The Ait Bouguemez Valley, often referred to as the “Happy Valley,” is located in the Central High Atlas Mountains of Morocco. It is situated at an elevation of around 1,800 to 2,000 meters above sea level, providing cooler temperatures compared to the surrounding lowlands.
The valley is home to the Ait Bouguemez Berbers, an indigenous group with a rich cultural heritage. The local language is Tamazight, a Berber language. Traditional ways of life are well-preserved here, with agriculture being a primary occupation. The valley is known for its walnuts, apples, and barley crops.
Visitors often hike to nearby peaks such as M’Goun (4,071 meters), the second-highest mountain in Morocco. Moreover, the valley offers opportunities for cultural immersion, including homestays and interactions with local communities. Other notable attractions include the dinosaur footprints near the village of Ibaqalliwn, and the ancient granaries, or “igherm,” used by the Berbers for storage.
How to get there?
To get to Ait Bouguemez Valley, you have several options depending on your starting point and preferred mode of transport:
By Car
The best option is to rent a car either in Marrakesh. There are several interesting places to see en route and the landscape of the High Atlas Mountains is extremely scenic. The distance to Ait Bouguemez Valley is about 180 kilometres (4 – 5 hours).
If you drive from Ouarzazate, it is 222 km (5,5 – 7 hours). The landscape around the road R307 is very beautiful! Fuel stations and amenities become sparse as you get closer to the valley. Ensure your vehicle is well-fueled, and carry enough water and snacks.
By Bus
First, take a bus from Marrakesh to Azilal. The bus ride takes about 4 to 5 hours. Several companies operate this route, and you can find buses departing from the main bus stations in Marrakesh.
In Azilal, you can find a grand taxi or a local minibus to the Ait Bouguemez Valley. This part of the journey takes about 2 to 3 hours. Taxis and minibuses are available near the bus station in Azilal.
The best time to visit Ait Bouguemez Valley is spring (March to May) and autumn (September to November). The weather is pleasantly warm, with daytime temperatures ranging from 15°C to 25°C. This makes exploring villages, hiking, and enjoying outdoor activities comfortable. Autumn is also a harvest time for apples and walnuts, offering a chance to experience local agriculture practices.
Summers can be scorching, with temperatures often exceeding 30°C. While some travellers can handle the heat, it may be uncomfortable for extended outdoor activities. Winters are cold with occasional snowfall. Daytime temperature ranges from 0 C to 15 C. The valley can be very picturesque under a blanket of snow, but some trails and roads may be inaccessible or challenging due to snow and ice.
You should always have some warmer layers, regardless of the season. In the end, it’s mountains there!
How long to stay there?
One day is enough if you plan just to drive to the valley with a few photo stops. However, I highly recommend staying overnight in one of the local homestays and planning at least a few hours hike in the area.
Where to stay?
I spent the night in La Montagne Au Pluriel in Agouti village. The room was cosy and the shared bathroom facilities were clean with ample hot water. The owner was very helpful and offered advice on where to explore the surrounding area. He can also organize a guide for longer treks, e.g. to Mount Goun. I ate breakfast and dinner there and the food was delicious and traditional.
Ait Bouguemez ValleyAit Bouguemez Valley
What to do in Ait Bouguemez Valley?
Trekking
Ait Bouguemez to Timit
I did a half-day trek, starting at my accommodation in Agouti. The morning was so cold that I even wore my thermal underwear but as soon as the sun rose from behind the mountains, it got really hot!
I turned right, crossed over the river and then turned left, following a dirt road surrounded by apple orchards. It’s about 7,5 km (1.5 – 2 hours) to reach a viewpoint in Timit where the ancient granary is located. The views around it are splendid and for a few dirhams, you can go inside and on its roof.
I returned to La Montagne Au Pluriel following an asphalt road. The total distance of the hike was 13 kilometers and it took me about 4-5 hours.
Ait Bouguemez to Ikiss
Another hike option would be heading south towards Ait Said and further through Arrouss to Ikiss. From Arrouss, the path winds its way south through a beautiful gorge, with some nice wildflowers usually lining the route. Once the path leaves the gorge you find yourself at one end of some wide open fields. Monitor the time and your position on Mapy.CZ and turn back to return to Ait Bouguemez the same way. The distance to the Berber village of Ikiss is about 9 kilometres one way.
This section of the hike corresponds to the first day of the ascent to Mount Goun.
Mount Goun
The biggest hiking challenge in the region is definitely Mount Goun. Standing at about 4,071 meters, it is the third-highest peak in North Africa.
There are various routes to the summit, with the standard route passing through the Tarkeddit Plateau. The trek is considered moderate to challenging. It involves high-altitude hiking, and trekkers should be in good physical condition and acclimatized to altitude.
The best time to trek Mount Goun is from May to September when the weather is more stable and the trails are clear of snow. However, weather conditions can change rapidly in the mountains, so it’s important to be prepared.
Guided treks usually take 4-6 days and the best is to find a local guide directly at Ait Bouguemez instead of using the services of travel agents from Marrakesh. It will save you a lot of money, even though you need to arrive at Ait Bouguemez at your own cost. The guide will provide you with food, tents, mules, and muleteers.
For other hiking options, please ask about at your accommodation. Locals have the best knowledge of where to go!
Ait Bouguemez ValleyAit Bouguemez ValleyAit Bouguemez ValleyAit Bouguemez ValleyAit Bouguemez Valley
Dinosaur Footprints
Nothing indicates the presence of the site from the road so it’s a bit hard to find. You need to go behind the houses and it feels like walking into someone’s backyard. Most likely some locals will show you the way for a few dirhams. The rural experience is more fascinating than the tracks themselves, although it really feels like touching the history.
