Introduction

Tena is a small but lively city surrounded by lush rainforest, winding rivers and green hills. It is one of the most accessible starting points for exploring the country’s eastern lowlands. Located at the confluence of the Tena and Pano rivers, the city offers a fascinating mix of urban life, Indigenous traditions and extraordinary natural surroundings.

While the country’s Andean highlands are known for their dramatic volcanoes and colonial towns, the Amazon region offers a completely different atmosphere. Here, warm and humid weather, dense vegetation, colourful wildlife and powerful rivers shape everyday life. Visitors can explore nearby waterfalls, go rafting or kayaking, discover jungle trails, visit Indigenous communities or simply enjoy the slower pace of life.

A Brief History of Tena

Long before Tena became an important town in Ecuador’s Amazon region, the surrounding territory was home to Indigenous communities, particularly the Quijos, who had developed their own traditions, social structures and deep knowledge of the rainforest. Their lives were closely connected to the rivers and forests, which provided food, transportation, medicine and materials for everyday life.

The arrival of Spanish explorers in the 16th century dramatically changed the region. Attracted by rumours of gold, cinnamon and other valuable resources, Spanish expeditions pushed eastwards from the Andes in search of wealth and new territories. The wider Quijos region became an important area of colonial expansion, although the difficult geography and determined resistance of its Indigenous inhabitants made Spanish control far from straightforward.

The colonial period was marked by conflict, exploitation and attempts to impose new religious and administrative structures. Indigenous communities resisted Spanish rule on several occasions, with a major uprising in 1578 leading to the destruction of several Spanish settlements in the region. Many Indigenous inhabitants withdrew further into the forest, while others gradually adapted to the changing circumstances. Over time, the Kichwa identity and language became increasingly prominent among local communities.

The origins of modern Tena are somewhat more complicated than its traditional founding date suggests. The city officially celebrates 15 November 1560 as its foundation day, traditionally associating its establishment with Spanish colonial expansion. However, the exact circumstances of its founding remain historically disputed, and there is no conclusive evidence establishing that date as the beginning of the present-day settlement.

Tena’s development into a more established settlement took place much later. Around the turn of the 20th century, the area began to experience more significant changes, with new settlers arriving and religious missions playing an important role in education and the organisation of local communities. The arrival of the Josephite missionaries in 1922 further contributed to the town’s development.

An important administrative milestone came in 1959, when Napo became a separate province with Tena as its capital. The town subsequently became an increasingly important centre for government, trade and transportation in the central northern Amazon. Later developments, particularly the expansion of road connections and the discovery of oil in the wider Amazon region during the second half of the 20th century, brought further migration and economic change.

How to get to Tena?

From Quito to Tena

The easiest and most affordable way to reach Tena is by public bus.

Several bus companies operate this route, including Flota Pelileo, Cooperativa Amazonas and Cooperativa Baños. There are multiple daily departures, although schedules can change, so it is worth checking at the Quitumbe Terminal before travelling.

The route passes through the Papallacta area and Baeza before continuing towards the Amazon lowlands. Along the way, you will notice a dramatic change in scenery, from the cool Andean páramo to increasingly dense vegetation and warmer tropical landscapes.

The descent towards the Amazon is one of the most scenic parts of the journey, so try to get a window seat.

From Baños to Tena

If you are travelling from Baños, reaching Tena is even easier. Buses connect the two destinations, with the journey taking approximately 3–4 hours, depending on the service and road conditions.

From Guayaquil to Tena

Travelling from Guayaquil takes considerably longer. The journey covers approximately 480 km and usually takes around 10–11 hours by bus. Direct connections may be available, but it is worth checking the schedule in advance.

Can You Fly to Tena?

Tena has an airport, but it is not currently served by regular commercial passenger flights. For most independent travellers, travelling by bus or private vehicle is therefore the most practical option.

Getting Around Tena

Once you arrive, getting around the city is relatively easy. Taxis are inexpensive and useful for reaching accommodation or attractions outside the town centre. For nearby destinations such as Puerto Misahuallí, you can also use local buses departing from Tena’s main bus terminal.

Where to stay in Tena?

If you are travelling on a budget, I recommend Hostal Limoncocha. It offers good value for money, with clean, comfortable rooms and access to a shared kitchen, which is especially useful if you prefer to prepare some of your own meals.

It also has laundry facilities, making it a practical choice for travellers on longer trips. One of its nicest features is the panoramic view from the upper floor, where you can enjoy a different perspective of Tena and its green surroundings.

What to see around Tena?

Mercado Artesanal de Comidas Típicas y Artesanías

If you want to experience local Amazonian cuisine, this traditional food market is a good place to start. It brings together several food stalls serving regional dishes, making it an interesting stop for anyone curious about the culinary traditions of the Napo region.

Look out for maito, a traditional Amazonian preparation in which fish is wrapped in bijao leaves and cooked over a fire. You may also come across local ingredients, tropical fruits and other regional specialities. The market also offers handicrafts, allowing you to browse locally made souvenirs.

Parque Amazónico La Isla

One of the easiest ways to experience Amazonian nature without leaving the city is to visit Parque Amazónico La Isla. The park occupies a natural peninsula surrounded by the Pano and Tena rivers. It offers walking trails through tropical vegetation, with opportunities to learn about native plants, medicinal trees and the wildlife found in this part of Ecuador.

However, there is something worth mentioning before your visit: safety concerns have been reported in the park and its surrounding areas. Local media reported a theft of equipment from one of the park’s offices in 2022, while visitor accounts have also raised concerns about robberies along some of the more secluded forest trails.

For this reason, I would recommend visiting during daylight hours, avoiding isolated sections of the park and not carrying unnecessary valuables. It may also be worth checking with local authorities or your accommodation about current conditions before heading there.

Tena Observation Deck

From an elevated viewpoint, you can admire the rooftops of Tena, the surrounding green hills and the seemingly endless vegetation stretching towards the rainforest. It is particularly appealing for photography, especially when the weather is clear.

Malecón Escénico de Tena

It is a pleasant place for an afternoon walk, with landscaped areas, pedestrian paths, viewpoints and places to sit and enjoy the surroundings. There are also restaurants, cafés and small shops nearby.

The atmosphere becomes particularly enjoyable in the evening, when the temperatures drop, and locals come out to socialise. The illuminated riverside areas and pedestrian bridge also make for some nice photographs.

Tena Central Park

Like many traditional Ecuadorian towns, Tena has a central square that serves as a meeting point for residents. You can take a short walk, relax on a bench and observe the daily rhythm of the city.

The park is also conveniently located near the cathedral and other central streets, making it an easy stop during a walking tour of Tena.

Cavernas de Jumandy

Located near Archidona, approximately 20–30 minutes north of Tena, the Jumandy Caves are among the most interesting natural attractions in the area. This underground cave system features impressive rock formations, flowing water and dark passages that make exploring it a little adventure in the heart of the Ecuadorian Amazon.

Getting there by public transport is relatively easy. We took a bus from Tena and got off along the main road, from where it was just a short walk to the caves’ reception area. As there were no other visitors interested in joining us, we opted for a private tour. After paying the entrance fee, we changed into more suitable clothes, put on rubber shoes provided for the visit and met our guide, who was ready to take us underground.

The entrance to Jumandy Caves costs approximately 5.50 USD per person, including a guided cave tour. If you cannot form a bigger group, then you will need to pay 20 USD for a private tour (1-3 people). Rubber boot rental is an extra 1 USD.

