In Vietnam April 28, 2023

Mixed feelings after visiting Cat Tien National Park in Vietnam

Cat Tien is one of the most famous National Parks in Vietnam. Located in the southern part of the country, it is home to a unique and diverse ecosystem that includes tropical forests, wetlands, and even a dry evergreen forest. Here, visitors will discover a wide variety of wildlife, including rare species of birds, primates, and reptiles. Not only is this park a haven for nature lovers, but it also offers some activities for those looking for a bit of adventure. From day hikes to overnight camping, there’s something for everyone. I spent 2 full days in the park and left with mixed impressions. Let me show you what the part has to offer and what disappointed me.

How to get there?

From Ho Chi Minh City, you can take a bus from the Mien Dong (Eastern) Bus Station to the town of Dai Ninh, located just outside of Cat Tien National Park. From there, you can take a taxi or motorbike to the park. Alternatively, if you are travelling from other cities in Vietnam, you can take a bus or train to either Bao Loc or Dalat and arrange transport from there.

You may also check your connections at 123Go.Asia.

When to go?

The best time to visit Cat Tien National Park is during the dry season, which runs from December to May. During this time, the weather is more pleasant, making it ideal for trekking and exploring the park.

Cat Tien National Park, Vietnam — River panorama and one of the gibbons at Bear and Gibbon Rescue Center

Where to stay?

My stay at Thuy Tien Eco Lodge was definitely one of the most pleasant experiences in that area. I was upgraded to the bigger room which was clean, with air-conditioning and a hot water shower. The internet was fast and I could work online without any issues. The owner was really sweet and she helped me organize my time in the park and gave me some tips.

What to take?

It’s a tropical environment and there are a few items that you definitely should take with you, to make your trip enjoyable and safe.

1. Sunscreen

2. Insect Repellent

3. Leech socks

4. Hat

5. Sunglasses

6. Lightweight and comfortable clothing

7. Trekking shoes

8. Water bottle

9. Snacks

10. Raincoat or poncho

11. First aid kit

12. Camera

13. Binoculars

14. Map of the park

Entrance fee

The ticket for a boat that takes you across the Dong Nai River costs 60.000 VND. There is no other way to get inside, so you must take it. The crossing literally takes one minute or even less.

Renting a bicycle

There are several options to rent a bike: 30.000 VND for 1 hour, 100.000 VND for 4 hours or 150.000 VND for 8 hours. Unfortunately, the bicycles are total rubbish so take your time and choose wisely. The rental place is just to the left of the Visitor Center.

Do-it-yourself activities

Tung Tree

In the park, there are many tall trees which are hundreds of years old and Tung Tree is one of them, with a height of 20 meters and a width of 10 meters. The roots of the trees sit on the ground and are absolutely breathtaking. When walking through the jungle and approaching this tree, you can feel like Tomb Raider!

Ben Cu Rapids

Nothing too spectacular, at least in the dry season. You can walk around the stones to get closer to the river but unfortunately, the area was full of rubbish. Very sad view, especially inside the National Park. It seems like rangers are too busy doing nothing instead of moving their asses to clean a bit!

Uncle Dong Tree

Another impressive tree. This time it is a genus of redwood tree with 2 meters diameter.

Botanical Garden

It’s a series of paths through the jungle, very close to the riverside. The names of plants and trees are included on the boards. Very pleasant walk!

Heaven’s Rapids

The series of rapids is located about 12 km away from the Visitor Center. The road to get there is a bit bumpy, especially on low-quality rental bicycles. You can easily do it together with other sights on the way: Tung Tree, Ben Cu Rapids, Botanical Garden, and Uncle Dong Tree (small detour needed). Unfortunately, similar to Ben Cu Rapids, there were lots of plastic bottles in the water. It isn’t my definition of heaven!

Crocodile Lake

This is the classic trekking route in Cat Tien and is not to be missed. Take a bicycle for about 9 km on the main park road to the beginning of the trail. Then hike 5 km to reach the lake. You might see giant trees, rare peafowl, water birds, monkeys and of course Siamese crocodiles. And if you don’t see, for sure you will hear a lot of wildlife around you. This was certainly the best hike in the park, even though the entrance fee of 250.000 VND at the lake seemed to be too high. You can stay overnight at the Ranger Station with advance reservations which of course will give you priceless opportunities to watch wildlife in the night and at dusk.

Garlic-Shaped Lagerstroemia Tree

From Crocodile Lake, the unpaved road continues for another 3 km to these unique trees. At the end of April, the forest here was full of butterflies making the whole ride even more amazing!

6 Rooted Intersecting Ficus

On the way to or from Crocodile Lake, do not forget to stop to see this wonder of nature. I felt like inside the Lord of the Rings movie, only waiting for that tree to move and grab me with its roots.

Bear and Gibbon Rescue Center

It is located just next to the visitor centre and is free to visit. However, it looks a bit creepy. The gate was open but I couldn’t see any staff member around so I just walked around. I couldn’t see any moon bears or sun bears inside but there were a few gibbons in the cages. I hope they are treated well!

Ta Lai Village

The place is located 12 km from the Visitor Center and is populated by Ma, Stieng, and Tay people. The Ma and Stieng people are the original inhabitants of the Park’s Core Zone. Here you can experience daily life in a rural community. You can come here on a bicycle following the western bank of the Dong Nai River or on a motorbike following the eastern bank.

Activities

Wild Gibbon Trek

The most famous activity in the park brought me a lot of mixed feelings. The tours are limited to 4 people per day and we started at 5 AM in the morning when a boat took us to the visitor centre where we were greeted by our guide. Then we walked to the area next to Tung Tree, where we made a short stop and then continued deeper into the jungle. Soon, we were able to hear incredibly loud sounds made by the gibbons so we followed in this direction. The whole singing spectacle lasted about 10-15 minutes and then it got quiet. We could see some gibbons eating high in the trees. After a while, we came back to the visitor centre and the tour finished. Overall, it was great to hear and see gibbons in the wild. The tour took about 2 hours and cost 1.150.000 VND. Was it worth the time? Definitely yes. Was it worth the money? Definitely not. I found the tour highly overpriced and the guides also weren’t too eager to share some information about gibbons and wildlife in general.

Boat ride to Ta Lai

If you like water and birds, it is recommended to take a boat trip on the Dong Nai River. The trip downstream to Tai Lai Village is a great way to see the park from the waterfront. There is not much to do in the village itself so the whole activity is rather about sightseeing from the water and not about the final destination. The round trip takes about 3 hours.

Night Safari

Night spotting is the easiest way to see mammals. Ride in an open-air truck through the jungle to observe wild animals such as deer, wild pigs, snakes, porcupines, gaur and weasels as they forage for food on the grasslands or in bushes during the night.

Dao Tien Engangered Primate Species Center

Dao Tien Island is just 5 minutes upstream from the boat landing. The centre specializes in the rescue, rehabilitation and release of endangered primates naturally found in the area of the park: golden-cheeked gibbons, black-shanked douc, silvered langur and pygmy loris. Most of the animals who are helped at this centre were victims of the illegal wildlife trade. The local guide will explain more about their stories and the job that the centre does. At the time of my visit (April 2023), there was only one tour per day and it was at 8 AM, so you need to be at the visitor centre at around 7.45 AM.

Final thoughts

Even though the time in nature is always great, I left Cat Tien National Park with mixed feelings. In my opinion, the number one attraction called Wild Gibbon Trek is highly overpriced. Moreover, I saw rubbish all over Ben Cu Rapids and Heaven’s Rapids. I also saw many park rangers who didn’t do anything besides chilling in the hammock. Then, where does all the money earned from park attractions goes? They could just walk around ONCE A WEEK to collect the trash if there is any. But yeah, what’s the point? It’s Vietnam and no one cares anyway.