Lac Izoughar
Most likely the lake will be without water, but the views with nearby peaks are well worth it. It’s an easy trek of about 1 hour from the town of Zawyat Oulmzi, starting from the vicinity of Gite Touda.
Tizi N’ Tighist Conservation Center
This museum is located at the foot of Mount Rat and preserves rock inscriptions dating back to more than 2500 years BC. Look for “Tizi N’ Tighist conservation des gravures rupestres de Jbel Rat” in Google Maps.
Tizi n’ Tirghist
You need to go over this pass with an elevation of 2.628 meters above sea level to reach the road R302. Before driving up, make sure the weather conditions are favourable.
Iminifri Natural Bridge
Amazing geological formation located near the town of Demnate. It is a natural rock arch that spans a river, created through the erosive forces of water over a long period. There are steps down on both sides so you can easily make a half an hour loop hike. Good footwear is recommended but you can skip the guide services.
Tizi n’Test is a mountain pass located in the High Atlas mountains, that connects the cities of Marrakech and Taroudant via a scenic but challenging route. The pass is at an elevation of approximately 2,092 meters above sea level.
It has been a critical route for centuries, used by traders and travellers moving between the northern plains and the southern regions of Morocco. The area is rich in Berber culture, with many traditional Berber villages that can be visited along the route.
The Tizi n’Test area is geologically active and subject to seismic events due to the region’s tectonic activity. The High Atlas Mountains are situated on the boundary between the African and Eurasian tectonic plates and this tectonic interaction creates fault lines and seismic activity.
September 2023 Earthquake
A strong 6.8-magnitude earthquake occurred in Morocco on September 8, 2023. The epicentre was roughly 72 kilometres southwest of Marrakech, close to the town of Oukaimedene in the High Atlas Mountains. This earthquake occurred at a shallow depth of 18 kilometres, resulting in strong surface shaking that was felt over a wide area, including Casablanca, Portugal, and Algeria. Significant damage was wrought by the earthquake, especially in the province of Al Haouz and the neighbouring High Atlas area. Over 2,900 people lost their lives and over 5,500 were injured as a result of it. Buildings collapsed and infrastructure was damaged in numerous isolated mountain settlements, making rescue operations difficult. Marrakech’s historic neighbourhoods also sustained significant damage.
About 20 minutes after the initial earthquake, an additional 4.9 magnitude aftershock occurred, making rescue and relief efforts much more challenging. The level of destruction and the difficult terrain presented major obstacles to the Moroccan government’s and foreign aid organizations’ massive attempts to deliver relief to the impacted populace.
Destruction along Tizi n’TestDestruction along Tizi n’TestDestruction along Tizi n’TestDestruction along Tizi n’Test
How to get there?
The best option is to rent a car either in Taroudant, Marrakesh or Agadir. The landscape is phenomenal and it’s good to be independent and travel at your own pace. I did the drive in a Renault Clio so a 4×4 vehicle is not necessary.
If you decide to start from Agadir, I recommend using the service of Click’n’Go Car Rental. Amiable guys and easy to contact on WhatsApp. I rented a Renault Clio for the whole month and got a nice price.
Not having a car will make a trip significantly longer and less comfortable. Most likely you will need to take local minibuses or hitchhike but there is not a lot of traffic.
The best time to visit
The best time to drive Tizi n’Test is during the late spring, summer, and early autumn months.
Late Spring (April to June): Generally mild and pleasant temperatures. The mountains are lush with greenery and wildflowers are in bloom, making for beautiful views.
Summer (July to September): Warm to hot temperatures but cooler in the higher elevation of the pass. The road is typically clear of snow, and driving conditions are generally safe. There are fewer tourists compared to other popular destinations in Morocco, offering a more tranquil experience.
Early Autumn (October to early November): Mild and pleasant temperatures with the possibility of cooler nights. The autumn colours begin to appear, adding to the visual appeal of the drive.
Winter (December to February): Definitely to avoid. The pass can be closed due to snow and icy conditions. Even if open, the driving can be hazardous. Early spring (March) is not the best either. While the snow might begin to melt, conditions can still be unpredictable, with the possibility of lingering snow and ice on the road.
Safety
As mentioned before, I did the drive in a Renault Clio so a 4×4 vehicle is not necessary. However, always aim to travel during daylight hours to better appreciate the views and ensure safer driving conditions. Before embarking on your journey, check the weather forecast and road conditions. Weather in mountainous areas can change rapidly.
A mobile signal may be weak or nonexistent in some areas, so inform someone of your travel plans and expected arrival time. Last but not least, ensure your vehicle is in good condition, with a full tank of fuel and emergency supplies. By planning your trip during the optimal months and taking necessary precautions, you can enjoy a safe and scenic drive through the Tizi n’Test.
The landscape around Tizi n’TestThe landscape around Tizi n’TestThe landscape around Tizi n’TestThe landscape around Tizi n’Test
How long does it take?
The distance between Taroudant and Marrakesh is 225 km and it takes 5 hours of driving but obviously, you should add some time for stops as the views are amazing. A detour to Lalla Takerkoust will add about one more extra hour to driving time.
The drive through Tizi n’Test
I had some doubts if driving through the pass a few days after the earthquake was a good idea, but the day before departure I had met a guy travelling on a motorcycle who confirmed that the pass was open. I left Taroudant very early in the morning and headed east towards Oulad Ali. It was October 24th, so a bit over a month since the deadly earthquake.