The adventure started almost immediately, as we had to walk through water from the very beginning. Fortunately, it never got higher than waist level, although navigating some of the passages required a little effort. At one point, we had to grab a rope and pull ourselves across to the other side, which made the experience feel more like a proper adventure than an ordinary sightseeing tour!

Along the way, we also entered a particularly narrow passage to admire some of the cave’s natural rock formations. The surroundings were dark, humid and quite atmospheric, with the sound of flowing water accompanying us throughout the walk.

One of the highlights was reaching a larger underground waterfall. You can stand underneath it and enjoy what our guide described as a kind of natural massage.

Just when we thought we had seen everything, we encountered perhaps the most unexpected sight of the entire visit. At the far end of the cave, we spotted a little girl, who seemed completely out of place in the dark underground surroundings. It turned out to be our guide’s daughter, who had apparently made her way there all by herself, dressed in a rather fancy outfit. She was probably around ten years old. Definitely not something you see every day!

After exploring the cave, we came back to the entrance, changed our clothes and got ready to leave. We walked back to the main road, where, luckily, a bus arrived just a few minutes later.

El Gran Cañón de Cotundo

If you enjoy natural swimming spots and unusual landscapes, El Gran Cañón de Cotundo is well worth a visit. Located a bit further north than Jumandy Caves, this natural attraction is formed around the meeting of the Jondachi and Ñachiyacu rivers.

The water has carved its way through the surrounding rock, creating a narrow canyon with natural pools and beautiful rainforest scenery. One of its most interesting features is a small waterfall inside a cave, where adventurous visitors can experience a jump into the water from a designated spot.

There are two access points leading to the canyon, and we decided to take the one located at the very end of the dirt road. Once you’ve finished exploring, I highly recommend trying the local maito – it was hands down the best we tasted anywhere in Ecuador!

Laguna Azul

Located in the community of Alukus, in the rural parish of Talag, this beautiful natural swimming area is approximately 20–25 km from Tena. It is formed by several crystal-clear pools created by water flowing between impressive natural rock formations.

The striking blue-green colour of the water is what gives the place its name. You can spend time swimming, relaxing beside the pools or exploring the surrounding vegetation. There are also small waterfalls and natural rock slides that add to the experience.

The attraction is managed by the local Kichwa community, making it an interesting example of community-based tourism in the Ecuadorian Amazon. Local food is also available.

Puerto Misahualli

Located approximately 30 minutes from Tena, Puerto Misahuallí is a small riverside village and one of the most popular destinations in the surrounding Amazon region.

The village sits on the banks of the Napo River and is particularly famous for its sandy river beach and the capuchin monkeys that roam freely around the main square. These curious animals have become one of the area’s biggest attractions, although it is important not to feed or touch them.

There is more to Misahuallí than monkeys, however. You can take a motorised canoe along the Napo River, visit nearby Indigenous communities, explore jungle trails or simply relax by the water.

Personally, I think Misahualli deserves at least one day, although you could easily spend even more time exploring the area.

Have a look at my travel guide dedicated to Puerto Misahualli HERE.

Introduction

Situated on the banks of the Napo River, approximately 24 km east of Tena, Puerto Misahuallí is a small riverside settlement in Ecuador’s Napo Province. Surrounded by dense tropical vegetation, winding waterways and abundant wildlife, it is one of the most accessible places to experience the Ecuadorian Amazon. Despite its relatively small size, Misahuallí has become an important destination for travellers looking to explore the rainforest, discover Indigenous cultures and enjoy outdoor activities away from the country’s larger cities.

The village is particularly famous for its sandy river beach, where capuchin monkeys can often be seen roaming freely among the trees. Small motorised canoes depart from the riverbank, taking visitors further into the Amazon along the Napo River, towards remote communities, forest trails and natural attractions.

A Brief History of Puerto Misahuallí

Long before Misahuallí developed into a tourist destination, the surrounding territory was inhabited by Indigenous communities with deep connections to the Amazon rainforest. Napo Kichwa families, among others, have lived in this region for generations, relying on agriculture, fishing, hunting and the resources provided by the forest. The wider area also has a complex history involving other Indigenous peoples, including the Waorani, whose ancestral territories extend across parts of the Ecuadorian Amazon.

The development of the modern settlement accelerated during the 1940s, particularly following the 1941 conflict between Ecuador and Peru. People living along the Napo River sought refuge in the area, contributing to the growth of a small riverside community. At the time, the river was one of the most important transport routes in the region, connecting settlements and allowing goods and passengers to move through the Amazon.

For many years, Misahuallí functioned primarily as a commercial river port. Canoes and other riverboats played an essential role in transporting agricultural products, supplies and people between communities. Its strategic position near the meeting point of the Misahuallí and Napo rivers made it a natural centre for trade and movement.

A significant change came in 1966, when the road connecting Puerto Napo with Misahuallí was opened. The arrival of road transport, together with increasing oil exploration and settlement in the Amazon, encouraged further development. More people moved into the area, and the small river port gradually became a more established community.

On 30 April 1969, Puerto Misahuallí officially received the status of a rural parish within Tena Canton. This date remains an important part of its local identity, with celebrations traditionally taking place around the beginning of May.

Over the following decades, tourism gradually became an increasingly important part of the local economy. The natural attractions of the Napo River, nearby rainforest and Indigenous communities began attracting visitors interested in exploring the Amazon. Residents increasingly became involved in organising canoe trips, guiding forest excursions and developing community-based tourism experiences.

How to get to Puerto Misahualli?

Most travellers arrive through Tena, which serves as the main transport hub for exploring this part of the Amazon. From there, reaching Misahuallí is straightforward and takes less than an hour.

From Quito to Puerto Misahuallí

The distance between Quito and Puerto Misahuallí is approximately 215–220 km, depending on the route. Travelling by car usually takes around 4–5 hours, although road conditions, traffic and weather can affect the journey.

The most common route follows the eastern highway through Pifo, Papallacta, Baeza, Archidona and Tena before continuing towards Puerto Misahuallí.

The drive is particularly scenic, as the landscape gradually changes from the Andean highlands and mountain passes to the warmer, greener environment of the Amazon foothills.

If you are travelling by public transport, the easiest option is to take an interprovincial bus from Terminal Terrestre Quitumbe in Quito to Tena. Several companies operate this route, including Flota Pelileo, Transportes Baños, Expreso Baños and Amazonas.

The journey generally takes around 5–6 hours. Once in Tena, you can transfer to a local bus heading to Puerto Misahuallí.

From Tena to Puerto Misahuallí

Getting to Puerto Misahuallí from Tena is very easy. The two settlements are connected by a paved road, and the journey takes approximately 30–45 minutes.

Local buses operated by Cooperativa Jumandy and Cooperativa Centinela del Tena connect the two destinations throughout the day. Services generally depart from the bus terminal in Tena, making this the cheapest and most convenient option for independent travellers.

You can also take a taxi or a shared pickup truck if you prefer a faster and more flexible journey.

From Baños to Puerto Misahuallí

If you are travelling from Baños, you can reach Puerto Misahuallí by following the road towards Puyo and continuing through the Amazon lowlands towards Tena.

The distance is approximately 150 km, and the journey usually takes around 3–4 hours by car, depending on traffic and road conditions.

By public transport, you will generally need to travel from Baños to Tena, sometimes changing buses in Puyo, before taking another local bus to Misahuallí.

From Puyo to Puerto Misahuallí

Travelling from Puyo to Puerto Misahuallí is another convenient option if you are already exploring Pastaza Province.

The distance is approximately 100 km, and driving generally takes around 2–2.5 hours. The route follows the Amazonian highway through the area of Puerto Napo before continuing towards Tena and Misahuallí.

