In New Zealand December 7, 2020

Waitomo Caves: glowworms experience

The name Waitomo comes from the Maori words wai (water) and tomo (hole). The whole region has impressive cave systems, out of which the most popular are the ones accessible by tourists: Glowworm, Raukuri and Aranui.

To be honest, I am not a big fan of caves and after visiting a couple of them before, every next tour feels pretty the same. However, Waitomo Caves were on my must-see list from the very beginning as there was something that I had never seen before – glowing worms.

What are glowworms?

Glowworms are the larvae of the fungus gnat. Their luminescent organs attract small insects which come in the direction of the light only to be caught into sticky threads. In fact, the more hungry the larvae are, the brighter the light. The larval stage lasts between 6-9 months. After that, it turns into a pupa stage, similar to cocoon which develops into adult fungus gnat about 2 weeks later. Seems like the only reason for their short life is reproduction. They don’t have a mouth, therefore after mating and laying eggs, they die. And then the whole process repeats.

The guides will certainly tell you much more interesting details. Stay quiet and avoid shining your flashlight directly on them as it can scare them off and as a result, they will dim the lights.

How much does it cost?

I arrived at Waitomo Caves Discovery Centre in the afternoon and instantly set my wallet of fire. All the options seemed to be so tempting! I had done some online research before and I knew that for sure I want to do Glowworm Cave Tour and Black River Rafting. In the end, I added Raukiri Cave Tour to the deal as well.

Combined ticket for both cave tours costs 100 NZD and Black River Rafting Tour (Black Labyrinth) costs 150 NZD. Yeah, it is pricey. Don’t forget to have a look at www.bookme.co.nz for possible deals and promotions.

What to take?

As it usually is in the caves, the atmosphere is rather wet and cold. Wear good shoes and be prepared for temperature about 12˚ – 14˚C all year round.

If you go for Black River Rafting, you would need to take a swimsuit (to wear under a wetsuit that you get from your guides). It’s also good to have a bag where you can put your clothes for the duration of the adventure as well as a towel and flipflops. And definitely don’t forget your spirit for adventure!

Glowworm Cave Tour

The tour is the most popular one in the area and it really is an absolutely unique experience. There were two parts of it. First, I got to admire cave formations in the dry section. Then it was the time to hop into the boat and the real fun began. Shortly after, we were already in the large cavern known as the Cathedral. The guide navigated through the darkness by pulling the rope in such a graceful and smooth way that it seemed to be an art in itself. The first time to see glowworms could be a bit overwhelming. It so many of them! Hundreds of blue points glowed above my head and once again, I could not believe how lucky I was to spend 3 months on the other side of the world – in New Zealand.

Black River Rafting

It was raining the whole night and the temperature wasn’t too high either. I felt cold even under the blanket inside the van. That’s why I was far from being optimistic about jumping to cold water and spending 3 hours in a cave.

After checking-in at Waitomo Homestead, I met the other guys from my group. It was 5 of us in total plus 2 guides – Mitch, who used the word ‘awesome’ in literally every sentence, and a girl whose name I don’t remember but she was a talented singer which we had the opportunity to experience inside the caves.

We got wetsuits, which were still wet after the last tour the day before. Wearing a wet and cold wetsuit isn’t particularly nice but after a short time, it adjusted to body temperature.

Next, we got helmets with flashlights and of course black tubes. We made a stop next to the stream, just to practice jumping to the water as there are small waterfalls to jump from inside the caves. Don’t worry, just 2-3 metres high so it really isn’t a big deal, even for the person who doesn’t like heights. It was quite fun and the water didn’t seem to be as cold as expected. The wetsuit was doing a good job!

After entering Raukiri cave, we simply walked the first stage until we reached the first waterfall. The jump was awesome! Then, we stopped for marshmallow in chocolate (typical kiwi thing), observed glowworms, saw an eel, jumped from the second waterfall and in the end drifted slowly towards the exit, one after another, holding our feet and creating something like a small train. We were asked to turn off our flashlights to experience total darkness and our second guide started singing a beautiful Maori song. Total darkness, glowworms above your head and live singing inside the cave. Just imagine that. Unforgettable.

The whole experience ended with hot shower, tomato soup and bagel. It was an amazing tour and if I get the chance to repeat one of the cave attractions in Waitomo, I would definitely choose Black River Rafting.

Raukiri Cave Tour

The emotions had not subsided yet but it was already the time for another attraction. I set off to Raukiri cave, that time to take part in walking guided tour. The cave is huge and even though I was already inside during Black River Rafting, the area opened for walkers is a completely different one.

The guide Nathan had a good sense of humour and he introduced the history of the cave, shown stalactites and stalagmites as well as interesting fossils and cave creatures. We covered 1.6 km out of 7.5 km cave system. It was still a nice tour, however definitely the least exciting. I would say, just a regular cave tour which I would not do again if I ever come back to Waitomo.

Waitomo Caves, New Zealand — Glowworms spotted in Raukiri Cave

Other sights in the area

As always in New Zealand, there are so many nice places close to each other that it can take days or even weeks to see one region. King Country is not different. If you are done with Waitomo Caves, take your time to visit Mangapohue Natural Bridge, Piripiri Cave and Marokopa Falls.

Mangapohue Natural Bridge

It’s a 700m loop track through a limestone gorge that passes underneath a 17 m high natural arch – remains of an ancient cave system. Go up the stairs and have a look at an impressive ceiling with rock formations.

The track continues over farmland and back to the parking. Pay attention to limestone outcrops as on some of them you can notice ancient fossils. It’s a really cool place, don’t miss it!

Boardwalk leading towards Mangapohue Natural Bridge

Mangapohue Natural Bridge, New Zealand — Scenic bridge in the middle of the bush

Rock formations on the bottom of the arch

Marokopa Falls

The short track (600m return) takes you through the forest down to the viewing platform. The 35 m high falls are without doubt one of the most beautiful ones in New Zealand. If you are lucky, you will experience a wonderful rainbow and their bottom. Great for photographs!

Piripiri Cave

Hiking path through native bush and past limestone outcrops leads to a short staircase that goes down to the cave entrance. There is an observation platform at the bottom.

In Europe November 3, 2020

Main Sudetes Trail (Stage 15): Puchaczówka Pass – Złoty Stok

After the night near Stronie Village, I had to retreat my steps towards Biała Woda and join Main Sudetes Trail there. Luckily, the same as the day before, I managed to catch a ride quite quickly and save my legs from walking on a boring asphalt road.

Trasa: Przełęcz Puchaczówka – Złoty Stok | mapa-turystyczna.pl

The good news was that the distance to Lądek Zdrój (12 km) is rather easy and without significant elevation gains. A mostly downhill path through the forest is especially nice in hot weather and with sore muscles after getting to the top of Śnieżnik on the previous day.

I made a short break at Kąty Bystrzyckie. Next, the track goes gently uphill to the pass where you can see a small chapel. The legend says that it was built on the site of the death of 3 Swedish generals during the Thirty Years War.

The track follows the wide and comfortable road through the farmlands and forest until the first buildings of Lądek Zdrój pop up on the horizon. I could hear thunders becoming louder and louder, therefore I quickened my pace and shortly after arrived at the market square in the city centre.