On the way there I noticed three young boys hitchhiking on the side of the road so I decided to give them a lift. They seemed to be really nice even though we couldn’t communicate in English. I made several stops to take pictures and soon I saw the first village which seemed to be destroyed by the quake. There was a lot of rubble and some collapsed buildings. I bit further were emergency tents in blue or yellow colours, providing temporary shelters for inhabitants.
Destruction along Tizi n’TestThe landscape around Tizi n’TestTemporary tentsThe landscape around Tizi n’TestThe landscape around Tizi n’Test
The way to the top of the pass was easy and soon I reached Hotel La Haute Vue. A traditional small cafe and restaurant where you can enjoy cool drinks or even spend a night if you wish to. Waking up near the top of the pass must be magical!
More interesting places and landscapes were waiting along on the descent. Near the pass is the historic Tin Mal Mosque, built in the 12th century. It is one of the few mosques in Morocco that non-Muslims can visit and is an important site in Moroccan history. It was significantly damaged during the earthquake and was off-limits for tourists.
I took many hitchhikers on that day. The most interesting was the guy carrying a huge bag full of nuts. As we reached his destination, he repacked some nuts into a smaller plastic bag and handed it to me as a thank-you gift. Very nice of him!
The area along the descent towards Marrakesh seemed to be the most destroyed by the earthquake, with lots of collapsed buildings emergency tents and destroyed cars. I saw plenty of police and military vehicles as well as volunteers working for World Central Kitchen and other humanitarian organizations providing aid.
Temporary tentsDestruction along Tizi n’TestDestruction along Tizi n’TestDestruction along Tizi n’TestDestruction along Tizi n’TestDestruction along Tizi n’TestDestruction along Tizi n’TestMy Brahim townMy Brahim townMy Brahim town
Local people were forced to live inside temporary tents while the temperatures at night were close to 0 C. It was a shocking view and it helped to realize how powerful that natural disaster was. The houses in that region are mostly built from clay or earth and that’s why they are so fragile to collapse.
When I passed Asni, I decided to make a detour to Lalla Takerkoust to see the lake, but the way to get there was much more interesting than the lake itself.
The lake is actually a reservoir created by the Lalla Takerkoust Dam, built during the French colonial period in the 1920s. It is a popular spot for water activities such as jet skiing, kayaking, paddle boarding, and fishing. The serene environment also makes it ideal for picnics and relaxing by the water.
Agafay Desert may not be as impressive as the Sahara, but the first impression was quite good. Lots of quads were driving around as it is a popular half-day activity from Marrakesh.
Dakhla, located on a narrow peninsula in the Western Sahara region, is a unique and increasingly popular travel destination. Its lagoon is especially famous among water sports enthusiasts, who come over to practice mostly kitesurfing and windsurfing.
Dakhla has a rich history influenced by various cultures, including Berber, Arabic, and Spanish. It was previously known as Villa Cisneros during Spanish colonial rule. Today, the town retains a mix of Moroccan and Sahrawi cultures, with traditional music, crafts, and cuisine being important aspects of daily life.
The area around Dakhla has been inhabited for thousands of years, primarily by Berber tribes. In ancient times, it was part of trans-Saharan trade routes, facilitating exchanges between sub-Saharan Africa, North Africa, and Europe.
Fishermen boats
In the late 19th century, during the Scramble for Africa, Spain established control over parts of the Western Sahara, including Dakhla. The town was founded in 1884 as Villa Cisneros, named after Francisco Jiménez de Cisneros, a Spanish cardinal. Under Spanish rule, Villa Cisneros became an important administrative and military outpost. The Spanish constructed infrastructure such as roads, buildings, and a military base.
After World War II, anti-colonial movements gained momentum across Africa. In Western Sahara, resistance against Spanish rule began to intensify. By the mid-20th century, Spain faced increasing pressure to decolonize. In 1975, following the Madrid Accords, Spain agreed to withdraw from Western Sahara, transferring administrative control to Morocco and Mauritania.
Local fishermen on the beach
The withdrawal of Spain led to a conflict involving Morocco, Mauritania, and the Polisario Front, which seeks independence for Western Sahara. Mauritania withdrew in 1979, leaving Morocco in control of Dakhla and most of Western Sahara. A ceasefire was brokered by the United Nations in 1991, but the political status of Western Sahara remains unresolved. Dakhla is currently administered by Morocco, which considers it part of its southern provinces.
Today, the Moroccan Western Sahara Wall or the Berm, which is approximately 2,700 km long, runs south to north through Western Sahara and the southwestern portion of Morocco. It separates the Moroccan-controlled areas on the west from the Polisario-controlled areas on the east.
How to get there?
To get to Laayoune in Western Sahara, you typically have a few options:
By Air: You can fly to Dakhla Airport with Royal Air Maroc from major cities, such as Casablanca or Marrakech.
By Road: The roads are generally well-maintained, but it’s a long journey, so be prepared for a drive of several hours or more depending on your starting point. If you are looking for a rental car in Agadir, I recommend using the service of Click’n’Go Car Rental. They are very friendly guys and easy to contact on WhatsApp. I ended up renting a Renault Clio for the whole month and got a nice price.
By Bus: Supratours and CTMare two popular bus companies operating in Morocco.
The best time to visit Western Sahara is during the spring (March to May) and fall (September to November) when the weather is mild and pleasant. Summer can be quite hot, while winter brings cooler but enjoyable temperatures. Choosing spring or fall ensures a comfortable climate for enjoying nearby beaches and exploring the city and its surroundings.
The city centre of Dakhla
Where to stay?