There are also interprovincial buses connecting Puyo and Tena. From Tena, you can take a local bus for the final section of the journey.

Travelling by Car

Having your own vehicle gives you more flexibility when exploring the region around Puerto Misahuallí. The roads connecting Quito, Tena and Misahuallí are generally accessible by regular cars, although heavy rainfall can occasionally affect driving conditions.

If you have extra time, consider stopping in Papallacta, Baeza or Archidona along the way. These destinations offer opportunities to enjoy mountain scenery, hot springs and smaller towns before reaching the Amazon rainforest.

Where to stay in Puerto Misahualli?

I stayed at Hostal Albergue Español, and it turned out to be a pleasant surprise. We actually received a much bigger room than the one we had originally booked. Although we were travelling as a couple, our room had one double bed and two additional bunk beds, giving us plenty of extra space.

The room was clean and comfortable, making it a perfectly good place to stay while exploring Puerto Misahuallí. The hostel also serves breakfast for an additional US$5 per person, which is a convenient option if you prefer to start your day without looking for a restaurant.

One unexpected encounter happened late at night when we spotted a tarantula walking along the pavement right in front of the hostel! It was a memorable reminder that we were staying in the middle of the Amazon region. If you are not particularly fond of spiders, keep your eyes open when walking around after dark!

What to see around Puerto Misahualli?

Playa de los Monos

Located right next to the main riverside area, this sandy beach sits close to the confluence of the Napo and Misahuallí rivers. It is particularly famous for the capuchin monkeys that inhabit the surrounding trees and frequently come down towards the beach.

Watching these small primates moving between branches and exploring the area can be entertaining, especially if you have never seen wild monkeys before. The beach itself is also a pleasant place to relax, enjoy the river scenery or watch the motorised canoes arriving and departing.

However, remember that these are wild animals. Avoid feeding them, offering snacks or trying to touch them. Human food can negatively affect their behaviour and health.

If you visit early in the morning or towards the end of the afternoon, you may find the atmosphere particularly enjoyable, with fewer visitors and more opportunities to observe the surrounding wildlife.

Cascada de Latas

The attraction is reached through a tropical forest trail that follows the Umbuni River. Rather than simply walking to a single viewpoint, the experience involves exploring several waterfalls, natural pools and rock formations along the watercourse.

The route includes three main water drops, with sections forming natural slides where visitors can enjoy the refreshing water. The surrounding vegetation creates a beautiful rainforest atmosphere, and the walk itself is part of the adventure.

We took a bus heading to Tena and asked to be dropped at the trailhead. We followed the sign and paid 2 USD per person for access. Quite a pity, because we later discovered that if we had taken another path further to the right side of the bridge, we could have reached the waterfall without paying the entrance fee. Luckily, nobody was waiting further along the trail to charge us an additional US$1, which apparently sometimes happens!

Allow approximately 40 minutes for the approach, although the overall visit can take around two hours if you want to explore and enjoy the pools.

Despite this slightly confusing entrance situation, the waterfall itself was beautiful, and the visit was definitely worthwhile. We had the entire place to ourselves, which made the experience even better. The final section involved climbing over some larger rocks, but nothing particularly difficult if you are reasonably comfortable walking on uneven terrain.

On the way back, we followed a different trail that stayed to the left of the river. I managed to slip and land on my backside at one point, but fortunately, we made it safely back to the main road. After waiting for a while, we eventually caught a bus back to Misahuallí.

The rocks can be extremely slippery, so wear shoes with good grip. Bring swimwear, a towel and a waterproof bag for your belongings.

Ceibo Gigante

Located in the community of Punuño, a short distance from Puerto Misahuallí, this enormous ceibo tree is one of the area’s most impressive natural landmarks. You can easily get a taxi to get there.

Ceibo trees are characteristic of tropical environments and are known for their enormous trunks, spreading branches and distinctive root systems. This particular specimen is remarkable for its size and age, with local estimates suggesting that it has been growing for several centuries.

Standing next to the massive trunk gives you a different perspective on the scale of the Amazon rainforest. Its extensive roots and enormous canopy also provide a habitat for numerous smaller organisms, birds and insects.

While exploring the area, we spotted a sign pointing towards a trail leading down to the river. Naturally, we decided to follow it. The path took us through the forest, with me walking in front and using a stick to clear the spiderwebs along the way. After reaching the river, we decided not to turn back but to continue along the trail and complete the loop.

We eventually came across a tiny waterfall and decided to push a little further, following the trail all the way towards a nearby village. From there, we managed to catch a boat across the river to Puerto Misahualli.

Comunidad Shiripuno

This community is associated with the Kichwa people and offers visitors an opportunity to learn more about their traditions, everyday life and relationship with the surrounding rainforest.

Community-based tourism activities may include traditional dances, music, handicraft demonstrations, local food and guided walks through the surrounding vegetation.

You can also learn about the traditional use of Amazonian plants, the preparation of cassava-based drinks such as chicha and the importance of natural materials in local crafts.

Laguna Paikawe

Located just across the Napo River, the lagoon forms part of a privately protected natural area surrounded by tropical vegetation and patches of primary rainforest.

The main activity here is a guided canoe trip through the calm waters, where you can explore the vegetation and observe the animals living around the lagoon.

Depending on the season and conditions, you may spot different bird species, including the unusual hoatzin, as well as monkeys and other wildlife. The reserve is also known for its large paiche fish, which can grow to impressive sizes.

Another interesting option is to arrange an early morning or evening excursion, when different animals become active and the atmosphere of the rainforest changes.

The canoes to the other side of the Napo River depart on request and cost 1 USD per person.

Laguna Kawana Reserve

The lagoon is surrounded by tropical vegetation, creating an environment suitable for birdwatching, nature photography and leisurely walks. Visitors can explore parts of the area by canoe.

The canoes to the other side of the Napo River depart on request and cost 1 USD per person. From there, dedicated tricycles pick up tourists and deliver them to the reserve. If you can’t see one, just be patient and wait or text the manager of the reserve on WhatsApp.

Jatun Sacha Biological Station

The name Jatun Sacha comes from Kichwa and can be translated as ‘Great Forest’, which is a fitting description of this extensive area of tropical vegetation.

The reserve covers an extensive area of rainforest and has historically been an important location for scientific studies, environmental education and conservation initiatives. Its forest trails and rich biodiversity have also attracted nature enthusiasts interested in exploring the Amazon away from the more commercial tourist attractions.

However, there is a catch. As of October 2026, the place looked abandoned, and the facilities were neglected. We were still able to explore forest trails and discover the extraordinary variety of plants found in the Amazon, as the trails were maintained relatively well and the map was provided at the notice board at the entrance.

There is also an observation tower that provides a different perspective on the forest canopy, allowing visitors to appreciate how dense and extensive the vegetation really is. To climb it, you will need to use a harness, which you may get from the guy at the reception, if you are lucky enough to meet him there. Unfortunately, we weren’t, and we met him after we came back from the hike as he just came to collect money (6 USD for international visitors).

To get there, take the canoe to the other side of the Napo River and then ask around for a tricycle or taxi to the reserve. It should cost between 7-10 USD one way. Ask the driver for a phone number so you can contact him/her to pick you up after the hike.

Caiman Lagoon

For another wildlife-oriented excursion, consider visiting Caiman Lagoon, located in the Ahuano area, further along the Napo River.

The attraction is situated on Anaconda Island and can be reached by river transport, making the journey part of the experience. Going that way would be expensive, so you may consider catching a bus, but you would need to cross the Napo River first, then take a tricycle or taxi to the crossroads with road #436 and wait for the bus there.

