to check current travel conditions.
Tunku Abdul Rahman Marine Park
When to go?
Kota Kinabalu and offshore islands can be visited the whole year, but the best time is between February and April, during the dry season. The weather during these months is generally more favourable with less rainfall, making it easier to enjoy outdoor activities.
How long should you stay?
2-3 days are enough to visit sights around the town and relax on the nearby islands or do some snorkelling.
Even though Kota Kinabalu is the biggest town in Sabah state, it’s still quite compact and easy to get around. The city centre can be explored on foot, while more distant places can be easily reached by taxi. Order one by using a popular mobile app – Grab.
What to see in Kota Kinabalu?
Atkinson Clock Tower
It’s the oldest wooden building still standing in Kota Kinabalu that survived the destruction of Jesselton during World War II.
Gaya Street Sunday Market
Gaya Street turns into a night market on Friday and Saturday from 5 PM to midnight and it’s an excellent place to try various local snacks and drinks. On Sunday morning, from 6 AM to 1 PM, it changes into a regular market selling plants, fruits, vegetables, clothing, antiques, etc.
Central Market
Tropical fruits, fresh vegetables, fish as well as seafood can be found here.
Night Food Market
From fresh seafood to traditional Malaysian dishes such as satay or laksa, every stall offers a unique taste experience. The market is usually very crowded and extremely hot, so get yourself ready. Don’t be shy to haggle on the price of seafood, it’s perfectly OK to do so.
Bandaraya Mosque
You have to cover up to enter and it’s possible to get clothes at the reception centre. The best is to avoid prayer time as you won’t be allowed inside. There is nothing special to see when it comes to the interior and they charge an entrance fee, which is ridiculous. You can easily take pictures of the mosque from the street outside, catching a nice reflection in the pond. That’s the best thing you can do here!
Kota Kinabalu
Taman Awam Teluk Likas
A long stretch of green park and beach along the coastline. Nice place to exercise and relax under the shade enjoying some sea breeze. I wouldn’t swim here though, as the water didn’t look clean.
Sabah State Mosque
The building’s gold accents shine bright and there is some nice greenery around. I wasn’t able to enter the building as it was prayer time.
Sabah State Museum
This museum offers a great introduction to Sabah’s indigenous cultures. Its exhibits include the traditional dress, embroidery, celebrations, rituals, crafts and musical instruments of the Dusun, Murut, Rungus, Bajau and other peoples of Sabah.
The ancient Chinese ceramics discovered in 2013 from the Jade Dragon wreck, which dates back to around AD 1300, are located upstairs. Additionally, the Heritage Village adjacent to the museum features traditional tribal dwellings such as Kadazan bamboo cottages and a Chinese farmhouse.
Sabah Islamic Civilization Museum
The museum presents the history of the spread of Islam in Southeast Asia including the roots of its arrival into Sabah and Malaysia as a whole. It features Islamic artefacts brought from the Middle East countries such as Turkey, Egypt, Iran, Morocco and India as well as local art from Sabah and neighbouring Sarawak and Brunei.
Tanjung Aru Beach
Nice spot to watch sunset with many food stalls nearby. Unfortunately, there is trash all around the place which is hard to ignore. The beach is about 10 – 15 minutes drive from the city centre.
Mari Mari Cultural Village
Mari Mari offers tours that highlight the many traditional residences of the numerous ethnic communities of the Sabahan, including the Bajau, Lundayeh, Murut, Rungus, and Dusun. You will have the opportunity to witness blowpipe construction, tattooing, fire starting, and an understanding of the mystical beliefs of each of these tribes in addition to sampling delicacies from each. Unfortunately, the samples are really microscopic! The visit also includes a buffet meal and a brief dancing performance. Overall, nice but very touristy experience and the guide was sometimes rushing with her explanations.
The morning session starts at 11 AM and the afternoon one at 2 PM. The ticket costs 130 RM for international tourists and 110 RM for Malaysians. You can order a taxi via Grab to get there.
