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In Indonesia April 1, 2020

Hiking Mount Semeru (3.676m) – the highest volcano on Java

Semeru is a stratovolcano, which with its 3.676 meters above sea level, can be called the roof of Java. The mountain is also known as Mahameru, meaning ‘The Great Mountain’. The name originates from the Hindu cosmology’s mountain of Meru or Sumeru, the place where gods reside.

It’s a popular hiking destination that provides you with a feeling of real adventure. In the end, you are walking on an active volcano! The activity can be noticed many times, especially when you see volcanic ash coming out of the crater at the summit. On the way up the mountain, you start thinking about how it will look up there. Is it even safe?

Semeru has a long history of eruptions and can be periodically closed for hikers. I was there in August 2019 and felt perfectly safe. Needless to say, care has to be taken on the last kilometers when walking on the steep and exposed slope and later when wandering around the summit. Most probably you will witness small eruption when volcanic ash goes into the air just a few meters from you but that’s the part of the game and the factor that attracts so many tourists. Just don’t come too close to avoid breathing it in. Everyone wants to have a selfie with a small eruption in the background and it happens every 20-30min!

Everything you need to know before you go

Technical details

Summit: 3,676 meters above sea level
Altitude gain: 1,576 meters
Distance: 42 km return
Ranu Kumbolo Lake campsite: 2,400 meters above sea level (10.5 km from the starting point)
Kalimati campsite: 2,700 above sea level (7.5 km from Ranu Kumbolo Lake)
Final ascent: 3 km one way from Kalimati campsite
My difficulty rating: medium / hard

Best time to go

The dry season, which is the best time for the hike, starts from late April and lasts until November. During the rainy season from January to late April the trail to the summit may be closed but most importantly going there can be dangerous. It’s also the time to restore the ecosystem of the area.

Hiking Mount Semeru — Panoramic views on the way to the summit

How to get there?

We did the route Malang – Tumpang – Ranu Pane. The first leg was really straightforward as we ordered a taxi via the Grab mobile app. Just tell the driver to take you to the jeep’s departure point. Both Grab and Gojek are great ways to get around Indonesia. They work in the same way as Uber but very often have more options available. You can literally order delivery of anything you can imagine!

Being the only hikers there, we waited well over an hour for other people to join in order to lower the costs of jeep ride. Unfortunately, no one came. After bargaining, it cost us 150.000 IDR per person. The rule is simple – the bigger the group, the lower the cost per person is. They charge per vehicle and as it was only two of us, we had to pay a bit more.

Required documents

Medical check – must be obtained from the local hospitals or public health facilities 1 day before the hike. It’s an easy procedure – they just check your weight, high, blood pressure and ask about your general condition. I don’t remember the exact cost, but it was around 20.000-40.000 IDR. We did it in Malang 1 day prior to the hike but you may also do it in Tumpang or even Ranu Pane village.

Passport / ID copy – Photocopy of official identity document that is still valid. For hikers who are less than 17 years old, parents’ approval has to be signed and stamped (6.000 IDR fee) together with a photocopy of parents’ passport / ID.

Registration form – confirmation of online registration or the document filled in the office in Ranu Pane.

Bookings and prices

Registration for the permit can be done through the website of Bromo Tengger Semeru National Park. Just follow the online booking registration flow, make a payment and wait for the confirmation email. The national park puts a limit of 600 people entering the trail every day, that’s why in high season it’s better to make the booking and secure a spot. Don’t forget to do it at least 3 days before the start of the hike.

There was a problem with processing the payment with my credit card, so if you have the same issue, just take enough cash and pay in the office in Ranu Pane. Apparently, if you don’t make a payment as soon as 5 hours after registration, it will be canceled. Even though, we didn’t have any problems explaining to the ranger that the payment couldn’t be processed and he accepted cash.

Ticket prices for Indonesians:

Working Day 19.000 IDR per person per day

Holidays 24.000 IDR per person per day

Ticket prices for Foreigners:

Working Day 210.000 IDR per person per day

Holidays 310.000 IDR per person per day

Briefing

After picking up the permit in the rangers’ office, you will be invited to the briefing. They explain the route, location of the campsites and some safety tips to keep in mind. One rule is especially worth remembering: whatever you bring in, bring it out with you. There are no rubbish bins and unfortunately, trash can be found around campsites. Indonesia has a big problem with rubbish and makes sure not to leave anything behind. Simply throw it away in Ranu Pane village.

Itineraries

2 DAYS 1 NIGHT

You will walk 42 km in two days and the second one will be especially tiring. Do it only if you are an experienced hiker in decent shape. We did it this way and it was fine, though one extra day to enjoy nature wouldn’t hurt. The campsite at Ranu Kumbalo Lake is only 3 hours walk away from Ranu Pane, that’s why it seemed unreasonable to stay there for the night and we pushed to the end instead.

Day 1: Ranu Pane – Ranu Kumbalo Lake – Kalimati campsite
Day 2: Kalimati campsite – Semeru summit – Kalimati campsite – Ranu Kumbalo Lake – Ranu Pane

3 DAYS 2 NIGHTS

The most popular and optimal version of the hike, giving you more time on the side of nature, taking all the sights at a slower pace. Good idea if you have more time to spend in the national park.

Day 1: Ranu Pane – Ranu Kumbalo Lake – Kalimati campsite
Day 2: Kalimati campsite – Semeru summit – Kalimati campsite – Ranu Kumbalo Lake
Day 3: Ranu Kumbalo Lake – Ranu Pane

4 DAYS 3 NIGHTS

The very long and chilling version of the hike, for me it would be a bit too long though. But if you are with a group of friends, why not 🙂

Day 1: Ranu Pane – Ranu Kumbalo Lake – Kalimati campsite
Day 2: Kalimati campsite – Semeru summit – Kalimati campsite
Day 3: Kalimati campsite – Ranu Kumbalo Lake
Day 3: Ranu Kumbalo Lake – Ranu Pane

With or without a guide?

Taking a guide is not necessary at all. The trail to Kalimati campsite is very easy to follow, there is a lot of people, small stalls selling food and drinks so it’s impossible to get lost. For the final summit push just follow the lights of other hikers and you will be fine as well.

Equipment

Here is my basic packing list for the hike:

Camping: tent, sleeping bag, sleeping mat, gas cooker, cooking pot, lighter.
If you don’t have your own equipment, you can easily rent it everywhere in Ranu Pane.
Clothes: thermals, t-shirts, shorts, long pants, warm sweater/hoodie, gloves, hat, socks, underwear, hiking shoes, jacket.
Don’t underestimate the weather. Even if it’s warm and nice in Tumpang or even Ranu Pane, the nights at the campsites will be cold as well as final ascent on exposed terrain.
Headlamp and spare batteries, hiking poles, sunglasses.
Good light is essential as you will be walking hours in the night. Hiking poles are extremely useful on the last kilometers of the steep summit push so it’s good to have at least one.
First aid kit, basic medications, suncream.
Food
Don’t take too much. Indonesia won’t leave you with an empty stomach. There are small stalls on the way where you can buy fruits, drinks, snacks. You will support the local community and keep your backpack lighter.
Camera

Accommodation in Ranu Pane

There are many accommodation options in the village and the best is to text them through Whatsapp or just come to the village and look around. We chose Thomas Sanjaya Homestay which was simple but perfectly sufficient. There was even a hot water shower which is not always the case in Indonesia. They also run a small shop for those willing to buy some extra noodles, cookies or rent a sleeping bag and gas cooker. The nights can get really cold in the region, giving us a feeling that next night in the tent for sure won’t be too warm!

On the trail – 2 days 1 night

Day 1: Ranu Pane village – Ranu Kumbolo Lake – Kalimati campsite (15km, 5-6h)

Stage 1: Ranu Pane village to Ranu Kumbolo Lake (3-3.5h)

Around 7 am the guesthouse started to be busy with climbers getting breakfast and preparing for departure. The breakfast didn’t surprise – it was a simple nasi goreng (fried rice) with egg. I could say a lot about nasi goreng but let’s just underline that it is absolutely the most popular meal for budget travelers and I had it nearly every day 🙂

At around 8 am we were already on the way. First, following asphalt road to the gate of the national park where our permits were checked and then passing through cabbage fields into the forest. Surprisingly, I realized that taking so much food with us was absolutely not necessary. Why? There are warungs (little stalls) on the way! They sell fruits, cakes, drinks and of course fried rice or fried noodles. You can make a stop there and refill your energy, supporting local people running a rather challenging business. They have to descent back to the village every day and then go up again in the early morning, very often simply carrying products on their backs.

Mt Semeru still looked very far away and we admired its graceful shape from the distance when suddenly the cloud of volcanic ash appeared growing just at the summit! It looked totally amazing and it was the first time for me to actually see a small volcanic eruption. It has a long history of eruptions and since 1967 it is in a state of near-constant activity. Small eruptions can happen even every 20 minutes! While it’s an additional advantage that boosts your adrenaline, for your own safety you should never go off the hiking trail.

After 3 – 3.5 hours since departure from Ranu Pane, we arrived at Ranu Kumbolo Lake. There is a beautiful campsite there at the lakeside and obviously some warungs as well. Swimming in the lake isn’t allowed as the water is used for drinking and cooking. I regret a little bit that we didn’t stay there for an extra night. Next time!

Stage 2: Ranu Kumbolo Lake to Kalimati campsite (2-2.5h)

After a lunch break for cooking instant noodles and relaxation at the lake, we continued along much more steep part of the trail leading through forest and grasslands to Kalimati campsite. Here the backpack started to be really heavy and I was glad to have my trekking poles for extra support. Before, we could see Mount Semeru only occasionally, but now it’s getting closer and closer.

Around 2 – 2.5 hours later I was already setting the tent. The campsite was full of friendly hikers, everyone busy with cooking. If you are short on water, there is a source around 15 min walk from the campsite. Just ask locals for directions.

Having in mind that the night will be short, we tried to get some unstable sleep before the alarm woke us up at midnight.

Day 2: Kalimati campsite – Semeru summit – Kalimati campsite – Ranu Kumbolo lake – Ranu Pane

Stage 1: Kalimati campsite to Semeru summit (4-5h)

The nights at Kalimati campsite can get really cold and the best is to have your own sleeping bag as the rented ones are rather thin. Good idea is to have a thermal layer as well.