As the name suggests, the lagoon is known for its caimans, reptiles belonging to the alligator family that inhabit freshwater environments throughout the Amazon basin. Guided excursions provide an opportunity to learn about these animals and their role in the ecosystem.

Introduction

Nestled in the lush foothills of the Ecuadorian Amazon, Puyo is a vibrant city surrounded by dense tropical forests, winding rivers and endless shades of green. Located in the province of Pastaza, approximately 950 metres above sea level, it serves as one of the main gateways to Ecuador’s vast Amazon rainforest. Unlike the high-altitude cities of the Andes, Puyo enjoys a warm, humid climate throughout the year, with frequent rainfall that keeps the surrounding landscape exceptionally green.

The city’s name comes from the Kichwa word Puyu, meaning cloud or mist, a fitting description of a place where low-hanging clouds often drift across the forest-covered hills.

A Brief History of Puyo

Long before Puyo appeared on Ecuador’s maps, the surrounding territory was inhabited by Indigenous communities who had developed their own cultures, languages and ways of life over generations. The wider Pastaza region remains home to several Indigenous nationalities, including the Kichwa, Shuar, Achuar, Waorani, Shiwiar, Sápara and Andoa. Their ancestral connection to the rainforest continues to shape the identity of the region today.

The commonly recognised founding date of modern Puyo is 12 May 1899, when Dominican missionary Fray Álvaro Valladares arrived in the area accompanied by Indigenous representatives from Canelos. Together, they established a small settlement near the Puyo River, which gradually developed into a stopping point for travellers, missionaries and traders moving between the Andean settlements and the Amazon lowlands.

During its early years, Puyo remained a relatively small and isolated community. Its development accelerated in the early twentieth century as settlers arrived from Andean towns such as Baños and Píllaro. Trade, agriculture and missionary activities contributed to the gradual expansion of the settlement. In 1911, Pastaza became an administrative canton, although Puyo would only become its established administrative centre several decades later.

A major milestone came in 1959, when Pastaza was officially established as an Ecuadorian province, with Puyo designated as its capital. From that point onwards, the city developed into an important administrative, commercial and transport centre for the central Amazon region.

How to get to Puyo?

Getting to Puyo is relatively straightforward, thanks to its road connections with the Ecuadorian Highlands and other destinations in the Amazon region. The city is accessible by public bus or private vehicle, with most travellers arriving from Quito, Baños or Tena.

From Quito to Puyo

The most common way to reach Puyo from Quito is by bus. Services depart from Terminal Terrestre Quitumbe, located in the southern part of the capital. Several transport companies operate routes connecting Quito with Puyo, usually travelling through Ambato and Baños before descending into the Amazon foothills.

The journey takes approximately 5–6 hours, depending on traffic, road conditions and the number of stops. If you prefer to drive, expect around 4–5 hours for the journey.

From Baños to Puyo

If you are already visiting Baños de Agua Santa, reaching Puyo is particularly easy. The two cities are connected by a scenic road that follows the Pastaza River through a landscape of dramatic cliffs, waterfalls and increasingly dense vegetation.

Regular buses connect Baños with Puyo, and the journey generally takes around 1.5–2 hours. This is one of the most enjoyable ways to approach the Ecuadorian Amazon, as the scenery changes noticeably along the way.

From Tena to Puyo

Travellers exploring the northern part of the Ecuadorian Amazon can also reach Puyo from Tena. Buses operate between the two cities, with a journey of approximately 2–2.5 hours. This connection makes it relatively easy to combine both destinations in one itinerary.

From Guayaquil to Puyo

Travelling from Guayaquil takes considerably longer. Buses generally follow a route through Riobamba and Baños before continuing east towards Puyo. Depending on the service and road conditions, the journey can take approximately 7–8 hours.

Travelling by Car

Having your own vehicle offers greater flexibility, particularly if you plan to explore the waterfalls, viewpoints and smaller communities scattered around Pastaza province. The road from Baños to Puyo is especially scenic, passing through the spectacular Pastaza River valley and several popular natural attractions.

There is no regular commercial passenger flight connecting Quito or Guayaquil directly with Puyo. Although there is an airfield in nearby Shell, it mainly serves smaller aircraft and flights to remote Amazonian communities rather than conventional domestic airline services.

Where to stay in Puyo?

I stayed at Hostal Real Amazónico, conveniently located just a few minutes’ walk from the bus terminal. The city centre is also easily accessible by taxi, making it a practical base for exploring Puyo. The room was very basic but clean, and the Wi-Fi worked well throughout my stay. Considering the location and facilities, I thought it was good value for money, with a double room costing around US$25 per night for two people.

What to see around Puyo?

Malecón Boayaku Puyo

Malecón Boayaku is one of the city’s best-known public spaces and a good place to experience everyday life in Puyo.

Situated in Barrio Obrero, alongside the Puyo River, the malecón is a riverside promenade with walking areas, viewpoints, bridges and features celebrating the cultural identity of Pastaza. It is particularly pleasant for a relaxed walk, especially when the weather is cooler.

The malecón is also a good starting point for exploring the nearby Paseo Turístico del Río Puyo.

Paseo Turístico del Río Puyo

For a quieter experience of the Amazonian environment without leaving the city, head to Paseo Turístico del Río Puyo.

This walking route follows the river through a section of tropical vegetation, creating a pleasant escape from the traffic and activity of central Puyo.

Along the way, you can enjoy the sounds of the forest, spot butterflies and birds, and appreciate the lush vegetation that makes this region so distinctive.

Parque Etnobotánico Omaere

The park was established to preserve knowledge about Amazonian plants and the traditional ways in which Indigenous communities use them. During a guided walk, visitors can discover medicinal plants, edible species and materials traditionally used for building houses, making tools and preparing everyday products.

Mercado Mariscal

This traditional market brings together fresh produce, local ingredients and small food stalls serving inexpensive meals. It is particularly interesting for travellers who want to discover dishes associated with the Amazon region rather than sticking to familiar Ecuadorian food.

Some of the specialities worth looking for include:

• Maito: Fish or chicken wrapped in bijao leaves and cooked over a fire.
• Chontacuros: Edible palm grubs, traditionally grilled and served on skewers.
• Chicha de yuca: A traditional fermented or freshly prepared cassava-based drink, depending on the local recipe.
• Palmito: Tender palm heart, used in salads and other regional dishes.

The market is also a good place to discover tropical fruits and ingredients that are less commonly available in Ecuador’s highland cities.

Parque Central 12 de Mayo

Parque Central 12 de Mayo is the traditional heart of Puyo. Its name commemorates 12 May 1899, the date traditionally recognised as the foundation of the modern city.

Surrounded by shops, restaurants and public buildings, the square is a convenient place to take a break and observe everyday life. The nearby cathedral is another interesting landmark.

Museo Etno-Arqueológico de Puyo

The museum houses cultural and archaeological material connected with the peoples who have inhabited the Amazon region. Its exhibits offer a glimpse into traditional ways of life, local history and the cultural development of the wider Pastaza area.

It is a relatively small attraction, so you should not expect a large modern museum with extensive exhibition halls. Nevertheless, it can add valuable context to the other places you visit, particularly if you are interested in understanding the region beyond its natural landscapes.

Cascada Hola Vida

Located south of Puyo, in the direction of Pomona, Cascada Hola Vida is one of the most popular natural attractions in the surrounding area.

Getting to the waterfall involves a short walk through tropical rainforest, following a trail surrounded by dense vegetation. The journey itself is part of the experience, with the opportunity to observe the plants, insects and sounds of the Amazonian ecosystem.

