Zaouiat Ahansal is a small, remote village located in the High Atlas Mountains of Morocco. The village gets its name from the local “zaouia” (religious school or monastery) founded by Sidi Said Ahansal, a revered Islamic scholar and saint. This religious significance made the village an important spiritual and educational centre for the surrounding region for centuries.

Zaouiat Ahansal is set in a dramatic mountainous landscape, surrounded by towering peaks, rugged valleys, and winding rivers, including the Assif Ahansal River. The area is part of Morocco’s central High Atlas range and is known for its pristine nature, making it a popular destination for adventure tourists, climbers, and hikers.

The village’s religious roots date back to the 16th century when it became a spiritual hub for the surrounding Berber tribes. Sidi Said Ahansal, the founder of the zaouia, established a religious order that drew followers from the High Atlas region. The influence of the Ahansal family extended over centuries, and the local zaouia was both a centre of learning and a point of unity for the local Amazigh (Berber) communities. Today, the religious significance of the village remains a key part of its identity.

The population of Zaouiat Ahansal is predominantly Amazigh, and the local culture is deeply rooted in traditional Berber customs, language, and ways of life. The Berber people have preserved their unique customs, dialects, and cultural practices for generations in the face of modern challenges. Traditional festivals, clothing, and crafts remain vital parts of everyday life, though they are slowly adapting to the modern world.

In recent years, Zaouiat Ahansal has become an emerging destination for eco-tourism and adventure travel. Visitors come to explore the untouched natural beauty of the High Atlas, engage in trekking, mountain biking, and rock climbing, or experience the quiet, traditional life of the Amazigh people. Due to its relative isolation, the village has managed to retain much of its authenticity, making it attractive to tourists seeking less commercialized experiences.

When it comes to rock climbing, nearby Taghia Gorge has gained a reputation as one of the premier destinations in the country. The steep limestone walls offer a variety of climbing routes, ranging from technical sport climbs to long, multi-pitch trad routes. Due to the complexity and difficulty of many of the climbs, Taghia attracts serious climbers, including professionals from around the world. The routes vary in difficulty, but many are highly challenging, with climbs often exceeding 300 meters. The gorge is often compared to renowned climbing locations in Europe and has been described as a “paradise” for big-wall climbers. The area was relatively unknown in the global climbing community until the late 20th century when international climbers began exploring the region. The remoteness means that amenities and modern conveniences are limited, adding to the appeal for those looking for an immersive adventure in a natural, undeveloped setting.

How to get there?

Getting to Zaouiat Ahansal, a remote village in the High Atlas Mountains of Morocco, requires some planning due to its isolated location and lack of direct transportation options. However, the journey offers a rewarding experience through Morocco’s rugged mountain landscapes. The most common starting point for travellers heading to Zaouiat Ahansal is Marrakech, the nearest major city with an international airport and well-developed infrastructure. From Marrakech, you have two main options: renting a car or using public transport, though the latter will involve multiple steps.

By Car

Renting a car is the most flexible and efficient way to reach Zaouiat Ahansal, as it gives you control over the journey and allows you to explore the surrounding area at your own pace. The drive from Marrakech takes around 5-7 hours, depending on road conditions and stops.

From Marrakech, head northeast toward the town of Azilal. You’ll follow the R210 road toward Demnate, then take the R304 road, which passes through stunning mountainous terrain. After reaching Azilal, continue toward Ait M’Hamed and head to Zaouiat Ahansal via the rural R302 road. This road becomes narrower and more challenging as you ascend into the High Atlas.

By Public Transport

While public transport options are limited, combining buses and taxis to reach Zaouiat Ahansal is possible, though this will take longer and may require flexibility.

Firstly, take a bus from Marrakech to Azilal. Several bus companies operate this route, and the journey takes about 4-5 hours. Buses to Azilal leave from the main bus station in Marrakech (Gare Routière).

Secondly, find a shared taxi from Azilal to Ait M’Hamed. The grand taxis are often crowded and less comfortable than buses but are commonly used for travel in rural Morocco.

From Ait M’Hamed, there may be local taxis or 4×4 vehicles available to take you to Zaouiat Ahansal, though this can depend on demand. Alternatively, you can hire a guide and arrange a multi-day trek from Ait M’Hamed or another nearby village to reach Zaouiat Ahansal, which can be an adventurous option.

The best time to visit

Plan your trip in spring or autumn for the best weather conditions. Winter can bring snow and ice to the higher mountain roads, making them difficult to navigate. Summer can be hot, but temperatures are milder in the mountains.

You should always have some warmer layers, regardless of the season. In the end, it’s mountains there!

How long to stay there?

One day is enough if you just plan to drive to Taghia Gorge and do some hiking there. You should plan some extra time if you are a climbing enthusiast.

Where to stay?

There are some basic guesthouses in Zaouiat Ahansal, and staying with local families is also an option. I spent the night in AUBERGE Kasbah Ouad Ahanssal. The location is magnificent and so are the views around the property. The shower always had hot water and the dinner was delicious.

What to do in Taghia Gorge?

Passage Berbere

A wonderful place to discover but not for people who are quickly affected by dizziness or are afraid of exposition. It is better to start the adventure in the morning if the weather is mild and the path is dry. Good shoes and a warm layer of clothing are a must. Avoid going there solo in case something goes wrong. Taking a guide might be a smart idea. Otherwise, follow the trail which is visible on Mapy.cz, as shown below. The first section is of medium difficulty and involves some easy scrambling. Then, the proper Passage Berbere is something that I didn’t care to cross. It was made with sticks and stones during the colonization of Morocco so that the Moroccan soldiers could escape the enemy army.

Drive from Zaouiat Ahansal to Taghia

The dirt road linking these two villages is very narrow so you may have some problems if there is a car coming from the opposite direction. The distance is about 9 kilometers and the views are simply breathtaking with you being surrounded on both sides by the high walls of rock. In good weather conditions, the road is passable in a standard 2WD car (I did it in a Renault Clio). When I was passing through some village en route, there were quite aggressive kids, wanting money and hitting the car windows with their hands. Moments like this make me sceptic about travelling to Morocco but luckily soon happy feelings take over when I see the landscapes. If that happens to you, just keep the door of the car locked and slowly move forward. Do not give those kids any money!