We started preparing our breakfast to warm up and feel some energy boost. Most of our things stayed inside the tent and we departed carrying a small backpack with water, snacks, a camera and an extra layer of clothes. Most of the people hit the trail between 00:00 – 01:00 am, so did we. There was a group saying that they want to depart as early as 10:00 pm but I think it’s way too early. Reaching the summit too early leaves you with nothing else to do than wait and get cold. Leave at midnight if you are slower and want to see the sunrise from the summit. If you are faster or it’s enough for you to see the sunrise on the way (which is awesome anyway), then 01:00 – 01:30 am would be enough.

I could imagine that the trail is difficult to follow if you go solo, but there were plenty of other hikers getting ready at the same time so we simply followed them. With everyone equipped with head-light, it looked like a moving dotted line in the middle of dark night.

From the campsite, we went into the forest but it didn’t take long to reach infamous volcanic ash and start of the crazy long and slow ascent. So glad that I had my hiking poles! With every 2 steps up, you pretty much slide 1 step down. It’s steep, it’s tiring, it’s cold and it may be very windy due to exposed terrain. You also have to be careful of loose stones rolling down the slope as people walk in front of you. Maybe it’s better that we walked in the darkness? At least we pushed forward not knowing how far we are from the summit.

Ok, I don’t want to scare you out! It’s definitely not easy but it’s doable. Just pace yourself properly and take breaks if you are running out of breath.

The summit is flat and there is a lot of space to take nice pictures and absorb the views. It’s worth following the trail along the ridge closer to the crater. Being the highest mountain on Java, panorama from Semeru’s top is simply spectacular. We also had a nice chat with a group of Indonesians that treated us with warm ginger drink and a soup! Having something warm in hands when resting on the summit after long and tiring ascent was exactly what we needed.

But the best point was witnessing 2 small eruptions that happened just in front of us. Exactly the same style as we saw the day before but this time we were only a few meters away. The cloud was growing and taking its shape, hanging in the air and slowly drifting away. The whole spectacle reminds of frequent volcanic activity and the power of nature in Indonesia. In the case of Semeru, eruptions like that usually happen every 20-30 minutes so just hang around and wait for it. Be ready for one of a kind pictures opportunity!

Stage 2: Semeru summit to Ranu Pane village (6-8h)

After conquering the summit in 5 hours, the way down to the camp took us… less than 1.5 hours. Using heels and sliding all the way down is the most effective and fastest way to descent. When turning around, it was hard to imagine that we really went up this steep trail in the middle of the night.

We did an hour break to cook breakfast, pack all the things and then continued way back to Ranu Pane. After reaching Ranu Kumbolo Lake I started to feel really tired and made breaks more often to take off the backpack and let my shoulders rest for a while. We arrived at the village totally exhausted but extremely satisfied.

The last step was to organize jeep transportation back to Tumpang and from there taxi to the hotel in Malang. As always in Indonesia, negotiate your price and try to join a group of other hikers to split the costs. We couldn’t find anyone and after tough haggling, the driver took us for 200 IDR / person.

In Australia March 21, 2020

The Tiwi Islands: discover the Aboriginal culture

The Tiwi Islands, known as ‘the islands of smiles’, are definitely off the beaten track for tourists visiting Northern Territory. The main settlements are on Melville and Bathurst Islands, located around 80 km off the coast from Darwin where the Timor and Arafura seas meet. Other 9 islands are much smaller. The population size is around 2500 people, nearly 90% of whom are Aboriginal.

It is believed that Aboriginal people have lived in the area known today as Tiwi Island for at least 40,000 years.

Tiwi Islands, Northern Territory, Australia

First European settlement (British) was established in 1824 but lasted only 5 years due to hostilities. in 1910 the whole Bathurst Island was declared as Aboriginal reserve and Catholic missionaries moved in. Needless to say, it had a significant impact on local culture and created an interesting mix that exists nowhere else in Australia. The traditional church can still be seen in Wurrumiyanga, just next to the ferry pier.

The islands were handed back to the Indigenous owners and today are governed by Tiwi Islands Land Council.

How to get there?

Visiting the Tiwi Islands and going anywhere further than the main settlement Wurrumiyanga at Bathurst Island requires a permit from the Tiwi Islands Land Council and rather isn’t popular among tourists.

Therefore, the best way is to go for a full-day tour or just buy a return ticket for the ferry operated by SeaLink and go independently. A permit is not needed in such cases. Obviously, I opted for the second option and it was great, though to fully learn about Aboriginal culture, a local guide would be beneficial.

Ferry tickets cost 60 AUD one way while organized tours can cost between 190 AUD to 350 AUD.

Ferry travel time is 2.5 hours each way. Check SeaLink schedule as they don’t go every day (at the time of writing it is Thursday, Friday and Sunday).

The ferry leaves Darwin at 11:15 am and departs on the way back at 3:15 pm so you will have less than 2 hours at the island. That’s not much, but enough to get the feeling of this community and have a walk around to visit art galleries and museum.

Much more expensive alternative is taking a flight. It takes 30 min to get to Bathurst Island from Darwin but it comes with the price of 175 AUD one way.

Art & Culture

Aboriginal people living on the island are known for their unique arts and crafts scene. It’s a perfect place to purchase souvenirs and items to decorate your home: pottery, wood carvings, pained shells but also textiles and clothing.

There are three art centres, museum, the old Catholic mission precinct and Pukamani (burial) poles in the cemetery, all within walking distance in Wurrumiyanga.

Patakijiyali Culture Museum

Amazing place to dive into thousands of years old and rich Aboriginal culture. Beautifully crafted rooms display traditional art and sculptures depicting Dreamtime stories as well as old photographs, history of Catholic mission, WWII times, local athletes, flora and fauna that can be found on the islands.

Tiwi Design

They produce ochre paintings on canvas and bark, ironwood carvings, screen-printed fabrics, ceramics and bronze and glass sculptures.

Traditional Church

When I’m there, the place is full of worshippers, guests, curious tourists…and dogs cheerfully running around everyone. The wedding was about to take place. It looked like a big deal as the whole village gathered here to celebrate. Art centres were temporarily closed and the museum was open but left without any supervision.

It was definitely the highlight of my trip to Bathurst Island and an amazing opportunity to take great photographies of the people. Moreover, I felt very welcome in the Aboriginal community.

Nguiu Catholic Church Precinct

The Catholic Church precinct was established by Bishop Francis Xavier Gsell MSC in 1940. It includes timber made buildings such as St Therese’s Church, Presbytery and a radio shack.

Cemetery & Pukamani poles

Pukumani poles (also known as tutini) are made from carved wood and painted with natural pigments presenting a deceased person’s life and spiritual journey. Then, they are placed around the burial site as it is believed that the spirit may be present near the body. Rituals involving dance, music, and art are performed at the gravesite to guide the spirit into the afterworld. Painted lines and dots are also applied to the bodies of the living to make them invisible for the spirit. After the ceremony, the burial poles are left to decay.

The ritual originates from the Dreamtime story of Purrukapali and explains how death appeared in Tiwi culture through love, betrayal and rage.

Purrukapali had a wife named Bima and a son named Jinani. One day Bima left their son under the shade of a tree so she could spend some time alone with her lover, Purrukapali’s brother. Unfortunately, the time was passing fast and the shade disappeared leaving young Jinani exposed to the burning sun and imminent death.

Purukaparli was so devastated that he attacked and wounded his brother who flew into the sky and became the moon. Then, he took up his son and carried him in his arms as he walked into the sea towards his own death. At this moment, he declared that no one would avoid death. Bima became the curlew bird, whose wailing cries can be heard at night.

Football mania

Australian rules football was introduced by missionaries and it’s definitely the most popular sport on the islands. Every March, Tiwi Islands Football League final is celebrated at Wurrumiyanga on Bathurst Island which brings thousands of spectators. The teams compete during the wet season, from October to March.

Was it worth coming?

Definitely yes. Even though my time on the island was very limited by the ferry schedule, I had the chance to get to know Aboriginal culture even more and understand their art and beliefs. Without doubts, the highlight was the wedding, where I could see the whole village gathering to celebrate together. Due to the isolation from mainland Australia, the community is bonded together and such events make it very visible.

In Hiking March 15, 2020

10 Great Walks of New Zealand

There are endless hiking possibilities in New Zealand and if you nature enthusiast, that’s the perfect country for you. I prefer camping, however, with the network of more than 950 backcountry huts operated by the Department of Conservation (DOC), carrying your own tent all the way is not always needed.

10 tracks with the status of the Great Walk are multiday adventures located in the most scenic landscapes in the country and providing hikers with good facilities. My story with them is rather simple. I went for one (Tongariro Northern Circuit) and I knew that I want to complete all of them.

North Island

Tongariro Northern Circuit

Distance: 41 km

Time: 2-4 days

Definitely my favorite walk on the North Island. It was also my first Great Walk after arrival to New Zealand so I’m still sentimental about it. Being a loop, there is no hassle with extra transportation so it’s also budget-friendly.

I was extremely lucky with the weather and even though I initially planned the hike for 3 days, I finished it in 2 days which is perfectly doable but tiring. Do it in 3 days or 4 days if you like a more relaxed pace.

The track meanders through the rugged volcanic landscape with cones of Mt Tongariro, Mt Ruapehu and Mt Ngauruhoe around you. It includes most of Tongariro Crossing which is a day hike done by most of the tourists coming to Tongariro National Park and this section can get crowded.

Don’t miss Blue Lake, Tama Lakes and Taranaki Falls as side trips. They are all worth it!

Tongariro National Park, New Zealand — Tongariro National Park

Read the full description of the track.

Lake Waikaremoana Track

Distance: 46 km

Time: 2-3 days

The track follows the shoreline of Lake Waikaremoana and if fairly easy except quite a steep uphill section between Onepoto and Panekire Hut (if walking from Onepoto) or Waiopaoa Hut and Panekire Hut (if walking from Hopuruahine Landing). Rainforest, waterfalls, beaches – you have it all here. Just don’t forget your swimwear!

I started the track at Onepoto and in this way covered the more difficult uphill section on the first day.

Whanganui Journey

Distance: 87 or 145 km

Time: 3-5 days

First of all, it’s not a walk. Unless you can walk on the water. If not, then grab a kayak or canoe, pack your things into waterproof containers and paddle your way down the Whanganui River.

The full version is 145 km long, starts at Taumarunui and finished in Pipiriki (5 days). If you are not such a big enthusiast of paddling, start at Whakahoro instead and cut the distance to 87 km (3 days).