The town is considered to be the oldest health resort in Poland, because according to historical sources, as early as 1241 there were bathing facilities here destroyed by Mongols returning from the battlefield near Legnica.

The area of old market square with the town hall, old tenement houses and restaurants is nice for a longer break and hot meal. Other than that, I recommend checking out the building of Wojciech Spa, Protestant church ruins as well as two picturesque bridges: the one of St. John of Nepomuk which is close to the old market square and the covered bridge which is more in the spa part of the city (still within walkable distance).

Wojciech Spa – a historic building from the 17th century, rebuilt two hundred years later. It houses a marble swimming pool designed in the style of a Turkish bath, stylish stone bathtubs for pearl baths and a pump room for waters from local springs.

Lądek Zdrój, Dolny Śląsk — Historic building of Wojciech Spa

Bridge of St. John of Nepomuk – It was erected in 1565. The author of the sculpture took inspiration from the figure of the patron saint of Bohemia on the Charles Bridge in Prague.

Covered Bridge – one of the most original and beautiful monuments in Lądek. It was built in the 1930s in order to connect two spa facilities.

Protestant church ruins – built in 1846, the temple was destroyed in the fire in 1999.

The second part of the day from Lądek Zdrój to Złoty Stok is longer (16 km) and much more difficult due to elevation differences, especially ascent to the Great Jawornik (Jawornik Wielki, 872 m n.p.m.).

I left Lądek Zdrój crossing the bridge over Biała Lądecka and followed the red track towards Pass Under the Konik (Przełęcz Pod Konikiem) and further to Orłowiec village. There, it was time to take a turn from the main road and start tiring ascent to Jaworowa Pass (Przełęcz Jaworowa).

It’s over 3 kilometres to the top of the Great Jawornik. The views are limited because of the trees but there is a viewing platform within 150 metres of a detour from red track. Unfortunately, clouds were hanging very low and I could see absolutely nothing anyway.

There are 6 more kilometres to Złoty Stok but all the way downhill so it didn’t take long to reach historic villa Złoty Jar and shortly after I saw first tourists hanging around in rope park and gold mine museum. Sightseeing was on my list too but first I wanted to drop my heavy backpack at Gold Stok Hotel. The room was simple but comfortable. Moreover, a bed and a private bathroom was everything I needed at that time.

It was getting late and there is quite a lot to see in Złoty Stok, therefore I simply went out for the walk and dinner, leaving tourist attractions for the morning of the next day.

This medieval mining settlement was established in connection with the mining of gold (traces from as early as the 10th century were discovered). Złoty Stok is the oldest mining and metallurgical centre in Poland. The last mine (arsenic ores) was closed in 1961. Today, it’s a popular tourist destination with all attractions being related to its past.

Gold Mine Museum – A specially prepared tourist route with a museum exhibition covering two adits. The first one is called “Gertrude” (500 m) and presents a unique collection of geological maps, ancient mining instruments and rich collection of rocks, ores and minerals from around the world.

The second one, called “Czarna” (700 m), is located in the upper part. This adit leads visitors through the 16th-century, hand-forged workings. You can learn about mining techniques used over the centuries and admire the only underground waterfall in Poland. The tour ends with an underground tram ride in the direction of a daylight 🙂

Złoty Stok, Dolny Śląsk — Entrance to Gertrude adit

Medieval Technology Park – A replica of a medieval settlement with a lot of real size devices. All of them still work and knowledgable guide presents their usage and let tourists try them themselves. 1-hour tour is concluded with the visit in Executioner Hut. He played an important role in punishing criminals and thieves.

Ochre Adit – It was opened in 2017 and the underground part includes 130 meters of the pavement that is opened for visitors. Sightseeing possible only with a guide.

Combined ticket for all three attractions costs 59 PLN per adult and you should count at least 3.5 hours for sightseeing.

In New Zealand October 23, 2020

Coromandel Peninsula: 3-days itinerary

Numerous beaches, ocean, forest, mountains, waterfalls and rich history. It’s a perfect combination for every holiday. Add to it relaxed vibes as well as proximity to Auckland and you will get a very popular place for summer escapes from a big city.

The area was occupied by Maori long time before the arrival of Europeans. Unfortunately, the distance from Auckland, availability of kauri timber and discovery of gold resulted in intense colonisation and Maori lost most of their lands by the 1880s.

The Peninsula was named after HMS Coromandel, a ship of the British Royal Navy that stopped at Coromandel Harbour in 1820 to purchase kauri spars. The ship was named for India’s Coromandel Coast.

The following itinerary encircles the peninsula from east to west and assumes that you have your own transportation.

Day 1 – Waihi, Whangamata, Wentworth Falls, Tairua, Hot Water Beach, Cathedral Cove

The day is busy and packed with attractions so it’s essential to start early. Driving along the east coast of Coromandel Peninsula will reward you with scening summer towns, waterfall, gold and silver mine and hot water beach. All of that finished with the grand finale at famous Cathedral Cove. Let’s start!

Waihi

Gold was first discovered here in 1878 and soon after the Martha Mine became one of the most important gold and silver mines in the world and the reachest one in New Zealand. It closed in 1952 due to change in the gold price, outdated machinery and the world depression of the 1930s. In the 1970s, when the gold price went up again, interest in mining at Waihi returned. The site was reopened as an open pit in 1988.

The detailed story is presented in Gold Discovery Centre and additionally, you can join a guided tour to see modern-day gold mining up close. After putting on safety gear, you will board a van driven by a knowledgable guide that stops in many interesting spots along the way. It’s a different kind of experience comparing to historic mines all over North Island, where you walk through old tunnels and see the machinery.

Tickets are quite expensive though – Gold Discovery Centre 25 NZD, guided tour 39 NZD and combo ticket including both 59 NZD (prices for adults).

Waihi, Coromandel in New Zealand — Open pit in Martha Mine

Van used for guided tours around the mine

Whangamata

Popular summer-holiday town with restaurants, parties, fine beaches such as Whangamata Beach or nearby Onemana Beach and a wide selection of water attractions.

Wentworth Falls

From Whangamata follow Wentworth Valley Road for around 8 kilometres inland. Park your car and head towards Wentworth campsite. From here, the return hike to the falls should take about 2 hours. The track is easy, mostly flat and crosses two bridges on its way. The falls are in two drops of about 20 metres each.

Tairua

Another popular getaway destination with one particularly nice spot to stop by which was once a volcanic island – Mount Paaku. It’s a short but very steep, half an hour return hike with reward panorama of Pauanui and Tairua. The area was also occupated for a long time by Maori tribes.

Coromandel Pennisula — Panorama from Mount Paaku

Hot Water Beach

If you see crowds digging holes in the sand and then jumping into them then yes, you are in a good place. It looks quite ridiculous from the distance but in fact, it really is a unique place! Hot water flows from the depths of the earth to surface in the Pacific Ocean exactly here at Hot Water Beach. You can pay a few dollars to rent a spade or simply ask some friendly folks at the beach. Keep in mind that the best time to create your own natural spa is within two hours either side of low tide. Check the times here.