Karam City Hotel is an excellent choice. It is very well located in the city centre, close to shops, restaurants and waterfront. It has very good internet for remote work and a tasty breakfast that you can purchase additionally.
How long to stay there?
One full day in Dakhla is enough to walk around the town and try seafood. Count in extra days in case you want to practice windsurfing or kitesurfing which are extremely popular in the bay or venture out of town to the desert.
Faro de Dakhla
How to get around?
The city centre of Dakhla can be easily explored on foot, but to reach sights out of it, you will need your wheels. I rented a Dacia Duster for 2 days from Baie Car. I got in touch with them on WhatsApp and the car was delivered straight to my hotel. The price was 900 MAD for 2 days. Perfect experience!
Once driving, don’t forget your passport as you may encounter frequent police checkpoints.
My rented Dacia Duster
What to do in Dakhla?
The city center of Dakhla is not particularly nice to walk around but there are a few sights worth checking out. Several mosques serve the Muslim population: Grande Mosquée de Dakhla, Mosquée Eddarham, Mosquée du Quartier Al-Ghofrane and Mosquée Albir.
Catholic temple is present too – Iglesia de Nuestra Señora del Carmen. A small group of priests, who alternate between this church and the Cathedral of St. Francis of Assisi in Laayoune, oversee the temple. Spanish settlers constructed it for what is sometimes referred to as the Spanish Church. Nearby is a quiet park with a fountain.
Iglesia de Nuestra Señora del CarmenA park with a fountain
The other three sights are located on the outskirts of town, so you will need to take a short taxi ride to get there. Don’t forget to negotiate the price!
Faro de Dakhla is a lighthouse dating back to the Spanish colonial era. The lighthouse is a popular spot for sunset viewing and fishing with a beautiful view of the Atlantic Ocean.
Faro de Dakhla
La Sarga is a fishing village located about 15 km south of Dakhla, at the end of the peninsula. There are hundreds of fishing boats there that are towed to and from the sea by tractors. The working conditions of the fishermen are harsh and the poor housing is eye-opening. The people are friendly although the amount of rubbish all around is overwhelming and depressing view.
Oum El Bouir is a relatively nice sandy beach which is the nearest one to Dakhla city centre.
What to do out of town?
The whole peninsula is famous among water sports enthusiasts and you will see plenty of shops or resorts offering courses of kitesurfing or windsurfing. It’s an excellent place to learn new sports or improve your skills.
Trouke 25 Beach is a good spot to chill with the view of Dragon Island and big parking with plenty of campervans. It is possible to walk all the way to the island during low tide but be careful and check the tide times before you set off as you don’t want to be stuck on the island overnight. Fishermen come over here to collect various seafood from the seabed.
A view of Dragon Island
The White Dune is probably the most popular natural tourist attraction in Dakhla and can be seen in every travel brochure. It is reachable by 4WD through a dirt road cutting across the desert, but if you are ready to walk, you can get there even without 4WD as I did.
From the main road, turn right into a dirt road leading to Paraiso Dakhla Hotel. Drive as far as you can and then simply park the car on the roadside and continue on foot. You may want to use the mobile app MapyCZ for navigation as it shows all the paths in that area. It is possible to turn the hike into a pretty long loop, going back to the car through a desert and not along the coast. Don’t forget the water!
At low tide and from the distance, the White Dune looks like an island. First, I climbed it and then went down again to take some pictures from a different perspective. It was windy but absolutely breathtaking!
The White DuneWalking towards the White DuneA desert on the way to the White DuneA desert on the way to the White DuneA dirt road towards the White Dune
PortoricoBeach is a beautiful place, with a huge bay and a desert that falls directly into the sea. It was so windy that I ended up with sand all over my face. The way down there is a bit bumpy but doable in 2WD with higher clearance. There is a military post but the guards were friendly and greeted me with smiles.
Portorico BeachPortorico Beach
The Tropic of Cancer passes through eight countries in Africa, namely Egypt, Libya, Chad, Niger, Algeria, Mali, Mauritania and Western Sahara. You will spot an information board about 5 kilometres south from the turn-off to Portorico Beach.
The Tropic of Cancer
Imlili Desert was definitely a highlight of my trip. I turned left from the main road, about 55 kilometres south of the Dakhla Roundabout. The target was to reach Imlili Sebkha which is a salt flat with over 160 permanent holes of hypersaline water containing fish. Unfortunately, the pools are not signposted and I wouldn’t risk going there without 4X4.
For the first few kilometres, the road was in excellent condition but then the asphalt finished and I hit the dirt. It was possible to continue further until I reached a very sandy section. I didn’t pass any other cars on the way there and when I looked around I didn’t see anyone either. As my car wasn’t 4X4, I decided not to try my luck. I parked Duster on the roadside and continued on foot to the nearby hill.
The panorama of the Imlili Desert was magnificent even though it was very windy. I felt some regret that I couldn’t continue driving further but I knew that turning back was the only sensible thing to do. I didn’t even have a mobile signal!
As the alternative to self-driving, the Imlili Desert can be visited as a part of an organized 4X4 tour, however, it won’t be cheap. Ask about it at your accommodation in Dakhla and they will provide you with the latest offers and prices.
Imlili DesertImlili Desert
If you continue further south towards the border with Mauretania, you will pass Imlili Town and most probably another police patrol. A police officer asked me where I was heading but luckily a very simple answer that I was just sightseeing and driving around satisfied him. About 7 kilometres after Imlili, watch out for a turn off to the right, into an asphalt road. It goes to CandelariaBeach which is another secluded place with a small military camp. Soon after the turn-off, on your left you will spot huge salt flats, so don’t hesitate to park the car at the roadside and walk around to take some pictures. On the right, you can climb the dunes for the magnificent ocean view.