Ulu Kionsom Waterfall
A popular spot for swimming and picnicking among locals, located within walking distance from Mari Mari Cultural Village. After buying a ticket, follow the cemented path with the sound of the rushing water increasing with every step.
To go to the last tier of the waterfall, you have to scramble up the forested slope. The rocks and roots can be very slippery so watch your steps and take a bottle of water.
The ticket costs 10 RM for foreigners and 3 RM for Malaysians.
Monsopiad Heritage Village
A good and less popular alternative to Mari Mari Cultural Village. This traditional village commemorates the life and time of the legendary Kadazan and head-hunter warrior Monsopiad. The schedule is quite typical: presentation of traditional food, medicine, firemaking and hunting techniques followed by music and dance performance. The morning session starts at 11 AM and the afternoon one at 2 PM.
Sabah Art Gallery
The most interesting part is the uniquely shaped building of the gallery. It costs 15 RM to enter for foreigners (compared to 5 RM for locals). The museum itself is extremely small and I was done in 15 minutes. There are some free exhibits outside, so stick to those and save yourself some money for a nice dinner.
Wetland Ramsar Site
A place with lots of potential where among mangroves you can see crabs, monitor lizards and various birds. Unfortunately, the amount of rubbish is overwhelming. The boardwalks are also in dire need of repair so mind your steps.
Puh Toh Si Chinese Temple
A serene and well-kept Chinese temple with a reclining Buddha resting inside. The temple is on a small hill near the highway.
Tunku Abdul Rahman Marine Park
Tunku Abdul Rahman Marine Park is a group of islands and their surrounding waters located off the coast of Kota Kinabalu. The marine park was established in 1974 and is named after Malaysia’s first Prime Minister. The park comprises five main islands: Gaya, Manukan, Mamutik, Sapi and Sulug.
How to get there?
Take a short boat ride from Jesselton Point Ferry Terminal, with services running regularly to the islands. The islands have various facilities, including accommodation options ranging from budget chalets to luxury resorts, as well as restaurants, restrooms, and picnic areas.
As of May 2024, you can visit Mamutik, Manukan and Sapi Islands. Gaya Island is off-limits for day-trippers. You can only go there if you are staying in one of the resorts on the island. There is a large community of illegal migrants from the Philippines which probably has something to do with that.
Boats depart from 8:30 AM and run every 30 minutes. Return time is between 12 PM – 4 PM. Once you reach the island, the tour operator will ask you at what time you would like to be picked up.
Tunku Abdul Rahman Marine Park
Prices
The price depends on the number of islands that you want to visit.
1 island: 35 RM per person
2 islands: 45 RM per person
3 islands: 55 RM per person
The national park entrance fee (25 RM) and terminal fee (9.20 RM) are added to the price.
Gear rental: fins, life jacket for snorkelling, snorkelling mask or beach mat can be rented for 10 RM each.
A day trip to 3 islands
First, we stopped at Manukan, where I had a walk to the other side of the island to the area called Sunset Point. I was trying to find a hiking trail through the jungle to get there and I did find it, but wearing sandals didn’t prove to be a good idea. Instead, I turned back and followed a concrete path. There were so many mosquitos that it was impossible to stop even for a second!
The sunset point wasn’t anything special and there was a lot of rubbish everywhere On the positive side, it was relatively quiet so I managed to fly a drone and take some aerial photos. Then I walked back to the beach and hung around there waiting for the boat to Mamutik Island.
Tunku Abdul Rahman Marine ParkTunku Abdul Rahman Marine Park
Mamutik is the smallest island in the park, with only one resort. I followed a short loop trail and then spent the rest of the time in the shadow of the trees or the warm waters of the South China Sea.
Then it was time for the last stop – Sapi Island, located just next to much bigger Gaya. Tiny place, where I spent most of the time just chilling in the water. Unfortunately, on the next day, I noticed that my legs were full of sandfly bites, so don’t forget the repellent!