Canyon Tazart

On the way back from Taghia, look for some small village with a few houses on your left. It’s a good idea to make a stop there and check out Canyon Tazart. Just follow the dried river bed and double-check your position on Mapy.CZ.

The gorge is completely different from the one around Passage Berbere and walking felt was much safer. At some point, as it was getting late, I decided to turn around and return taking the same path. You should definitely avoid this place in case of rainy weather due to the risk of flash floods.

Other hikes

There are other hiking opportunities in the area, for one or multiday adventures involving peaks over 3.000 meters above sea level. However, the trails are not marked and it’s highly recommended to hire a guide or at least consult one before setting off.

Taroudant is a historic town located in southern Morocco, which is believed to have a similar appearance to Marrakesh, though it’s smaller and less hectic. It is set against a stunning backdrop of the Atlas Mountains and surrounded by well-preserved, reddish-brown walls that give it a fortified, medieval feel. Unlike Marrakesh, it’s less touristy, offering a more authentic experience of Moroccan life.

Taroudant’s history stretches back to ancient times, with its origins likely rooted in a Berber settlement. The town gained prominence in the 11th century during the Almoravid dynasty, which used it as a military base due to its strategic location in the Souss Valley. However, it was during the Saadian dynasty in the 16th century that Taroudant truly flourished. The Saadian sultan, Mohammed ash-Sheikh, transformed the town into a key administrative and military centre. He constructed the impressive city walls and fortifications that still stand today, and Taroudant became a thriving hub of trade and culture, benefiting from its position on important caravan routes linking the Sahara to the Atlantic coast. In the centuries that followed, the town experienced periods of decline, particularly after the capital was moved to Marrakesh. However, Taroudant retained its regional importance, especially as a centre for agricultural production, thanks to the fertile lands surrounding it.

How to get there?

By Air:

The closest major airport to Taroudant is Agadir Al Massira Airport (AGA), about 65 kilometres away. You can take a taxi, arrange a private transfer or rent a car from the airport to Taroudant. The drive takes about 1 to 1.5 hours.

By Bus:

Regular buses run from Agadir to Taroudant and are operated by companies like CTM and Supratours. There are also bus services from Marrakech; the journey takes around 4 to 5 hours.

By Car:

The drive from Agadir to Taroudant is straightforward, and scenic, and takes about 1,5 hours (82 km). From Marrakech, the journey is around 3.5 to 4 hours (270 km).

If you decide to start from Agadir, I recommend using the service of Click’n’Go Car Rental. Amiable guys and easy to contact on WhatsApp. I rented a Renault Clio for the whole month and got a nice price.

By Taxi:

In Morocco, shared taxis also known as ‘grand taxis’ operate on longer routes between cities. You can take one from Agadir or Marrakech directly to Taroudant.

By Train:

There is no direct train service to Taroudant. The nearest train stations are in Marrakech or Agadir, after which you’ll need to take a bus, taxi, or car to reach Taroudant.

The best time to visit

The best time to visit Taroudant is spring (March to May) and fall (September to November). During these seasons, the weather is pleasantly warm with daytime temperatures typically ranging between 20C and 30C, making it ideal for exploring the town and its surroundings.

Winter (December to February) can also be a good time to visit, as temperatures are cooler, especially in the evenings, but still mild compared to many other destinations.

Summer (June to August) is generally hot, with temperatures often exceeding 35C, which might be uncomfortable for some travellers. However, this is also a low tourist season so you might find fewer crowds and better deals on accommodations.

Where to stay?

I stayed in Chambres d’Hôtes les Amis. It is located within walking distance of the city walls and if you have a car, you can park it in the narrow street beside the building. The room was clean and cosy and so was the shared bathroom. A good breakfast is served on the rooftop terrace. The only negative point was the weak WIFI signal in the room.

How long to stay there?

One full day is enough to discover the city comfortably and even fit a few hours’ trip out of town to Tiout Kasbah if you feel like it.

How to get around?

The medina is inside impressive city walls and can be easily discovered on foot. To get to Tiout Kasbah, you will need a rental car or negotiate a taxi ride.

What to see in Taroudant?

From my accommodation, the first significant sight I approached when heading towards the city centre was Bab Taryunt, the historical west entrance to Taroudant. A few hundred meters further following Boulevard Mohammed V is Place Assarag. It’s a traditional Moroccan square with mall stalls, preachers, restaurants, and horse and carriage rides. It is said to be a mini version of Jemaa el-Fnaa in Marrakech.

Another square worth mentioning is 20 August Place, located just outside the city wall. You can find there a large area with a fountain in the middle. Nearby is Bab El Kasbah, an impressive city gate.

Constructed by Moulay Ismail, the historic Kasbah section is now a poor but safe residential neighbourhood with narrow streets and low arches leading to small squares and dead ends. Kasbah Garden was created by Hotel Palais Salam but it seems not to be maintained anymore.

I went for a stroll in Brahim Roudani Garden and checked out Fontaine Passage Palmeraie. Nice and relaxing spot, but the fountains don’t seem to be working for a while.

All in all, the best that Taroudant has to offer is its walls. Walking along them, admiring magnificent city gates, having a mint tea at one of the cafes and simply observing local life going on will make for a worthy day in town.

What to see around Taroudant?

Tiout Kasbah

Standing atop a hill, this majestic kasbah is a remnant of the Saadian period (16th century). At the base of the Kasbah is the genuine maze-like palm forest. You can stroll among orange, pomegranate, carob, and more than 20,000 palm trees as you follow the irrigation canals. As soon as you arrive, you will be offered guided tours or donkey rides. Some guides are very persistent! There is also a panoramic restaurant serving traditional Berber dishes. The Kasbah is located 30 km from Taroudant on the route to Tata.

Casablanca, now a bustling metropolis in Morocco, has a rich and varied history shaped by various cultures and influences over the centuries. The area around the town has been inhabited since at least the 7th century BC. The Berbers, the indigenous people of North Africa, were among the first to settle here.

The Phoenicians established a trading post in the region, followed by the Romans, who called it Anfa. By the 8th century, Anfa had become an important port for the Berber Kingdom of Barghawata.

In the 15th century, Portuguese traders and pirates frequently targeted Anfa. In 1468, the Portuguese destroyed the town due to its piracy issues.

In 1515, the Portuguese rebuilt the city and named it Casa Branca, meaning “White House.” They maintained control until the early 18th century and abandoned it following an earthquake and continued conflicts.