In Vietnam April 2, 2023

Ban Gioc: the most spectacular waterfall in Vietnam

The Ban Gioc is undoubtedly the largest and most beautiful waterfall in Vietnam. It is 30 meters high and 300 meters wide with the water flowing from 3 levels. It is fed by the Quay Son River and is part of the Cao Bang Non-Nuoc Geopark, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The location is directly on the border of Vietnam and China, so you can see Vietnamese tourists on one side of the falls, and Chinese on the other. They both take rafts to get closer to the massive main falls of Bang Gioc. On the Vietnamese side, some other small waterfalls can be admired to the left of their big brother.

I visited Ban Gioc in March 2023, approaching on a motorbike from the town of Cao Bang, which is on the Vietnamese side and the post describes that experience.

The visit to Ban Gioc is another example when the destination itself wasn’t the only beautiful thing to see. The whole ride there, through the countryside filled with karsts, observing local minorities doing their daily work, was simply mindblowing.

Ban Gioc Waterfall in Vietnam — The people of the Cao Bang region

Costs

At the moment of writing this article, the ticket to Ban Gioc Waterfall costs 40,000 VND per person. Motorbike parking is an additional 10,000 VND and going on a raft is 50,000 VND.

Rafts

If you want to get closer to the falls, it can be done on the raft. The journey takes around 10-15 minutes and costs 50,000 VND. You will get the chance to take nice photos from different angles than those on the land plus you will feel the power of the falling water even more.

When to go?

The waterfall can be visited at any time of the year, but depending on the season, it can be more or less impressive. The good point is that it never dries up.

The wet season in the Cao Bang region lasts from June to September and the dry season from October to May. The wet season obviously means more water and more breathtaking views. However, the water gets a dark brown colour and you won’t be able to get too close on the rafts, at least if you plan to stay dry.

I visited at the end of March and Ban Gioc looked wonderful, even though the weather was cloudy and quite cold. The additional benefit was that it wasn’t as busy as it usually gets in high season. I was perfectly satisfied with my visit.

To sum up, don’t be discouraged to visit Ban Gioc in the dry season. It is a magnificent place and you will certainly like it. If you want to see the falls at their best, plan your trip at the end of the rainy season, around August and September.

How to get there?

Most people use Cao Bang as a base for a trip to Bang Gioc, and so did I. From there, you have three options: renting a motorbike, taking a public bus, or arranging a taxi. You may also think of joining an organized tour from Hanoi, which usually covers Ba Be Lake and other interesting sights en route.

Motorbike

It has always been my preferable way of travelling in Asia. There are a few decent rental places such as Green Riders House. Alternatively, you can ask for a bike in your hotel or homestay and certainly, they will help you to arrange one. Motorbike will give you the possibility to visit not only Ban Gioc Waterfall but also other attractions in the region, such as Núi Mắt Thần Mountain.

Bus

The minibus goes directly to the falls and costs 70,000 VND for the two-hour trip. It leaves frequently but I suggest asking about the current schedule at your accommodation.

Taxi

It only makes sense if you travel in a bigger group. Always negotiate with the driver and ask at your accommodation what’s the appropriate price.

Where to stay?

I spent a night at GiaBinh Homestay in Cao Bang and it was easily one of the best homestays during my 5-month Vietnamese road trip. The room was clean, spacious, and nicely decorated. The host immediately made me feel at home and shared some useful tips about my next destination.

If you don’t want to stay in Cao Bang, there are also nice homestays in stone houses in the village not far from Ban Gioc Waterfall.

How long to stay?

Ban Gioc Waterfall and other attractions in that area can be easily discovered during a 1-day trip, especially if you travel on a motorbike. It’s also doable by bus but probably you need to limit the trip to the waterfall and nearby cave only.

Other interesting places in the area

I recommend making use of your day and doing a loop in that area. Start in Cao Bang and follow the road QL3 and then DT206 all the way to Ban Gioc. Then visit Truc Lam Phat Tich Pagoda and the Tiger Cave. After that head back on the road DT206 until Trung Khanh, where you take a turn off to the road DT211 leading towards Nui Mat Than Mountain and Thang Hen Lake. In the end, join back the road DT205 and then QL3 bringing you back to Cao Bang.

The itinerary can be easily done on a motorbike but you need to start early. If you travel by bus, probably you need to limit yourself to Ban Gioc, Truc Lam Phat Tich Pagoda, and the Tiger Cave which are all in the same region.

Truc Lam Phat Tich Pagoda

The temple was built on the top of the mountain opposite the waterfall, from where you can admire the beautiful panoramic view of Ban Gioc. It’s about15 minutes uphill walk.

Tiger Cave / Nguom Ngao Cave

The cave is located about 4km from Ban Gioc Waterfall, so can be easily visited even without a motorbike. It was created by an underground river and was previously used as shelter during the war with China in 1979. Today visitors have two options for the visit: a shorter one which takes about half an hour and costs 45.000 VND and a longer one, which takes about 1,5 hours and costs 195.000 VND. If you choose the longer one, the guide will accompany you and you will be provided with a headlamp, water shoes, and a reflective vest. The cave is wonderfully lit and after visiting the caves in Phong Nha, Tiger Cave or Nguom Ngao Cave was my second favourite in Vietnam.

Tiger Cave around Ban Gioc in Vietnam — Inside the TIger Cave

Nui Mat Than / Angel Eye Mountain

The mountain is truly a hidden paradise. To get there, put Cao Bang Camping in your navigation. The narrow road through the village becomes a dirt road, leading down into an amazing valley. This mountain is also called the Angel Eye mountain, due to the huge hole near its top. There is a small waterfall to the right of the plain and camping is available. Must be an amazing experience, especially with the sky full of stars! In the rainy season, the lake is created in the central area of the valley, probably making it even more photogenic.

Thang Hen Lake

Located right next to Nui Mat Than Mountain. You can take a boat trip or simply sit down and relax by the water’s edge observing nearby mountains that are being reflected in the lake.

Cao Bang

Small and calm city, without major tourist attractions but pleasant to walk around. It’s mostly an overnight stopover for most of the people heading to Ban Gioc Waterfall.

Pho Kim Dong Street is the place where locals hang out in the evenings and where you will find tasty street food. It’s also nice to stroll around the riverside of Song Bang.

In Vietnam March 6, 2023

Hang Tien Cave: exploration with Oxalis Adventure

Phong Nha used to be just another sleepy village on the banks of the Son River in the countryside of Vietnam, but it all changed with the discovery of one of the world’s largest caves. Guesthouses, tour agencies and restaurants popped up feeling an opportunity and they were right. Today this area is considered to be an adventure tourism hotspot.

I had been looking forward to the visit to Phong Nha for quite some time, as I heard a lot of positive reviews claiming it to be one of the most beautiful nature places in Vietnam. As an enthusiast of multiday hiking trips, I was strongly tempted by the wide offer of tours including camping in the jungle or even inside the caves. In the end, I decided to go for it and selected Hang Tien Cave Exploration, one of the tours offered by Oxalis Adventure.

This is not a paid review. I simply decided to write it as I truly enjoyed the experience.

How to get to Phong Nha?

Phong Nha is one of the top tourist areas so it can be easily reached by bus from all the major cities around. There is an airport in Dong Hoi in case you want to save some time and energy when coming from Hanoi. The capital of Vietnam can be also reached by bus or by train but the travel time will be significantly longer (about 12 hours).