It’s worth stopping at the Bridge to Nowhere, that was built in the times when soldiers coming back from World War I were granted land in the area. The land proved too difficult to cultivate and after building the bridge in the middle of the bush, the plans to continue with the road were abandoned. Therefore, today it’s quite a unique tourist attraction in the beautiful scenery.

Whanganui National Park, New Zealand — Whanganui National Park

South Island

Abel Tasman Coastal Track

Distance: 60 km

Time: 3-5 days

The trail goes along the coast and many hikers rate it as one of the easiest of Great Walks. There are several great campsites on the way where you can pitch your tent on the sand and even enjoy the shower. Jumping in the kayak and doing the whole route or only some fragments from the water perspective is a nice and popular alternative. It’s not a loop so at the end of the track, take a water taxi back to the starting point or if you have a couple of more days to spare, walk back via alternative inland track.

I did it over 3 days starting at Marahau and it seems to be an absolute minimum if you want to cover the whole distance. I camped at Onetahuti Bay and Totaranui. For more relaxed experience and longer breaks at the spectacular bays and beaches, plan 4 or 5 days.

There is one really critical tidal crossing at Aweroa that is passable 1.5 hours before and 2 hours after low tide under normal conditional. Therefore, plan your day accordingly and check tides hours online as there is no alternative way. For me, it was one of the most unique and breathtaking spots on the trail. Oystercatchers wandering around looking for food, a huge area with sand shaped by the water, hilly background and adventurous crossing on its own, sometimes with water above my knees.

Heaphy Track

Distance: 78.4 km

Time: 3-6 days

The longest and one of the most diverse of Great Walks. Being located in Kahurangi National Park, it takes not only good shape to tackle it, but you need extra cash to organize logistics. To come back from one trailhead to another, it’s a long bus trip that takes around 5 hours and costs over 100 NZD.

I hiked the track in 3 days. The first one was a mostly uphill walk in the mountainous area and forest. The second day was way flatter and the forest gave place to wide grasslands at the end arriving at the West Coast. On the last day, walking along the beach I got the chance to admire one of the most remote coasts that I have ever seen.

I spent the nights at Saxon and Heaphy campsites and both had superb location.

Outside of the Great Walks season (1 May – 30 November), it’s allowed to go on the track with a mountain bike.

Paparoa Track

Distance: 55 km

Time: 2-3 days

The only Great Walk that I didn’t experience but that’s because it’s a brand new one due to open in the second half of 2020. When I see its location on the West Coast, I have no doubts it’s on my bucket list for the second visit in New Zealand.

The track crosses the rainforest and the Paparoa Range. According to the Department of Conversation (DOC), mountain bikers are allowed as well.

Routeburn Track

Distance: 32 km

Time: 2-3 days

My favorite of 3 Great Walks in Fiordland National Park. It’s short but breathtaking and there are no boring sections. The weather on my first day was simply horrible with pouring rain and strong winds all the way. But if everything is booked…. gotta go 🙂 Luckily, it had a positive side too, as the passing dark clouds were extremely photogenic.

I spent the night at Lake MacKenzie campsite trying to dry my completely wet clothes at least a little bit. Of course, I failed.

The second day was much better and the sun welcomed me as soon as I opened the tent. After a full day of rain, the Earland Falls were so huge that I had to take a detour built for such situations.

It’s a great track for mountain enthusiasts. I recommend making a side trip to Key Summit which takes around 1.5-hour return. Leave your heavy backpack at the crossroad, there is no need to carry the things all the way up.

[update from DOC website as of 15.03.2020 – check regularly for further news]

The Routeburn Track partially reopens from 12 March 2020 as a new walking experience, named Routeburn Return. It’s a 4-day, 3-night hike beginning and ending at the Routeburn Shelter. This return journey starts and finishes near Glenorchy.

Routeburn Return replaces the Routeburn Great Walk, which is closed for the rest of the season due to storm damage.

The Routeburn Return route may be more challenging than the usual route because of changes in elevation and one of the days is longer than a usual Great Walks experience.

Kepler Track

Distance: 60 km

Time: 2-4 days

Being a circuit makes it easily accessible and budget-friendly. I did it over 2 days in a clockwise direction with overnight at Iris Burn but I must say it was pretty challenging and I finished completely exhausted.

The weather conditions in Fiordland National Park are pretty unpredictable which I experienced on the second day. The thin layer of snow was covering the ground and people coming from the other direction said that yesterday they were walking in a snowstorm. I was really lucky that DOC advised me to follow the clockwise direction!

There are limestone caves near the Luxmore Hut that make for a nice side trip. Take a torch!

Milford Track

Distance: 53.5 km

Time: 4 days

Only 40 independent hikers can start the track each day which makes it extremely difficult to book. I did it 4 months in advance, refreshing the page several days hoping for someone to cancel. I got lucky, but it’s also easier for solo travelers.

This time I left the tent in the car as camping on Milford Track is not allowed. Even though it’s only 53.5 km long, you need to stay in all 3 huts on the way. It has pros and cons. I could easily walk such a distance in 3 or even in 2 days. On the other hand, I was ‘forced’ to take it slowly having more time to appreciate nature. Which was just fine. However, the popularity of the track, lack of campsites and additional transport from one end to another, demand quite a big budget as for the hike in the mountains.

And even though it’s my least favorite of Great Walks in Fiordland National Park, there is still a lot to appreciate. Spectacular views from MacKinnon Pass, the highest waterfall in New Zealand – Sutherland Falls (580m) and of course plenty of wildlife.

Rakiura / Stewart Island

Rakiura Track

Rakiura National Park covers around 80% of the island and is home to the least crowded of Great Walks. I booked my camping tickets only 2 days before departure which would rather not be possible on other tracks in the middle of the season.

You will hike along sandy beaches and through the forest but the most interesting part is the chance to see the kiwi. It’s the best place in the whole of New Zealand to see its symbolic bird. Apparently it’s possible even in the daylight! I suggest waking up around midnight, taking headlight (best with the red light mode that doesn’t scare kiwi off) and walking quietly around the camp.

Read the full description of the track.

In Australia March 11, 2020

Palm Valley and Hermannsburg

Hermannsburg

This Aboriginal community is on the way to Palm Valley, therefore its historic precinct is very often visited by organized groups on day tours. It was established in the 1880s as a Lutheran mission by German pastors, hence its name. They constructed characteristical buildings including a church, school and several houses. Today, you can enjoy your time in a tea shop, museum and the Namatjira Gallery.

Albert Namatjira is a world-famous Aboriginal watercolor artist born in Hermannsburg. Due to his art, he gained an appreciation and became the first Aboriginal person to get restricted Australian citizenship allowing him to vote, buy alcohol and claim land rights. In 1953 Namatjira was awarded the Queen’s Coronation Medal and in 1968 he was honored on an Australian postage stamp.

You can admire his works in many museums all around Australia and don’t forget to check the ones in the museum in Hermannsburg Historic Precinct.

Palm Valley

Palm Valley lies within Finke Gorge National Park that covers an area of around 46.000 hectares in Central Australia. Why is it so special? Because it’s like an oasis filled with around 12.000 Red Cabbage Palms after which the valley is named. There is no other place like that in the region and the nearest specimens are 850 km away in Queensland.

Why are there palms on the desert?

One of the very first versions claimed that palms are survivors from prehistoric times when the climate in this region was far more tropical. However, recent studies proved that the same species of palms grow around 1000 north around Mataranka and Katherine. It is believed that the seeds were transported from one place to another by migrating people 15.000 – 30.000 years ago. Why did they move? That remains uncertain and we can only speculate: the rise of sea levels, bushfires, etc.

The theory would, in fact, go in line with Aboriginal legend telling about palm seed brought by the ‘gods form the north’. Is it really possible that the legend survives more than 15.000 years? I don’t know but I like to believe it is. It only adds magical feeling to this already extraordinary place.

Northern Territory, Australia — The landscape around Palm Valley

While Red Cabbage Palms are the main actors in this theatre, there are about 684 species of plants living in Finke Gorge National Park, 30 of them being rare and 16 that can be found only here.

How to get there?

You would need 4WD and I mean it. In many parts of Australia, I managed to access remote attractions with 2WD, just taking it easy and driving on corrugated dirt with care. But here, it certainly wouldn’t be possible. You will drive on a sandy bad of Finke River after all!

Therefore, without high clearance 4WD, I would suggest going for an organized tour as I did. It was a totally hassle-free experience in a 4WD truck and commentary provided by our guide Bluey from Emu Run Experience was probably the biggest advantage! Daily tours depart from Alice Springs and from there it takes around 2 hours to get to the national park. Besides Finke River National Park, they usually stop at Hermannsburg as well.

On the way back we saw 4WD Toyota Hilux in trouble when the driver went too fast and broke suspension which in the result made a puncture in the fuel tank. The fuel leaked out completely in just a few seconds and that was the end of the trip for unlucky ones. Other tourists gave them a lift to Alice Springs where they had to find a mechanic and spare parts and then come back to Palm Valley to fix the car onsite. Difficult Aussie life!

Overnight

If you travel independently you may want to set your camp at the dedicated spot and spend a night in this remote area. It must be an amazing experience and I would certainly do so next time. There are showers, toilets and barbecues provided. Don’t forget to take some cash to pay onsite.

Walks in the area

Arankaia Walk (2 km, 1-hour return) – located in Palm Valley itself it gives you the best opportunity to admire these spectacular plants.

Mpulungkinya Walk (5km, 2-hours return) – the longer version of Arankaia Walk.

Kalarranga Lookout (1.5 km, 45 min return) – easy ascent to the top where I was rewarded by the panoramic view of the national park and surrounding amphitheater of rocks. It’s a breathtaking spot for sunset, so if you camp overnight, get here on time!

Mpaara Walk (5 km, 2 hours return) – it’s a nice walk but also cultural experience describing the mythology of Western Aranda Aboriginal people. The start is at Kalarranga parking.

A few things to remember

Please don’t ignore the guidance provided by Finke River National Park:

Camping is only permitted in the designated camping areas at Palm Valley and along the Finke River at Boggy Hole.
Collect firewood before entering the park.
At Palm Valley, fires are only permitted in designated fire pits.
Pets are not permitted in the National Park.
Rubbish bins are not provided, so take your rubbish with you.
If traveling the Finke River 4WD route, stay on the marked track.
Be careful where you walk and stay on the marked tracks. Young palms can be destroyed by visitors not realizing what they are walking on. The regeneration of the palms is needed for the survival of this population.