Salt flats on the way to Candelaria BeachLong and empty Candelaria BeachSea turtle shell
Candelaria Beach was the southernmost point that I visited in Western Sahara. I saw plenty of tourists travelling towards the border with Mauretania in their campervans and it was tempting to do the same, even by hitchhiking. Hopefully one day I will be able to get to that country too!
Vang Vieng is a popular tourist town in Laos, located about 150 kilometres north of the capital, Vientiane. It’s known for its stunning natural landscapes, which include limestone karst hills, caves, and the Nam Song River.
The town is famous for its outdoor adventure opportunities, such as tubing, kayaking, rock climbing, and hiking. The river tubing experience, once notorious for its party scene, has been reformed to be more family-friendly and safer. The area is also home to numerous caves, such as Tham Phu Kham and Tham Chang, which are popular for exploration. Hot air balloon rides are available for those who want to see the landscape from above. You definitely won’t get bored here!
When to go?
The most popular time to visit Laos is between November and April, at least if you don’t like rain as it’s the dry season. However, nothing is as easy as it seems. You won’t get wet, but it’s the time of intense agricultural burnouts with dense haze hanging over the mountains and the air quality is regularly rated as unhealthy.
I traveled to Laos in March but next time I would go at the very beginning or the end of the rainy season, so in October or May. Getting a bit wet is certainly better than breathing in all that air pollution!
How to get there?
By train
Laos-China railway is the first railway network in Laos and it’s becoming increasingly popular as it connects the major cities and towns like Vientiane, Vang Vieng, Luang Prabang and Boten. The average travel duration on the route between Vientiane and Vang Vieng is about 1 hour. It’s advised to buy the train tickets in advance to secure your seats.
By road
Regular buses run from the Northern Bus Station (Khua Din Bus Station) in Vientiane to Vang Vieng. The journey typically takes about 4-5 hours and is the most economical option.
Minivans are a bit faster than buses, taking around 3-4 hours. They depart from various locations in Vientiane, including travel agencies and guesthouses. Minivans are more comfortable and often have air conditioning.
There are also regular buses from Luang Prabang, taking around 6-7 hours. The buses depart from the Southern Bus Station.
Similar to buses, minivans are available and offer a slightly faster journey, around 5-6 hours. They also provide more comfort and air conditioning.
By air
There are no direct flights to Vang Vieng, as it does not have an airport. Travellers can fly to Vientiane or Luang Prabang and then take a bus, minivan, or taxi to Vang Vieng.
I spent two nights in Saphaothong Guesthousewhich was a good choice. The room was spacious and there was a desk for working. The reception guy was very friendly and he organized a scooter for me, although its quality was far from optimal.
The room in Saphaothong Guesthouse
How long should you stay?
I would recommend a minimum of 2-3 days to cover the sights around Vang Vieng. The countryside around the town is gorgeous and there are so many caves, lagoons, mountains and villages to explore that you don’t want to be in a hurry.
The landscape around Vang Vieng
How to get around?
The town itself is small, and many attractions, restaurants, and accommodations are within walking distance. However, for attractions outside the town centre, you’ll need another mode of transportation.
Bicycles can be rented from various guesthouses, hotels, and rental shops in town. They are fine to explore some nearby attractions like caves and blue lagoons but are definitely not suitable for longer distances or rough terrain.
Scooters provide flexibility to explore farther and at your own pace, especially in hot weather. Don’t forget that you need a driving licence, even if no one asks you for one during the renting process. Otherwise, you won’t be covered by your travel insurance. Roads can be rough and safety gear like helmets should always be used. Also, be prepared to get dirty as most of the roads around Vang Vieng are dirt ones and every time someone overtakes you, you will find yourself in a dirt cloud.
A dirt road through the countryside
If you don’t feel comfortable riding a scooter, tuk-tuks can be easily found in the town centre and around popular tourist spots. Can be more expensive than other options, and prices often need to be negotiated.
Another alternative is to rent a buggy, especially if travelling in a group, although it also isn’t the most budget-friendly option. Moreover, check the condition of the vehicle before you hit the road as some of them look like they are going to fall apart…
What to do in Vang Vieng?
Temples
There are a few interesting Buddhist temples in Vang Vieng town centre, e.g. Wat Si Sou Mang, Wat Kang, Wat Simixay Yaram or Wat That.
Tham Chang
The most accessible of the caves in the Vang Vieng area, within walking distance from the town. You have to climb about 150 steps to get to the cave entrance. The ticket costs 20.000 LAK and the cave is very easy to explore with pathways and lights. There are also some food vendors outside selling drinks and snacks.
The aerial view of Ban Nampè village
Blue Lagoon 1 and Phu Kham Cave
The busiest and most popular of the lagoons due to its proximity to Vang Vieng. There is a 5-meter jumping platform and some swings. It can get very crowded and noisy so for sure the place isn’t right for everyone, but the cave with the laying Buddha is impressive and worth exploring. You will most likely be completely alone there if you enter a bit deeper. It’s slippery inside, so bring good shoes and a flashlight is a must. You can rent some at the entrance of the cave.
Blue Lagoons 2, 3, 5
Vang Vieng is surely not short on natural springs. While some lagoons are more picturesque than others, there can be a large number of visitors, particularly at the busiest time of year. The majority of them have rope swings and jumping platforms. Besides popular Blue Lagoon 1, it’s worth visiting more distant but often less crowded lagoons numbered 2, 3 and 5. Blue Lagoon 5 is the most faraway one, however, you will ride through a very scenic village Ban Nampè, which is a great experience in itself.