Cathedral Cove

The place with the famous cathedral-like arch is indeed picturesque but somehow I missed that ‘wow effect’. There is too much hype about it and it’s all over Instagram creating false expectations. All those photos with increased colour saturation and extra effects look nice but when you arrive at the actual place… eyes don’t have extra settings 🙂 Best would be to get here in the late afternoon to avoid crowds. From the parking, it’s about 30-45 minutes hike one way. Alternatively, you can park your car in Hahei and walk from there (60-70 minutes one way), take a bus or water taxi.

Day 2 – Shakespeare Cliff Lookout, Otama Beach, Opito Bay, Waiau Falls, Kauri Grove, Coromandel Town

The second day is fully focused on nature. You will reach remote beaches but also waterfall as well as majestic kauri trees – a cornerstones of the original forests of the North Island.

Shakespeare Cliff Lookout

Scenic reserve located between Cooks Beach and Flaxmill Bay. A very short walk rewards with memorable views of Mercury Bay. You may also spot a cairn that records the arrival in 1769 of the HMS Endeavour under the command of James Cook.

Otama Beach and Opito Bay

Both spots are accessible via Black Jack Road. It’s mostly unsealed but in a good shape so no problems at all with driving a campervan. The long stretch of Otama Beach comes first. Walk around and enjoy remoteness while listening to the sounds of the ocean.

If you continue driving further along a winding road, you will finally arrive at Opito Bay. Here, I recommend you to do exactly the same as at Otama Beach.

Coromandel Pennisula, New Zealand — Otama Beach

Waiau Falls and Kauri Grove

Both attractions are located on Road 309 so you need to drive back from Opito Bay towards Kaimarama and then take a turn to Waiau. After half an hour, there will be parking next to Waiau Falls. It’s only 10 metres high but still a very nice place for a quick stop.

From there, is about 10 minutes hike to kauri grove which was probably the highlight of the day. I had never seen this kind of trees before and damn, I was impressed. Just imagine that back then, the whole Coromandel Peninsula was covered by such a forest! The oldest trees are 600 years old and have about 6m circumference.

Kauri trees are a cornerstone of the original forests of the North Island. They are one of the longest-living tree species in the world as well as the largest.

Tane Mahuta with a diameter of 4.6m and height of 52m is the largest kauri tree still standing. It is estimated to be between 1200 and 2000 years old. You certainly shouldn’t miss seeing it when travelling through Northland.

Kauri timber was used by Maori for a very long time, especially for builduing boats and houses or carving. The gum was used as a fire starter and for chewing.

The arrival of Europeans brought the decimation of these magnificent forests. The mature trees were felled to fulfil the high demand for sawn timber of unsurpassed quality for building. The gum was obtained through digging, fossicking in treetops, or more drastically, by bleeding live trees. Finally, more forest was cleared as demand for farmland.

Coromandel Town

The discovery of gold in the 1860s resulted in an establishment of settlement that quickly grew to over 10.000 inhabitants. Have a walk around the town admiring the Victorian architecture and finish the day with fish & chips and sunset view at Mcgregors Bay.

Mining & Historic Museum located in the historic Coromandel School of Mines building presents the life of mining and its impact on a small town so you may want to visit it in the morning if you are interested.

Coromandel, New Zealand — Architecture in Coromandel Town

Alternative: night in Port Jackson / Fletcher Bay

A very scenic road goes from Coromandel Town to the very top of the peninsula. It’s about 60 km but you have to count at least 2 hours to get there. The road is gravel and very shaky, so I felt a bit insecure while pushing my campervan to its limits already in a first week. I arrived at Macdonald Recreation Reserve, which is more or less halfway and made a decision to turn back.

Nevertheless, if you decide to proceed further, coastal views will certainly take your breath away. It makes sense to drive in the afternoon, stay for the night in one of DOC’s campsites in Fletcher Bay or Port Jackson and come back to Coromandel Town the following day in the morning.

Hiking enthusiasts will be happy as Coromandel Coastal Walkway (3 hours one-way) links Fletcher Bay with Stony Bay and provides fantastic views.

Day 3 – Thames, Pinnacles

The highlight of the last day at Coromandel Peninsula is without doubt a hike to the Pinnacles. But before you head towards Coromandel Forest Park, dive into the gold rush times at well maintened Goldmine Experience in Thames.

Thames

Currently, it’s the largest city on Coromandel Peninsula but back in time, it was even the second-largest city in New Zealand. As usual, all because of the gold rush. At that time it was discovered in the lower Kauaerange valley. Two smaller settlements (Shortland and Grahamstown) were founded to support mining in the early 1860s and later on merged into one forming Thames.

Visit in Goldmine Experience was worth the time and money as it was completely different than modern mine in Waihi. The staff is lovely too and they will certainly tell you more about the story of that place. Wear a helmet to walk through the tunnel and have a look at still working stamper battery in action. It’s really noisy but no worries, you will get ear protection.

School of Mines & Mineralogical Museum is another historical spot on the map of the city. I decided to skip it though as minerals aren’t that interesting for me and the main plan for the day was a hike to Pinnacles.

The Pinnacles Track

After a quick stop in Pak’n’Save to stock with food, I moved on towards Coromandel Forest Park and Kauaeranga Valley. From visitor centre (you may want to ask for maps or weather conditions) it’s another couple of minutes on unsealed road to the parking and start of the hike.

Official timing says it’s 3 hours one way to the hut and another 30-40 minutes to the summit. If you are in a good shape, it’s perfectly doable to reach the hut in about 2 hours. But as always, better assume more and take it easy.

The Pinnacles Track follows the route used by packhorses when carrying supplies for loggers, gum diggers and gold miners who worked in the area during the early 1900s.

First kilometres are rather moderate but the track goes continuously up at some point you may get tired. After reaching the trails junction, you can either continue on the Webb Creek Track or the Billygoat Track. The best and the most popular scenario is to take Webb Creek Track for ascent and then descent following Billygoat Track. That’s exactly what I did as well.

The views are getting better and better the higher you go and the last section will take you to The Pinnacles Hut. It’s a popular overnight place and indeed it must be nice to admire night sky in such a place. I didn’t have a reservation so had a quick lunch instead and then made a final push to the summit.

Very clear message from the staff working in The Pinnacles Hut

The summit seems to be very close but it is a tough ascent, first on the wooden stairs and later on a metal ladder attached to the rocks. Stay focused but don’t forget to look around – that views are the main reason of coming here after all 🙂 Once on the summit, you should feel great satisfaction.

The Pinnacles, Coromandel — The weather was perfect – warm but with some clouds providing shadow

I descended back towards the Pinnacles Hut and then continued all the way to the same trail junction as before, but that time I chose Billygoat Track, finally arriving at the parking where I left my van.

That’s all about the trip to the Coromandel Peninsula. It was a wonderful time packed with beautiful places, history and scenic hikes. I hope you will enjoy it too. And if you have a question, don’t hesitate to leave a comment.

Cheers!

In Europe October 12, 2020

Main Sudetes Trail (Stage 14): Długopole Zdrój – Puchaczówka Pass

The track leaves Długopole Zdrój climbing above railway tracks into the forest. Going at its edge, I could see a nice panorama with farmlands and mountains on the horizon. Shortly after, I left the forest and entered meadows. It seems that whoever planned Main Sudetes Trail, didn’t bother to mark in anyhow in case there were no trees to pain on. Therefore, it was a good couple of kilometres with barely any signs. Luckily, having access to free maps on mapa-turystyczna.pl on the phone, I was able to track my position very precisely and avoid getting lost. I suggest you to do the same!