Enjoy this beautiful place!

In Articles March 7, 2020

Review: Photobook from Saal Digital

It seemed to me that nowadays we live in a digital world and printing out photos is not that common (at least for the personal use). But in fact, it has never been easier and there is a lot of companies offering similar services. With modern technology and software, we can customize our work, have it printed on the high-quality paper and simply wait for the delivery at home.

Why Saal Digital?

Some time ago, tempted by Facebook ads, I volunteered to test the Saal Digital photobook. The company has conducted an interesting campaign in which I received 200 PLN coupon for creation of my first photobook in exchange for the review. I thought it was worth a try.

Saal Digital is a German photo printing company and besides photobooks, you can make your own coupons, cards, posters, calendars, photo booklets, wall decors, and various photo gifts. Have you ever thought about designing a book with your best photos, either for personal or commercial use? Then the offer of Saal Digital may sound tempting.

In the following review, I will share my impressions about the creation of my first photobook and the final result. I must underline that I am more travel than event photographer and I made the photobook with the aim to store memories rather than creating an album for commercial use.

Detailed parameters of my photobook:

26 pages
28×19,
photo paper glossy
cover: glossy, unpadded
barcode: without barcode

How to start?

We can either use dedicated software, use online creator with automatic layout design or upload the project from external software such as Adobe Photoshop or InDesign. I decided to use dedicated software which was fun to play with.

After designing the pages, all you have to do is send your project to the server, fill in the address details, make the payment and wait for the courier with your package.

It’s worth mentioning that the company offers ICC profiles for soft proofing for download. Thanks to this, you can simulate a printout on your monitor.

Software

Dedicated software can be installed both on Windows and Mac OS. The interface is intuitive, and it didn’t take me more than an hour to have the first draft of my photobook ready. I was playing with several available layouts and templates to choose the one the fits me best. If none of them fulfil your expectations, needless to say, you can create your own.

Delivery

The book is printed and sent from Germany and the delivery shouldn’t take too long. In my case, I had it in my hands only 4 days after ordering. The book was packed into thin foil and cardboard. I thought – is that it? I can see a big space for improvement here to ensure that books are delivered without any damage.

Design & quality

The glossy paper on the cover and inside is of high quality and doesn’t get dirty or leave marks after touching with fingers. All pages seem to be well glued together and I have the feeling I can use the photobook for years without being overprotective.

The photobook can be laid flat, which in my opinion is its additional advantage. Thanks to this, we can view whole photographs. It also prevents damage to the back.

The paper used for printing is Fuji Crystal Archive Album. The thickness of this paper is 0.16 mm. Due to the fact that two sides are glued together, the thickness of one card is 0.34 mm including a layer of glue.

The photos are incredibly detailed, well saturated and I can’t really say a bad word about their quality.

On a negative side, I find it odd to pay more for removal of the small QR code on the back cover. You can remove it for an additional fee of 7.50 USD.

Conclusion

I really enjoyed my experience with the creation of my first photobook and I didn’t expect it to be that simple. Several available layouts fully satisfied my needs and once I had my photos selected, then it was just like putting all the puzzles together. The printing quality was high as well.

I made the photobook to keep the memories from travels and for that purpose, it’s a perfect product. However, giving it a more professional look, especially when it comes to the cover, would significantly increase the cost. Leather or natural linen finish costs 27 USD extra and gift boxes from 30 USD to 67.50 USD.

I would definitely recommend Saal Digital photobook, from the perspective of a non-professional or semi-professional photographer that needs a product that helps to recall memories or serves as a gift for special occasions.

You will find all the information you need on their website: https://www.saal-digital.com/

Please let me know your questions in comments, I would be glad to help!

In Advices March 3, 2020

NZ Great Walks: Packing list

Hiking 1 of 10 New Zealand’s Great walks will bring you close to the best thing this country has to offer. Its nature. But be warned! It’s addictive and most likely the first of your Great Walks won’t be the last. Many people get pulled in by the idea and complete them all. So did I.

It’s a perfect opportunity for beginners in multi-day hiking to test their limits. You will be away for 2-4 days having a glimpse on backcountry experience but you don’t need any hardcore survival skills. Breath-taking scenery will reward even the worst weather. And when you can be alone on a track for quite some, you will certainly meet great people on campsites and in huts.

Before you go, make sure you are well prepared and packed all the essentials!

The art of packing

Packing for long-distance hikes can be a pain, especially for beginners. In the end, we consider many items as essentials that may be useful on the way. But once it’s all packed, we quickly realize the backpack is way too heavy. Believe me, the weight of each extra item on your back will matter when you ascend another hill.

It’s hard to avoid first-timer mistakes and I did learn some lessons on my own skin as well. To be honest, with every next hike, I’m taking less and fewer things. Consider my packing list for New Zealand’s Great Walks but also observe and learn from your own experience.

The list describes the suggested equipment for Great Walks in the summer season. Needless to say, equipment is necessary for harsh winter conditions.

Food

There is nothing that you can buy on the track, therefore whatever you take you with, it needs to last for the entire duration of the hike. To be on the safe side, it’s even recommended to take a supply for an extra day, in case of an unexpected injury or difficult weather conditions.

After a long day of the walk, you want to set up your tent and eat something warm as soon as possible. Prepare high-energy value meal that you can easily heat up. Freeze-dried food is a good idea as it just requires boiling the water, but it’s expensive.

For the first hikes, I used the food produced by Backcountry Cousine. The selection is really big and the meals are tasty but to be honest, I had to buy the bigger pack with a portion for 2 people to be really full. A meal costs around 10-15 NZD.

Whatever you take, the rule is simple. Eat the heaviest stuff first and keep the lightweight meals for last days.

Breakfast:

Bread with jam, honey or peanut butter
Instant cereal with fruits or porridge
Biscuits with jam
Powdered milk
Banana
Tea or coffee

Lunch:

Bread
Cheese
Salami
Humous
Ready to eat sausages
Instant soup
Nuts and dried fruits
Tea or coffee

Dinner:

Instant rice or pasta
Tinned tuna or chicken
Instant soup
Freeze-dried meal
Tea or coffee

Snacks:

Chocolate
Muesli bars
Biscuits
Nuts
Frooze Balls

Equipment

Only if you camp:

Tent
I’m using MSR Elixir 2-Person Lightweight Backpacking Tent. It’s made for 2 people but light construction should satisfy solo travellers as well. It did satisfy me and extra space was awesome!
Sleeping mat
I’m using Sea to Summit Comfort Light Insulated. It’s a 3 season sleeping mat with R-Value 4.2 warmth.

For campsites and huts:

Backpack with a waterproof cover
40-60L should be enough for a multiday hike.
Waterproof bag
Used as extra protection inside your backpack to put electronics and spare clothes inside.
Sleeping bag
It can get cold no matter what time of the year so 3-4 seasons sleeping bag would be perfect. In mid of February, the temperature on Kepler Track dropped to 2C in the night so I was happy my sleeping bag comfort rating was 0C. It’s much warmer if you sleep in a hut, though you still need a sleeping bag as there are only bunk beds with mattresses.
Drinking bottle 1-1.5 L
Water is always available next to the huts and campsites. It’s rainwater, fine for drinking without treatment. If you have doubts, boil it first or use the Sawyer water filter.
Cooking pot
I’m using MSR PocketRocket 2 Mini Stove Kit which proved to be great size and quality.
Gas stove
Sometimes provided in huts, check in advance.
Fuel
Sometimes provided in huts, check in advance.
Plastic cutlery
Cup
Sharp survival knife
Cleaning set
Matches / lighter
Light camera or phone with a camera
Power bank / spare camera battery
Bin bags
Whatever you bring in to the national park, you have to bring it out and throw away when you reach civilization.
Hut/campsite tickets
These have to be picked up at DOC visitor centre before you depart.
Map
Can be found at DOC visitor centre as well.
Earplugs
Useful especially in bunkrooms in huts.

Clothing

It rains quite often in New Zealand, therefore you need to be prepared for changing weather conditions. Not to mention the fact that in February I experienced snow on Kepler Track. Warms and waterproof clothes are essential to increase your comfort on the trail.

Boots that are comfortable and well broken in
Shoes are the most important element of your clothing, especially when hiking in the mountains with a heavy backpack. Your comfort and safety depend on them. Make sure that they are top-class shoes that you trust. For all Great Walks, I used La Sportiva TX5. Even though it took quite a while to break them in, they are extremely light, comfortable and provide great stabilization for my feet.
Raincoat with hood
Trousers
Waterproof over trousers
Jumper or sweater
For cold mornings and evening or even for sleeping in case your sleeping bag is not warm enough.
T-shirt (at least 2)
Long sleeve shirt
Pair of thermals
Shorts
Buff
It’s light and can be worn on the head, neck or wrist.
Flip flops / lightweight shoes for a campsite
You will want to let your feet rest from heavy boots and feel more comfortable while hanging around campsite or hut.
Hiking socks
I recommend taking an extra pair. Nothing is worse than wet feet.
Underwear
Hat
Gloves
Rather for mountain tracks only.
Swimwear
May be useful especially on Abel Tasman Track or Rakiura Track.
Extra clothes for sleeping
Sunglasses

Toiletries

Toothpaste
Toothbrush
Wet tissues
Toilet paper
Hand sanitizer
Soap
There are usually sinks with rainwater next to the huts so you can use them for basic needs.
Small quick-dry towel
May be useful especially on Abel Tasman Track or Rakiura Track.

Safety

Flashlight (headlight is the best)
Spare batteries
First aid incl. antiseptic, pain killers, bandages, blisters kit, personal meds
Insect repellent
Sunscreen
Spare matches / lighter in a waterproof container
Spare set of warm clothes
Whistle
Personal documents (ID, passport) in a waterproof bag

I wouldn’t say that personal locator beacon is really needed on Great Walks. The trail is well marked and it would be difficult to get lost. Before you go, just tell someone about your plans and how long you plan to be on a trail.

Do you have your favourite items that you take with you on multiday hikes? Let me know in the comments!

In Europe February 29, 2020

Międzyzdroje & Woliński National Park

Trip to Gryfino to the Włóczykij Travel Festival was also my first visit to the West Pomeranian Voivodeship. I have never travelled too much around Poland. This time, covering nearly 400 kilometres one way, I decided to take the opportunity to explore the area: Szczecin, Świnoujście, as well as Międzyzdroje and Woliński National Park, to which I will devote this article.