One of blue lagoonsThe aerial view of a small village near Vang Vieng
Vangvieng Inter Park and Nang Oua Khiam Cave
Nice place with a swimming area and plenty of shaded rest areas. The dinosaur statues are kitschy but nature is worth exploring. I highly recommend climbing up to the cave and the viewpoint. The way to the top is definitely not 30 meters as stated on the information board and it will take you about 20 – 30 minutes to reach the observation platform. The good point is that there are hardly any tourists visiting this viewpoint so most likely you will have it for yourself. If you want to check out the cave, bring your torch!
Spectacular view from the viewpoint at Vangvieng Inter Park
Nam Xay Viewpoint
A short but steep and sweaty hike will reward you with breathtaking 360-degree views of dramatic karst rock formations, verdant forests, and stretches of rural land and rice fields when reaching the summit. A wooden viewing deck is placed on top but feel free to explore the vista from all sides by moving around it over the rocks. Just below the summit, on both sides, are oddly positioned motorcycles, which you can sit on to get a fantastic picture!
The hike to the top takes about 30 minutes and the place can get crazily busy at sunset time.
Highly popular photo spot on Nam Xay ViewpointAerial view of Nam Xay Viewpoint
Phapoungkham Cave and Viewpoint
In my opinion, the best short hike and viewpoint in the Vang Vieng area. There’s a lot more to explore than just the viewpoint which makes it well worth the time and effort. You will see a cave, Buddha statues, and the aeroplane at the top. The entrance costs 20.000 LAK per person and it takes about 20-30 minutes to reach the top, mostly walking on slabs and rocks. Wear comfortable shoes. There was no one else besides me which added to the experience, especially after visiting a very busy Nam Xay Viewpoint.
Phapoungkham ViewpointPhapoungkham Viewpoint
Num Bor Keo Cave
If you’re searching for a more daring kind of cave exploring, Num Bor Keo Cave is a bit difficult to find, but well worth the effort. You will pay a 20.000 LAK entrance fee and they give you a small headlamp. The cave is more of a crawling and easy climbing experience. Sometimes you will notice yellow arrows that show you the way to go. It is a nice place to visit, but it is understandable why there are fewer tourists than in other caves in the Vang Vieng area.
Pha Ngern View Point
The physically demanding Pha Ngern hike is divided into two parts. Depending on your speed, it takes about 1 – 1,5 hours to get to the summit, with a stop at the first viewpoint on the way. Most of the trail is pretty steep so take your time and don’t forget water!
You will have to pay 10,000 LAK to enter the path. A small hut at the first viewpoint sells water, soft drinks and snacks. The views are magnificent and there was also a buggy placed on the rocks. Interesting trend to put these kinds of things on top of almost all viewpoints in Vang Vieng!
Pha Ngern View PointPha Ngern View Point
Angel Cave
A nice cave that is well lit up, and easy to walk across as there is a concrete path all the way through. You can find food and drinks right outside after you’re done with sightseeing.
Kaeng Nyui Waterfall
The place is to be visited in the wet season only, otherwise don’t expect any water. From the starting point to the waterfall is only a short walk. As of May 2024, the road to get there was under construction, so it will eventually be a really easy bike ride out there once the works are over.
Loup Cave
One of the best caves in Vang Vieng. If you travel on a scooter, you will have to pay a bridge toll of 5,000 LAK. After that, you arrive at a grassy field with a stand where you are charged 15,000 LAK to access one cave or 30,000 LAK for two of them. The caves are completely dark inside with no lights. You will be given a headlamp, but usually it isn’t very strong, so it’s better to have your own, more powerful one.
Tham Nam (Water Cave)
The most notable cave in the north of Vang Vieng. The 500-meter-long cave has an entrance from which a branch of the Nam Song flows. You can wade inside the cave during the dry season, but when the water is higher, you’ll need to borrow a tube and sit inside it, dragging yourself down the tunnel using the fixed rope. It was a truly unique experience!
Elephant Cave
There is not much to see except for the stone which resembles an elephant and a sleeping Buddha. You should be able to complete the tour in less than 5 minutes. You can stop here on the way to Tham Nam, otherwise don’t bother.
TCK Zipline
The place gets good reviews and I heard that ziplining there is incredible. The superb views and the friendly staff make the experience perfectly enjoyable.
Hot air balloon
A ride in a hot-air balloon is a lovely way to see the cliffs, tapestry of paddy fields and snaking river below. Departures are at sunrise and sunset and a 1-hour ride costs 100 – 150 USD. One of the most reputable operators is Above Laos.
Mount Kinabalu is the highest peak in Borneo, standing at 4,095 meters. It is located in the Malaysian state of Sabah and is part of the Kinabalu National Park, which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Mount Kinabalu is a granite massif formed about 10 million years ago. Over time, the mountain has been uplifted, and its distinctive jagged peaks have been sculpted by erosion and glaciation. The mountain is renowned for its rich biodiversity, with distinct vegetation zones ranging from lowland rainforests to alpine meadows. It is home to over 5,000 plant species, including the famous Rafflesia, the world’s largest flower, and numerous endemic orchid species. Kinabalu National Park was established in 1964 and became Malaysia’s first World Heritage Site in 2000.
Mount Kinabalu holds significant cultural and spiritual importance to the indigenous Kadazan-Dusun people, who believe that the mountain is the resting place of their ancestors’ spirits.