Trasa: Długopole-Zdrój – Przełęcz Puchaczówka | mapa-turystyczna.pl

Główny Szlak Sudecki — Farmlands seen from a drone

After reaching and crossing road 33, I continued towards Wilkanów where I had my first rest break (around 7 km from the starting point). I knew that the next 6 km will be mostly uphill, so it was a good time to refill calories. First half was rather gentle but the second one leading to Sanctuary of Holy Mary slightly more challenging.

I had a quick look at the church and mountain hut nearby. Views all around the place were super nice! Next, I made a detour to the top of Igliczna (845 m a.s.l.) and came back the same way to rejoin the red track.

Igliczna, Główny Szlak Sudecki — Wonderful landscape around Igliczna

It was nice and quick downhill 3 kilometres bringing me to the second-highest waterfall in the entire Sudetes. Wilczki Falls was created on the line of a tectonic fault, where the Wilczka River falls from a height of 22 meters to the cauldron and continues along a narrow gorge known as the American canyon.

Wodospad Wilczki, Główny Szlak Sudecki — Wilczki Falls in Międzygórze

From there, the red track goes into Międzygórze. In 1840 the town and the vicinity of the Śnieżnik Massif were purchased by Princess Marianna Orańska, wife of the Prussian prince Albrecht Hohenzollern. She initiated the development project, transforming it into a popular summer resort. Walking through the town I could still admire unique 19th century Norwegian and Tyrolean guesthouse buildings.

Międzygórze, Główny Szlak Sudecki — Architecture of Międzygórze which was once a very popular resort

There is another 5-6 km to PTTK Hut on Śnieżnik (1218 m a.s.l.). Its nickname “Swiss” comes from both the style in which the facility was built and the Swiss administrator. Being a very popular destination for day walkers, the path leading to it through the forest is wide and easy to follow. This section is the most challenging part of the day with the highest elevation gain. Pay attention to the nice viewpoint called Goat Rocks (Kozie Skały) on the slope of Średniak.

Śnieżnik, Główny Szlak Sudecki — PTTK Hut on Śnieżnik

The red track doesn’t go to the summit of Śnieżnik but come on – it’s only half an hour away. The decision couldn’t be different and even though I hesitated for a while due to louder and lauder thunders, shortly after I enjoyed spectacular views from the top.

Śnieżnik (1425 m a.s.l.) is the highest peak in the Eastern part of Polish Sudetes. Due to the significant height difference between Śnieżnik and the surrounding peaks, it can be clearly seen from the distance.

I descended the same way and rejoined the red track leading down Śnieżnicka Pass (Przełęcz Śnieżnicka) and further to Snake Glade (Żmijowa Polana) from where there is the last short ascent of the day to Black Mountain (Czarna Góra). Don’t forget to turn around from time to time to have a glimpse at Śnieżnik.

At the top, there is an observation tower but unfortunately closed for tourists. Remaining distance (2 km) to Puchaczówka Pass is quite a steep downhill walk. Best for you would be to find accommodation somewhere in Sienna village. I wasn’t so lucky and had to spend the night a bit further in Villa Diana near Stronie village. Luckily I managed to hitchhike and save my legs from walking on asphalt road. The villa was very nice, with a beautiful garden and breakfast included. It was also the most expensive accommodation during the entire hike, but well. I felt I deserved it 🙂

In New Zealand October 9, 2020

Tauranga & Mount Maunganui – 1 day itinerary

Probably I wouldn’t come to Tauranga if it wasn’t the place where I had to pick up my campervan. I was super excited because it was supposed to be my vehicle and home for the next several weeks. The plan was simple. Finish all formalities quickly and spend the rest of the day exploring the town!

How did I find a car in Tauranga? Well, it was before I even departed to New Zealand. At my boring job, I had enough time for browsing websites of rental companies, reading blogs and articles from other travellers. This is how I came across Kiwi Road Trips and checked their offer of self-contained vans.

After another week of thinking about all pros and cons, I made my mind that it’s the most convenient and affordable way to have my own 4 wheels for a longer period of time. It comes with guaranteed buy-back so I didn’t have to worry about looking for buying in April, which is already after peak season. Karen and Pete explained to me all formalities and we set the date for pick up.

Don’t you worry – there will be a separate article describing all the options that travellers have for renting or buying a car in New Zealand. Stay tuned. Meanwhile, let’s focus on Tauranga.

How to get to Tauranga?

Intercity has a bus network all over the country and they have good deals too. You can buy hours-based travel passes and that should be fine to visit the most popular travel destinations. Needless to say, places that are off-the-beaten-track will be difficult to reach and very often it’s possible only with your own vehicle.

Nearby airport isn’t too busy but there are daily flights to and from Auckland, Wellington or Christchurch.

I will describe the bus trip a bit more because I must say, it was quite entertaining. I boarded the bus in Auckland and everything was fine until on one of the turns it hit the wall of rocks with its left side. Not very hard, but everyone could feel a bump and small pieces of glass were all over the floor. A window was broken. The driver stopped, checked the damage and called the company. The window was still there, just a bit broken. Unfortunately, it could fell apart anytime creating the risk for passengers and other drivers. The solution to the problem was very practical and kiwi style. The driver took a broom, smashed remaining parts of the window, told everyone to move to the front of the vehicle and that was it. We continued the journey to Tauranga, just without 2 windows on the side of the bus. At least we couldn’t complain there wasn’t enough fresh air. Such situations certainly don’t happen too often to stay chilled!

Tauranga, New Zealand — Broken windows in unlucky Intercity connection from Auckland to Tauranga

I was picked by Karen from Kiwi Road Trips at the bus station and after signing documents, it was time to drive out on kiwi roads.

1-day itinerary

Tauranga is the largest city in the Bay of Plenty and one the biggest in the country. Location is very convenient for further exploration of North Island, with Rotorua, Taupo and Tongariro National Park being a short drive away. The city centre isn’t as popular as beachside suburbs – Mount Maunganui or Papamoa. But you know me guys, I always want to see everything so here is where I started.

The Elms – Anglican mission was established here in 1838 by priest Alfred Nesbit Brown and the first buildings in the Bay of Plenty were constructed, initiating regular contact between Maori and Pakeha (white people). Brown worked hard, preaching even in the most remote settlements. Unfortunately, after the war, soldiers settled on the land previously occupied by Māori and the mission declined.

The guide was an absolute highlight of the place. So passionate and dedicated! Even though the entrance ticket isn’t cheap (15 NZD for international guests), it’s a solid part of New Zealand history and shouldn’t be missed.

Mission Cemetery – Visiting the memorials commemorating battles between Maori and British government forces is a great continuation to the visit at the Elms mission house.

Monmouth Redoubt – Another memorial place. Maori fortified village (called pa) Taumatakahawai, used to stand here until it was taken over by British forces during the wars to stop the flow of warriors and support for Maori chiefs.

Tauranga Art Gallery – exhibitions of contemporary works. I’m not a fan of such, so gave it a miss but it does have good reviews so you may want to consider it in your itinerary.