Międzyzdroje

A seaside town located on the island of Wolin in the northwestern part of the country. The island is surrounded by the waters of the Baltic Sea, the Szczecin Lagoon and the rivers Dziwna and Świna. Very popular among tourists, especially in the summer.

Until the turn of the 19th and 20th century, Międzyzdroje was a small fishing village. At that time, however, the first spa facilities began to appear, bringing more and more tourists and patients.

In February life goes on slowly. Booths with waffles, ice cream, fries, casseroles and everything else that tourists like the most are still closed and waiting for the beginning of the season. I pass many attractions that are focused on families with children: Wax Museum, Miniature Park, 7D Cinema, Labyrinth of Mirrors, Planetarium. They often look quite kitschy and they probably are. I am seriously wondering if I would like to be here this summer.

Beach

The most interesting attraction in the city is the wide beach, perfect for long walks. The more to the east, the higher the cliffs towering above it, overgrown by forests belonging to the Wolin National Park.

Pier

I have no idea what is exciting about a walk on the pier. Maybe because I have access to it every day in Gdańsk. In Międzyzdroje, the first wooden bridge was built in 1885. It was repeatedly destroyed by the sea and warfare. Currently, the pier is 395 meters long and after expansion in 2004, it is also a marina for cruise ships. Its concrete construction, however, gives a rather gloomy impression. Souvenir stalls and pubs reign before the entrance.

Aquarium

A three-level, modern facility near the entrance to the pier, commissioned in 2019. Tourists can admire, among others sharks, rays, octopus, jellyfish and eels and go through a 16-meter glass half-tunnel. Opinions about this place are mixed, especially when it comes to the ratio of the size of the place to the price. A normal ticket costs as much as 45 PLN, a reduced ticket 35 PLN.

Promenade of stars

The first palm prints were made in 1996 on the occasion of the Festival of Stars. They were submitted by artists such as Beata Tyszkiewicz, Krystyna Janda, Maja Komorowska, Bogusław Linda, Daniel Olbrychski, Janusz Gajos, Jarosław Jakimowicz, Zbigniew Zamachowski and Zbigniew Preiser. Today in Międzyzdroje there are already over 100 handprints of more or less distinguished representatives of Polish culture.

Woliński National Park

Definitely the most interesting part of my stay in Międzyzdroje and surroundings. The national park was created in 1960 and is located on the largest Polish island – Wolin. The most attractive places in the park are the cliff coast, the Świna delta and the lakes. The park covers 10.937 hectares and it is a very pleasant area for long walks.

Mount Gosań

The highest cliff of the Polish coast (93 m a.s.l.) located about 4 kilometres from Międzyzdroje. It’s best to get there on foot, but you can also park the car park 600 meters away from the viewpoint.

Museum of Woliński National Park

5 exhibition halls with dioramas depicting flora and fauna occurring in the national park. A normal ticket costs PLN 7, a reduced ticket PLN 5.

Zielonka Hill

A short walk from the parking lot rewards tourists with the beautiful panorama of the Szczecin Lagoon, the backwaters of the Reversed Delta of Świna and the waters of the Wicko Wielkie Lake. Visible islands are mainly wetlands and close to 150 species of birds nest in their area. They were created as a result of moving sand and mules through the reverse current of the river during strong winds blowing from the north.

Turquoise Lake

Located about 6 km from Międzyzdroje, it is the remains of a chalk mine that operated until 1954. Because of the white chalky bottom and the light reflection, it has a unique green colour.

Mount Kawcza

The vantage point rising 56.9 m a.s.l. is a popular destination for walks in Międzyzdroje. It offers a view of the city, pier and of course the waters of the Baltic Sea. It’s best to get there along the black trail departing from Campingowa Street and return along the beach along the red trail (about 1.5 km in total).

Kikut Lighthouse

Located on the red trail, about 11 km from Międzyzdroje. The lighthouse is fully automated and inaccessible to visitors.

Bisons Show Farm

The resort is located in a forest, on a green walking trail, about 1.5 km from the city centre. The main attraction is, of course, bison. In addition, you can also see deer, roe deer, wild boars and white-tailed eagles. A normal ticket costs PLN 7, a reduced ticket PLN 5.

Walking trails

The map can be downloaded from the national park website.

Blue trail (26 km) – National Park office – V3 weapon position – Turquoise Lake – Zielonka Hill – Lubin church – Wolinian oak – Karnocice – Dargobądź – Mokrzyca Mała – Wolin

I walked a fragment of the trail from the church in Lubin to the Wolinian oak. It’s about an hour journey through the forest (there and back). On the way in the distance, I saw an animal running across the road, looking like a small wild boar but it quickly disappeared behind the trees.

Wolinian Oak is one of the oldest trees in the Woliński National Park and its age is estimated between 450 and 750 years.

Red trail (19 km): National Park office – beach – Mount Kawcza – beach – Kikut Lighthouse – Kaprowo Lake – Kołczewo

Green trail (15 km): National Park office – Bisons Show Farm – Warnowo – Czajcze Lake – Kołczewo Lake – Kołczewo

I went on long, full-day trekking along the green and red trails.

First, passing the lakes Czajcze, Żółwinowskie and Kaprowo I followed the green trail to Kołczewo. From there, I hitchhiked to Wisełka, where I entered the red trail, heading back towards Międzyzdroje.

Following the red trail along the beach, the cliffs grew higher and the beach narrowed. At some point, the torn cliff blocked the way to the other side completely. I decided to go back a few hundred meters and try to go up the cliff.

Finally, I found a suitable, less steep place and continued walking towards the city. The path here was much less visible, but it was enough to follow the cliff edge. Finally, I reached Mount Gosań and not far behind it I managed to find a convenient place to descent to the beach.

The whole trip was about 24 km (7 hours).

Is it worth going on a trip to Międzyzdroje and Woliński National Park?

Yes and no. Międzyzdroje is definitely a place where I wouldn’t like to spend my holidays and see all these rather shoddy attractions in the high season. In low season, it is a quiet place with a very nice and wide beach. Just like anywhere in the world – the fewer tourists, the better. Combined with numerous hiking trails in the Woliński National Park, it’s an attractive place for a weekend getaway in the West Pomeranian Voivodeship.

In Hiking February 2, 2020

NZ Great Walks: Rakiura Track

Due to limited time, most travellers focus only on visiting New Zealand’s North and South Islands, excluding the third biggest Stewart Island/Rakiura from their itineraries. At first, I didn’t plan to visit the island and hike Rakiura Track either. However, after my first Great Walk – Tongariro Northern Circuit, I totally fell in love with long-distance treks. I instantly thought I want to have them all in my collection of memories from New Zealand.

Rakiura Track is the shortest and certainly the easiest of all Great Walks. It’s a 32 km loop in the Eastern part of the island. Department of Conservation (DOC) suggests 3 days itinerary but the track can be done by an average hiker in 2 days without a problem. Some do it in 1 day, even though I don’t recommend that option as it will be extremely rushed.

The big benefit (especially when heading from Fiordland) is that Rakiura Track is the cheapest Great Walk to do and the easiest to organize. I booked the campsite just 1 day in advance which would be highly unlikely on any other Great Walk.

Rakiura National Park

The park was established in 2002 and is made of over 80% of the island’s territory. On the track, you will encounter information boards about early Maori settlements especially around Maori Beach and Port William as well as relicts of sawmilling industry which lasted until 1931. Some parts cross the Maori land which has been shared for the public use by the courtesy of its owners.

How to get to Stewart Island?

There are 2 options to get to Stewart Island: ferry or plane.

Ferry service is operated by Stewart Island Experience. Depending on the season, it goes 2, 3 or 4 times a day. The crossing takes 1 hour and regular ticket costs 89 NZD one way or 159 NZD return. Always make a booking in advance. I didn’t and the ferry that I planned to take the next morning was fully booked. There is free parking just in front of the terminal in Bluff. The crossing can be quite bumpy, so better get your meal not before but after the arrival to Oban.

Flights are operated by Stewart Island Flights and leave Invercargill 3 times per day. It’s definitely faster (20 minutes) and more scenic way to arrive in Oban. As usually in New Zealand, it comes with the price and will hit the budget significantly with 130 NZD for a one-way ticket or 220 NZD return.

Overnight in Oban

If arriving in the afternoon, it’s worth to spend the night in Oban and start the track the next morning. Bunkers Backpackers Hostel is an excellent choice.

Clockwise or anticlockwise?

There is not much difference in which direction you start the hike. Deciding for 2 days itinerary, it’s up to you if longer and harder part should be done on the first or the second day of the hike.

If starting in the anticlockwise direction, make your way from Oban towards starting point at Lee Bay (5km). Otherwise, your starting point will be at the Fern Gully Road end (2km from Oban).

Weather

Due to its location, Stewart Island/Rakiura is exposed to even more changeable weather than the rest of New Zealand. It’s best to monitor the conditions on MetService. Strong winds and heavy rains are known on this track and can occur at any time of the year. After rains, be prepared to walk in deep mud. It’s worth dropping by to DOC office to reconfirm the weather conditions and ask for recommendations.

1,2 or 3 days?

Technically it is possible to do the track in one day, however, it would be a very long and very tough day. Start at sunrise is essential and you will finish around dusk, with not too much time for breaks along the way.

More popular versions are the ones over 2 or 3 days.

I did the track in 2 days and it was optimal time, giving the chance to have a break, take in all the sights and camp in the middle of the forest with the best chance in New Zealand to spot a kiwi in natural habitat.

3 days would be a bit too much for me, nevertheless, if you prefer to take your time, do sunbathing and picnicking on the way, then it’s a great opportunity.

Huts and campsites

The Great Walk season on Stewart Island/Rakiura begins usually at the beginning of October and lasts until the end of April. Bookings for huts and campsites are required year-round.

Booking can be done at the Department of Conservation website. Once on the island, don’t forget to drop by to DOC office in Oban to pick up the tickets and re-check weather conditions.

Both huts and campsites have pros and cos. Doing all of Great Walks, I used huts only on Milford Track and that’s because camping there is forbidden. I like to feel that I am totally independent and rely only on own supplies and equipment. Moreover, camping gives more flexibility to re-schedule the hike when the weather turns bad. Huts are rather booked out weeks in advance, especially on the most popular tracks. Camping on Rakiura Track gives you also better chance to spot the kiwi and hear all the sounds of the forest in the night.