The first formal ascent of Mount Kinabalu was recorded in 1851 by Sir Hugh Low, the British colonial secretary on Labuan Island.
On June 5, 2015, an earthquake with a magnitude of 6.0 occurred in Ranau and lasted for 30 seconds. Since the Sabah earthquake in 1976, this was the strongest earthquake to strike Malaysia. There were eighteen confirmed deaths on Mount Kinabalu, comprising six Malaysians, two Chinese, and ten Singaporeans. After becoming stranded on the mountain, about 137 climbers were eventually rescued.
How do you get to Kundasang?
Kundasang is about a 2-hour drive from Kota Kinabalu, the capital of Sabah. You can rent a car at Hikmah Rental & Tours. Excellent contact on WhatsApp and unproblematic rental experience at a good price. The drive offers scenic views of the mountains and countryside.
Shared taxis depart from Merdeka Square in Kota Kinabalu when full. You will pay about 40 RM for a seat and the driver can drop you off at the entrance to Kinabalu National Park.
If you decide to do the hike with a travel agency, transportation by minivan will be included.
Mount Kinabalu
When to go?
The best time to climb Mount Kinabalu is generally during the dry season, which runs from March to September. There is less chance of rain, which makes the trails safer and the views clearer. The summit can be very cold at any time of the year, especially during the early morning hours when climbers aim to reach the peak for sunrise.
Bookings, permits and guides
Let me start by saying that climbing Mount Kinabalu isn’t cheap.
Several operators organize tours to the islands, but the most popular seems to be Borneo Calling. The price of a 2D1N budget hike is 1750 RM for international tourists and 1350 RM for Malaysians. They will organize everything for you: accommodation (Panalaban Hostel or Lemaing Hut), permits and guides.
If you decide to organize your hike independently, you will pay about 1600 RM for accommodation at Laban Rata. On top of that, there is an entrance ticket to Kinabalu National Park (50 RM), a hiking permit (400 RM) and a mountain guide (350 RM). If you arrive at the registration office early enough, you may be lucky to find other people to share the cost of the mountain guide with (max. 5 hikers per 1 guide).
Regardless of the option that you choose, remember that the number of permits is limited and despite the costs, it is a highly popular hike. Therefore, you must book your tour or secure a bed in a hostel a few weeks, or even months in advance.
How long is the hike?
The round trip to the summit of Mount Kinabalu is approximately 17.4 kilometres, typically takes two days and involves two main stages:
Day 1: Trailhead to Laban Rata
Approximately 6 kilometres, 4 to 6 hours with an elevation gain of about 1.400 meters. Hikers usually take a minibus to the Timpohon Gate and start hiking from there, following a well-marked trail through diverse vegetation zones, ranging from tropical rainforest to alpine meadows. The trail is steep and involves many steps. Hikers stay overnight at Laban Rata or one of the other Sutera Lodges Accommodation sites.
Day 2: Laban Rata to summit and back to the trailhead
Approximately 2.7 kilometres to the summit, plus 8.7 kilometres return to the trailhead. It takes between 2 to 4 hours to reach the summit and 4 to 6 hours for the descent. Elevation gain is about 822 meters from Laban Rata to the summit. Hikers usually begin the final ascent around 2 AM to reach the summit for sunrise. The last part of the climb involves steep granite slabs and ropes to assist in the ascent. After reaching the summit, hikers descend back to Laban Rata for breakfast before continuing the descent to the Timpohon Gate.
There is an option to spend an extra night in Laban Rata after the descent from the summit, but it will significantly increase the already high costs of the hike.
There are rest shelters with basic toilets at regular intervals.
Clouds usually roll in after 10 AM
What to pack?
Pack appropriate clothing and gear, including warm layers, waterproof clothing, and sturdy hiking boots. Overall, while the dry season offers the best conditions for climbing, careful planning and preparation can make your climb enjoyable and successful at any time of the year. Here is the list of some essentials:
Fleece or insulated jackets
Waterproof and windproof jacket and pants.
Comfortable and quick-drying pants.
T-shirts
Warm hat and gloves
Socks
Hiking Boots
Backpack (30-40 litres) with a rain cover.
Headlamp
Trekking Poles
Water Bottle or Hydration Bladder
Sunglasses
Sunhat and sunscreen
Camera or smartphone
Climbing permit and ID
Cash
First aid kit
Snacks
Insect repellent
Towel
Optional: power bank (there is an option to charge the devices in Laban Rata)
If you feel that you took too much and there are things you don’t need, leave them in the room at Laban Rata and pick them up on the way back. You don’t want to wear a heavy backpack on the summit push in the night!
Where to stay?
If you go on a hike with a travel agent, they will pick you up in the morning from the hotel in Kota Kinabalu. I based myself there for a few days and can recommend three places: ATAP Hotel, Hotel Tourist by HotSpot Essential and Akinabalu Youth Hostel. All of them were affordable and offered a nice and clean private room.
If you travel to Kundasang independently, I would suggest arriving one day before the hike, to avoid unnecessary rush and morning stress that you won’t make it before 10:30 AM which is the cut-off time to start the hike at Timpohon Gate. I spent the night at Happy Garden, which is a no-frills hostel with a restaurant on-site. It’s within walking distance to the entrance of Kinabalu National Park so you won’t need any further transport in the morning.
Wildlife on the trail 🙂
2D 1N itinerary
Day 1: Timpohon Gate – Laban Rata
I woke up at about 7 AM and had a quick breakfast in the nearby restaurant. Spending the night at Happy Garden meant that I was only 20 20-minute walk away from Kinabalu Park Headquarters.