Mount Kinabalu is the highest peak in Borneo, standing at 4,095 meters. It is located in the Malaysian state of Sabah and is part of the Kinabalu National Park, which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Mount Kinabalu is a granite massif formed about 10 million years ago. Over time, the mountain has been uplifted, and its distinctive jagged peaks have been sculpted by erosion and glaciation. The mountain is renowned for its rich biodiversity, with distinct vegetation zones ranging from lowland rainforests to alpine meadows. It is home to over 5,000 plant species, including the famous Rafflesia, the world’s largest flower, and numerous endemic orchid species. Kinabalu National Park was established in 1964 and became Malaysia’s first World Heritage Site in 2000.
Mount Kinabalu holds significant cultural and spiritual importance to the indigenous Kadazan-Dusun people, who believe that the mountain is the resting place of their ancestors’ spirits.
The first formal ascent of Mount Kinabalu was recorded in 1851 by Sir Hugh Low, the British colonial secretary on Labuan Island.
On June 5, 2015, an earthquake with a magnitude of 6.0 occurred in Ranau and lasted for 30 seconds. Since the Sabah earthquake in 1976, this was the strongest earthquake to strike Malaysia. There were eighteen confirmed deaths on Mount Kinabalu, comprising six Malaysians, two Chinese, and ten Singaporeans. After becoming stranded on the mountain, about 137 climbers were eventually rescued.
How do you get to Kundasang?
Kundasang is about a 2-hour drive from Kota Kinabalu, the capital of Sabah. You can rent a car at Hikmah Rental & Tours. Excellent contact on WhatsApp and unproblematic rental experience at a good price. The drive offers scenic views of the mountains and countryside.
Shared taxis depart from Merdeka Square in Kota Kinabalu when full. You will pay about 40 RM for a seat and the driver can drop you off at the entrance to Kinabalu National Park.
If you decide to do the hike with a travel agency, transportation by minivan will be included.
Mount Kinabalu
When to go?
The best time to climb Mount Kinabalu is generally during the dry season, which runs from March to September. There is less chance of rain, which makes the trails safer and the views clearer. The summit can be very cold at any time of the year, especially during the early morning hours when climbers aim to reach the peak for sunrise.
Bookings, permits and guides
Let me start by saying that climbing Mount Kinabalu isn’t cheap.
Several operators organize tours to the islands, but the most popular seems to be Borneo Calling. The price of a 2D1N budget hike is 1750 RM for international tourists and 1350 RM for Malaysians. They will organize everything for you: accommodation (Panalaban Hostel or Lemaing Hut), permits and guides.
If you decide to organize your hike independently, you will pay about 1600 RM for accommodation at Laban Rata. On top of that, there is an entrance ticket to Kinabalu National Park (50 RM), a hiking permit (400 RM) and a mountain guide (350 RM). If you arrive at the registration office early enough, you may be lucky to find other people to share the cost of the mountain guide with (max. 5 hikers per 1 guide).
Regardless of the option that you choose, remember that the number of permits is limited and despite the costs, it is a highly popular hike. Therefore, you must book your tour or secure a bed in a hostel a few weeks, or even months in advance.
How long is the hike?
The round trip to the summit of Mount Kinabalu is approximately 17.4 kilometres, typically takes two days and involves two main stages:
Day 1: Trailhead to Laban Rata
Approximately 6 kilometres, 4 to 6 hours with an elevation gain of about 1.400 meters. Hikers usually take a minibus to the Timpohon Gate and start hiking from there, following a well-marked trail through diverse vegetation zones, ranging from tropical rainforest to alpine meadows. The trail is steep and involves many steps. Hikers stay overnight at Laban Rata or one of the other Sutera Lodges Accommodation sites.
Day 2: Laban Rata to summit and back to the trailhead
Approximately 2.7 kilometres to the summit, plus 8.7 kilometres return to the trailhead. It takes between 2 to 4 hours to reach the summit and 4 to 6 hours for the descent. Elevation gain is about 822 meters from Laban Rata to the summit. Hikers usually begin the final ascent around 2 AM to reach the summit for sunrise. The last part of the climb involves steep granite slabs and ropes to assist in the ascent. After reaching the summit, hikers descend back to Laban Rata for breakfast before continuing the descent to the Timpohon Gate.