At the end of the trail, you reach a waterfall cascading into a natural pool. If conditions are suitable, you can take a refreshing swim in the water.

You will need a taxi from Puyo to get there. Alternatively, take any bus heading to Macas and ask to be dropped at the turnoff to Pomona. A small shop nearby can arrange a taxi to the waterfalls.

Finca Mirador Indichuris

One of the most impressive viewpoints around Puyo is Finca Mirador Indichuris, located near Pomona, approximately 29 km from the city.

The main attraction is the panoramic view over the Amazon rainforest and the surrounding river valley. From the viewpoint, you can appreciate the meeting of the Puyo and Pastaza rivers, with an enormous expanse of green forest stretching into the distance.

The property features wooden platforms, hammocks and swings positioned to take advantage of the spectacular scenery. It is also associated with community-based tourism, with opportunities to learn more about local Kichwa traditions.

Indichuris is often combined with Cascada Hola Vida, as both attractions are located along the route towards Pomona. The easiest way to get to both places is by taxi from Puyo, as the traffic to Pomona is minimal and you may get stuck. We were waiting a really long time to get a ride back to Puyo.

Nate Saint’s House

Located in the nearby town of Shell, about 10–15 minutes by car from Puyo, Nate Saint’s House is an interesting stop for anyone curious about missionary activity and aviation history in the Ecuadorian Amazon.

Nate Saint was an American missionary pilot who arrived in Ecuador in the late 1940s. He played an important role in establishing aviation links with remote communities in the rainforest. His story is particularly associated with the events of 1956, when he and four other American missionaries were killed during an encounter with members of the Waorani community.

The house preserves part of this history, with photographs, historical objects and information about the missionary aviation operations based in Shell. It provides an insight into an important, though controversial, chapter of the region’s history and the complex relationship between missionaries and Indigenous communities.

Visits require advance arrangements, so contact the organisation responsible for the property before making the journey. Sadly, during my visit in October 20206, I didn’t receive any answer from them, and I was only able to check out the building from the outside.

La Casa del Árbol

This recreational complex is a few minutes’ drive from Puyo, and the main attraction is a structure that allows visitors to climb towards the treetops, offering a closer look at the vegetation from above. There are also walking trails, a swimming pool, canoes and adventure activities, including a swing. Sadly, the place is kitschy and incredibly neglected, with facilities that appear to have deteriorated over time. I wouldn’t recommend wasting time going there.

Introduction

Unlike Ecuador’s better-known Amazon destinations, Macas has a relatively understated tourism profile. Yet its position between the Andes and the rainforest makes it an excellent place to explore southeastern Ecuador’s cultural diversity and natural beauty.

The history of Macas goes back to the early period of Spanish expansion into the eastern territories of what is now Ecuador. Spanish expeditions entered a region already inhabited by Indigenous peoples, including the Shuar, whose communities had their own social structures, territories and traditions.

The Spanish presence in the area was never a straightforward story of settlement. Expeditions encountered resistance, and early settlements experienced considerable instability. One settlement in the region was Sevilla de Oro. Historical accounts describe the destruction of this settlement in the late sixteenth century, after which survivors moved to a different location across the Upano River.

Macas subsequently developed into a more established settlement. Its exact founding history is not entirely straightforward, although 15 August 1563 is commonly commemorated as its foundation date. The city later became an important administrative and commercial centre for the eastern territories.

The Shuar and Macabeo cultures

One of the most fascinating aspects of Macas is the coexistence of two distinct cultural identities: the Indigenous heritage of the Shuar and the Macabeo people. Shuar are Indigenous inhabitants of the Amazon region of present-day southeastern Ecuador, including the territory around Macas, and their history in the area stretches back long before the arrival of the Spanish. The Macabeos emerged much later as a distinct regional mestizo community, shaped by colonial-era settlement and the mixing of cultural influences over subsequent generations.

Traditionally, Shuar families lived in dispersed settlements throughout the Upano River Valley and the forested foothills near the Kutukú Mountains. Rather than concentrating in large towns, many communities organised their lives around extended family networks, with households maintaining their own gardens and relying on a detailed understanding of the surrounding environment. Their traditional subsistence activities included cultivating crops, hunting, fishing and gathering forest products. Cassava, known locally as yuca, was particularly important, while plants such as guayusa played a role in everyday life and cultural practices. Shuar knowledge of the forest encompasses far more than food: it includes medicinal plants, seasonal changes, animal behaviour and the relationships between people and the natural world. Their language, Shuar Chicham, remains an important expression of cultural identity and is spoken alongside Spanish in many communities.

Shuar history is also a story of resistance and adaptation. Spanish attempts to establish control over the eastern territories repeatedly encountered opposition, and Shuar communities maintained considerable independence for centuries. During the nineteenth and twentieth centuries, missionary activity, expanding settlement, new roads and commercial development brought profound changes to their way of life. These processes also contributed to the loss of ancestral lands and growing pressure on forest territories. Nevertheless, Shuar communities have continued to defend their cultural identity, organise politically and adapt their livelihoods to changing circumstances. Today, Shuar people participate in education, local government, commerce and contemporary Indigenous rights movements while continuing to preserve elements of their language, knowledge and traditions. Their cultural world also includes a rich mythology featuring figures such as Etsa, associated with the sun and the struggle against darkness, and Nunkui, connected with fertility, cultivation and the productivity of the earth. These stories express relationships between human life, spiritual forces and the natural environment. For visitors to Macas, learning about the Shuar provides a deeper understanding of the Amazon as a living cultural landscape rather than simply a wilderness to explore.

The Macabeos originated where a distinct local culture developed through the mixing of Indigenous and European populations during and after the Spanish colonial period. However, their origins are more complex than simply being descendants of Spanish settlers. Over time, Macabeos became known for their agricultural lifestyle, strong community ties and hospitality.

One particularly interesting tradition is guayusa, an infusion made from Amazonian leaves that is traditionally offered to visitors. Another is randimpa, a form of collective work in which community members help one another with tasks such as clearing land, harvesting crops or moving a house. These practices reflect the importance of cooperation and mutual support in traditional Macabeo life.

How to get to Macas?

By Bus

Travelling by bus is the most practical option for most visitors. Several transport companies operate routes connecting Macas with Quito, Cuenca, Riobamba and other Ecuadorian cities. Services arrive at the city’s main bus terminal, from where you can take a taxi or walk to accommodation in the centre.

From Quito

Direct buses to Macas are available from Quito’s intercity bus terminals, particularly Quitumbe in the south. Operators serving the route include Touris San Francisco Oriental and Baños, although schedules and departure points can vary.

Another option is to take a bus to Puyo and continue south to Macas. This can be useful if you want to explore the Pastaza region along the way.

From Cuenca

Cuenca is another useful starting point, especially if you are travelling through southern Ecuador. Buses connect the two cities via routes crossing the eastern Andes and descending towards Morona Santiago. Transport companies include Turismo Oriental and Cooperativa de Transportes Macas.

The trip typically takes around four to seven hours, depending on the service and route.

From Riobamba

If you are exploring Ecuador’s central highlands, you can travel from Riobamba to Macas by bus. The route crosses mountainous terrain before descending towards the Amazonian foothills. Allow approximately four to six hours, and check conditions before departure, particularly during periods of heavy rainfall.

By car

Driving gives you more flexibility to stop at viewpoints, small towns and natural attractions along the way.

From Quito: Travel south towards Ambato, continue through Baños and Puyo, then follow the Troncal Amazónica south to Macas. Allow roughly 6–8 hours, depending on traffic and stops.