Sultan Mohammed ben Abdallah, from the Alaouite dynasty, rebuilt the city in the late 18th century, renaming it Dar el-Beida, which translates to “White House” in Arabic.

In 1912, Casablanca became part of the French Protectorate of Morocco. Under the French administration, the city underwent significant modernization and expansion, with new infrastructure, buildings, and a modern port.

After Morocco gained independence from France in 1956, Casablanca emerged as the country’s economic capital. The town also developed into a cultural centre, symbolizing modernity and progress in Morocco. The famous 1942 film “Casablanca,” though not filmed there, further romanticized the city in global popular culture.

Today, Casablanca is Morocco’s largest city and a key financial centre in Africa. It is home to iconic landmarks like the Hassan II Mosque, one of the largest mosques in the world, and the bustling Corniche seaside district. Unfortunately, the city has a bad reputation for being dirty and chaotic and all is true.

How to get there?

By Air:

Book a flight to Mohammed V International Airport (CMN), the primary airport serving Casablanca. Many major airlines offer direct flights from various global cities.

By Train:

If you’re already in Morocco, you can take a train from cities like Marrakech, Rabat, or Fes. Arrive at Casa Voyageurs or Casa Port, the main train station in Casablanca. ONCF, the national railway operator, provides regular and comfortable services.

By Bus:

Several bus companies, such as CTM and Supratours, offer routes to Casablanca from various Moroccan cities. Buses typically arrive at Gare Routière de Casablanca, from where you can take a taxi or local bus to your destination within the city.

By Car:

If you prefer driving, major highways like the A3 and A7 connect Casablanca with other Moroccan cities. You can rent a car from various international and local companies. Ensure you have a valid driver’s license and familiarize yourself with local driving laws.

The best time to visit

The best time to visit Casablanca is during the spring (April to June) and autumn (September to November) seasons. The temperatures are mild and pleasant, typically ranging from 15°C to 25°C. It’s a great time to explore the city’s attractions without the peak summer crowds.

During summer (July to August) Casablanca experiences warm weather with temperatures often exceeding 30°C. While it’s not as hot as inland Moroccan cities, the humidity can be high, making it less comfortable for sightseeing.

Winter (December to February) brings cooler weather with temperatures ranging from 8°C to 18°C. While it’s still a viable time to visit, some days may be rainy or windy.

Where to stay?

I stayed in Stayhere Casablanca – Gauthier 1 – Modern Residence which was nicely located near Arab League Park. The room and bathroom were clean but there were constant problems with electricity. The staff were really helpful and were doing their best to sort it out so I believe it won’t be an issue in the future.

How long to stay there?

Two full days are enough to discover the city comfortably and to take a long walk along the corniche. Casablanca is a very dirty and polluted city so you don’t want to stay there too long. Much better places in Morocco are awaiting your visit!

How to get around?

Casablanca has an efficient tramway system that connects different parts of the city. Petit taxis are an option for short distances within the city and grand taxis are for longer routes. Public buses are available too though it might be difficult to figure out the routes and schedules.

What to see in Casablanca?

Day 1

I left for sightseeing very early in the morning and it was nice to see the city waking up. Mohammed V Boulevard is one of the streets in town that has some fine examples of grand colonial-era buildings in Art Deco style, including the famous Cinema Rialto, which was completed in 1929 according to the designs of French architect Pierre Jabin.

After a quick breakfast in the form of croissant with coffee, I took a petit taxi to the biggest attraction in the city: Hassan II Mosque. Its history is deeply intertwined with the vision of King Hassan II, who sought to create a monument reflecting Morocco’s religious and cultural heritage while also making a statement on the global stage. The idea for the mosque was conceived in the 1980s.

The location chosen for the mosque was particularly significant. Perched on a promontory overlooking the Atlantic Ocean, the mosque would symbolize the connection between the heavens and the earth, a theme central to Islamic belief. Construction began in 1986 and was a massive undertaking, employing thousands of workers, artisans, and craftsmen from across Morocco. The project took seven years to complete, with the mosque finally being inaugurated on August 30, 1993, in time for the late king’s birthday celebrations.

The mosque’s construction was a point of national pride, and many Moroccans contributed to its funding through public donations. Architecturally, the Hassan II Mosque is a masterpiece that blends traditional Islamic design with modern engineering. The mosque’s design was the work of the French architect Michel Pinseau, who collaborated closely with Moroccan artisans to ensure that the structure reflected the country’s rich artistic heritage. The mosque features intricate mosaics, carved plaster, and woodwork, all executed with remarkable precision. One of the most striking aspects of the mosque is its minaret, which soars 210 meters into the sky, making it the tallest in the world. This minaret is equipped with a laser beam that points towards Mecca, a reminder of the direction in which Muslims pray.

The glass floor in some sections of the mosque allows worshippers to see the ocean waves beneath them, reinforcing the sense of connection between the earthly and the divine. The mosque is also equipped with modern amenities, including heated floors, retractable roofs, and sophisticated sound systems, ensuring comfort for the worshippers while preserving the sacred ambience. It can accommodate up to 105,000 worshippers, with space for 25,000 inside and 80,000 in the courtyard.

The guided tour lasts about an hour and is mandatory to participate if you want to visit the interior. It includes Prayer Hall, Minaret Hall and Ablution Hall. The cost is 130 MAD for foreigners. Working hours vary so it’s best to check them on the website HERE. Next to the ticket counter is also a small museum where you can kill time waiting for the guided tour to start.

From the mosque, you can take a long walk along the corniche towards Observation Deck Al Âank and El Hank Lighthouse. Stunning views of the city and the Atlantic Ocean are guaranteed. The lighthouse is also said to be one of the best places in Casablanca to see the sunset. It came into operation in 1920 and helped the development of the city of Casablanca, as it facilitated access to the port, which was previously considered dangerous. In October 2023 it was not possible to climb it but I have seen reports that it used to be open for tourists so you may want to check it out.

The walk can be continued along Boulevard de l’Océan Atlantique to beaches: Plage Lalla Meryem, Plage Aïn Diab and Plage Madame Choual. Then, take a petit taxi back to the centre of the town: United Nations Square. Constructed at the Medina’s entry during Morocco’s French Protectorate era, it currently serves as a vital hub for the city.