There is an option to spend an extra night in Laban Rata after the descent from the summit, but it will significantly increase the already high costs of the hike.
There are rest shelters with basic toilets at regular intervals.
Clouds usually roll in after 10 AM
What to pack?
Pack appropriate clothing and gear, including warm layers, waterproof clothing, and sturdy hiking boots. Overall, while the dry season offers the best conditions for climbing, careful planning and preparation can make your climb enjoyable and successful at any time of the year. Here is the list of some essentials:
Fleece or insulated jackets
Waterproof and windproof jacket and pants.
Comfortable and quick-drying pants.
T-shirts
Warm hat and gloves
Socks
Hiking Boots
Backpack (30-40 litres) with a rain cover.
Headlamp
Trekking Poles
Water Bottle or Hydration Bladder
Sunglasses
Sunhat and sunscreen
Camera or smartphone
Climbing permit and ID
Cash
First aid kit
Snacks
Insect repellent
Towel
Optional: power bank (there is an option to charge the devices in Laban Rata)
If you feel that you took too much and there are things you don’t need, leave them in the room at Laban Rata and pick them up on the way back. You don’t want to wear a heavy backpack on the summit push in the night!
Where to stay?
If you go on a hike with a travel agent, they will pick you up in the morning from the hotel in Kota Kinabalu. I based myself there for a few days and can recommend three places: ATAP Hotel, Hotel Tourist by HotSpot Essential and Akinabalu Youth Hostel. All of them were affordable and offered a nice and clean private room.
If you travel to Kundasang independently, I would suggest arriving one day before the hike, to avoid unnecessary rush and morning stress that you won’t make it before 10:30 AM which is the cut-off time to start the hike at Timpohon Gate. I spent the night at Happy Garden, which is a no-frills hostel with a restaurant on-site. It’s within walking distance to the entrance of Kinabalu National Park so you won’t need any further transport in the morning.
Wildlife on the trail 馃檪
2D 1N itinerary
Day 1: Timpohon Gate – Laban Rata
I woke up at about 7 AM and had a quick breakfast in the nearby restaurant. Spending the night at Happy Garden meant that I was only 20 20-minute walk away from Kinabalu Park Headquarters.
After arriving at the registration center I quickly succeeded in finding a group of 3 other hikers to share the costs of the guide with. Then, we got our permits, picked up a packed lunch and got ready for departure. The guide was an older man but he spoke quite good English.
To get to the beginning of the trail at Timpohon Gate, we took a minibus. Then, we had a safety briefing and our guide told us that we were a group but if someone wanted to go faster, there was no need to wait for others. Well, fair enough, although in such a case I have no idea why the guide is mandatory at all.
It was exactly as my guide said. Our group soon split and I reached Laban Rata by myself, while the guide simply followed the slower person.
Beginning of the trailOn the trail
Shortly after the beginning of the trail I passed Carson’s Falls and made my way uphill through the beautiful forest. More or less at the halfway to Laban Rata, I made a break for a packed lunch. In the box, there was some fried chicken with veggies. Not particularly delicious but fine enough. The weather was getting worse with more and more fog rolling over the slopes and for a short moment, it was even drizzling. The trail was still forested but soon it changed into a subalpine meadow.
Upon arrival at Laban Rata Resthouse, I got a key to the 4-person dormitory and quickly changed my clothes to the dry set. I didn’t take a shower as the water was freezing cold. Keep that in mind 馃檪 After spending some time in the common room, the rest of my group was still not there so I simply took a nap. I felt cold, even though I was wearing my warm puffer jacket from Nepal. Quite strange. Also, even though I felt very tired, I couldn’t fall asleep. It made me a bit worried.
The higher you get, the foggier it becomesLaban Rata Resthouse
Was it because of the altitude? Laban Rata is located at 3,272 metres above sea level, so some people may experience some discomfort. When the rest of my group finally arrived at the dormitory, it was time to get dinner. The problem was that I had zero appetite and only had some sweet jelly for dessert and drank two cups of tea.