Great Walks huts have bunk beds, mattresses, heating, toilets and cold water. Campings comes with water supply, cooking shelter, sinks and toilets.

List of huts and campsites

There are 2 huts and 3 campsites along the track. As for all Great Walks, overnight stays must be booked in advance and tickets should be picked up at DOC office in Oban before departure. As the track is the least popular of all Great Walks, there is usually no need of booking months in advance, however, do monitor the situation to avoid disappointment.

Maori Beach Campsite – besides being a grassy campsite close to the beach, it’s also the historic site where you can learn about remains of sawmill industry present on the island until 1931. It’s only a few kilometres from Oban so not many hikers stay here. There are 16 camping spots.

Port William Hut and Campsite – popular overnight stop located 8.1 kilometres from the trailhead at Lee Bay. If offers 24 bunk beds and 16 camping spots.

North Arm Hut and Campsite – from my point of view, the best place for the night on a track located only a stone’s throw away from Paterson Inlet. It offers 24 bunk beds and 16 camping spots.

Pricing

In the Great Walk season (1 October – 30 April) the prices are as follows:

Huts: 24 NZD per adult per night, 17 years old and under free (booking still required)

Campsites: 6 NZD per adult per night, 17 years old and under free (booking still required)

Outside of the season ( 1 May – 30 September), the price for a hut drops to 22 NZD. Price for campsite doesn’t change.

Track details and profile

Distance: 32 km (loop)

Time: 1-3 days

Rakiura Track elevation — *www.doc.govt.nz*

The track profile and other useful details can be found inside the Department of Conservation (DOC) brochure.

The following itinerary assumes 2 nights on a track which will give you plenty of time to relax, take a swim and enjoy nature. I did the track with only one overnight stay at North Arm Campsite (departing from Oban towards Lee Bay).

Stage 1 – From Lee Bay to Port William Hut and Campsite (3-4h, 8.1km)

The day at Oban started with perfect weather and I dropped by to DOC office to pick up the map and tickets for the campsite. Then I followed the road towards Lee Bay (5 kilometres). Alternatively, it’s possible to take a taxi and save the legs, but it’s a pleasant walk through the village. The chain-link sculpture at Lee Bay is the official beginning of the track and symbolizes one of the Maori legends. It’s the story of Maui, who used South Island as his canoe and Stewart Island/Rakiura as the anchor to fish the North Island.

From here, the track continues along the coast to Maori Beach. It’s a perfect place for a snack and swim. The campsite is just right next to the beach and it’s much less crowded than the one at Port William, so if you like peace and silence, consider staying here overnight.

For me, it wasn’t the time to rest yet and I continued further across the swing bridge and then to the turn off to Port William Hut and Campsite. Even though it wasn’t my overnight stopover, I dropped my backpack in the bushes, took my lunch and went there to eat and relax. It’s 40 minutes off the main track and as it was still early hour, not too many hikers were there. Two women were chilling on the grass in front of the hut and one of them happened to be half Polish so we had a nice chat in my native language.

Stage 2 – From Port William Hut and Campsite to North Arm Hut and Campsite (4-6h, 13km)

The second stage became harder but not because of its steepness but rather constant need to jump over the mud. In parts, it’s necessary to get off the main track and take a detour through the bush. Honestly, it was quite a boring couple of kilometres. It’s just the path through the forest like any other in New Zealand, where the only highlights were passing by the old log hauler once used to drag trees to the gullies seeing… a stick insect.

Upon arrival to North Arm Campsite, I was greeted by a Kiwi couple. We cooked our freeze-dried food made by Backcountry Cousine and had a nice chat. The guy was a real badass as in his late 50’s he finished Te Araroa Track which is 3.000 kilometres long hike from the very top of North Island to the very bottom of South Island. I really hope to follow his example when I am at his age.

I still had over an hour before the sunset and there is a nice place to relax behind the hut. Just follow the path down towards Paterson Inlet. Have a swim or just put your feet to the water and wait for the low tide to come.

Stage 3 – From North Arm Hut and Campsite to Oban (13 km)

In the morning of the next day, the weather changed significantly. It started to get windy and kiwi guy said that according to forecast, it’s gonna rain at 1 pm. I left the campsite at 7:30 am to be able to arrive in Oban before it gets wet. The easy path through the forest led me to the junction, where I took Ryan’s Creek Track for a more scenic detour to Fern Gully Carpark. It adds only around 1.5 hours to already quite an easy day.

From Fern Gully Carpark, which is the end of the track, it’s another 2 kilometres to Oban. I checked in again to Bunkers Backpackers Hostel and enjoyed one of the most amazing sunsets in New Zealand.

Don’t miss!

Dark Sky Sanctuary & Aurora Australis

Rakiura in the Maori language means ‘the land of glowing skies’. You will understand why. Stewart Island/Rakiura is one of the International Dark Night Sanctuaries and with clear skies, it’s a spectacle on the sky. Moreover, around winter you have good chances to see Southern Lights also known as Aurora Australis.

Kiwi spotting

There are less than 40 human inhabitants of Stewart Island/Rakiura. How about kiwis? Well, the estimated population is 20.000. It makes the island the best place to see kiwis in their natural environment. To be precise, the species is the southern brown kiwi. While in other parts of New Zealand kiwis are nocturnal, on Stewart Island/Rakiura they can be also spotted in daylight!

I got lucky as well. I set an alarm for midnight, took my flashlight and went for a short walk on a track, from where I came the previous day. I was walking very slowly, focusing on all the little noises in the bushes. Suddenly, I heard something and stopped moving for at least 15 minutes. I could clearly hear the movement closer and closer. The kiwi was walking perfectly towards me, probably curious about my flashlight. I had the one with white light but the best would be using the red light mode, so it doesn’t scare the kiwis off.

It was quite a brave kiwi. At some point it was just at my feet, touching my shoelaces with his beak. Realizing that it’s not eatable, he continued his night journey through the forest. So did I, coming back to the tent to fell asleep completely satisfied with the night encounter.

Is it worth hiking Rakiura Track?

It’s definitely not that scenic as other Great Walks. However, there are things making up for it. Night walks in the forest in search for kiwis, spectacular sunrises and even more spectacular sunsets, dark skies and the chance to see Southern Lights. Due to the distance and advancement level, Rakiura Track is probably the best Great Walk for newbie hiker. And if you are experienced and want to go through muddy tracks even further, it’s possible to hike North West Circuit (125 km, 9-11 days) or Southern Circuit (71.5 km, 4-6 days).

Enjoy!

For questions, contact me on pinyourfootsteps@gmail.com

In Jordan January 20, 2020

Jordan: 11 days itinerary

Making use of cheap flights from Warsaw to Amman and a couple of free days between Christmas, New Year and Epiphany, I decided to visit the country that is home to spectacular sights such as Petra and Wadi Rum. Jordan has also the opinion of being the safest country in a rather unstable region. Travelling through Jordan in winter is a good idea for those that prefer cooler temperatures. It’s quite pleasant around the Dead Sea and the Red Sea, but the desert can get really cold and snowfall is possible. Furthermore, some attractions won’t be available due to the risk of flash floods, e.g. canyon hikes.

The following itinerary assumes you rent a car for the entire duration of your stay which makes moving between sights much easier and faster.

Day 1 – Amman airport, Bethany Beyond the Jordan, the Dead Sea

Upon arrival in Amman, you will meet a representative of Monte Carlo Car Rental company. They will take you to their office which is only 10 minutes from the airport, where you will pick up the keys to your car. In my case, it was a Mitsubishi Mirage. It’s a small car but should fit perfectly for 1-2 travellers or even 3 if travelling light.

From there, take a very picturesque road descending the hills towards the Dead Sea, passing by the area where people live in tents and walk with the goats. Soon you will arrive at Bethany Beyond the Jordan. Several archaeological excavations in that area uncovered remains of churches, baptismal pools and prayer halls. Today, it is believed to be the most likely site of the baptism of Jesus by John the Baptist. Of course, it’s kind of symbolic, as the exact spot will probably never be identified. Entrance costs 12 JOD and sightseeing is with guided tours only which include transfer from the parking to the baptism site by minibus. The last entry in the wintertime at 4 pm and in the summertime at 6 pm.

Overnight: Ramada Resort by Wyndham Dead Sea. The hotel has its own beach and is very affordable comparing to other hotels and resorts in the area of Dead Sea.

Monte Carlo Car Rental, Jordan — Small but fast! Rented MItshubishi Mirage from Monte Carlo Car Rental

En route from Amman to Bethany Beyond Jordan

Jordan, Middle East — *En route from Amman to Bethany Beyond Jordan*

Day 2 – Dead Sea Highway, Wadi Mujib, Karak Castle, arrival to Wadi Rum

After breakfast, check out the beach that belongs to the hotel. It’s only 10 minutes walk or alternatively you can use a shuttle bus. When I was there, the weather was pretty bad. Cloudy, windy, cold. There was a blue sky on the horizon so probably later the situation improved but at that moment I really didn’t feel like going to the water. Instead, I hit the road towards Karak Castle with several stops on the way.

The Dead Sea, Jordan — Beach at Ramada Hotel

First stop is Wadi Mujib. It’s a very popular canyon for hikes, however, in winter it’s closed due to the risk of flash floods. The information centre and viewpoint there is still open though, so it’s worth to have a look.

Continue along Jordan Hwy towards the place called Coral Reefs. The name comes from the salt formations on the banks of the Dead Sea, which looks similar to the coral reef. Leave the car just off the main road, take your swimming shorts and shoes (essential as the salt crystals are very sharp) and make your way down the hill. Being away from the main paid beaches, it’s a great place for a peaceful play in the Dead Sea. The water was much warmer than I expected and the feeling of floating was stunning!

Next, take Route 50 towards Karak Castle. It’s one of the largest and most famous Crusader castles in the region where furious battles between Crusaders and Islamic armies of Saladin took place.

From Kerak it’s about 3.5 hours drive via Kings Hwy to Rum Village. Whichever Bedouin camp you choose, it’s necessary to park the car here, find your company representative and continue further to the camp by 4×4 jeep. I chose Bedouin Directions, which have a camp about 45 minutes drive from the village into the desert. Contact them online to check availability.