The place used to be occupied by Grand Souk, however, the city continued to expand after the French arrived in the early 20th century, permanently altering areas like this one. Thus, the clock tower was constructed in 1918 and the place was named Square of the Clock (later renamed Square of France). It marked the start of the city’s urban development, led by architect Henri Prost. The Excelsior Hotel and the Paris-Maroc department store are two examples of the new constructions that were erected in the square. The clock tower, which united the old and modern Casablanca, vanished in 1948 and was restored with a replica in 1993.

Nearby, across Rue Felix et Max Guedj is St John’s Church, the first Protestant church to be founded in Casablanca (1906). It was built on land owned by the British Crown and it is the oldest church building in the city.

The Medina Market is not as exciting as the ones in Marrakesh or Fes. This is still a traditional Moroccan medina, worth visiting if you don’t plan to go to other bigger cities, but apart from a couple of shops at its southern side, the neighbourhood is only a collection of somehow rundown residential buildings. Be careful about aggressive selling techniques and people promising to show you the way out. They will just lead you to their friend’s shop and ask for a tip.

Inside the walls of the Medina, there are also some interesting mosques, such as the Great Mosque, and the Ould el-Hamra Mosque (erected under Sultan Muhammad III bin Abdellah in 1789). There are some Jewish temples too. The Ettedgui Synagogue was bombarded by the Allies in November 1942 during the Naval Battle of Casablanca and the reconstruction started in 2011. The Beth-El Synagogue in the Jewish quarter is considered the centrepiece of a once vibrant Jewish community. It can be only visited if you are Jewish.

You might end the day at Rick’s Café, which is a restaurant, bar and cafe, opened in 2004 and designed to recreate the bar made famous by Humphrey Bogart and Ingrid Bergman in the movie classic Casablanca. Despite the title, the movie wasn’t filmed in Morocco but in Hollywood.

Day 2

I kicked off the day with a leisurely early morning walk in Arab League Park. Very well-maintained place with pathways lined with palm trees and neatly manicured bushes and plants. At the centre is a gorgeous fountain. Lots of space for people to stroll, jog, walk their dogs, and for children to play.

Near the park stands Sacred Heart Cathedral. Actually, it never was a cathedral, as Casablanca is not the seat of a bishopric. There was a sizeable Catholic community in town during the Protectorate times and French architect Paul Tournon designed the church in Art Deco style. Construction began in 1930 and finished in 1953. The country’s Catholic population began to fall three years later, in 1956, when Morocco achieved its independence. As a result, the edifice was no longer used as a church. Most probably you will only see it from the outside as it seems to be permanently closed for renovation.

Another place which is very close to the park is the Villa of Arts. It’s a cultural centre in a 1934 art deco villa, presenting contemporary art exhibitions and events. In my opinion, the building is more interesting than the art itself but of course, it’s a matter of taste 🙂

Mohammed V Square is one of the most lively places in town, especially on the weekends. You will see hundreds of pigeons hanging around (and as a result many objects covered in their shit) and locals feeding them. The square itself is surrounded by some magnificent buildings with traditional designs and rich history: Casablanca Court of First Instance, Poste Maroc and Bank Al-Maghrib.

Other buildings with interesting designs and facades, a bit further away from the square are Café La Princière, Hotel Amouday, Hotel Transatlantique and Hotel Volubilis.

Abderrahman Slaoui Foundation Museum bears the name of a Moroccan businessman and art collector who died in 2001. It showcases an amazing assortment of items, including vintage posters, crystal objects, Moroccan jewellery, Jacques Majorelle’s landscape paintings, Muhammad Ben Ali Rabati’s figurative paintings and much more.

Central Marketplace is an indoor hall built in the early 1900s, known for its selection of seafood. You will be approached by local sellers as soon as you enter it and each of them will do their best to drag you to the restaurant. Be careful as I heard that sometimes unwanted dishes appear on the table (e.g. salad) and the total amount of the bill can increase rapidly. If you notice such a manner, don’t touch the dish and strongly say that they should take it back.

Church of Notre Dame of Lourdes is a modernist Roman Catholic church, about 20 minutes walk from the Arab League Park. It was built in 1954 and the main attraction is the glasswork of world-famous stained glass artist Gabriel Loire.

Further away in the Habbous district, you will the Royal Palace. It’s not open to the public but you can’t see much from the street, other than entrance gates. It is regarded as Morocco’s second most famous royal location after the Royal Palace in Rabat and it has hosted important events. These include Hassan II’s meeting with Pope John Paul II in 1985, the first time a pope visited a Muslim nation at the invitation of an Islamic leader, and the fourth summit of the Organization of Islamic Cooperation in 1984.

Mahkama of Pacha is another interesting building to see in that area but watch out for scams. The place is apparently closed but the guards at the entrance tend to ask for about 100 MAD to let you in but it’s just a bribe and not an official ticket.

If you still have time and energy, visit the Museum of Moroccan Judaism. This institution is housed in a lovely garden home formerly used as a Jewish orphanage. It chronicles the 2000-year history of Jews in Morocco, with a focus on Casablanca’s Jewish community which was the biggest.

It is inconveniently located out of the main tourist zone so the best is the take a taxi to get there. The entrance fee is 50 MAD.

Safi’s history dates back to ancient times, with evidence suggesting it was originally a Phoenician trading post. The Romans also left their mark on the city, known to them as Asfi, which served as a small settlement within the Roman Empire.

With the advent of Islam in the 7th century, Safi became part of the Islamic world. The city flourished under the Idrisid dynasty, establishing it as a significant port. During the 12th century, under the Almohads, Safi became a strategic coastal city and a centre for trade and military operations.

In 1508, the Portuguese captured Safi and fortified it as a stronghold. The Portuguese occupation lasted until 1541 when the Saadian dynasty expelled them. Under the Saadians, Safi became a key trading port, particularly for sugar and other goods. The city also served as a point of contact between Morocco and Europe.

During the Alaouite dynasty, Safi continued to thrive as a port city. The 17th and 18th centuries saw further development and the city expanded its role in regional trade.

Safi grew in prominence as a centre for the ceramic industry, with its pottery becoming renowned throughout Morocco and beyond. The city’s port also became a crucial hub for the export of phosphates, textiles, and other goods.

During the French Protectorate (1912-1956), Safi saw infrastructural development and modernization. The port was expanded, and new industries were established.