If you ride on a motorbike, the best would be to start at Dong Ha (~ 140 km) or Dong Hoi (~ 40 km) when approaching from the south or Vinh (~ 200 km) when coming from the north.

Where to stay before the tour?

I booked 2 nights at Phong Nha Friendly Home and also left my luggage and motorbike there for the duration of the tour. The room was spacious and clean and there was a nice view from the terrace. The only negative point was the hot water in the shower that didn’t last too long so I had to be quick 🙂

The owners are very friendly and breakfast is included in the price (about 400.000 VND per night).

Price and booking

The cost of the Hang Tien Exploration Tour is 9,900,000 VND (426 USD) per person and the tour has a limited annual number of visitors. Yeah, I know. It isn’t cheap. But let’s just think that for each group of 10 tourists, there are 1 tour guide, 2 safety assistants, 1 chef, 2 camp guards, and 4 porters. Oxalis provides all the meals, and camping and safety equipment such as helmets, harnesses, headlights, gloves and a waterproof box for your valuables. The final night is spent at Tu Lan Lodge which is of extremely good quality, much better than the hotels or guesthouses that I usually book. It’s a lifetime experience and I think it is worth the money.

When to go?

The tours are operated from November to September and the best would be to go around April – May. The days are getting warmer and dipping in the water is certainly more fun. I made a trip in late January and it was pretty cold, especially at night or when crossing rivers with icy water. Tours depart on a fixed schedule, on Tuesdays and Saturdays (as of January 2023).

There are no tours from September to October due to the rainy season and increased water levels.

How long to stay in the area?

Besides the amazing trip with Oxalis, it is still worth spending some time for further exploration of the region. It has so much to offer: Phong Nha Cave, Paradise Cave, Duck Stop and Botanic Garden, just to mention a few interesting places!

I spent there two extra days but I could easily imagine an additional one or two in summer when it’s warmer you can do more water activities.

The trip plan

Day 1

The big day has come! I was thinking for a long time about which tour to choose and nearly booked another one (Tu Lan Explorer) but luckily Oxalis consultant advised me to pick Hang Tien Exploration Tour which doesn’t involve too much swimming, which isn’t that nice in January. So, there I was, waiting at my guesthouse for minivan pickup.

They came right on time and about one hour later, we arrived at the Oxalis base camp in the countryside. We were given the equipment (protective helmet, gloves, backpack, bottle with water, and waterproof box for electronics). Then, we met our guide (Dai), who explained all the details of the tour and we had to repack: some things were taken by the porters, and some we carried ourselves. Unfortunately, I chose a backpack that was quite small and only later on I noticed that there were a few bigger ones but they were already taken by other. Well, too bad. Remember to pay attention and choose wisely! As always, my backpack was full to the limits.

We hit the trail walking first through the countryside and saw the daily activities of local people. Many of them were riding bikes with some plants attached to them. Looked quite funny as sometimes you couldn’t really even see the rider, just a motorbike and moving leaves. The road was getting muddier and muddier. In general, the first day was definitely the muddiest of all. We crossed a fast-flowing river with a strong current, some people did it with hiking shoes but it meant that they had to spend the rest of the day with completely wet feet. Luckily, I had my trekking sandals, which were excellent for that purpose so I quickly changed.

Then we continued through muddy terrain to the Secret Cave. The interior was small but really beautiful. Then we had lunch, mostly bread, rice paper and all the ingredients to prepare a sandwich or a spring roll by ourselves. Then we went to Hung Ton Cave which involved going down the steep ladder while wearing a safety harness. It was quite easy, even though it looked scary as I had never used that kind of equipment before. I felt perfectly safe as I was convinced that the guides were experienced and knew what they were doing. Then, as the water level was high and no one was interested in swimming in cold water, we took a short boat ride out of the cave.

From there, we hiked through more and more muddy terrain, but luckily there were barely any leeches. We crossed some more streams, one of them with a pretty strong current and water level up to the waist. I think it was the most dangerous section of the trip. If someone had fallen down, they would have gone with the river flow and for sure got hurt.

Finally, we reached our campsite. Some people took a swim in the river and jumped into the herbal steam bath. I didn’t do so as the water was way too cold for me. Instead, I drank a few cups of delicious ginger tea and warmed myself up next to the fireplace.

We started drying our clothes next to the fireplace, including shoes, which didn’t end up well for me. I left them there for the night and in the morning the right one was seriously burnt.

The dinner was very delicious and it felt really great to eat at the camp in the middle of the jungle. After dinner we were sitting around the fire, having a nice chat and at some point, roasted peanuts were served, which was a nice surprise.

The camp was nicely organized with tents under some kind of roof and on an elevated platform. There was also a thermal steam bath, a bathroom with water in the bucket and a properly-looking toilet.

In the end, everyone went to sleep quite early. The night was quiet and I slept well even though I was a bit cold. Everyone was given two sleeping bags but they were extremely thin, so it was necessary to use extra layers of clothes.

Day 2

We woke up at about 8 AM, got breakfast and then had some time to pack the things and get ready. On that day, the trail was supposed to be less muddy and without many river crossings. The total distance to go was about 8 km with roughly 350m of ascent. Unfortunately, I noticed that one of my shoes got burnt while lying too close to the fireplace. What can I say, I am a jungle genius.

I set off in my Keen sandals as there were small river crossings at the very beginning of the hike and I preferred to have dry feet. I was glad to see that the trail was indeed less muddy than the day before. There were no caves en route today, just pure jungle. We had our first picnic at the beautiful spot at the lake. The meal was really delicious. Rice with papaya and some other veggies, peanuts and sauce. The weather was also much better than the day before, with the occasional sunny period but still cold, especially while resting. Luckily, there were still no leeches as well as no mosquitos.

After the lunch break, we had to cross the small lake walking on the fallen tree and the over the wooden mini-bridge but it was submerging under the weight of the person walking on it, so I again decided to change shoes to sandals and keep sports shoes dry.

Then we walked and walked until we reached our second campsite set in an amazingly scenic location at the riverbank. There was a kind of small beach and Oxalis guys even organized a stand-up paddleboard. This time I decided to take a short dip in the water but it was really so goddamn cold. Immediately after, I jumped inside the herbal steam bath. It was really cool experience.

The evening was pleasant. I learned how to play a Vietnamese card game and we had delicious dinner again, followed by chitchat at the fireplace. The chef also prepared some hot sweet potatoes and corn. Awesome. The sky was clear so we could admire hundreds of stars.

There was another Oxalis camp for a different tour, on the other side of the lake, but we couldn’t hear them at all.

Day 3

The third day of the trip was the most exciting one as we visited the two biggest caves: Hang Tien 1 and Hang Tien 2. The morning on the campsite was cold but there was nice scenery with a morning mist over the river. Breakfast was delicious too, with nice banana pancakes and chocolate sauce.

We were also asked to decide if we want to take the longer route through the jungle which includes going up the mountains or rather a shortcut and coming back the same way through Hang Tien 1. We voted for the longer hike, which was also my preference.

It was a short trek to the entrance of Hang Tien 1, where we made a stop for a photo session. Then we went inside and it was really, really nice. Very big cave, exciting to walk through with some climbing and narrow passages but allowing to keep the feet dry. Inside, we could see calcite terraces and the circular ceiling dome. Further in we were given a safety harness and instructed to climb a 10 m ladder to reach the cave exit, opening out to a lush forest.