From Cuenca: Follow the eastern route towards Guarumales and Méndez before continuing to Macas. Travel time varies with the chosen route and road conditions.

From Riobamba: Take the mountain route towards Cebadas and the Atillo area before continuing east towards Macas. Expect winding roads and allow extra time.

Where to stay in Macas?

During my visit to Macas, I stayed at Alojamiento | Centro Macas | Citys Heard Stay, and I was very happy with my choice. The room was clean, comfortable and pleasant, making it a great place to relax after exploring the city and its surroundings. One of the highlights was the rooftop terrace, where I could enjoy panoramic views over Macas and admire Sangay Volcano in the distance on a clear day. The central location was another advantage, providing a convenient base for discovering the city’s main attractions, local restaurants and everyday life. If you’re looking for a comfortable place to stay in Macas with the added bonus of a rooftop view, this accommodation is well worth considering.

What to see around Macas?

Catedral Santuario Católico Purísima de Macas

One of the city’s most important landmarks and a good place to begin exploring its history. Dedicated to the Purísima de Macas, a revered Marian figure closely associated with local religious traditions, the sanctuary reflects the strong influence of Catholicism on the city’s cultural identity. Its architecture and religious artwork make it worth a short visit, even if you are not particularly interested in churches. Take a moment to appreciate the building’s details and learn about the devotion that has connected generations of residents with this important local symbol.

Parque Central de Macas

Surrounded by important buildings and everyday city life, the square offers a glimpse into the slower rhythm of this Amazonian provincial capital. It is a pleasant place to sit beneath the trees, watch locals go about their day and take a break between sightseeing stops. Visit in the morning for a quieter atmosphere or later in the day, when people gather in the centre, and the streets become livelier. The park also makes a convenient base for exploring nearby cafés, shops and restaurants on foot.

Mirador La Randimpa

For a different perspective on Macas, visit Mirador La Randimpa, a viewpoint associated with the city’s green surroundings and the landscape of the Upano Valley. It is a nice addition to a walking tour if you want to escape the busier streets and enjoy some fresh air. Bring your camera and take your time looking out over the surrounding scenery.

Parque Recreacional

The Parque Recreacional Jorge Felipe Rivadeneira is a pleasant green space where you can enjoy a quieter side of the city. Shaded paths, vegetation and areas to sit make it suitable for a leisurely stroll or a break from sightseeing. The park also has viewpoints towards the Upano River, giving visitors a glimpse of the natural landscape beyond the urban area.

Mirador del Quilamo

If you visit just one viewpoint in Macas, make it Mirador del Quilamo. Located above the city, this scenic spot is known for its monument to the Purísima de Macas and its sweeping views across the Upano Valley. From here, you can appreciate the contrast between the built-up city, the broad river valley, the forested landscape and the Kutukú mountain range. Early morning is a good choice if you hope to see the distant mountains before clouds gather.

Centro Gastronómico Shuar “YAWI”

A visit to Macas would not be complete without discovering the food traditions of the Amazon, and Centro Gastronómico Shuar YAWI is a place to explore Shuar culinary heritage. Look out for dishes featuring yuca (cassava), plantains, fish and locally used herbs. If available, try ayampaco, a traditional preparation in which seasoned ingredients are wrapped in leaves and cooked.

Alto Upano viewpoint

For a more expansive view of the region, head to Mirador Alto Upano, located in the parish of San Isidro outside the urban centre. At approximately 1,736 metres above sea level, this elevated viewpoint looks towards the Upano River, the surrounding green mountains and the impressive landscapes of the Amazonian foothills. Sangay Volcano is another major attraction here, although clouds can obscure the summit. You will need transport to reach it, so consider arranging a taxi.

Cascada Yantza – Musap

If you have time to venture beyond the city, Cascada Yantza–Musap offers a chance to experience the rainforest more directly. The journey involves travelling into the countryside, followed by a walk along a forest trail.

Trying local food

Food provides another way to understand Macas’s cultural history. Local cuisine draws on ingredients cultivated or gathered in the surrounding region, including cassava, maize, peanuts, tropical fruits and freshwater fish.

One of the best-known regional dishes is ayampaco, a preparation in which fish or meat is seasoned with herbs and other ingredients, wrapped in leaves and cooked. Recipes vary between communities and cooks, making it a useful introduction to the diversity of food traditions in the Ecuadorian Amazon.

Another important part of local life is guayusa, an infusion made from the leaves of Ilex guayusa, a plant native to the Amazon region. The drink has cultural significance among Amazonian peoples, including the Shuar, and is also associated with hospitality and everyday social life in Macas.

Guayusa contains caffeine and is traditionally consumed for its stimulating effect. Sharing the drink can be more than a simple refreshment: in some cultural contexts, it is connected to conversation, collective knowledge and the rhythms of daily life.

Exploring the deeper Amazon on a multi-day expedition

Local tour operators can arrange guided journeys into more remote areas of Morona Santiago, where dense forest, winding rivers and isolated communities offer a very different perspective on Ecuador’s Amazon region. Depending on the itinerary, you may spend your days hiking beneath the forest canopy, looking for tropical birds and other wildlife, learning about medicinal plants, and discovering how Indigenous communities use and understand their natural surroundings. Some expeditions also include river journeys, overnight stays in basic jungle accommodation and opportunities to learn about Shuar traditions from local guides. Trips can range from two days to longer adventures, depending on the destination and level of remoteness. If you’re particularly interested in exploring relatively untouched rainforest, contact a specialist operator in Macas to discuss a tailor-made itinerary, as reaching the more isolated areas may require additional travel time. Be prepared for humid conditions, muddy trails and simple facilities, but also for an opportunity to experience a side of the Ecuadorian Amazon that a short city visit cannot provide.

Introduction

Just a couple of hours east of Quito, Papallacta is a small mountain village best known for its natural hot springs and beautiful high-altitude scenery. Located in Napo Province, on the eastern side of the Andes, it sits along the road connecting the capital with the Ecuadorian Amazon. The journey itself is part of the experience, with the road climbing through open mountain landscapes before descending towards the greener, more humid slopes on the Amazonian side of the mountains.

Papallacta is a good place to slow down for a day or two, especially after spending time exploring Ecuador’s volcanoes and hiking trails. The weather is often cold, misty and unpredictable, but that is part of its appeal. Soaking in warm water while clouds drift across the surrounding mountains is a very different experience from visiting a hot spring in a tropical setting.

However, there is more to Papallacta than its thermal pools. The surrounding area is characterised by the paramo, a high-altitude ecosystem found across the northern Andes. Its open grasslands, low shrubs, wetlands and scattered patches of native forest create a landscape that feels quite different from the more familiar forests and valleys of lower elevations.

The area lies close to Cayambe-Coca National Park, an extensive protected area known for its mountain scenery, lakes and biodiversity. Depending on the weather and access conditions, visitors can explore local trails, look for birds or simply stop along the road to enjoy the views. The wider region is also associated with the impressive Antisana Ecological Reserve, home to high Andean landscapes and wildlife.

For hikers and nature lovers, this is a particularly interesting part of Ecuador. The scenery changes considerably with altitude, and the combination of paramo, cloud forest and the transition towards the Amazon makes the region worth exploring beyond a single visit to the hot springs. However, some trails and protected areas require planning, so it is worth checking local access before setting off.

How to get to Papallacta?

Papallacta is approximately 65–70 km east of Quito. By car, the journey usually takes around 1.5–2 hours, depending on traffic and weather. You can drive yourself, arrange a private transfer or join a day tour from Quito.