After Morocco gained independence in 1956, Safi continued to develop economically and culturally. Today, Safi is known for its rich cultural heritage, particularly its ceramics industry, historic architecture, and vibrant local traditions.

How to get there?

From Casablanca:

By Car:

Take the A3 highway from Casablanca to El Jadida, then continue on the N1 road to Safi. The journey is approximately 250 km and takes around 3-4 hours.

By Bus:

CTM and Supratours offer bus services from Casablanca to Safi. The bus ride takes approximately 4-5 hours.

By Train:

There is no direct train to Safi, but you can take a train from Casablanca to El Jadida, and then a bus or taxi to Safi.

From Marrakech:

By Car:

Take the N8 road to Chichaoua, then the R207 road to Safi. The journey is around 150 km and takes about 2-3 hours.

By Bus:

CTM and Supratours operate buses from Marrakech to Safi. The bus ride typically takes 3-4 hours.

From Rabat:

By Car:

Take the A1 highway to Casablanca, then follow the same route from Casablanca to Safi. The total distance is approximately 330 km and takes about 4-5 hours.

By Bus:

Take a bus from Rabat to Casablanca and then transfer to a bus heading to Safi.

By Train:

Similar to the route from Casablanca, take a train to El Jadida, then a bus or taxi to Safi.

From Agadir:

By Car:

Take the N1 road north to Safi. The journey is around 230 km and takes about 3-4 hours.

By Bus:

CTM and Supratours provide bus services from Agadir to Safi. The bus ride usually takes around 5-6 hours.

You may check your connections at 12go.com.

The best time to visit

The best time to visit Safi is during the spring (March to May) and fall (September to November) when the weather is mild and pleasant. Summer can be quite hot, while winter brings cooler but still enjoyable temperatures. Choosing spring or fall ensures a comfortable climate for enjoying the beach and exploring the city and its surroundings.

How long to stay there?

You can comfortably spend half a day in Lalla Fatna Beach and another half walking around Safi.

What to see in Safi?

I reached Safi with shaking legs as the driver of a shared taxi was going over 150 km/h on a single-lane, narrow road along the coast. Insane…

I walked along Corniche de Safi which is a nice little promenade, quite empty during the day but certainly it becomes more alive after sunset. Cleanliness could be improved though. In its northern corner lies Ksar El Bahr, an old fortress which was built at the beginning of the 16th century by the Portuguese. It is now off-limits to tourists due to the damage caused by ocean waves and the lack of maintenance.

The medina can be accessed by various historical and beautiful city gates: Bab El Maasra, Bab Jdid, Bab Agrour, Bab El Kasbah, Bab Chaaba, and Bab Lakouas. Inside the medina, the best thing that you can do is simply lose yourself in narrow streets, trying to find your way out. I’m sure you will discover many interesting corners and photogenic places.

You should do your best to locate the Grand Mosque of Safi and the Portuguese Cathedral. The latter is a ruined temple, that was built in 1519 by the Portuguese. The construction was never completed, and most of the structure was demolished after the departure of the Portuguese King Manuel in 1541. All that remains are parts of the choir and a side chapel. As of November 2023, it was not possible to get inside.

The eastern side of the medina is dominated by Dar al-Sultan, also known as the High Kasbah. It is a castle that dates back to the Almohad period and is more than 700 years old. It contains a wall and four towers to monitor any possible external invasion. There is nothing to see inside the building.

Outside of the medina walls is a well-presented and informative National Museum of Ceramics, presenting the history of pottery from different parts of Morocco.

From the National Museum of Ceramics, turn left into Avenue Moulay Idriss 1er to reach the roundabout with the large monument of the tagine, a North African dish, named after the earthenware pot in which it is cooked. It symbolizes the pottery crafts of Safi.

Lalla Fatna Beach

Lalla Fatna Beach is situated approximately 10 km north of Safi, making it easily accessible for visitors staying in or around the city. The beach is known for its rugged coastline, featuring striking rock formations and cliffs that provide a dramatic backdrop to the sandy shores. The beach is popular among surfers due to its consistent waves and good surfing conditions. There are just basic facilities with one small bar.

You can get a shared taxi to get there from Safi but you will be dropped off at the crossroad and from there, it is about 30 minutes walk down to the beach. On the way back, you will need to hike up to the main road and try your luck with hitchhiking or flagging down a shared taxi. There is no public transport there.

Essaouira, a coastal city in western Morocco, has a rich and diverse history shaped by various civilizations and cultures. Originally known as Mogador, the area has been inhabited since prehistoric times.

The earliest known settlers in the Essaouira region were the Phoenicians, who established a trading post there in the 7th century BCE. The Carthaginians later took control, using the site as an important point for trade with the Berber tribes in the interior.

During the Roman period, the area remained a significant trading hub. Archaeological evidence suggests that Romans traded with the local Berber tribes, exchanging goods such as purple dye made from local murex snails.

In the 7th century, the Islamic conquests reached Morocco, including the region around Essaouira. The area became part of the Islamic world, leading to increased trade and cultural exchange.

During the 11th and 12th centuries, the Almoravid and Almohad dynasties controlled the region. They fortified the area and utilized it as a strategic port, fostering connections across the Islamic world.

In the early 16th century, the Portuguese briefly occupied Mogador, building a fort in 1506. However, they faced strong resistance from local tribes and eventually abandoned the city in 1510.

The Saadian Sultanate in the 16th century used the region for maritime trade. They also built the first true urban settlement at the site, laying the groundwork for its future development.

The modern city of Essaouira was founded in 1764 by Sultan Mohammed ben Abdallah of the Alaouite dynasty. He envisioned it as a major commercial port to strengthen Morocco’s economy. He hired the French architect Théodore Cornut to design the city’s layout, leading to its unique blend of Moroccan and European architectural styles.

Under Sultan Mohammed ben Abdallah, a large Jewish community settled in Essaouira. They played a crucial role in the city’s commercial life, especially in trade between Europe, Africa, and the Middle East. However, by the late 19th century, Essaouira’s significance as a trading port began to wane due to competition from other ports like Casablanca. The decline continued into the early 20th century.

During the French protectorate in Morocco (1912-1956), Essaouira experienced limited development compared to other Moroccan cities. However, it remained an important cultural and fishing centre.