After seeing the most interesting sights in Tauranga, I got into my car and drove to the nearby beachside suburb of Mount Maunganui. It’s hard to miss an extinct volcanic cone at the end of peninsula seen from the distance and that was exactly where I was heading. Maunganui means big mountain but let’s say that with the elevation of 232 m a.s.l. the name is rather overexaggerated.

Mauao Reserve – There has been evidence of three fortified villages (pa) on top of and around Mauao making it an important and sacred site for Maori. Several walking paths run in the area, the most popular being the summit walk. You would need about 35-50 minutes to get to the top and it can be done following Oruahine Track, Waikorire Track or 4WD Track. Check the map here. It’s quite steep and more tiring than it looks like but the views are nice, especially in the direction of the ocean. The base track around the mountain is popular as well and it’s 3.4 km long, taking about 45 minutes to complete.

Main Beach and Pilot Bay Beach – The first one is on the side of the ocean, which makes it very popular among those looking for bigger waves. There is also Moturiki Island easily accessible from the beach. The second one is located on the side of the bay and is usually much calmer and better for kids.

Mount Hot Pools (optional) – Located just at the feet of Maunganui. The bath in hot saltwater doesn’t sound bad and certainly will help you to recover energy after a full day of sightseeing.

Minden Lookout – Being located about 13 kilometres from the city centre, it was my last stop for that day. The easiest is to follow State Highway 2 and then turn left into Minden Road in Te Puna. Wide panorama of the Bay of Plenty is certainly worth extra kilometres.

From there, it was time to stock up with groceries so I made my way to Pack’n’Save. It has the opinion of being the cheapest supermarket in New Zealand and they also have discounts for fuel which is another benefit for road trips.

Karen and Pete recommended me to stay the first night in the campervan at McLaren Falls, 190 hectares of parkland set alongside Lake McLaren. Parking for campervans costs 10 NZD and it was indeed a very nice place in nature with clean toilets, sink and electric grills.

In Europe October 7, 2020

Main Sudetes Trail (Stage 13): Duszniki Zdrój – Długopole Zdrój

If you read the previous post, you know that my plans for stage 12 had to be adjusted due to the rain and I decided to stay overnight in Duszniki Zdrój. It didn’t seem to be a problem at first, but I totally forgot that on the next day the long weekend starts and it could be more difficult to book accommodation on the way, especially mountains huts. And this was exactly where I wanted to stay 🙂 When I called PTTK Jagodna Hut in the morning asking for bed, they only started to laugh as everything was booked out weeks before. Sleeping on the floor was also not an option due to COVID-19 restrictions.

Route: Duszniki Zdrój to Długopole Zdrój
Distance: ~ 39 km

Trasa: Duszniki-Zdrój – Długopole-Zdrój | mapa-turystyczna.pl

At that point, it was clear that I have to hike all the way to Długopole Zdrój. I made a few phone calls trying to book a room and in the end, find one free at Aleksander Resort. Way overpriced, same as all the other places on that weekend. Seems like Polish people were so sick of spending time at home due to COVID-19 that once restrictions were loosened and bank holiday came, everyone set off for short city break.

Starting at Duszniki Zdrój market square, I passed the spa part of town and started the ascent towards Zieleniec, which is located 11 kilometres from the start point. The path goes very gently until Podgórze and from there it’s a bit more challenging but nothing extraordinary.

Duszniki Zdrój, Główny Szlak Sudecki — Panorama of Duszniki Zdrój

I heard the noise of cars coming from the top of the hill and unfortunately, shortly after I saw an asphalt road. It’s the Sudetes Highway. The only thing that road has in common with real highways is the name. Luckily, it’s an advantage for hikers as the red track follows it all the way to Zieleniec. Traffic is minimal so just keep to the left edge of the road and it should be fine.

Zieleniec, Główny Szlak Sudecki — PTTK Orlica Hut

With all that ski lifts around, Zieleniec must be a busy place in winter. Without snow though, it was a rather dead place and I only made a short stop at PTTK Orlica Hut to have a drink and snack.

The tracks descents 4 kilometres towards Nature Reserve Pod Zieleńcem. It’s the area with peat bogs, not very visible from the main trail but you could easily make a short detour and get closer following one of the local paths.

Torfowisko pod Zieleńcem, Główny Szlak Sudecki — Nature Reserve pod Zieleńem

From here to Spalona and PTTK Jagodna Hut is around 15 kilometres without any significant elevation differences. I passed the village of Lasówka with a picturesque church. Great place for short picnic lunch. After that was a bit monotonous section through the forest until I popped out close to the ski lift at Spalona. Following it all the way to the top of the hill, I reached extremely busy at that time PTTK Jagodna Hut. Long weekend, lunchtime, mountain hut accessible by cars. All of these means one thing – crowds.

If you have time or you stay for the night in the hut, there is an easy trail blue going to the highest peak of Bystrzyckie Mountains – Jagodna (977 m n.p.m.). It’s around 4 kilometres, taking 1 hour one way. The views are particularly nice from the newly build viewing tower.

Main Sudetes Trail (red) continues from PTTK Jagodna Hut on the Sudetes Highway for 4 kilometres when it turns left and descents to Ponikwa. Be careful not to miss the sign. Before Ponikwa, it passes through the grasslands with the walking track being barely visible. The easiest is to just follow the grass crushed by other walkers and head in the direction of the buildings.

Shortly after leaving Ponikwa, the trail turns left and continues on the gravel road to my final destination. Luckily, that time I left the forest just in front of my hotel, so no more extra kilometres. It was a long day and sightseeing had to wait for the next day in the morning.

Długopole Zdrój is the smallest and probably least popular spa town along Main Sudetes Trail. The water flowing out of the excavation area of the old mine was taken for tests and proved to be healthy enough. The spa town was established in 1802 as Bad Langenau and therapeutic baths started shortly after. It’s worth to have a look at the pump house and try mineral waters. Other than that, there is nothing else to do.

In New Zealand October 4, 2020

Waiheke – one day on the island

Waiheke was my second island escape from big city life in Auckland. Fantastic beaches, watersports, hiking, fishing, wineries. It seems that Waiheke has it all and it would be really difficult to be bored there. How lucky Aucklanders are to be surrounded by such places!

How to get to Waiheke?

The island can be easily accessed with the same operator that took me to Rangitoto and Motutapu Islands before – Fullers 360. The ferry ride from the Auckland City Centre takes around 40 minutes and costs 42 NZD for the return trip.

Waiheke Island, New Zealand — Approaching ferry terminal in Matatia Bay

How to get around?

After arriving at the ferry terminal at Matatia Bay, I purchased one day ticket for public bus service. It costs around 10 NZD and takes people to various locations on the island with plenty of stops on the way.

waiheke map — Source: https://www.tourismwaiheke.co.nz/

There is also a more expensive alternative of HOP-ON HOP-OFF bus served by Fullers 360. It’s more like a tour bus that has set stops limited to the attractions and wineries. Combined ticket including return ferry ride plus the bus costs 68 NZD. Unless you want to reach a place that is beyond public bus service and on the other hand is included on the route of HOP-ON HOP-OFF, I don’t see the benefit of choosing that option.

Another means of transport include bicycles, scooters, rental cars or taxis.