Public buses also travel along the Quito–Baeza route, passing through the Papallacta area. The main bathing complexes are not right beside the bus stop, but you can easily get there by taxi for 2-3 USD.

The drive crosses high mountain terrain, where fog and rain can reduce visibility considerably. Allow extra time, particularly if you plan to return to Quito on the same day.

Where to stay in Papallacta?

Accommodation in Papallacta can be surprisingly expensive, especially if you want to stay right next to the thermal pools during the weekend. There are cheaper guesthouses in the village, but the more comfortable spa hotels tend to charge considerably more.

During my visit, I stayed at Hotel Sol de Piedra, where we paid around $35 per night for two people, including breakfast. It was nothing fancy, and the room felt a bit cold at night, but it was perfectly reasonable for a short stay. Given that other accommodation options in the area can be much more expensive, I thought it was a good budget-friendly choice.

If you would rather stay at Termas de Papallacta, the experience is more upscale. The hotel has rooms with private bathrooms and underfloor heating, as well as options with a private jacuzzi and family cabins. Guests staying in the hotel also have access to thermal pools reserved for overnight visitors.

As a rough guide, recent booking listings put a standard double room at around $140 per night for two people, including taxes and breakfast. Jacuzzi rooms and larger cabins can cost more, and prices vary with dates and availability.

You can check current rates and packages on the official Termas de Papallacta accommodation website.

What to see around Papallacta?

Termas de Papallacta

The main reason most travellers come to Papallacta is this thermal complex surrounded by green hills and mountain vegetation. The water is heated naturally by geothermal processes and contains dissolved minerals. The complex has several outdoor pools at different temperatures, allowing visitors to move between warmer and cooler water while enjoying the views.

The atmosphere is particularly pleasant on cold or rainy days, when steam rises from the pools and the surrounding landscape disappears into the mist. The spa also offers treatments, accommodation, and a restaurant, so it is easy to turn a quick stop into a more relaxing stay.

The entrance costs 10.50 USD, and you can stay as long as you want. Some hotels include the entrance ticket in the accommodation package, so those deals might be slightly cheaper.

For a less resort-like experience, the village also has other thermal bathing options, including Santa Catalina. These are worth considering if you prefer a simpler, more local atmosphere rather than a full spa experience.

Sendero de la Isla

It is a short nature walk (less than 2 km) near the hot springs which follows the Río Loreto through a patch of native Andean forest, where the vegetation changes between paramo plants and the lush greenery typical of the high-altitude cloud forest. The sound of the river accompanies much of the walk, and small bridges allow you to cross the water and follow the path on the opposite bank.

Sendero Agua y Vida

Water and Life Trail is one of the most rewarding hikes in the paramo around Papallacta. Located in the highlands of Cayambe-Coca National Park, the route crosses a remote landscape of mountain lakes, open grasslands, wetlands and small streams.

Along the way, hikers pass several beautiful Andean lagoons, including Laguna de Baños, Laguna Anteojos and Laguna Parcacocha. The scenery is typical of the paramo: wide-open grasslands, low vegetation adapted to the cold, waterlogged ground and mountains that often disappear behind passing clouds. On clear days, the surrounding peaks create an impressive backdrop, while the changing weather gives the landscape a more mysterious atmosphere.

The usual starting point is near La Virgen, on the Quito–Papallacta road, but the taxi can take you even further uphill towards the antennas. The trail then descends towards the Baños checkpoint near Papallacta. The route is generally around 9–10 km long and takes approximately four to six hours, depending on your pace, weather conditions and stops along the way. Most of the hike is downhill, but this does not necessarily make it easy. The altitude, muddy ground and uneven terrain can make walking more demanding than the distance suggests. The trail also passes Cascada La Milagrosa, a waterfall that adds another highlight to the journey.

The easiest option is to arrange private transport, which should cost about 18-20 USD from Patallacta to the antennas. You may also arrange transport from the checkpoint near Milagrosa Waterfall back to Patallacta, or simply walk down to town, adding 5 km to your hike.

Sendero el Oso

Located in the páramo of Cayambe-Coca National Park, the trail crosses open mountain grasslands, wetlands and small lakes, offering a glimpse of a wilder side of Ecuador that many visitors miss when they come only for the hot springs.

The name means “Bear Trail” and refers to the Andean spectacled bear, an elusive species that inhabits these mountains. Although spotting one would be a rare treat, the area is rich in natural scenery, with wide-open views, high-altitude lagoons and a sense of remoteness despite being relatively close to Quito.

The route is generally a one-way hike, starting near the Virgen de Papallacta landmark on the Quito–Papallacta road and descending towards the Baños control point near Papallacta. It covers approximately 7–13 km and takes around 3–5 hours. It can be connected with Sendero Agua y Vida as a 17 km loop.

Much of the route lies at around 3,700–4,300 metres above sea level, where walking can feel considerably harder than at lower elevations. The ground can also be muddy and waterlogged, especially after rain.

Since this is a one-way route, arrange transport to the starting point before setting off. It should cost between 15-20 USD. You may also arrange transport from the checkpoint near Milagrosa Waterfall back to Patallacta, or simply walk down to town, adding 5 km to your hike.

Milagrosa Waterfall

The waterfall is relatively small compared with some of Ecuador’s more famous cascades, but its setting is what makes it appealing. The surrounding landscape is wild and often quiet, with the sound of rushing water breaking through the otherwise peaceful mountain environment.

The waterfall is reached via the road from Papallacta towards Laguna Baños. If you are travelling by car, you can drive towards the park access checkpoint and follow the local signs and trail to the waterfall. The final section is a short walk, often described as roughly 900 metres from the access area.

If you do not have your own vehicle, you will need to arrange a taxi.

The waterfall can be visited as a relatively short excursion, but it is also part of longer hiking routes through the surrounding high-altitude landscape, including routes towards Laguna Baños and Laguna Parcacocha (Sendero Agua y Vida or Sendero el Oso).

Introduction

Hidden in the southern Ecuadorian Andes, between Cuenca and Loja, Saraguro is a destination where history, Indigenous identity and rural life remain closely connected. While many travellers cross this region on their way between Ecuador’s larger cities, the town and its surrounding communities offer a fascinating opportunity to discover a different side of the country.

Saraguro is best known as the homeland of the Kichwa Saraguro people, an Indigenous community recognised for its distinctive traditional clothing, cultural celebrations and strong connection to ancestral customs. Here, black and white garments, long braided hair, agricultural traditions and community festivities are part of a living cultural identity rather than simply reminders of the past. Beyond the town centre, the surrounding countryside reveals green Andean hills, traditional villages and opportunities to experience local life at a slower pace.

A Brief History of Saraguro

The history of Saraguro is closely linked to the expansion of the Inca Empire across the southern Andes during the fifteenth century. According to historical interpretations and community traditions, the ancestors of the modern Saraguro people may have been among the groups relocated by the Incas from other parts of their empire. Such movements, known as mitma, helped the Inca rulers strengthen their control over newly incorporated territories. However, the precise origins of the Saraguro people remain a subject of historical discussion.

The region was also connected to the extensive Inca road network, known as the Qhapaq Ñan, which linked important settlements throughout the empire. Its location along a route between the southern highlands made the area significant for travel, communication and the movement of goods.

Following the Spanish conquest, the Saraguro community developed a distinctive relationship with the colonial authorities. Historical accounts describe land rights that helped some local families maintain a degree of independence from the large estates that dominated much of the Andean countryside. Over the centuries, the community preserved important aspects of its cultural identity while adapting to changing political, religious and economic circumstances.