Overnight: Bedouins Directions campsite

Day 3 – Wadi Rum

You have several options about how to spend the day. Hiking, camel trekking or jeep tours being the most popular ones. I opted for the full-day jeep tour. The guide and driver from Bedouin Directions was a great guy, even though his English skills were very limited. During the tour, you will visit several highlights of the desert: Lawrence Spring, Red Sand Dune, Little Rock Bridge, Burdah Rock Bridge, Um Fruth rock bridge, Khazali & Burrah Canyons. Everything concluded with an amazing sunset!

Overnight: Bedouins Directions campsite

Day 4 – Wadi Rum, Aqaba

In the morning, do 1-hour camel ride back to the Rum Village and then stop at the Visitor Centre for a short hike from there towards The Pillars of Wisdom. How difficult it is to walk on soft sand! In the second half of the day, make your way to Aqaba. There, visit the castle built by Crusaders, Sharif Hussein bin Ali Mosque and South Beach known for great snorkelling and diving. Corals are really nice, there is also the wreck of the plane and tank accessible even for snorkelers. Several dive centres operate in the area so rent your gear and ask for directions over there.

Overnight: Grannie House

Day 5 – Little Petra, Petra

Follow Route 65 to the north until after around 1.5 hours you will see the signs towards Petra. Turn right and continue along the mountain road to the intersection with Kings Hwy. Little Petra should be your first stop. If you do Little Petra after main Petra, then it simply won’t impress you that much. Continue to one of the New Seven Wonders of the World – Petra and have a look into Petra Museum first to get the historical background of what you will see later. Then, continue through the Siq to the High Place of Sacrifice and further through Wadi Farasa exiting right next to Temple of Dushares. It’s a great hike and not that busy as the main road in Petra. It’s getting late so start to walk back, stopping next to the Royal Tombs to admire the sunset.

I was considering doing the attraction called Petra by Night, but after reading so many negative reviews I decided not to. If you decide to do it, it’s every Monday, Wednesday and Thursday of each week and costs 17 JOD.

Overnight: Nomads Hostel

Day 6 – Petra, Shobak Castle, Dana Village

Start the day at 6 am to have the chance of taking a couple of pictures in the Siq without crowds. Next, climb the rock just opposite the Treasury and then follow Al-Khubtha Trail (starting just to the left behind the Royal Tombs) to another Treasury Viewpoint. The next stop is Ad Deir (Monastery) and you will get there following the uphill trail to the end of the valley with lots of donkey poo on it. On the way back, I check out the Great Temple, Lion Triclinium, Roman Theatre and Byzantine Church. Finally, it’s time to hit the road again. Make your way to the next destination – Shobak Castle.

Shobak Castle is a Crusader castle built by the king Baldwin I in 1115. The location on the hill and landscape around it are more interesting than the castle itself, although it’s still interesting to wonder around such old walls. Defenders of the castle resisted numerous attacks from the armies of Saladin before giving up after an 18-month siege. From here, your hotel in Dana Village is only half an hour away.

Overnight: Dana Tower Hotel. I recommend paying extra for dinner. It doesn’t seem that there is a lot of restaurants beside ones in hotels, and the buffet in Dana Tower Hotel is great value for the price.

Day 7 – Wadi Dana Trail

The guys in Dana Tower Hotel advised me to start the hike early as later on there is someone standing at the entrance and charging 8 JD. I recommend to do the same! The trail is 16 km long and starts just behind the hotel. It is not marked, however, it would be really difficult to get lost as you follow the valley all the time. You can either go to the end, where you will reach Feynan Eco-Lodge and organize a taxi back to Dana Village. A taxi will cost around 40-50 JD and take over 2 hours. You can get a drink in Feynan and wait for more hikers to split the costs. Alternatively, simply don’t go to the very end of the trail and come back the same way on foot. The landscape does not change anyway and you will save quite some money. The whole adventure takes most of the day and Dana Village is pleasant enough to justify another night there.

Overnight: Dana Tower Hotel

Day 8 – Lot’s Cave, Umm ar-Rasas, Fortress of Machaerus, Madaba

Long drives today. First, make a detour to Lot’s Cave. Lot is believed to have lived here together with his daughters after fleeing the destruction of Sodom and Gomorrah. Next stop is Umm ar-Rasas ruins with famous floor mosaic in Stephen’s Church.

Further on the Fortress of Machaerus offers breathtaking views of the Dead Sea and the surrounding area. The place is most likely where John the Baptist was kept captive and eventually beheaded. Not much of the ruins left though.

Continue to Madaba – the city of mosaics. The most famous one is in St George’s Church and presents the map of all major biblical sites in the Middle East, including Egypt and Palestine. But it’s certainly not the only site worth visiting in town. Church of the Beheading of John the Baptist offers superb city panorama from its bell tower but also photographs and replica of mosaic at Umm ar-Rasas. Not enough of mosaics? Then drop by to Church of the Apostles, Archeological Parks I & II and Madaba Museum.

Madaba, Jordan — View from the Church of the Beheading of John the Baptist

Overnight: Moab Land Hotel

Day 9 – Amman

One day is an absolute minimum to do the city justice. The ruins of Citadel on top of Jebel Al Qala and Roman Theatre (seating capacity 6.000) downtown are must-see. Getting a ticket to the last one will also get you into the Folklore Museum and Museum of Popular Traditions. Both are very compact but worth having a quick look. Odeon is just on the east side of the Roman Theatre. Back then it was a place for music performances and seated 500 people. A few steps further are Al Husseiny Mosque and Nymphaeum (public fountain).

Drive or take a taxi to King Abdullah Mosque. It was finished in 1989 and is recognizable by a huge blue dome. Tourists are welcome to visit.

Add to your day Jordan Museum which is the best in the country and leads you through Jordan’s history from ancient to modern times.

Putting all the historical attractions on the side, in this city, you will get something that you can’t get anywhere else in Jordan. It’s big, dynamic and modern with a lot of nice eateries, coffee houses and cool hostels. For dinner and drinks check out Rainbow Street or Hashem Restaurant for their famous falafel and hummus. I was there twice!

Amman, Jordan — *View from Citadel, Amman*

Overnight: Sydney Hotel

Day 10 – Jerash, As-Salt

Start the day with a drive to Ajloun Castle, which was built in the 12th century under the rule of the sultan and military leader Saladin. The castle sits on top of Mount ‘Auf and provides visitors with panoramic views of the Jordan Valley and surrounding desert.

Next, return to Jerash. Tourists stop here for one reason – Roman ruins of the ancient city in Archeological Site of Jerash. Enter through Hadrian’s Gate and get lost in this big area with ceremonial gates, collonaded streets, hippodrome, forum, theatres, temples, fountains and a small museum. At least 3 hours are necessary to see and appreciate it all.

The last stop for today is As-Salt. Here nothing is better than simply walking around and admiring architecture from the Ottoman period. The city was the most prosperous when in the 20th century Ottomans established a regional administrative base here. But then, Amman was chosen as the new capital of the Empire of Transjordan and As-Salt lost its importance.

Check out Orthodox Church, Hammam Street Market, Ottoman Mosque, Salt Archeological Museum, Muhammed Al Bashir’s House and Abu Jaber Museum.

Come back to Amman and spend your last night in one of the traditional restaurants, e.g. AlQuds.

Overnight: Sydney Hotel

Day 11 – Mount Nebo, Amman airport

It’s around one hour from Amman to Mount Nebo. The place is mentioned in the Hebrew Bible as the one where Moses was granted a view of the Promised Land. Nowadays, the views are still amazing. The Dead Sea, the Jordan River Valley, Jericho, Bethlehem and the hills of Jerusalem in a distance. Drop by to the basilica and have a look at the Byzantine mosaics and serpentine cross sculpture. Nearby, there is the La Storia Tourism Complex with a bit kitschy exhibition but a great shop with mosaics and other souvenirs. Don’t be shy to negotiate the price.

Mount Nebo, Jordan — Moses Memorial, Mount Nebo

Floor mosaic can be also viewed in Church of Saint George. If it’s closed, go to the nearby house and the owner will open it for you. Then… it is time to return the car and get ready for the flight back!

Questions? Contact me via Instagram or pinyourfootsteps@gmail.com

In Hiking December 26, 2019

NZ Great Walks: Tongariro Northern Circuit

Tongariro Northern Circuit was my first New Zealand’s Great Walk. It was also the first overnight hike in my life! I did camp before, but it was rather during road trips. Carrying food supplies, water, tent, sleeping bag, gas stove, cooking pot, water filter, clothes for change – all of it on my back for 2 days in volcanic landscape sounded like a challenge. What an exciting one!

Tongariro National Park

You will be hiking in one of the oldest National Parks in the world!

In 1894, Tongariro became the first National Park established in New Zealand and the fourth to become such worldwide. From 1993 it is on the World Heritage List for both Maori cultural significance and volcanic landscape. There is a wide choice of walks available in the area, suitable for all levels of fitness. Two of them are especially worth considering!

Tongariro Northern Circuit is the longer version of more popular 1-day Tongariro Alpine Crossing. It only depends on your personal preference which version you decide to hike. However, I do encourage you for longer exploration. Northern Circuit includes the most scenic part of Alpine Crossing and adds the chance to camp among active volcanoes in Taupo Volcanic Zone: Ngauruhoe, Tongariro and bit further on the horizon – Ruapehu. It gives you extra time to stop and enjoy the breathtaking scenery, an opportunity to test your limits on over 40 km track and make new friendships with all the fellow hikers that you get to meet on the way! Most likely you will also beat the crowds that start Alpine Crossing every morning from Mangatepopo Road End. And believe me, in high season is A LOT of people. You also won’t need to pay extra for the transport as it is in case of one-way Tongariro Alpine Crossing.

Do you feel encouraged?

The legend has it…

Before going to Tongariro National Park, I visited the second highest volcano of New Zealand – Mount Taranaki. There is a legend that connects all the peaks in the central area of North Island. It says that both Taranaki and Tongariro were in love with Mount Pihanga and the fierce fight between them started. Tongariro won and Taranaki escaped to the west coast where he was trapped by Pouakai Ranges in the place he stands now. Taranaki is often covered in clouds, hiding the tears shed after his lost love.

Welcome to Mordor

Tongariro National Park acted as a filming location for Peter’s Jackson world-famous trilogy Lord of the Rings. Volcanic rocks and unique landscape were ideal for creating Mordor and Mount Ngauruhoe shape was digitally enhanced to make Mount Doom. Other locations include Emyn Muil (Iwikau Village at Whakapapa), Ithilien Camp (Mangawhero Falls) and scenes with Orc Army (Rangipo Desert). It’s quite cool add-on for all fans, even though sometimes you need to use your imagination to recognize the places.