After dinner, I preventively took some pills just to make sure that I would be in good shape in the morning. Unfortunately, I still couldn’t sleep at night.
The meal schedule in Laban Rata is as follows:
Dinner: 4:30 PM until 7 PM
Supper: 2 AM until 3:30 AM
Breakfast: 7:30 AM until 10:30 AM
All the meals are served in the form of a buffet.
Electricity is on from 4 PM to 10 OM and from 1 AM to 3:30 AM.
Day 2: Laban Rata – Summit – Timpohon Gate
The second day started with waking up at 2 AM and having a quick breakfast. I wasn’t too hungry but I had to force myself to eat as I felt I needed some calories. We departed at 2:30 AM. Most of the people left at the same time so there was quite a traffic jam at the stairs. The two women from my group stayed behind already at the very beginning and we waited for a while but there was no sign of them. Later we found out that they had turned back. Did they also experience the same health discomfort as me?
I was going up mostly following the stairs. Then the section with steep granite slabs and the line started. There was no vegetation around. The line was just for assecuration, rather than pulling myself up. I was getting weaker and slower as my body didn’t want to continue that adventure. I was struggling both mentally and physically. I made frequent breaks to catch my breath or even sit down for a while. I think it was a nasty combination of altitude impact as well as stomach issues.
The section with the ropeThe section with the rope
I was fighting my way up while the sunrise was getting closer and closer. I could already see the summit but still, it looked quite far away. The last section was really steep and involved some easy scrambling on the rocks.
Finally, I reached the top! The other guy from my group arrived shortly after me. Then, even our guide showed up! We took some pictures with the board showing the name of the mountain and started the descent. It was the last time when I saw the two guys from my group. The way down was certainly much easier and I started taking off layers of my clothes as the sun was quickly warming me up. While looking back, I was impressed that I climbed up all that way in the darkness.
Sunrise at Mount Kinabalu
After reaching Laban Rata, I had a small breakfast with French toast and some fried potatoes. I also met the two women from my group and they confirmed that they turned back as one of them didn’t feel good. I think they expected a way easier adventure climb, the same as me. But Mount Kinabalu isn’t that easy after all!
The remaining distance down to Timpohon Gate was a real pain in the *ss. My knees were done as the total elevation drop was over 2.000 meters! Adding to that, the path was steep and full of rocks and stones. With two breaks en route, I finally made it to the Timpohon Gate and I bought a coke and mineral water there. A minibus was waiting to take hikers back to the Kinabalu Park Headquarters but the driver said we needed to wait for more people to join. We had been waiting for about half an hour and the group of 4 hikers arrived. Once we were on the way to the parking, heavy rain started. What a timing!
Descending from Mount Kinabalu
At the Kinabalu Park Headquarters, I asked about transport options back to KK but they could only offer a private shuttle for 250 RM. It was way too much! I waited a bit for the rain to stop and then walked towards the roadside to try to flag down some minibus. I had been waiting for about 15 minutes when I noticed the first minibus heading in my direction. It was full but shortly after another stopped and then I jumped on board.
Alternative descent: Via Ferrata
Once booked a tour, you can also opt for the itinerary including via ferrata on the descent. Situated on the Panalaban rock face of Mount Kinabalu, Mountain Torq is the highest via ferrata in the world and the first via ferrata in Asia.
Walk the Torq and Low’s Peak Circuit are the two Via Ferrata itineraries that are offered. Climbers with no prior professional mountaineering experience can enjoy the activity on both routes.
Was it worth it?
All in all, it is a great, scenic and challenging hike. But is it worth the price? In my opinion, it isn’t. Before arriving in Borneo, I spent one month in Nepal. The amount of money that I paid for the 2D1N hike to the Kinabalu summit would probably keep me going for over a week or even more in the Himalayas, with definitely much more spectacular views. There are no alternatives to Sutera Sanctuary Lodges which use their monopoly to charge excessively for literally everything, but the quality is just average.
What else to do around Kundasang?