From there we continued to Hang Tien 2, which was smaller but probably even more beautiful inside with crystal-like rock formations. We could leave our backpacks at the entrance because it was a one-way cave with the exit the same way. We took some cool group photos here, with shadows reflected on the rocks and also individual ones while standing between stalagmites and stalactites. The guides were equipped with special lights, which made the photos look really professional.

After leaving the cave, we had a nice lunch and then continued the hike through the jungle. The weather was perfect and the hike was really pleasant, even though it was quite steep at some points. We rested for a while at the top and then started descent until we reached the road, where the minibus was already waiting for us.

It took about 1 hour to reach the Oxalis office and Tu Lan Lodge. We received keys to the rooms and had some time for taking a shower or riding a bike before going for dinner. The room was so amazing! Big panoramic window with a view of all the area and the mountains, even from the bathroom! Definitely the best room during my Vietnamese trip. But well, it wasn’t cheap 🙂 I did a short bike ride around the village but was definitely planning to wake up early the next day and explore some more.

The dinner at the house of the local guide was delicious. A real feast with plenty of dishes but everyone was quite hungry! We also had some happy water (a local alcoholic beverage), obviously for better digestion 🙂

Day 4

The last day shouldn’t really be counted as an active one unless you grab a bike and go explore the village. That was exactly what I did! We had free time until 12:00 and the area is way too beautiful to just sit on the terrace. Bikes are available for free for anyone staying at Tu Lan Lodge.

It’s a real rural area with extremely friendly people always greeting you and smiling. Lots of great photo opportunities too, especially of people working in the ricefields.

Finally, it was time to set off back to Phong Nha and say goodbye to the group. What an amazing 4 days it was!

Other tours

Hang Tien Exploration is not the only tour in Oxalis Adventure offer. They have both longer and shorter hikes so simply visit their website and find the one that fits you best. It isn’t a sponsored recommendation as I truly liked my days in the Phong Nha area 🙂

Summary

All in all, it was an excellent trip. Logistics, guides, food, accommodation as well as communication with the consultant prior to the trip – everything was on a high level. It’s definitely not a cheap tour, but on the other hand, it’s an experience that you don’t have the chance to get very often. I wholeheartedly recommend Oxalis Adventure for all nature enthusiasts visiting Phong Nha.

In Thailand January 8, 2023

Khao Sok: an adventure in the rainforest

It’s a popular tourist destination as it’s conveniently located between Phuket and Koh Samui or Koh Phangan. The main attractions of Khao Sok are Cheow Lan Lake, wildlife, iconic limestone hills, waterfalls, raft houses spread over the lake, trails, caves and rivers. It’s a real paradise for nature lovers and be sure that some time here will stay in your memories forever.

The park covers 739 square kilometres and was officially established on the 22nd of December 1980. Luckily, in the 1970s, Thai students, who had joined communist insurgency groups, set up a stronghold in Khao Sok, as it provided ideal conditions to hide and operate guerilla warfare. They managed to keep at a distance not only the Thai Army but also loggers, miners and hunters. Who knows what the rainforest would look like now if not for coincidences like this one?

In 1982 Rajjaprabha Dam was built, closing off the Pasaeng river and creating 165 km² of the Cheow Larn Lake. This dam was built to provide a source of electricity to southern Thailand, which by now had become a major tourist destination.

How to get to Khao Sok?

It’s a popular place so arranging transportation from other spots in Thailand will be rather easy. The most convenient way is to start the trip from Krabi, Phuket, Khao Lak or Surat Thani with a minivan. Just ask the travel agent or the receptionist at your hotel and I’m sure they will guide you through the options.

I started from Krabi but in this section of my travel, I had a rental car for about two weeks, so it was really easy to get around. I took a white Toyota Yaris ATIV from PURE Krabi Car Rental and it was easily the best and the most worry-free rental experience that I have ever had. Easy contact through Whatsapp with the owner, no deposit needed, the low maximum liability of 5,000 THB and there was even a free WiFi device on board. Perfect!

Khao Sok National Park, Thailand — Surrounded by limestone mountains

When to go?

It’s a humid jungle environment with high temperatures and heavy rains year-round. The rain intensifies during the months of June through November but it shouldn’t discourage you from visiting this beautiful place. Just be prepared to get wet at any time of the year. Tropical downpours can be strong but usually, they don’t last for long. After all, it’s a rainforest!

If you really hate rain, February is the driest month on average with 30mm of rainfall, so plan your trip at this time.

How long to stay?

At least 3 days should be counted to fully enjoy the visit to Khao Sok. I spent 2 days on the trip to Cheow Larn Lake and 1 additional day hanging around the village and enjoying a guided night jungle walk. Anything shorter would have felt rushed.

Where to stay?

I booked a room at Khao Sok Jungle Huts Resort which was an excellent choice. Free parking, mosquito net, great restaurant and unbelievably friendly host. I arranged all my trips here. The place is very green with easy access to the river and you can occasionally spot some monkeys.

What to take with you?

You won’t need much, but make sure these items find a place in your bag:

Rain jacket
Sports shoes or trekking sandals that can get wet (for the cave tour)
Long trousers and long socks
Swimsuit
Insect repellant with DEET (there will be leeches)
Sunglasses
Hat

National Park fees and opening hours

According to the official website, as of June 2022, the entrance fees for foreigners are 200 THB for adults and 100 THB for children 3-14 years old. Thai citizens pay 40 Baht for adults and 20 Baht for children. The entrance fees are valid for multiple days only if staying inside the park, either when camping or staying at raft houses on the lake. In other cases, you will have to buy a new ticket every day, which I find a bit ridiculous. After coming back from the tour of raft houses, I still wanted to do the guided night walk and I had to pay again for the new entrance ticket.

Luckily, it seems that the prices went down because when I was visiting in March 2022, the entrance ticket was 300 THB.

The park is open from 6 AM to 6 PM daily, all year round. Entering after 6 PM is possible if you do a night walk with a guide.

What to do in Khao Sok?

The park can be split into two popular areas, which are 67 km apart. The first one is around the national park headquarters and Khao Sok Village, where it is possible to hike a number of trails, join guided night walks, visit waterfalls or take part in activities on the river. The second one is around Cheow Lan Lake and is popular for boat trips, raft houses, caves and limestone mountains.

Overnight trip to Cheow Lan Lake

I booked a 2D 1N trip at my hotel one day in advance. The cost should be around 2,500 THB but ask if the entrance ticket to the national park is included.

The minibus picked me and some other guests up and we were taken to Cheow Lan Lake Pier where we bought national park tickets and boarded a long tail boat. The ride on the lake was extremely fun. Interestingly, the lake was created in 1982 as part of a damming project to provide hydroelectricity to the south of Thailand. It stretches over an area of 165 km². We were surrounded by limestone hills and it all felt like going deeper into some unknown Jurrasic Park.

There are many raft houses spread all over the lake, from which it is possible to visit caves, viewpoints, limestone hills and get to some exciting trails. The one I stayed at was called the Smiley Lakehouse. Very pleasant place with simple rooms and private bathrooms. As I was travelling alone, I was asked to share a room with another solo traveller. Of course, I agreed and ended up with a new friend from Germany.

We had a bit over one hour to chill out, swim in the lake or use one of many available kayaks. I decided to paddle around a bit but it was really tough in that sunny weather!

Then, it was time to return to the boat and head to Nam Thalu Cave. For me, it was the most adventurous part of visiting Khao Sok National Park. Once inside the cave, you wade or maybe even have to swim through the water. Keep all your valuables in a waterproof bag or ask your guide to store them for you. Due to the weather forecast for the afternoon which included rain, we were a bit hurried. Apparently, it may be extremely dangerous if you get caught inside the cave in heavy rain as the water level rises very fast.