One day itinerary

The first ferry from Auckland to Waiheke was scheduled at 8 AM and to have as much time as possible on the island, I was obviously on board. The morning seemed to be very cloudy but shortly after arrival at Matatia Bay, the sun was already burning my neck. I didn’t repeat the mistake from Rangitoto and that time I immediately put a sun cream all over my exposed skin.

I purchased a daily ticket for public bus service and boarded line 502 heading towards Rocky Bay. The driver seemed to be surprised that I’m going there and for a short moment it made me hesitate. Luckily, I didn’t change my mind. The less popular the place the better!

The reason why I wanted to go there was Whakanewha Regional Park. The place was absolutely awesome and probably I could spend the whole day just here, hiking all the tracks. It was still some time before high tide and the ocean looked like a bigger pool a few hundred meters from me.

I followed Dotties Lane Track first, then completed two small loops: Rua Loop Track and Pa Look Track. In the end, I couldn’t resist going all the way to Cascades Stream with waterfalls, following Nikau Track that later joins Tarata Track. All of them were excellent hikes in a completely new type of forest for me. At least back then, because the next 3 months in New Zealand brought even more natural surprises. People don’t even call it a forest here. It’s a bush. Bush full of ferns, palms and birds singing all over the place.

The visit to Whakanewha Regional Park took me around 2-3 hours. You can check out the detailed map of the place published on the Auckland Council website.

My next destination was Onetangi Bay and due to peak hour, all buses seemed to be full of tourists. Google maps shown it was just around an hour walk to get there, with the chance to visit Waiheke Museum on the way, more or less following Waiheke Cross-Island Walkway. Why not? 🙂

There is a reconstructed woolshed with exhibits, old cottage, three bach-style houses, telephone exchange and building of the jail. It’s a really nice place to understand the history of the island. Entry by donation.

Weiheke Island, New Zealand — *Weiheke Museum* is a good short stop along the way

Onetangi Beach had nice sand and there were much fewer people than I expected. A pleasant place for quick swim and lunch.

I caught the bus 502 again, that time going towards Blackpool Beach. Calm and quiet place only with a single kitesurfer and moored yachts. When I proceed along the Esplanade, unexpectedly I saw a picturesque wreck visible in full size due to low tide. It’s the hulk of the trading scow Rahir.

As mentioned before, Waiheke is famous for two reasons: beaches and vineyards. Beaches checked. Time to have a break and do a wine tasting. At that moment the closest place was Mudbrick Vineyard and Restaurant and that was where I headed. For 10 NZD I had the chance to sample 3 different kind of liquid pleasure. It tasted even better on their lovely shaded terrace.

The last stop was Oneroa Beach, approximately half an hour walk but after some wine, I was fast as the wind. Oneroa was my least favourite beach on the island. Being so close to the ferry terminal, it’s very accessible and popular, somehow lacking the atmosphere.

One day on the island was just fine and fulfilled my expectations. On the other hand, I wouldn’t say that that 2 or 3 days would be too long either. With so many things to do, time can fly very fast and if you are tired enough, nothing is better than a glass of wine or chilling at the beach.

In Europe September 30, 2020

Main Sudetes Trail (Stage 12): Kudowa Zdrój – Duszniki Zdrój

The plan for that stage was more ambitious at first, but weather conditions verified it quickly. Hitting the road in Kudowa Zdrój, I turned into Słoneczna Street passing Ecocentre of Table Mountains National Park, crossing the road leading to Dańczów and in the end, arriving at Lewińska Pass (535 m a.s.l.) about 6 kilometres from starting point.

Route: Kudowa Zdrój to Duszniki Zdrój
Distance: ~ 15 km

Trasa: Kudowa-Zdrój – Duszniki-Zdrój | mapa-turystyczna.pl

The views until now were quite nice, despite gloomy and foggy atmosphere. The track took me through the fields and in one place there was even the gate for cattle with little wooden steps allowing hikers to pass. Something similar to what I experienced before in the Alps or New Zealand.

It’s another 3 kilometres of the gentle uphill walk towards Grodziec (803 m a.s.l.). Here I need to stop to wear rainjacket and put a rain cover on my backpack as what was initially a small shower, turned into heavy rain. There is not too much joy in such a walk and for the first time came through my mind the idea of shortening the walk for today and staying for the night in Duszniki Zdrój.

After 2 kilometres of descent from Grodziec, I arrived at the crossroad with the blue trail leading towards the ruins of Homole Castle from XIII-XIV century. As it’s only 10-15 minutes detour, I decided to check it out. The route was an easy one. First wooden boardwalk and then steps leading to the top of the castle hill. I was really happy to see the bench there as I could take off my backpack, make a sandwich and enjoy the moment without rain. I was the only person there and the fog made the atmosphere very unique.

When it comes to the ruins, there is not much left to explore and I simply walked around something that used to be the tower.

All the remaining way to Duszniki Zdrój is on a slightly downhill route, the only difficulty being mud. After around 4 kilometres, I was already in the office of tourist information, asking for their recommendation of an overnight stay. My preference was PTTK Hut Under the Muflon, however, they were fully booked. In COVID-19 times it’s better to always call and ask in advance for availability. I ended up in Agrotourism at Baltazar which happened to be quite far from the centre.

It was only around noon, so having the rest of the day free, I decided to visit the Museum of Papermaking. The ticket costs 22 PLN and it’s an interesting place to kill an hour or two. Their permanent exhibition is about the history of paper and the way it is made in the world as well as more specifically in the Silesia region of Poland. The interesting part is that you can observe the whole process live and even take part in the workshops.

Other than that, Duszniki Zdrój is another spa town en route Main Sudetes Trail and according to me, one of the most charming ones. Spa treatments began in 1751 and in 1822 pump room with mineral waters was built. During next years, development continued and many famous people visited the town, such as Frederic Chopin, who gave two charity concerts in 1826 and Felix Mendelssohn-Bartholdy, German composer. Frederic Chopin Theatre, established in the place where Chopin gave his concerts, as well as market square are worth to have a look too.

Murals nearby market square in Duszniki Zdrój — Murals nearby market square

That was it for that day. I walked all the way back to the accommodation where I stayed for the remaining part of day, simply resting and eating tons of fruits that I bought in local supermarket!

In Indonesia September 29, 2020

Night trip to Mount Ijen: blue fire, acidic lake and sunrise

Kawah Ijen is an active but recently quiet volcano in East Java. Being home to the natural phenomenon of blue fire, it attracts thousands of tourists ready to set off in the middle in the night to witness the unique flames that can be seen only here and in Iceland!

How to get there?

Mount Ijen is located in East Java and the easiest way to get there is by ferry from Bali or from the nearest airport in Surabaya. Tour operators offer 1 day trip from Bali with pick up at your hotel and it is popular among tourists. Keep in mind that East Java has much more to offer so staying longer is definitely a better idea.

For independent travellers, the best is to base yourself at Banyuwangi and look for private transport (car/scooter) or organized tour there.

123movies

Where to stay?

Javalindra Homestay was a perfect base for exploring the area. The room, as well as a shared bathroom, were very clean, there was a spacious hall with a comfortable couch for chilling, they provide breakfast and rent scooters as well. Plus the owner is simply a friendly guy and he even dropped me to the bus station when I was about to leave to Semarang.