In recent decades, Essaouira has experienced a cultural revival. The city’s historic medina was designated a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2001. It has become a popular tourist destination known for its vibrant arts scene!

How to get there?

By Air:

Essaouira-Mogador Airport (ESU), located about 17 km from the city, is the closest airport. It has limited international flights, mostly from Europe.

Marrakech Menara Airport (RAK) is a major international airport about 180 km from Essaouira. From Marrakech, you can travel to Essaouira by bus, taxi, or rental car.

By Bus:

CTM or Supratours are two reliable bus companies in Morocco. They offer regular services from major cities like Marrakech, Casablanca, and Agadir to Essaouira. The journey from Marrakech takes around 2.5 to 3 hours.

By Car:

The drive from Marrakesh takes about 2.5 hours. Renting a car gives you flexibility to explore along the way.

From Casablanca, the drive takes about 5 hours.

By Taxi:

There are shared taxis that operate between cities. They are less comfortable than buses but can be faster.

By Train:

There are no direct train services to Essaouira. The nearest train station is in Marrakech, from where you would need to take a bus or taxi.

By Organized Tour:

Many travel agencies in major Moroccan cities offer organized tours to Essaouira. These can be a convenient option if you prefer not to arrange transportation yourself.

You may check your connections at 12go.com.

The best time to visit

The best time to visit the city is during the spring (March to May) and fall (September to November) when the weather is mild and pleasant. Summer can be quite hot, while winter brings cooler but still enjoyable temperatures. Choosing spring or fall ensures a comfortable climate for enjoying the beach and exploring the cities and their surroundings.

Where to stay?

I stayed in Hotel Al Arboussas which was perfectly located within the medina. The room and bathroom were clean and everything worked well.

How long to stay there?

One full day is enough to comfortably discover the medina and to take a long walk along the beach.

What to see in Essaouira?

It was a bit cloudy morning in Essaouira but together with the sound of seagulls, it created some special atmosphere. I walked around the centre, passing by lots of lively and enthusiastic street vendors and covered fish market. The smell wasn’t my favourite but damn, it’s an excellent place for photography of people at their work.

I wandered around narrow streets full of shops selling local handicrafts. It’s one of the best things to do in Essaouira… just walk and get lost. Sooner or later you will anyway reach the city walls or one of the impressive city gates that date from the late 18th century and were added to Unesco’s World Heritage list in 2001.

Haim Pinto Synagogue is one of a few such places that survived from the old times when Jews were present in the city. A Beautiful and tiny place. The downstairs is where the rabbi lived and the synagogue was located upstairs. Very close to it is Synagogue Slat Lkahal Mogador, another impressively restored place. It’s free to visit but you can leave a donation. If it’s closed, call the number visible on the door and the caretaker will come to let you in.

Musée Sidi Mohammed Ben Abdellah, housed in an old riad, features a small collection of local jewellery, costumes, needlework, woodcarving, and weapons.

The Portuguese constructed the Old Fortress in the 18th century. It offers a striking perspective of the walls and rooftops of the old medina, and the original canons are still intact. The visitors are welcome to explore them and ascend to see the amazing view.

Bayt Dakira is the most interesting museum in town. It shows the history of Jewish people in Essaouira and how they interacted with the Muslim community. The visit is free. Nearby Gallery Kasbah is truly an art gallery different from other similar places. With a diverse array of artworks, it’s captivating and makes exploration really exciting. Make sure to visit all the floors, especially the rooftop, which boasts a stunning city view. If you have enough space at home, consider purchasing something from their collection! The visit here is free as well.

Horloge d’Essaouira is a pretty clock tower, easy to find as you go through the gateway of Bab Sbaa. There is a lovely little square with trees, cafes and restaurants. The tower is not open to the public.

Bab Sbaa is one of the original and probably the most used city gate today. It is the main entrance if you are coming from the beach or the promenade. The outer area is like a small urban park and also the main pick point for all the local taxis and buses.

Place Moulay Hassan is a big open space with a lot of things happening there throughout the day. There are many gift shops, antique shops, and cafes around. Local musicians and bands come over to entertain crowds.

The port of Essaouira is incredibly atmospheric, loud, and stinky. Boats are arriving and departing frequently, unloading day’s catch and local fishermen repair nets. You can also see traditional wooden boats being. It is worth going to the fish auction which is situated right outside the city gate of Bab El Marsa. You can enter nearby fortifications of the bastion for 50 MAD per person. It’s not a huge space and you can walk around it in 10 minutes. The views of the walled medina and Mogador Island are really charming, especially at sunset with many seagulls in the air.

The Carthaginian navigator Hanno visited and established a trading post on Mogador Island in the 5th century BC, and Phoenician artefacts have been found on the island. More recently it served as a woman’s prison and a quarantine centre. Today it is uninhabited and it’s very difficult to secure permits to land there, as it’s a major breeding site for the Eleonora’s falcon. However, you can arrange boat trips around the island.

Plage d’Essaouira and Plage Tagharte are two beaches that run for a few kilometres with some sand dunes at the far end away from the old town. Unfortunately, they are not the cleanest. If you go close to the umbrellas and camels, then you will get accosted by touts. Stay away unless you intend to use their service. If you are up for a challenge, check the offer of surfing / kitesurfing schools.

Azemmour is a historic town located on the Atlantic coast of Morocco, situated about 75 kilometres southwest of Casablanca and near the mouth of the Oum Er-Rbia River. It has a long history, dating back to the Phoenician and Roman periods. It gained prominence during the Islamic period, especially under the Almohad and Merinid dynasties. The town was known for its strategic importance and was a notable centre for trade and commerce.

In the early 16th century, the town was captured by the Portuguese, who built fortifications and left a lasting architectural imprint. They held Azemmour from 1513 until they abandoned it in 1541. That’s why the town features a mix of Moroccan and Portuguese architecture. Notable landmarks include the old medina with its narrow streets and traditional houses, the Portuguese fortress, and the Kasbah, which offers a panoramic view of the Oum Er-Rbia River.

El Jadida is also a coastal city, located about 17 kilometres south of Azzemour. It is the capital of the El Jadida province in the Casablanca-Settat region.

In 1502, the Portuguese established a fortified city called Mazagan on the site. The fortifications were completed in 1541 and included impressive bastions, ramparts, and a cistern, which remains a notable architectural feature. The city served as an important trading post and military stronghold, playing a crucial role in the Portuguese Empire’s presence in Morocco.