We saw plenty of bats and spiders that can be recognized by their eyes reflecting the light. There could be also some snakes around but we didn’t see any. It is definitely not a place to go with small kids and you should wear proper shoes, not flip-flops.

As soon as we exited the cave, the heavy rain started so we were really just in time! It was raining the whole way back to the boat. Rain in the jungle means one thing. Be careful of leeches! A few people in our group were affected so it’s best to stop from time to time and check your body and the body of your buddy. They can move really fast so pay attention to the area around your ankles but also under your armpits.

We went back to the raft house where we had time to relax while waiting for dinner. It was really amazing to see when the rain stopped and clouds were rolling over the massive limestone hills.

The night was calm and in the early morning, we boarded the boat again, this time looking for wildlife. We saw a lot of monkeys and some hornbills, but unfortunately no elephants.

After breakfast, it was time to pack the bags and go back to the pier, with two more stops on the way: Khao Sam Kloe, which is a group of 3 beautiful rocks, and Pra Kie Phet Cave, a small and this time without water but with bats and some huge spiders which scared the shit out of me, even though they are harmless for humans.

In the end, the minibus transported us back to Khao Sok Village with a short lunch stop at Ratchaprapha Dam Scenic Viewpoint. All in all, it was a wonderful trip, absolutely worth the price. I highly recommend spending the night at the lake instead of doing only a day trip. It will add so much more to the experience!

You can also arrange your trip independently, by arriving at Cheow Lan Lake Pier and getting a boat from there to the floating house that you booked before or simply arranging the boat trip for a few hours. However, to see all the other attractions around, I believe it’s better to go for an organized trip with a guide, which includes an overnight stay in a raft house.

Night jungle walk

It’s actually a really fun experience, even though you don’t go deep in the jungle but rather follow the dirt road, around the park’s headquarters. We saw some frogs, snakes, spiders, and lizards as well as stick insects.

Rafflesia flower hike

Rafflesia is a parasitic plant with no leaves or roots on its own. It invades the liana vines and like a parasite, it absorbs all the vine’s nutrients. Once a year small buds begin to develop beneath the root bark of the vine. As they mature, they swell, breaking through the bark. They then burst open revealing the massive flower, which can be up to 80 cm! I haven’t done this hike but it’s definitely on my list, even in other places in South East Asia!

Ton Kloi Waterfall

One of the hikes that starts at the national park headquarters. It is 7 km long and runs along the Sok River. The first 2.9 km of the trail, until a checkpoint guarded by rangers, doesn’t require any guide to walk. However, if you want to continue all the way to the end, the guide is obligatory. There are many other, smaller waterfalls along that trail.

Sip Et Chan Falls

This 11-tiered waterfall is accessible by a nearly 4 km long trail starting from the north side of the campground next to the park’s headquarters. You can walk the first 400-50 meters on a wooden boardwalk freely, but a guide is required for the remaining distance.

Mae Yai Waterfall

It’s outside of the national park and you can just see it from the road while driving from Khao Lak. Otherwise, I wouldn’t say that it’s worth a dedicated trip.

Khao Sok Elephant Sanctuary

It’s one of the sanctuaries with really good comments from visitors. You may be able to make food for the elephants, feed and walk with them, but riding or bathing is absolutely forbidden.

River tubing or bamboo rafting

Both activities are especially fun in wet months when the water level in the river is high. It’s best to arrange it directly at your hotel or at street agencies.

Off the beaten trail – Khlong Phanom National Park

Rarely visited park, with a very nice loop hiking trail which should take you under 2 hours. You have a couple of viewpoints along the way until you finally arrive at the big tree. The entrance fee is quite cheap at 100 THB.

Summary

It was a magical time in nature and if you are looking for something else than Thai islands, look no further. There are plenty of activities to do both for very active people and also for those lazier ones. Spend the night in a raft house, waking up early to admire the morning mist and listen to the sounds of the jungle. This is one of these experiences that you will remember for a lifetime. I am a big nature enthusiast and I had 3 days of an absolute blast.

In Thailand September 12, 2022

Ko Tarutao: more than a quick stopover en route to Ko Lipe

Koh Tarutao is the largest island in the Tarutao National Park. The island is 11 kilometres wide, and 26 kilometres long and the highest point on the island is 700 meters high. The headquarters and visitor centre are located near the beach of Punte Malacca. Kayaks and bicycles can be rented there and a small shop offers snacks and drinks.

The island has an interesting, but dark history. In the late 1930s, political prisoners had been kept there with the total number reaching even 3.000 people in 1938. When The Second World War broke out, the supplies from the mainland to the island were cut off causing food shortages and the death of many prisoners. The guards and prisoners formed alliances in order to survive and started attacking ships passing by around the island. Around 130 ships were sunk before the British forces came to the rescue towards the end of the war. Until the prison was shut down, nearly a third of prisoners lost their lives due to cruelty from guards, starvation and malaria.

How to get to Ko Tarutao?

As of April 2022, the only option seemed to be taking a speedboat from Pakbara Pier which heads to Koh Lipe but stops on Tarutao Island for about half an hour to allow the passengers to have a short walk and take pictures on the beach. On the next day, you could continue your journey further and jump onto another speedboat heading to Ko Lipe.

Getting to Tarutao on the way back from Koh Lipe may be difficult as tour operators usually don’t make a stop there and go directly to Pakbara Pier. If you travel with a bigger group, it could be negotiable but otherwise, don’t consider that option.

The National Park entrance fee is payable at the ferry terminal, costs 200 THB for foreigners and is valid for 5 days.

When to go?

The island is open for tourists from October to May. From June to September, the visit is impossible and you will have to go directly to the more popular Koh Lipe instead.

How long to stay?

It’s a small island but using a bicycle rather than a motorbike (not available for rent) makes it way slower and more tiring to explore. 1 full day should be enough to see the highlights on your two wheels and enjoy beach time. If you want to visit Crocodile Cave, you need to count in some extra hours and either rent a kayak or ask around for a long-tail boat.

Where to stay?

National Park accommodations or tents are the only options on the island. I got a bungalow at Ao Phante Beach, close to the visitor centre and the restaurant. The room was quite big and had a private bathroom but there wasn’t a mosquito net which presence I always appreciate. It cost me 600 THB per night. I also saw some bungalows at Ao Molae Beach, where the group of monks was hanging out, and at Ao Son Beach, which looked completely empty.

You can rent a tent or bring your own and camp at all three locations mentioned above. For sure there is a restaurant near the visitor centre and another one near Molae Beach, but I’m not sure about Ao Son Beach.

Getting around the island

Options are limited to walking or renting a bicycle. Tourists are not allowed to rent or drive motorbikes on the island, only park rangers can do so. Bicycle rental costs 250 THB per day. Check the breaks as there are a lot of hills on the island, but it seems that the bikes are in general in good condition.

In high season, there should be also available old-fashioned leg wagons and shuttle taxis that drive around the island at fixed times, though I didn’t see any during my stay on the island.

Rental bicycle and narrow paths around the site of the former prison

Tips

Always consult with rangers about your travel plan, especially your boat schedule or possible hikes.
Take enough cash as there is no ATM on the island.
Pack good insect repellent. There will be mosquitos and most probably sandflies as well. I was really badly bitten all over my legs and it was itching for several days.

Interesting places

Crocodile Cave

The name comes from a population of saltwater crocodiles that once lived on Koh Tarutao. But don’t worry, it’s history and now they are extinct. The cave can be reached by a longtail boat (the price should be around 450 THB) or by kayak (500 THB for the whole day) and you will go through a very scenic mangrove canal. As always in the caves in Thailand, it’s good to have your own flashlight to see as much as possible.