If you tell them about your plans to go to Ijen, they will also provide you with a breathing mask which is obligatory and at least partially helps to handle the intense smell of gases. You could also get one later from one of the guys hanging out at Ijen, but the quality may be questionable.

Adventure begins

The alarm went off at 11:30 PM. Time to start a new day before the previous ends! It was really hard to play it right as I usually don’t go to sleep very early so even though I tried to force myself to fall asleep at 9 PM, it turned out to be big failure.

Quickly packed some warm clothes and hat (the summit is at 2,799 metres a.s.l. so it can get chilly up there), headlight, camera, snacks, put on my hiking boots and it was a few minutes past midnight when I turned on the engine of my rented scooter.

Ijen volcano in Indonesia — Masks are a must when walking on Ijen

The night was cold and very dark as I was basically the only vehicle on the road. At some point, I was wondering if I am going the right way, but the closer I got, the more cars there were. After 1.5 hours (yes, it’s quite a long drive) I arrived the parking lot where first organized groups had their hot drinks before the hike to the crater.

The entrance ticket costs 100.00O IDR on weekdays and 150.000 IDR on the weekends. From the ticket office, the path goes steeply uphill but it’s wide and well maintained. You certainly don’t need a guide and it’s impossible to lose the way. Having said that, be prepared to meet many guys who normally work in the crater getting the sulphur out of it and carrying in big baskets down to the village. They usually offer to take tourists down to the crater for another 150.000 or 200.000 IDR as it’s on their way anyway.

It’s not big money so if you find it more comforting than descending on your own, go for it. I was hesitating because I started the hike quite early and there weren’t too many people to follow. If this is the case, just have a snack and wait patiently for the first wave of tourists, then follow them. In the end, they all go to the same spot, so it’s easy to follow their headlights.

From the beginning of the hike, depending on your fitness, it takes roughly 1-1.5 hours to reach the caldera rim. Here you can decide to either continue hiking up to the sunrise spot or descent down to the crater and see the blue fire. Obviously, most of the people go down to the fire first and then come back all the way up for sunrise (usually around 5 -5:45 AM depending on the time of year).

Descent to the crater is on a rocky path but nothing too challenging. It just looks more difficult than it really is in the middle of the night. Here you should already put your gas mask on. After 20-30 minutes you should be already next to the largest highly acidic crater lake in the world waiting for the spectacle of blue fire. The pH of the water containing hydrochloric and sulphuric acids is less than 0.3, meaning it can dissolve metal. It has a unique turquoise-green colour which you won’t be able to see in the dark, but certainly later on after sunrise.

Being there, I had time to simply stand in silence and watch the work of sulphur miners. They are residents of nearby villages, working without masks, walking the same route as tourists do but 3-4 times a day and with the load up to 80 kg on their back. All of these for around 800-1,000 IDR per kilo of sulphur which sounds like a joke but unfortunately it’s true. That’s why they also offer to be your guide or sell small souvenirs made from sulphur.

Mount Ijen, Indonesia — Sulphur miner working just next to the blue fire

Finally, the blue fire went off and it was truly amazing to observe, even though I expected it to be a bit larger. I had the big luck to be in the crater way before all organized groups and I easily spent there over 45 minutes before it got crowded. From time to time the cloud of gases was blown by the wind into my direction but it wasn’t anything too disturbing. Just wear the mask, close your eyes and watch out for your electronics if you don’t want them to end up rusty.

The blue fire is a result of sulphuric gases combusting. They escape through the cracks in the volcano at high pressure and temperatures up to 600 C and igniting after reaction with air. The blue fire is often mistaken for lava, as some of the gases turn into liquid sulphur and keep burning on the slopes of Ijen.

I started my way back to the crater rim and after passing the crowds going in the opposite direction, I was sooooo happy I got to the fire early enough to avoid them. It was like a long line of headlights on the path. From there, I continued up towards the sunrise viewpoint.

Mount Ijen in Indonesia — Sunrise at Mount Ijen

The views and colours of the sky were really impressive. I saw the most sunrises in my life in Indonesia and it was certainly one of the most spectacular ones. Finally, after wandering in the darkness, I could admire the whole landscape of Mount Ijen around me.

At the top, I met a group of friendly local folks that wanted to take a picture together. Why not, my pleasure! In fact, it happens in many places. Somehow I can’t imagine that someone stops another person on the street in Europe, just because of different skin colour and asks for pictures. But people in Indonesia don’t create stupid and unnecessary social borders as we do and they are extremely friendly.

The way down took me a while, not because it was difficult but rather because I couldn’t stop taking pictures. The lake inside the crater and the place where I was just an hour ago next to the blue fire were clearly visible now.

If you don’t feel like walking, local guys will be happy to take you down in carts. It looks a bit ridiculous for me, but in the end, it’s another way to somehow support this hard-working community.

Once back at the parking, I had to wipe the seat of the scooter as it was all wet from morning dew. Put my helmet on, turned on the keys and… the engine didn’t start! I was sure I had enough fuel and I used the same scooter the day before without any problems. Luckily, some locals seeing me struggling hard, helped me to start the engine in an old-style way – with kick start. Indonesia was the first country where I drove scooter nearly every day so I didn’t have all the knowledge 🙂 This is something that I value a lot in this country. Even if you travel alone, far away and you need help – you can always count on it. It’s a totally different mindset than in Europe where everyone minds their own business.

Would I recommend the night trip to Mount Ijen?

Definitely. Night trip to the active volcano to admire spectacular nature is definitely something that I love and fits well into my travel character. I can easily put it next to ascents to Semeru, Inierie or Kerinci, also in the middle in the night, to see the sunrise from the summits.

Mount Ijen is much less demanding comparing to those, making it more accessible for moderate hikers. On the other hand accessibility make it crowded.

5 tips before your go

Go early and do it by yourself

Arrive at the crater before organized tours. It will give you enough time to enjoy the blue fire and take nice photos. To do this, start from Banyuwangi around midnight. I wouldn’t bother too much with joining tours unless you need it for psychical comfort. You certainly don’t need a guide to walk around and find your way. To go independently, hire a scooter or a car with driver (ask at your accommodation).

Take warm clothes and gas mask

The temperature certainly won’t be like in the middle of the night in Bali. It’s gonna be much colder so take enough layers to feel comfortable. Your clothes will need proper washing afterwards or everyone will know that you were at Ijen last night (intense smell of sulphur). A gas mask can be hired at your accommodation or from one of the guys on the way to the crater.

Take hiking shoes

It isn’t a hardcore hike but still a hike and proper shoes will make it much more enjoyable, especially when descending down to the crater.

Avoid the cloud of gases

Once next to the blue fire, try to get off the way of the cloud of gases occasionally being blown by the wind all over the place. If you can’t avoid it, close your eyes and hide your camera under the jacket.

Be friendly and support local community

Local guys can be a bit pushy and try to convince you to use their services as a guide. Take one if you wish or refuse politely and keep going. Small sulphur figures are great souvenirs from the place have small money and buy some for yourself or your friends.