Today, Saraguro’s heritage can be seen in its clothing, language, agricultural practices, festivities and community life. Rather than being confined to museums, these traditions continue to evolve across the town and the surrounding Indigenous communities.

Why Is Saraguro Called the Land of Maize?

One of the most interesting details about Saraguro is the meaning associated with its name. Several interpretations connect it to maize, known as sara in Kichwa. Proposed meanings include references to golden maize, maize that is growing, and other associations with this important crop.

Maize has long played a significant role in local agriculture, food and cultural life. It is used in traditional dishes and drinks and remains closely connected to the region’s agricultural calendar. This relationship between the land, food and community identity helps explain why maize features so prominently in descriptions of Saraguro.

What Makes Saraguro Unique?

One of the first things visitors may notice is the traditional clothing worn by members of the Saraguro community. Black and white are particularly prominent, with women often wearing dark skirts and shawls, while men traditionally wear dark garments and distinctive ponchos or hats. Long braids are another recognisable feature among both men and women.

These garments are not merely a tourist attraction. They reflect cultural identity and traditions passed down through generations, although clothing choices naturally vary between individuals and generations.

Saraguro is also known for its Andean celebrations, including the Raymis, a series of festivities associated with different stages of the agricultural and ceremonial calendar. Some celebrations combine Indigenous traditions with elements of Catholicism, reflecting centuries of cultural interaction.

Another reason to visit is the opportunity to explore the communities beyond the main town. Places such as Gera, Las Lagunas, Ñamarín and Ilincho offer different ways to learn about local heritage, traditional crafts and rural life. Community-based tourism can provide a more personal experience.

How to get to Saraguro?

From Cuenca

The easiest way to reach Saraguro from Cuenca is by public bus. Buses depart from Terminal Terrestre de Cuenca, the city’s main bus terminal, and travel south along the Pan-American Highway.

The journey covers approximately 140 km and usually takes around 2.5–3 hours, depending on traffic and stops. Several bus companies serve this route, including Viajeros Internacional, Cooperativa Loja, and Santa. Some services travel onwards to Loja or other destinations in southern Ecuador.

When boarding, confirm with the driver or ticket office that the bus stops in Saraguro, particularly if you are taking a service heading further south.

From Loja

Travelling from Loja is even easier, as Saraguro is only about 60–65 km away. Direct buses connect the two towns throughout the day, and the journey generally takes around 1–1.5 hours.

Buses leave from the main bus terminal in Loja, with services operated by companies such as Transporte Ejecutivo San Luis, Viajeros Internacional, Cooperativa Loja, and Trans-Saraguro. Frequency varies by operator, so it is best to check the current timetable at the terminal rather than rely on an old schedule.

Where to stay in Saraguro?

If you want to experience more than just the town centre, I highly recommend staying at Taski Wasi Mirador del Cóndor Andino, a small guesthouse located in the Gera community, around 10 km from Saraguro. Surrounded by Andean landscapes, this accommodation offers a wonderful opportunity to slow down, enjoy the countryside and learn more about the culture of the Indigenous Saraguro people.

One of the biggest highlights is the spectacular view over the surrounding valleys and mountains. The property is run by Rosa, a local host who welcomes visitors into her home and can introduce them to local traditions, food and everyday life. You can also arrange homemade meals prepared using ingredients from the family garden, making the experience particularly appealing if you enjoy discovering local cuisine.

Taski Wasi is also an excellent base for exploring the surrounding area. Nearby attractions include the striking red cliffs of El Infiernillo, local walking trails and the Pucará archaeological trail. The area is also associated with the Andean condor, making it an interesting destination for nature lovers and birdwatchers.

Getting a taxi to Taski Wasi from Saraguro’s city centre costs between 6 and 8 USD.

What to see around Saraguro?

Saraguro Main Square

Saraguro’s main square, known as Parque Central, is the natural starting point for exploring the town. It lies in the centre of the community, directly opposite the Iglesia Matriz de Saraguro, and provides a good place to observe the rhythm of everyday life in this part of the Ecuadorian Andes.

The square is more than a place to sit and relax. It serves as a meeting point for residents from Saraguro and the surrounding rural communities, particularly during cultural celebrations, religious festivities and local markets. On busier days, the area becomes an excellent place to observe the traditional clothing worn by members of the Kichwa Saraguro community, including dark garments, distinctive hats and long braids.

One of the square’s main landmarks is the Iglesia Matriz de Saraguro. Construction of the church began in 1943 and continued until 1963, with restoration work carried out in later decades. Its stone façade and traditional materials give it a prominent position in the town centre. Inside, colourful columns, stained-glass windows and a decorated altar create a contrast with the more restrained exterior.

Cascada Virgen de Agua Santa

The site is located approximately 8 km northeast of Saraguro, in the Indigenous community of Oñacapac and is not just a single waterfall but a collection of cascades along the Waylashi River, surrounded by dense green vegetation and steep mountain slopes. To get there, you may need to hire a camioneta (pick-up truck), as the road may be rough.

The main attraction is Virgen Kaka, the largest and most significant waterfall in the complex. Its name is connected to a remarkable local belief: visitors can see a natural formation resembling the Virgin Mary on a rock near the falling water. According to community tradition, the image appeared in the early eighteenth century after a religious image carried by a local community member was lost in the river. Over time, the place became associated with devotion to the Virgen de Agua Santa and continues to attract visitors interested in both nature and local spirituality.

The complex also includes the smaller waterfalls of Sharazhi and Mama Sharazhi. From the main waterfall, take a path heading left, across the bridge, to reach the remaining waterfalls.

Baños del Inca

Just a few minutes from Saraguro’s town centre, in the community of Ñamarín, Baños del Inca is a fascinating natural site associated with the region’s pre-Columbian past. Despite its name, this is not a modern thermal spa. Instead, it is a secluded landscape of waterfall, rock shelters, caves and natural pools, tucked into the slopes around the Ñamarín area.

The main waterfall reaches approximately 60 metres in height, descending from the surrounding mountain into a natural pool below. Unfortunately, at the time of my visit in early October, it was almost completely dry. In the wetter season, the water, dark rock and green vegetation create a secluded atmosphere, even though the site is close to town. Nearby are caves traditionally known as the Caves of the Inca, which add another layer of mystery to the visit.

Local accounts associate the place with the Inca ruler Atahualpa, suggesting that he once rested or bathed here during his travels. Although this story forms part of the site’s cultural appeal, it is best understood as local tradition rather than a definitively established historical fact.

Mirador del Cóndor Andino at Taski Wasi

One of the highlights of staying at Taski Wasi, in the Gera community near Saraguro, is the Mirador del Cóndor Andino. This viewpoint offers an opportunity to appreciate the dramatic Andean landscape, with rolling green hills, deep valleys and expansive mountain views stretching across the surrounding countryside.

The viewpoint is closely associated with the Andean condor, one of South America’s most impressive birds and an important symbol of the Andes. With its enormous wingspan, the condor is adapted to soaring on rising air currents above mountain slopes. Although sightings are never guaranteed, the viewpoint’s name reflects the region’s connection with this iconic bird.

Near the viewpoint, there is also a trailhead of 1 km route towards Pukara – an old Inca’s site.

Museum in Gera Community

A small local museum is located near the community school. Although modest in size, it offers an opportunity to learn more about the area’s cultural heritage and the traditions of the Kichwa Saraguro people.

Because it is a small community-run attraction rather than a conventional museum, opening hours may be limited. It is best to ask local residents or your host at Taski Wasi whether it is possible to visit.