Ao Talo Wao

The most iconic sight on the island with the pier leading to a huge limestone rock. You can also notice a few smaller islands in the background. A good paved road with monkeys chilling on the side leads there all the way from the visitor centre, though it’s a bit hilly so take your time and don’t forget water. The distance is about 12 kilometres. There is also a ranger building displaying boards with information about the island.

A bit further are remains of historic buildings that once belonged to the prison. The trails around the site are narrower but still doable on bicycle. If you are lucky, you may see a wild boar.

Ao Taloh Udang

If you continue from Ao Talo Wao and the remains of the old prison even more towards the south, you are going to the place where political prisoners were kept. Unfortunately, the road isn’t paved and cannot be done on a bicycle. If you are adventurous, you can hike there but for me, it looked way too overgrown.

Mo Lae Bay

Calm beach close to a very nice bungalow complex, located four kilometres south of the headquarters. When I was passing by, there was a big group of monks. It was nice to see them chilling like that wearing their orange robes 🙂 There is a restaurant with tasty and affordable food too.

Ao Son Beach

Very long and beautiful beach, yet completely empty. It’s located another 4 kilometres away from Mo Lae Bay.

Lu Du Waterfall

A signposted track 300m inland from Ao Son Beach leads to this waterfall. It’s about 3 kilometres and 1.5 hours each way.

Toe Bu Cliffs

The hike takes about 20 minutes and starts just behind the National Park’s headquarters. There is a great view over Ao Pante beach and other islands.

In Hiking March 15, 2020

10 Great Walks of New Zealand

There are endless hiking possibilities in New Zealand and if you nature enthusiast, that’s the perfect country for you. I prefer camping, however, with the network of more than 950 backcountry huts operated by the Department of Conservation (DOC), carrying your own tent all the way is not always needed.

10 tracks with the status of the Great Walk are multiday adventures located in the most scenic landscapes in the country and providing hikers with good facilities. My story with them is rather simple. I went for one (Tongariro Northern Circuit) and I knew that I want to complete all of them.

North Island

Tongariro Northern Circuit

Distance: 41 km

Time: 2-4 days

Definitely my favorite walk on the North Island. It was also my first Great Walk after arrival to New Zealand so I’m still sentimental about it. Being a loop, there is no hassle with extra transportation so it’s also budget-friendly.

I was extremely lucky with the weather and even though I initially planned the hike for 3 days, I finished it in 2 days which is perfectly doable but tiring. Do it in 3 days or 4 days if you like a more relaxed pace.

The track meanders through the rugged volcanic landscape with cones of Mt Tongariro, Mt Ruapehu and Mt Ngauruhoe around you. It includes most of Tongariro Crossing which is a day hike done by most of the tourists coming to Tongariro National Park and this section can get crowded.

Don’t miss Blue Lake, Tama Lakes and Taranaki Falls as side trips. They are all worth it!

Tongariro National Park, New Zealand — Tongariro National Park

Read the full description of the track.

Lake Waikaremoana Track

Distance: 46 km

Time: 2-3 days

The track follows the shoreline of Lake Waikaremoana and if fairly easy except quite a steep uphill section between Onepoto and Panekire Hut (if walking from Onepoto) or Waiopaoa Hut and Panekire Hut (if walking from Hopuruahine Landing). Rainforest, waterfalls, beaches – you have it all here. Just don’t forget your swimwear!

I started the track at Onepoto and in this way covered the more difficult uphill section on the first day.

Whanganui Journey

Distance: 87 or 145 km

Time: 3-5 days

First of all, it’s not a walk. Unless you can walk on the water. If not, then grab a kayak or canoe, pack your things into waterproof containers and paddle your way down the Whanganui River.

The full version is 145 km long, starts at Taumarunui and finished in Pipiriki (5 days). If you are not such a big enthusiast of paddling, start at Whakahoro instead and cut the distance to 87 km (3 days).

It’s worth stopping at the Bridge to Nowhere, that was built in the times when soldiers coming back from World War I were granted land in the area. The land proved too difficult to cultivate and after building the bridge in the middle of the bush, the plans to continue with the road were abandoned. Therefore, today it’s quite a unique tourist attraction in the beautiful scenery.

Whanganui National Park, New Zealand — Whanganui National Park

South Island

Abel Tasman Coastal Track

Distance: 60 km

Time: 3-5 days

The trail goes along the coast and many hikers rate it as one of the easiest of Great Walks. There are several great campsites on the way where you can pitch your tent on the sand and even enjoy the shower. Jumping in the kayak and doing the whole route or only some fragments from the water perspective is a nice and popular alternative. It’s not a loop so at the end of the track, take a water taxi back to the starting point or if you have a couple of more days to spare, walk back via alternative inland track.

I did it over 3 days starting at Marahau and it seems to be an absolute minimum if you want to cover the whole distance. I camped at Onetahuti Bay and Totaranui. For more relaxed experience and longer breaks at the spectacular bays and beaches, plan 4 or 5 days.

There is one really critical tidal crossing at Aweroa that is passable 1.5 hours before and 2 hours after low tide under normal conditional. Therefore, plan your day accordingly and check tides hours online as there is no alternative way. For me, it was one of the most unique and breathtaking spots on the trail. Oystercatchers wandering around looking for food, a huge area with sand shaped by the water, hilly background and adventurous crossing on its own, sometimes with water above my knees.

Heaphy Track

Distance: 78.4 km

Time: 3-6 days

The longest and one of the most diverse of Great Walks. Being located in Kahurangi National Park, it takes not only good shape to tackle it, but you need extra cash to organize logistics. To come back from one trailhead to another, it’s a long bus trip that takes around 5 hours and costs over 100 NZD.

I hiked the track in 3 days. The first one was a mostly uphill walk in the mountainous area and forest. The second day was way flatter and the forest gave place to wide grasslands at the end arriving at the West Coast. On the last day, walking along the beach I got the chance to admire one of the most remote coasts that I have ever seen.

I spent the nights at Saxon and Heaphy campsites and both had superb location.

Outside of the Great Walks season (1 May – 30 November), it’s allowed to go on the track with a mountain bike.

Paparoa Track

Distance: 55 km

Time: 2-3 days

The only Great Walk that I didn’t experience but that’s because it’s a brand new one due to open in the second half of 2020. When I see its location on the West Coast, I have no doubts it’s on my bucket list for the second visit in New Zealand.

The track crosses the rainforest and the Paparoa Range. According to the Department of Conversation (DOC), mountain bikers are allowed as well.

Routeburn Track

Distance: 32 km

Time: 2-3 days

My favorite of 3 Great Walks in Fiordland National Park. It’s short but breathtaking and there are no boring sections. The weather on my first day was simply horrible with pouring rain and strong winds all the way. But if everything is booked…. gotta go 🙂 Luckily, it had a positive side too, as the passing dark clouds were extremely photogenic.

I spent the night at Lake MacKenzie campsite trying to dry my completely wet clothes at least a little bit. Of course, I failed.

The second day was much better and the sun welcomed me as soon as I opened the tent. After a full day of rain, the Earland Falls were so huge that I had to take a detour built for such situations.

It’s a great track for mountain enthusiasts. I recommend making a side trip to Key Summit which takes around 1.5-hour return. Leave your heavy backpack at the crossroad, there is no need to carry the things all the way up.

[update from DOC website as of 15.03.2020 – check regularly for further news]

The Routeburn Track partially reopens from 12 March 2020 as a new walking experience, named Routeburn Return. It’s a 4-day, 3-night hike beginning and ending at the Routeburn Shelter. This return journey starts and finishes near Glenorchy.