In Europe September 27, 2020

Main Sudetes Trail (Stage 11): Wambierzyce – Kudowa Zdrój

Wambierzyce town is located at around 204th kilometre of the Main Sudetes Trail and Kudowa Zdrój at 232nd. It means that somewhere between these two, I should celebrate half-way of my adventure! I was looking forward to that day also because of another reason. The track leads through the scenic Table Mountains and from what I saw online, I had all the reasons to believe that it’s gonna be awesome!

Route: Wambierzyce to Kudowa Zdrój
Distance: ~28-30km

Trasa: Wambierzyce – Kudowa-Zdrój | mapa-turystyczna.pl

The beginning of the day was quite miserable due to boring terrain, asphalt roads and light rain. It started to look better after 4th kilometre when I passed Studzienno and entered the Table Mountains National Park. The path was going up towards Rogacz (707 m a.s.l.). More and more weird rock formations looked at me from behind the trees. Exactly what I had been waiting for!

The terrain here is totally unbelievable and it looked even more unbelievable in cloudy and a bit foggy weather conditions. The shapes of some rocks resemble huge mushrooms, hence its name – Mushroom Rocks (Skalne Grzyby). They owe it to erosion progress of sandstone, which is way faster in the lower parts of the rocks. I admit I spent a lot of time photographing everything but it’s always a learning process to become a better photographer. Honestly, it doesn’t matter how much time I take for my shots, I am never fully satisfied with the end result. Maybe it’s lack of talent or maybe endless pursuit for perfection.

Anyway, from Rogacz it’s around 5,5 kilometres to the parking lot at Stormy Meadow (Burzowa Łąka). As always, parking lots mean that there could be more people around and the rule proved to be right also that time. I mean more people for the Main Sudetes Trail standards because usually, it was rather no people at all. Even here it wasn’t as busy as one could expect. Tourism in COVID-19 times hasn’t come back to shape yet.

The track continues of the mostly flat path called The Road Over The Cliff for further 5 kilometres. At some point, there is a small path going right (5 minutes detour). Walk it till the end and you will understand the meaning of that name. Then, the next major landmark is the Great Szczeliniec (Szczeliniec Wielki, 919m a.s.l.).

Szczeliniec Wielki w Górach Stołowych — Track leading to Szczeliniec Wielki

Even though the red track doesn’t lead to the top, it’s hard to resist a detour. It’s a tiring way up on the stony stairs but the place was definitely one of the biggest highlights of the day and should not be missed. There is a mountain hut at the top, in case you are in need of a hot meal or drink. The way down is even better and I recommend taking the paid alternative. It’s only 12 PLN and hiking through the amazing maze of rocks takes about 1 hour. The formations are incredible! Some parts may be very narrow and tricky with a big backpack, but it’s doable.

After the descent, I reached Karłów which is a midpoint of GSS. I felt big satisfaction of what I achieved so far and maybe it made me lose concentration and as a result, I took a wrong turn following red track but for ski runners, not hikers. Honestly, I find it very misleading to use the same colours and it took me a long time to realize that something is wrong. The signage could definitely be improved. Mapa-turystyczna.pl helped me to find my way but the whole situation cost me at least 1 hour and a few useless kilometres in my legs. Just pay attention here and don’t turn right too early. The track follows an asphalt road leading to the Errant Rocks (Błędne Skały) which is around 5 kilometres from Karłów. I had to speed up as the place was closing at 5 pm. The advantage of late arrival (4:10 pm) was that there were only a few other tourists.

The whole attraction is very similar to the Great Szczeliniec and doesn’t make such a big impression if you have already visited the other one. Crossing with the backpack was really difficult and I had to take it off in many places, struggling to push it through. I suggest to leave the luggage at the ticket office and simply come back to collect it afterwards. By doing that, your walkthrough should be much more enjoyable.

Błędne Skały, Góry Stołowe — Unique rock formations in the Errant Rocks

*Passing through the Errant Rocks with backpack isn’t easy*

Last part of the day was made by a long (~7km) descent to Kudowa Zdrój. I was really, really tired and still had to walk to the other side of the town as I didn’t pay too much attention to the localization of my guesthouse when booking it. Don’t get me wrong, the localization was awesome, but at that moment every 100 meters mattered. In the end, the day was finished with 38 kilometres on my Endomondo training.

I can fully recommend Guest Rooms Under Lions (Pokoje Gościnne pod Lwami). Super friendly owner and very close to the main attractions of the towns in case you want to do some sightseeing. And obviously, you should do that!

What to see in Kudowa Zdrój?

The history of the spa town dates back to the beginning of the 17th century when information about the positive effects on the health of the mineral waters from Kudowa springs appeared for the first time. Only a hundred years later, bottles filled with them were regularly sent to the royal court in Berlin.

Skull Chapel

In the small building located in Czermna (one of the districts of Kudowa Zdrój) there are about 23 thousands of human skulls all over the walls and ceiling. Father Tomaszek, collected human remains that remained in the surrounding fields after the Thirty Years ‘War in 1618-1648, the Seven Years’ War (1756-1763) and the great plague of 1680. As no one was able to provide the deceased with a proper burial, and the dogs were digging up bones from the ground, the priest decided to take care of them by moving to the chapel and crypt. It is believed that he got the idea during his trip to Rome, after visiting the local catacombs.

Spa Park

It was established in the 18th century on the model of English parks and significantly expanded in the 19th century. Nice place to walk around! There is a small lake, fountains as well as a forested hill for those looking for a more challenging stroll. Mineral waters are available in drinking room.

Trail of Vanishing Trades

A time spend here is like a journey back to the past, to learn about the jobs our ancestors did, such as blacksmithing, baking bread, pottery or knitting. There is also a mini ZOO which should entertain the children for a while. Overall it’s a pretty small open-air museum, so unless you have the time to kill or you are really interested in the topic, give it a miss.

Other less impressive sights in town include: Museum of Minerals, Museum of Toys or Museum of Folk Culture of the Sudety Foothills.

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What are glowworms?

How much does it cost?

What to take?

Glowworm Cave Tour

Black River Rafting

Raukiri Cave Tour

Other sights in the area

Mangapohue Natural Bridge

Marokopa Falls

Piripiri Cave

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Day 1 – Waihi, Whangamata, Wentworth Falls, Tairua, Hot Water Beach, Cathedral Cove

Waihi

Whangamata

Wentworth Falls

Tairua

Hot Water Beach

Cathedral Cove

Day 2 – Shakespeare Cliff Lookout, Otama Beach, Opito Bay, Waiau Falls, Kauri Grove, Coromandel Town

Shakespeare Cliff Lookout

Otama Beach and Opito Bay

Waiau Falls and Kauri Grove

Coromandel Town

Alternative: night in Port Jackson / Fletcher Bay

Day 3 – Thames, Pinnacles

Thames

The Pinnacles Track

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How to get to Tauranga?

1-day itinerary

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How to get to Waiheke?

How to get around?

One day itinerary

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How to get there?

Where to stay?

Adventure begins

Would I recommend the night trip to Mount Ijen?

5 tips before your go

Go early and do it by yourself

Take warm clothes and gas mask

Take hiking shoes

Avoid the cloud of gases

Be friendly and support local community

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What to see in Kudowa Zdrój?

Skull Chapel

Spa Park

Trail of Vanishing Trades

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