In 1769, after more than 250 years of Portuguese control, the city was recaptured by the forces of Sultan Mohammed ben Abdallah of Morocco. The Portuguese, anticipating the siege, destroyed parts of the fortifications before leaving, but the city was soon rebuilt and renamed El Jadida, meaning “The New”.

In 1912, Morocco became a French Protectorate, and El Jadida, like many other Moroccan cities, underwent significant urban development under French influence. The city’s infrastructure improved, and it continued to thrive as a commercial port.

Following Morocco’s independence in 1956, El Jadida continued to grow and modernize. Today, it is a popular tourist destination known for its historical sites, including the Portuguese Cistern and the old fortress, which are part of the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Portuguese City of Mazagan.

How to get there?

From Casablanca:

By Car:

From Casablanca, drive southwest on the A5 motorway. The distance is approximately 75 kilometres and takes about 1 hour. Take the exit toward Azemmour and follow the signs to the town centre.

By Train:

Take a train from Casa Voyageurs or Casablanca Port stations to Azemmour. The journey usually takes around 1 to 1.5 hours. The Moroccan railway operator ONCF runs frequent trains between these destinations. Once at the Azemmour train station, you can take a taxi to reach the town centre or just walk.

By Bus:

Various bus companies operate services from Casablanca to Azemmour. The trip duration is around 1.5 to 2 hours, depending on traffic and the bus company.

From Azzemour to El Jadida:

By Car:

Drive northeast on the N1 road. The distance is about 17 kilometres and takes approximately 20 minutes.

By Train:

Take a local train from El Jadida to Azemmour. The travel time is around 20-30 minutes. Check the ONCF (Office National des Chemins de Fer) website or visit a local train station for updated schedules and ticket prices.

By Bus:

Some buses go along Boulevard Mohammed V in Azzemour and go all the way to El Jadida. Look for bus stops or ask locals for directions.

By Taxi:

Grand taxis (shared taxis) are available and can take you from El Jadida to Azemmour. The ride is short and inexpensive.

You may check your connections at 12go.com.

The best time to visit

The best time to visit both cities is during the spring (March to May) and fall (September to November) when the weather is mild and pleasant. Summer can be quite hot, while winter brings cooler but still enjoyable temperatures. Choosing spring or fall ensures a comfortable climate for enjoying the beach and exploring the cities and their surroundings.

Where to stay?

I decided to stay in Hotel Dar Aboulanwar in El Jadida which is not in the city centre but easily accessible by taxi for a few dirhams. The room and bathroom were super spacious and impeccably clean!

How long to stay there?

If you start early enough, both cities can be visited comfortably in one long day.

What to see in Azzemour?

I actually decided to ignore all the vigorous taxi drivers at the train station and simply walked to the city centre. First, I made a stop at Mohamed V Bridge, to admire the panorama of the city walls and the Oum Er-Rbia River. Well worth it!

Then I proceed to the medina, which is a highlight of the city. Constructed in the 16th century close to the banks of the Er-Rbia, it still has some of its Portuguese heritage, particularly in the elaborate doors. Locals have a long history of being involved in the arts and handicrafts so you may witness them weaving colourful textiles. It was also much fun to discover enormous murals that cover decaying buildings.

At some point, my peaceful exploring was interrupted by some dude who was following me and kept insisting on being my guide. Super annoying but that is how it works in Morocco so you either have to refuse strongly, or agree but negotiate the price beforehand. He did indeed tell me some interesting facts but of course, the whole ‘tour’ was rushed as he wanted to get rid of me as soon as possible.

We strolled around the Grand Mosque, Kasbah Mosque (fr. Mosquée de la Kasbah) and the Shrine of Rabbi Braham Moul Ness, which comprises several rooms, some subterranean, containing artefacts and books in Hebrew. On the corniche, there are some simple places for tea or coffee with views over the river and fortifications. You can also take a boat trip.

I left medina through the gate towards Av. Allal Ben Abdellah. The city walls on that side were quite impressive. I didn’t have any idea how to get to El Jadida so I simply started walking along Boulevard Mohammed V trying to hitchhike but my presence was totally ignored by all drivers. After 15 minutes, some guy approached me and said that there was a bus stop a few hundred meters away and regular buses head to El Jadida from there. Lucky me!

What to see in El Jadida?

I started exploring the town by walking along the Corniche, with El Jadida Beach to the right. A few people were chilling under umbrellas but at this time of the year (October), it was quite empty. There is Mohammed V Park on the other side of the road but unfortunately, there is lots of trash around.

Then, I walked into the remains of the Portuguese Fortress. Notable structures include the Portuguese Cistern, the Church of the Assumption, and the city’s fortified walls. The main entrance is from the side of Av. de Suez and to the left of the main gate you will see the beautiful door which is the entrance to the old mosque.

The Church of the Assumption is an old Portuguese church from the 16th century, currently transformed into a theatre. It’s rarely open so you rather won’t have the chance to peek inside.

A bit further is the cistern, which was built beneath the Citadel before it was enlarged into the greater walled fortification in 1541. It’s unclear what the chamber’s initial purpose was. It may have served as a granary, armoury, or barracks, but in 1541 it was documented as being transformed into a cistern. It has served as a filming setting for several films, the most well-known worldwide being Orson Welles’ Othello. As of October 2023, the building was closed for renovation.

Go past the Spanish Chapel and continue to the city walls. It’s free to access and it’s fun to walk around, even though it’s not possible to do the full loop.

Ouarzazate is a city in south-central Morocco known for its stunning landscapes, rich history, and significance in the film industry. It is often referred to as the “Gateway to the Desert” as most tourists pass through it on the way to the Sahara.

Moreover, it is home to Atlas Studios, one of the largest film studios in the world. The city has earned the nickname “Hollywood of Morocco” because numerous blockbuster films and TV series have been shot here, including “Gladiator,” “Lawrence of Arabia,” “The Mummy,” and “Game of Thrones”. The area’s diverse landscapes, including the Atlas Mountains and Draa Valley, provide perfect backdrops for filmmakers but also attract tourists looking for hiking, camel trekking, and exploring traditional Berber villages.

A short drive away from Ouarzazate is Skoura, a picturesque town renowned for its extensive palm groves, which are among the most beautiful and well-preserved in Morocco. These groves are irrigated by an intricate system of canals and offer a lush contrast to the surrounding arid landscapes.