Kinabalu National Park
There are several shorter trails in the park that you can combine into one loop and hike without a guide. From the main entrance, join the Liwagu Trail and then turn left onto Mempening Trail. Follow it until you reach an asphalt road. Then, to come back to the main entrance, join Kiau View Trail or Silau Silau Trail. Kiau Gap View Point is an excellent place in clear weather, so arrive here very early in the morning.
As of May 2024, Liwagu Trail was closed after the crossroad with Mempening Trail.
There is also the mountain garden which is open from 9 AM to 4 PM every day. Visitors can visit the garden and roam by themself at any time during the opening hours, however, guided tours with Sabah Park’s interpretation guide are scheduled at 9 AM, 12 PM and 3 PM.
Aki Aki Trail
The 3.3 km trail with proper facilities such as staircases and platforms with a view of the majestic Mount Kinabalu. However, it goes through private property and you need to hire a guide. I have seen some reports from people saying that they were quoted over 200 RM, which is totally ridiculous and sounds like a scam.
Kundasang War Memorial
It honours the British and Australian detainees who lost their lives during the infamous Sandakan Death Marches and at the Sandakan and Ranau POW camps as well as Borneo natives who lost their lives helping them.
Quite a pity that even in a place like this, there is a double pricing for Malaysians and foreigners.
Maragang Hill
The Maragang Hill, which is 2,232 metres above sea level, was opened to the public in 2017. Hikers can choose from different packages, such as sunrise hikes (3 AM) and regular hikes (6 AM) on the conventional or loop trail. The regular trail takes roughly 3-4 hours to finish on average. I opted for a regular 6 AM version and arrived on time at the meeting point. The guide was late for about 20 minutes and I was slowly getting annoyed because I was aware that shortly after sunrise, Mount Kinabalu could be covered in clouds. Finally, when the guide arrived, we jumped inside a pick-up truck and were taken higher up the road to the trailhead. Having a guide on this trail was ridiculous as it was very easy to follow and the guy was simply walking behind me smoking cigarettes all the way.
After about an hour or so we arrived at the top and the views were great. Mount Kinabalu from that perspective looked simply breathtaking. I flew a drone around and took some nice aerial pictures before we started our descent. I was pretty much overtaking all locals on the trail as they were walking so damn slowly.
The guide can be booked via WhatsApp. Phone numbers are available on the website HERE. As of May 2024, the price is 155 RM if you are going solo.
Maragang HillThe view from Maragang Hill
Sosodikon Hill
Good and both cheaper and easier alternative to Maragang Hill. The entrance ticket costs 10 RM per person for foreigners. It is a very short 1 km return trail with spectacular views of Mount Kinabalu on a clear day. Come early in the morning!
Aerial view os Sosodikon Hill
Last POW Camp Memorial
The Japanese occupiers of Sabah in 1945 forced 641 British and 1793 Australian prisoners of war to march from Sandakan to Ranau. Only six people made it out alive by hiding and getting looked after by locals. The rest died as a result of disease, arduous labour, unfavourable living conditions, or were slain by their captors. The 183 men who perished at this final camp, which was located next to a bend in the Kagibangan River that can be seen below, are listed on the memorial stone. The place is located 6 km away from Ranau.
Poring Hot Spring
The site is made up of about a dozen little pools that are heated by sulfurous water that emerges from an underground spring. The best thing that adventurous people can do here is the hike to Langanan Waterfall, which takes about 2 hours one way. Make sure that you start the hike before noon, as later the entry isn’t allowed.
Another nice activity is climbing up to the canopy walkway, suspended from trees and reaching up to 40 meters above the jungle floor, offering breathtaking views of the surrounding forest.
There is also a butterfly and orchid garden. The problem is that the ticket price to the park is quite steep: 50 RM for foreigners and then you need to pay extra for each activity inside, such as hot springs or canopy walkway (10 RM). The business model of a tourist trap!
Mahua Waterfall
The waterfall is located about 500 meters from the entrance. The water is cold and clear. The entry costs 20 RM for adult foreigners and RM12 for children. There is a BBQ area, tables and chairs. It’s about 1-hour drive following route 500 from Ranau.