Routeburn Return replaces the Routeburn Great Walk, which is closed for the rest of the season due to storm damage.

The Routeburn Return route may be more challenging than the usual route because of changes in elevation and one of the days is longer than a usual Great Walks experience.

Kepler Track

Distance: 60 km

Time: 2-4 days

Being a circuit makes it easily accessible and budget-friendly. I did it over 2 days in a clockwise direction with overnight at Iris Burn but I must say it was pretty challenging and I finished completely exhausted.

The weather conditions in Fiordland National Park are pretty unpredictable which I experienced on the second day. The thin layer of snow was covering the ground and people coming from the other direction said that yesterday they were walking in a snowstorm. I was really lucky that DOC advised me to follow the clockwise direction!

There are limestone caves near the Luxmore Hut that make for a nice side trip. Take a torch!

Milford Track

Distance: 53.5 km

Time: 4 days

Only 40 independent hikers can start the track each day which makes it extremely difficult to book. I did it 4 months in advance, refreshing the page several days hoping for someone to cancel. I got lucky, but it’s also easier for solo travelers.

This time I left the tent in the car as camping on Milford Track is not allowed. Even though it’s only 53.5 km long, you need to stay in all 3 huts on the way. It has pros and cons. I could easily walk such a distance in 3 or even in 2 days. On the other hand, I was ‘forced’ to take it slowly having more time to appreciate nature. Which was just fine. However, the popularity of the track, lack of campsites and additional transport from one end to another, demand quite a big budget as for the hike in the mountains.

And even though it’s my least favorite of Great Walks in Fiordland National Park, there is still a lot to appreciate. Spectacular views from MacKinnon Pass, the highest waterfall in New Zealand – Sutherland Falls (580m) and of course plenty of wildlife.

Rakiura / Stewart Island

Rakiura Track

Rakiura National Park covers around 80% of the island and is home to the least crowded of Great Walks. I booked my camping tickets only 2 days before departure which would rather not be possible on other tracks in the middle of the season.

You will hike along sandy beaches and through the forest but the most interesting part is the chance to see the kiwi. It’s the best place in the whole of New Zealand to see its symbolic bird. Apparently it’s possible even in the daylight! I suggest waking up around midnight, taking headlight (best with the red light mode that doesn’t scare kiwi off) and walking quietly around the camp.

Read the full description of the track.

In Australia March 11, 2020

Palm Valley and Hermannsburg

Hermannsburg

This Aboriginal community is on the way to Palm Valley, therefore its historic precinct is very often visited by organized groups on day tours. It was established in the 1880s as a Lutheran mission by German pastors, hence its name. They constructed characteristical buildings including a church, school and several houses. Today, you can enjoy your time in a tea shop, museum and the Namatjira Gallery.

Albert Namatjira is a world-famous Aboriginal watercolor artist born in Hermannsburg. Due to his art, he gained an appreciation and became the first Aboriginal person to get restricted Australian citizenship allowing him to vote, buy alcohol and claim land rights. In 1953 Namatjira was awarded the Queen’s Coronation Medal and in 1968 he was honored on an Australian postage stamp.

You can admire his works in many museums all around Australia and don’t forget to check the ones in the museum in Hermannsburg Historic Precinct.

Palm Valley

Palm Valley lies within Finke Gorge National Park that covers an area of around 46.000 hectares in Central Australia. Why is it so special? Because it’s like an oasis filled with around 12.000 Red Cabbage Palms after which the valley is named. There is no other place like that in the region and the nearest specimens are 850 km away in Queensland.

Why are there palms on the desert?

One of the very first versions claimed that palms are survivors from prehistoric times when the climate in this region was far more tropical. However, recent studies proved that the same species of palms grow around 1000 north around Mataranka and Katherine. It is believed that the seeds were transported from one place to another by migrating people 15.000 – 30.000 years ago. Why did they move? That remains uncertain and we can only speculate: the rise of sea levels, bushfires, etc.

The theory would, in fact, go in line with Aboriginal legend telling about palm seed brought by the ‘gods form the north’. Is it really possible that the legend survives more than 15.000 years? I don’t know but I like to believe it is. It only adds magical feeling to this already extraordinary place.

Northern Territory, Australia — The landscape around Palm Valley

While Red Cabbage Palms are the main actors in this theatre, there are about 684 species of plants living in Finke Gorge National Park, 30 of them being rare and 16 that can be found only here.

How to get there?

You would need 4WD and I mean it. In many parts of Australia, I managed to access remote attractions with 2WD, just taking it easy and driving on corrugated dirt with care. But here, it certainly wouldn’t be possible. You will drive on a sandy bad of Finke River after all!

Therefore, without high clearance 4WD, I would suggest going for an organized tour as I did. It was a totally hassle-free experience in a 4WD truck and commentary provided by our guide Bluey from Emu Run Experience was probably the biggest advantage! Daily tours depart from Alice Springs and from there it takes around 2 hours to get to the national park. Besides Finke River National Park, they usually stop at Hermannsburg as well.

On the way back we saw 4WD Toyota Hilux in trouble when the driver went too fast and broke suspension which in the result made a puncture in the fuel tank. The fuel leaked out completely in just a few seconds and that was the end of the trip for unlucky ones. Other tourists gave them a lift to Alice Springs where they had to find a mechanic and spare parts and then come back to Palm Valley to fix the car onsite. Difficult Aussie life!

Overnight

If you travel independently you may want to set your camp at the dedicated spot and spend a night in this remote area. It must be an amazing experience and I would certainly do so next time. There are showers, toilets and barbecues provided. Don’t forget to take some cash to pay onsite.

Walks in the area

Arankaia Walk (2 km, 1-hour return) – located in Palm Valley itself it gives you the best opportunity to admire these spectacular plants.

Mpulungkinya Walk (5km, 2-hours return) – the longer version of Arankaia Walk.

Kalarranga Lookout (1.5 km, 45 min return) – easy ascent to the top where I was rewarded by the panoramic view of the national park and surrounding amphitheater of rocks. It’s a breathtaking spot for sunset, so if you camp overnight, get here on time!

Mpaara Walk (5 km, 2 hours return) – it’s a nice walk but also cultural experience describing the mythology of Western Aranda Aboriginal people. The start is at Kalarranga parking.

A few things to remember

Please don’t ignore the guidance provided by Finke River National Park:

Camping is only permitted in the designated camping areas at Palm Valley and along the Finke River at Boggy Hole.
Collect firewood before entering the park.
At Palm Valley, fires are only permitted in designated fire pits.
Pets are not permitted in the National Park.
Rubbish bins are not provided, so take your rubbish with you.
If traveling the Finke River 4WD route, stay on the marked track.
Be careful where you walk and stay on the marked tracks. Young palms can be destroyed by visitors not realizing what they are walking on. The regeneration of the palms is needed for the survival of this population.

Enjoy this beautiful place!

In Advices March 3, 2020

NZ Great Walks: Packing list

Hiking 1 of 10 New Zealand’s Great walks will bring you close to the best thing this country has to offer. Its nature. But be warned! It’s addictive and most likely the first of your Great Walks won’t be the last. Many people get pulled in by the idea and complete them all. So did I.

It’s a perfect opportunity for beginners in multi-day hiking to test their limits. You will be away for 2-4 days having a glimpse on backcountry experience but you don’t need any hardcore survival skills. Breath-taking scenery will reward even the worst weather. And when you can be alone on a track for quite some, you will certainly meet great people on campsites and in huts.