Clockwise or anticlockwise?

Tongariro Northern Circuit is a loop track and can be hiked in either direction. I started clockwise from Whakapapa Village towards Mangatepopo Hut and further to Oturere Campsite. In this way, I tackled more difficult part on the first day. It’s a good choice because of higher energy level at the beginning, however, you will be carrying a backpack loaded with most of your food supplies on the ascent to Red Crater. That’s also the more popular directions among hikers. I personally think that the track is so spectacular that it doesn’t matter which direction you choose.

Bookings of huts and campsites

The season for Great Walks begins usually at the end of October and lasts until the end of April. In this period, bookings for huts and campsites are required. Outside of the season, they work on a first-come, first-served basis, however, please do remember that because of weather conditions the trail becomes much more difficult to tackle (avalanche risk) and experience is required.

Booking can be done at the Department of Conservation website. After a booking is done, don’t forget to drop by to DOC Office in the Whakapapa Village to pick up physical tickets and re-check weather conditions.

Both huts and campsites have pros and cos. Doing all Great Walks, I used huts only on Milford Track and that’s because camping there is forbidden. I like to feel that I am totally independent and rely only on own supplies and equipment. Moreover, camping gives more flexibility to re-schedule the hike when the weather turns bad. Huts are rather booked out weeks in advance, especially on the most popular tracks like Tongariro Norther Circuit, Milford Track, Kepler Track or Routeburn Track. The chance to postpone the adventure is small, meaning you either go in bad weather or don’t go at all.

Great Walks huts have bunk beds, mattresses, heating, toilets, basic gas cooking facilities, solar-powered lighting and cold water.

List of huts and campsites

Mangatepopo Hut and Campsite – it’s only 9.4 km from the trailhead at Whakapapa Village and unless you really want to take your time and enjoy the landscape, it’s simply not far enough to justify overnight stay.

Oturere Hut and Campsite – the most picturesque overnight stop and the only one I stayed on the track. It’s 21.4 km from the trailhead and I must say that for the last 2-3 km I was tired and couldn’t wait to reach the place. But it’s worth pushing. The clouds passing through the top of Ngauruhoe at dusk were unforgettable. It’s just next to the hut where you can use the facilities as well as have a chat with fellow hikers. It can get quite windy there and before I started to set up a tent, the ranger approached me. First, I thought that she wants to collect a ticket, but it wasn’t a case. Instead, she warned me that the day before, one of the hikers tried to set up a tent but the wind was so strong that the tent was blown away into the valley in a matter of seconds. The rather surprised hiker was forced to spend the night on the floor in a hut.

Waihohonu Hut and Campsite – I had a booking there for the second night, but it took me only 2 hours to reach the place from Oturere. Therefore, I decided to spontaneously change the plans and push until the end of the trail. But again, if you want to take your time and not rush, then it’s a nice place to stay.

Pricing

Huts: 36 NZD per adult per night, 17 years old and under free (booking still required)

Campsites: 15 NZD per adult per night, 17 years old and under free (booking still required). Campers can use huts facilities (except for the beds obviously).

Weather

It’s best to monitor the conditions on MetService. The weather can change quickly, and strong winds are known on this track due to exposed terrain. It’s also worth dropping by to DOC office and reconfirm weather conditions. I learned the importance of it on my own skin (more below)!

2, 3 or 4 days?

Many people keep asking how many days they should split the distance for. The track offers 3 huts and campsites on the way, however, if you decide to stay in all of them, you won’t hike for longer than 3-4 hours per day. That’s rather short for me. I initially planned to have a tough first day, spend the night at Otutere campsite and on the next day stop for the second night at Waihohonu campsite. After departing from Otutere early, I arrived Waihohonu only after 2 hours. It was 9 am, the weather was perfect, my level of energy high enough so I just decided to push till the end. I wasn’t the only person that changed the plans in this way.

If you are reasonably fit and don’t mind walking over 20 km a day, do it in 2 days.

If you prefer to sleep longer, make picnics along the way and do side trips, do it in 3 days.

If you prefer to do all of the above plus read a book and take all the scenery really slow-paced, then 4 days is the answer.

Track details and profile

Distance: 43.1 km (loop)

Time: 2-4 days

The track profile and other useful details can be found inside the Department of Conservation (DOC) brochure.

Stage 1 – From Whakapapa Village to Mangatepopo Hut and Campsite (2-3h, 9.4km)

The start of the hike took me… 3 days. I arrived at Whakapapa Village a day before and was welcomed by cold weather, fog and pouring rain. Not perfect conditions for the first overnight hike. I didn’t know what to do so I went to the Visitor Centre asking DOC staff for advice and they said that indeed it won’t be very enjoyable to walk out there. „If you have time, go to see Taupo and Rotorua first, and we will postpone your bookings by 3 days”. It was an excellent decision and I must say that the DOC staff is always very helpful and professional. In the end, it’s not only about covering the distance of 40+ km but actually seeing some landscape.

I came back 3 days later and that time the weather seemed to be more friendly. I left the car at the parking near the Visitor Centre and hit the track in the early morning. I was the only hiker walking the narrow path across huge wide spaces with the cone of Ngauruhoe appearing on my right side. After around 1 hour, I met the only hiker during that stage. The guy was walking with a backpack 3 times smaller than mine and he was actually doing Te Araroa Trail which is 3000 km route from the top of North Island to the bottom of South Island. What a badass.

I don’t know if I was shocked after a short chat with another hiker or maybe my backpack was too heavy with all the unnecessary things I took (more likely), but I slipped on one of the big and wet stones, lost my balance and fell down on my face. Hiking poles didn’t help! Falling was quite straightforward, getting up with huge and heavy backpack not so much.

After around 2-2.5 hours I arrived at Mangatepopo Hut and here I realized that walking times provided by DOC are way overestimated (it is around 4h in track description). Refill your water bottle here if necessary, you will need for next, much more demanding stage.

This stage is the least impressive, therefore if you doubt your fitness level, you can start the hike from Mangatepopo Road End and cut 9 km from your first day. You would need to arrange transport, as you will not complete the full loop.

Stage 2 – From Mangatepopo Hut to Oturere Hut (3.5 – 4h, 12km)

Here the most popular part of the hike known as Tongariro Alpine Crossing starts. Luckily, I was already on the way for over 2 hours so all the crowds doing the 1-day version of the hike were far ahead of me.

The track becomes wider and continues up the valley towards Mangatepopo Saddle. The wide valley is just impressive, and I seriously had the music theme from Lord of the Rings playing in my head.

Climb to the Saddle is the most challenging part of the day and here backpack starts to be really heavy. It also becomes warmer and the sun starts to burn my skin. I knew I forgot something, and that something was sun cream. Luckily it didn’t take long until I saw a couple having a rest and being kind to save me from sunburns by sharing the cream. The climb continues up to the Red Crater where I took the long break to take in all the views. In clear weather, you can even see Mount Taranaki! Magnificent.

Then the track goes down to Emerald Lakes. It’s a steep way down with plenty of small and slippery stones that proved to be challenging for a lot of tourists. My hiking poles proved to be very helpful to keep the balance. After descending, there is an option for 30min return side trip to Blue Lake which I took. It’s a sacred place for Maori and you must not touch the water. After that, I retrieved my steps and followed the track into Oturere Valley. Here I got the feeling like walking in the desert among lava forms. Ruapehu with its snowy peak is clearly visible on the horizon. After around 1 hour, I reached Oturere Hut and Campsite. If you desperately need a bath in ice-cold water, there is a waterfall close by (ask the ranger).

Stage 3 – From Oturere Hut and Campsite to Waihohonu Hut and Campsite (2-2.5h, 8.1 km)

The track continues for over 8 km through stream valleys and gravel fields. The morning fog made the atmosphere during the walk unique. On that day, there was a running event going on so I was passed by hundreds of runners. After around 2 hours I reached Waihohonu Hut, changed my initial plan of staying there overnight and continued until the track end.

Stage 4 – From Waihohonu Hut and Campsite to Whakapapa Village (4-4.5h, 15.4 km)

The track follows Waihohonu Stream and climbs Tama Saddle. The area is known for strong winds. I experienced it on my skin, especially during a side trip to upper Tama Lake (1.5h return). Even though I left the backpack at the crossroad and continues just with a bottle of water, it was a steep incline and the wind made it very difficult to keep the balance. From the upper viewpoint, you get fine views over the lakes as well as Mount Ruapehu. After coming back to the crossroad and taking my backpack, it was another 2 hours to Whakapapa Village. I decided to add a bit more to the distance and check out Taranaki Falls as well. Don’t miss it!

Side trips

Blue Lake – Half an hour detour from the track junction nearby Emerald Lakes (along the Tongariro Alpine Crossing Track).

Tama Lakes – Two crates filled with water. It takes 15min return to Lower Tama and 1h return to Upper Lama. You can leave your backpack at the junction of the tracks and go light. Be careful of strong winds.

Taranaki Falls Track – An alternative way to reach Whakapapa Village. Go down the steps to the base of the waterfall.

Mount Tongariro and Mount Ngauruhoe Summits – Technically, both summits can be climbed as a side trip. However, the route is not poled and the same as lakes, mountain’s summits are sacred for local Maori tribe and climbing is discouraged. I didn’t go to either of them and will not advertise this option.

Time to chill

It was wonderful 2 days in an out of this world landscape. When I reached parking, I was tired as hell. It’s a kind of physical exercise that consume your calories but build psychological strength and satisfaction. If I would need to select 3 places that I would like to visit again on North Island, Tongariro National Park would be one of them without a doubt!

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On the trail – 2 days 1 night

Day 1: Ranu Pane village – Ranu Kumbolo Lake – Kalimati campsite (15km, 5-6h)

Stage 1: Ranu Pane village to Ranu Kumbolo Lake (3-3.5h)

Stage 2: Ranu Kumbolo Lake to Kalimati campsite (2-2.5h)

Day 2: Kalimati campsite – Semeru summit – Kalimati campsite – Ranu Kumbolo lake – Ranu Pane

Stage 1: Kalimati campsite to Semeru summit (4-5h)

Stage 2: Semeru summit to Ranu Pane village (6-8h)

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