The whole area is also home to numerous kasbahs, which were traditionally the residences of local rulers or tribal leaders and served defensive and administrative functions. Typically made of clay, mud brick or stone, kasbahs feature traditional, often ornate architecture, with inner courtyards, gardens and fountains.

How to get there?

To get to Ouarzazate, you have several options depending on your starting point and preferred mode of transport:

By Car

The best option is to rent a car either in Marrakesh or Agadir. There are several interesting places to see en route and the landscape is phenomenal. The distance to Ouarzazate is 192 kilometres (3.5 – 4.5 hours) from Marrakesh and 343 km (5-6 hours) from Agadir.

If you decide to start from Agadir, I recommend using the service of Click’n’Go Car Rental. Amiable guys and easy to contact on WhatsApp. I rented a Renault Clio for the whole month and got a nice price.

Skoura is another 45 km to the east of Ouarzazate.

By Bus

There are buses from Marrakech to Ouarzazate. CTM and Supratours are the most popular transport companies. From Ouarzazate to Skoura the best is to take a shared taxi.

By Shared Taxi

Shared taxis (called “grand taxis”) are available for longer distances. You can take a shared taxi from Marrakech to Ouarzazate and then another shared taxi from Ouarzazate to Skoura.

By Organized Tour

Many travel agencies in Marrakech offer day trips to Ait Benhaddou and Ouarzazate. These tours include transportation, a guide, and sometimes lunch.

The best time to visit

The best time to visit Ouarzazate and Skoura is spring (March to May) and autumn (September to November). The weather is pleasantly warm, with daytime temperatures ranging from 20°C to 30°C. This makes exploring towns, hiking, and enjoying outdoor activities comfortable.

Summers can be scorching, with temperatures often exceeding 40°C. While some travellers can handle the heat, it may be uncomfortable for extended outdoor activities. Winters are mild to cool, with daytime temperatures ranging from 10°C to 20°C. Nights can be quite cold, especially in the desert areas.

How long to stay there?

Both Ouarzazate and Skoura can be visited in one very long day, but it would be smart to stay overnight in the area and plan some time to see Ait Benhaddou.

What to see in Ouarzazate?

Atlas Studios

You need to join a guided tour of the studio if you wish to go inside and see many film sets and props that remain in place. I honestly found it hard to believe that all those weird and a bit kitschy constructions were used in some high-budget movies.

The business was started in 1983 by Mohamed Belghmi. Since then, it has been able to grow because the area closely resembles the natural habitats of many different countries.

Films and TV series that have used the services of the studio include The Jewel of the Nile, The Living Daylights, The Mummy, Gladiator, Kingdom of Heaven, Asterix & Obelix: Mission Cleopatra, Babel, Game of Thrones, Atlantis, Vikings, Prison Break, The Old Guard and others.

Cinema Museum

They have vintage film sets, props, and equipment from films shot in Ouarzazate. You are free to roam around the place as you like, no guide is needed. Since this is a museum of cinema, having video screens playing clips from the different movies that were filmed here or documentaries about their creation would have greatly improved the experience.

Taourirt Kasbah

A UNESCO World Heritage site, this impressive kasbah was once a prominent stronghold of the Glaoui family. It is one of the most striking and well-preserved specimens of its sort, the building is mostly constructed of rammed earth and mud brick. Unfortunately, it was closed during my visit in November 2023 due to the damage caused by the earthquake.

There is a parking on the other side of the street, in front of the building but don’t let them rip you off as certainly they will try to do so. Just have some small money with you.

Old Synagogue

The place contains a very old synagogue and the rabbis’ quarters which also serve as a museum for Jewish artifacts from across Morocco. I spent about half an hour exploring with the guide. Of course, in the end, he asked for a tip for his service and once I gave him that, then he asked again for a donation to maintain the place. It leaves some bitter feeling but that’s the way they do business in Morocco. Don’t miss the view from the rooftop terrace, where you can get a panoramic view of the Kasbah and the mountains.

Taourirt Mosque

A mosque located a few steps away from the old synagogue. The streets around are picturesque but they are full of children who run after you begging for money or sweets so it’s impossible to discover this in peace.

Place Mouahidine

Main square which comes alive at night with street vendors, musicians and entertainers rolling in. Zero hassles from anyone which is a nice difference after visiting Marrakesh.

Barrage El Mansour Eddahbi

The location is made up of a sizable reservoir that was created in 1972 when a hydroelectric dam was built on the Oued Drâa.

Finnt Natural Oasis

A lovely little oasis off the beaten path, consisting of a deserted village strung out alongside the river. The inhabitants seem to move to the newer part on the other side of the river.

What to see in Skoura?

Palmeraie de Skoura

There are more than 70,000 palm, fig, almond, and pomegranate trees in this enormous desert garden. This terrain is very fruitful since it has numerous canals and channels that are supplied by the Hajaj and Madri rivers. These two rivers receive their water from the mountains in the High Atlas and carry enough water to replenish the nearby aquifers. Many kasbahs are scattered across Skoura Palmeraie, making exploration very exciting.

Kasbah Amridil

All kasbahs start to look the same after a while, but I think what makes this one stand out is the amount of the structure that is original and the beautiful surroundings of the old village and palm groves. Kasbah Amridil is one of Morocco’s most famous and well-preserved structures, which is even featured on the 50 dirham banknote. It was constructed in the 17th century as an Islamic school, known in Morocco as a Zaouia, to teach the Quran.

There are two entrances with access to different parts and each costs separately. Apparently, they are owned by two brothers who fight for money. Family, huh?

Skoura Balades

If you are looking for a guide in Skoura to explore the area by hiking or cycling, this is an excellent choice. They can provide you with information about agriculture, irrigation, and local traditions or even take you further to the Gorges of Sidi Flah.

Kasbah Sidi El Maati

One of the hidden kasbahs in the area. Not so easy to find, as you have to cross the riverbed and continue further on a gravel road. You may find locals willing to show you the way or even accompany you for a tip.

Musée Memoire de Ouarzazate

Interesting place to get some background info on traditional lifestyle but I was asked 50 DM at the end of the 15-minute tour which I believe was way too much. Maybe I was unlucky with the guide as I felt I didn’t learn anything.