Before you go, make sure you are well prepared and packed all the essentials!

The art of packing

Packing for long-distance hikes can be a pain, especially for beginners. In the end, we consider many items as essentials that may be useful on the way. But once it’s all packed, we quickly realize the backpack is way too heavy. Believe me, the weight of each extra item on your back will matter when you ascend another hill.

It’s hard to avoid first-timer mistakes and I did learn some lessons on my own skin as well. To be honest, with every next hike, I’m taking less and fewer things. Consider my packing list for New Zealand’s Great Walks but also observe and learn from your own experience.

The list describes the suggested equipment for Great Walks in the summer season. Needless to say, equipment is necessary for harsh winter conditions.

Food

There is nothing that you can buy on the track, therefore whatever you take you with, it needs to last for the entire duration of the hike. To be on the safe side, it’s even recommended to take a supply for an extra day, in case of an unexpected injury or difficult weather conditions.

After a long day of the walk, you want to set up your tent and eat something warm as soon as possible. Prepare high-energy value meal that you can easily heat up. Freeze-dried food is a good idea as it just requires boiling the water, but it’s expensive.

For the first hikes, I used the food produced by Backcountry Cousine. The selection is really big and the meals are tasty but to be honest, I had to buy the bigger pack with a portion for 2 people to be really full. A meal costs around 10-15 NZD.

Whatever you take, the rule is simple. Eat the heaviest stuff first and keep the lightweight meals for last days.

Breakfast:

Bread with jam, honey or peanut butter
Instant cereal with fruits or porridge
Biscuits with jam
Powdered milk
Banana
Tea or coffee

Lunch:

Bread
Cheese
Salami
Humous
Ready to eat sausages
Instant soup
Nuts and dried fruits
Tea or coffee

Dinner:

Instant rice or pasta
Tinned tuna or chicken
Instant soup
Freeze-dried meal
Tea or coffee

Snacks:

Chocolate
Muesli bars
Biscuits
Nuts
Frooze Balls

Equipment

Only if you camp:

Tent
I’m using MSR Elixir 2-Person Lightweight Backpacking Tent. It’s made for 2 people but light construction should satisfy solo travellers as well. It did satisfy me and extra space was awesome!
Sleeping mat
I’m using Sea to Summit Comfort Light Insulated. It’s a 3 season sleeping mat with R-Value 4.2 warmth.

For campsites and huts:

Backpack with a waterproof cover
40-60L should be enough for a multiday hike.
Waterproof bag
Used as extra protection inside your backpack to put electronics and spare clothes inside.
Sleeping bag
It can get cold no matter what time of the year so 3-4 seasons sleeping bag would be perfect. In mid of February, the temperature on Kepler Track dropped to 2C in the night so I was happy my sleeping bag comfort rating was 0C. It’s much warmer if you sleep in a hut, though you still need a sleeping bag as there are only bunk beds with mattresses.
Drinking bottle 1-1.5 L
Water is always available next to the huts and campsites. It’s rainwater, fine for drinking without treatment. If you have doubts, boil it first or use the Sawyer water filter.
Cooking pot
I’m using MSR PocketRocket 2 Mini Stove Kit which proved to be great size and quality.
Gas stove
Sometimes provided in huts, check in advance.
Fuel
Sometimes provided in huts, check in advance.
Plastic cutlery
Cup
Sharp survival knife
Cleaning set
Matches / lighter
Light camera or phone with a camera
Power bank / spare camera battery
Bin bags
Whatever you bring in to the national park, you have to bring it out and throw away when you reach civilization.
Hut/campsite tickets
These have to be picked up at DOC visitor centre before you depart.
Map
Can be found at DOC visitor centre as well.
Earplugs
Useful especially in bunkrooms in huts.

Clothing

It rains quite often in New Zealand, therefore you need to be prepared for changing weather conditions. Not to mention the fact that in February I experienced snow on Kepler Track. Warms and waterproof clothes are essential to increase your comfort on the trail.

Boots that are comfortable and well broken in
Shoes are the most important element of your clothing, especially when hiking in the mountains with a heavy backpack. Your comfort and safety depend on them. Make sure that they are top-class shoes that you trust. For all Great Walks, I used La Sportiva TX5. Even though it took quite a while to break them in, they are extremely light, comfortable and provide great stabilization for my feet.
Raincoat with hood
Trousers
Waterproof over trousers
Jumper or sweater
For cold mornings and evening or even for sleeping in case your sleeping bag is not warm enough.
T-shirt (at least 2)
Long sleeve shirt
Pair of thermals
Shorts
Buff
It’s light and can be worn on the head, neck or wrist.
Flip flops / lightweight shoes for a campsite
You will want to let your feet rest from heavy boots and feel more comfortable while hanging around campsite or hut.
Hiking socks
I recommend taking an extra pair. Nothing is worse than wet feet.
Underwear
Hat
Gloves
Rather for mountain tracks only.
Swimwear
May be useful especially on Abel Tasman Track or Rakiura Track.
Extra clothes for sleeping
Sunglasses

Toiletries

Toothpaste
Toothbrush
Wet tissues
Toilet paper
Hand sanitizer
Soap
There are usually sinks with rainwater next to the huts so you can use them for basic needs.
Small quick-dry towel
May be useful especially on Abel Tasman Track or Rakiura Track.

Safety

Flashlight (headlight is the best)
Spare batteries
First aid incl. antiseptic, pain killers, bandages, blisters kit, personal meds
Insect repellent
Sunscreen
Spare matches / lighter in a waterproof container
Spare set of warm clothes
Whistle
Personal documents (ID, passport) in a waterproof bag

I wouldn’t say that personal locator beacon is really needed on Great Walks. The trail is well marked and it would be difficult to get lost. Before you go, just tell someone about your plans and how long you plan to be on a trail.

Do you have your favourite items that you take with you on multiday hikes? Let me know in the comments!

wilderness

How to get there?

When to go?

Where to stay?

What to take?

Entrance fee

Renting a bicycle

Do-it-yourself activities

Tung Tree

Ben Cu Rapids

Uncle Dong Tree

Botanical Garden

Heaven’s Rapids

Crocodile Lake

Garlic-Shaped Lagerstroemia Tree

6 Rooted Intersecting Ficus

Bear and Gibbon Rescue Center

Ta Lai Village

Activities

Wild Gibbon Trek

Boat ride to Ta Lai

Night Safari

Dao Tien Engangered Primate Species Center

Final thoughts

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Costs

Rafts

When to go?

How to get there?

Motorbike

Bus

Taxi

Where to stay?

How long to stay?

Other interesting places in the area

Truc Lam Phat Tich Pagoda

Tiger Cave / Nguom Ngao Cave

Nui Mat Than / Angel Eye Mountain

Thang Hen Lake

Cao Bang

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How to get to Phong Nha?

Where to stay before the tour?

Price and booking

When to go?

How long to stay in the area?

The trip plan

Day 1

Day 2

Day 3

Day 4

Other tours

Summary

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How to get to Khao Sok?

When to go?

How long to stay?

Where to stay?

What to take with you?

National Park fees and opening hours

What to do in Khao Sok?

Overnight trip to Cheow Lan Lake

Night jungle walk

Rafflesia flower hike

Ton Kloi Waterfall

Sip Et Chan Falls

Mae Yai Waterfall

Khao Sok Elephant Sanctuary

River tubing or bamboo rafting

Off the beaten trail – Khlong Phanom National Park

Summary

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How to get to Ko Tarutao?

When to go?

How long to stay?

Where to stay?

Getting around the island

Tips

Interesting places

Crocodile Cave