After arriving at the registration center I quickly succeeded in finding a group of 3 other hikers to share the costs of the guide with. Then, we got our permits, picked up a packed lunch and got ready for departure. The guide was an older man but he spoke quite good English.
To get to the beginning of the trail at Timpohon Gate, we took a minibus. Then, we had a safety briefing and our guide told us that we were a group but if someone wanted to go faster, there was no need to wait for others. Well, fair enough, although in such a case I have no idea why the guide is mandatory at all.
It was exactly as my guide said. Our group soon split and I reached Laban Rata by myself, while the guide simply followed the slower person.
Beginning of the trailOn the trail
Shortly after the beginning of the trail I passed Carson’s Falls and made my way uphill through the beautiful forest. More or less at the halfway to Laban Rata, I made a break for a packed lunch. In the box, there was some fried chicken with veggies. Not particularly delicious but fine enough. The weather was getting worse with more and more fog rolling over the slopes and for a short moment, it was even drizzling. The trail was still forested but soon it changed into a subalpine meadow.
Upon arrival at Laban Rata Resthouse, I got a key to the 4-person dormitory and quickly changed my clothes to the dry set. I didn’t take a shower as the water was freezing cold. Keep that in mind 🙂 After spending some time in the common room, the rest of my group was still not there so I simply took a nap. I felt cold, even though I was wearing my warm puffer jacket from Nepal. Quite strange. Also, even though I felt very tired, I couldn’t fall asleep. It made me a bit worried.
The higher you get, the foggier it becomesLaban Rata Resthouse
Was it because of the altitude? Laban Rata is located at 3,272 metres above sea level, so some people may experience some discomfort. When the rest of my group finally arrived at the dormitory, it was time to get dinner. The problem was that I had zero appetite and only had some sweet jelly for dessert and drank two cups of tea.
After dinner, I preventively took some pills just to make sure that I would be in good shape in the morning. Unfortunately, I still couldn’t sleep at night.
The meal schedule in Laban Rata is as follows:
Dinner: 4:30 PM until 7 PM
Supper: 2 AM until 3:30 AM
Breakfast: 7:30 AM until 10:30 AM
All the meals are served in the form of a buffet.
Electricity is on from 4 PM to 10 OM and from 1 AM to 3:30 AM.
Day 2: Laban Rata – Summit – Timpohon Gate
The second day started with waking up at 2 AM and having a quick breakfast. I wasn’t too hungry but I had to force myself to eat as I felt I needed some calories. We departed at 2:30 AM. Most of the people left at the same time so there was quite a traffic jam at the stairs. The two women from my group stayed behind already at the very beginning and we waited for a while but there was no sign of them. Later we found out that they had turned back. Did they also experience the same health discomfort as me?
I was going up mostly following the stairs. Then the section with steep granite slabs and the line started. There was no vegetation around. The line was just for assecuration, rather than pulling myself up. I was getting weaker and slower as my body didn’t want to continue that adventure. I was struggling both mentally and physically. I made frequent breaks to catch my breath or even sit down for a while. I think it was a nasty combination of altitude impact as well as stomach issues.
The section with the ropeThe section with the rope
I was fighting my way up while the sunrise was getting closer and closer. I could already see the summit but still, it looked quite far away. The last section was really steep and involved some easy scrambling on the rocks.
Finally, I reached the top! The other guy from my group arrived shortly after me. Then, even our guide showed up! We took some pictures with the board showing the name of the mountain and started the descent. It was the last time when I saw the two guys from my group. The way down was certainly much easier and I started taking off layers of my clothes as the sun was quickly warming me up. While looking back, I was impressed that I climbed up all that way in the darkness.
Sunrise at Mount Kinabalu
After reaching Laban Rata, I had a small breakfast with French toast and some fried potatoes. I also met the two women from my group and they confirmed that they turned back as one of them didn’t feel good. I think they expected a way easier adventure climb, the same as me. But Mount Kinabalu isn’t that easy after all!
The remaining distance down to Timpohon Gate was a real pain in the *ss. My knees were done as the total elevation drop was over 2.000 meters! Adding to that, the path was steep and full of rocks and stones. With two breaks en route, I finally made it to the Timpohon Gate and I bought a coke and mineral water there. A minibus was waiting to take hikers back to the Kinabalu Park Headquarters but the driver said we needed to wait for more people to join. We had been waiting for about half an hour and the group of 4 hikers arrived. Once we were on the way to the parking, heavy rain started. What a timing!
Descending from Mount Kinabalu
At the Kinabalu Park Headquarters, I asked about transport options back to KK but they could only offer a private shuttle for 250 RM. It was way too much! I waited a bit for the rain to stop and then walked towards the roadside to try to flag down some minibus. I had been waiting for about 15 minutes when I noticed the first minibus heading in my direction. It was full but shortly after another stopped and then I jumped on board.
Alternative descent: Via Ferrata
Once booked a tour, you can also opt for the itinerary including via ferrata on the descent. Situated on the Panalaban rock face of Mount Kinabalu, Mountain Torq is the highest via ferrata in the world and the first via ferrata in Asia.
Walk the Torq and Low’s Peak Circuit are the two Via Ferrata itineraries that are offered. Climbers with no prior professional mountaineering experience can enjoy the activity on both routes.
Was it worth it?
All in all, it is a great, scenic and challenging hike. But is it worth the price? In my opinion, it isn’t. Before arriving in Borneo, I spent one month in Nepal. The amount of money that I paid for the 2D1N hike to the Kinabalu summit would probably keep me going for over a week or even more in the Himalayas, with definitely much more spectacular views. There are no alternatives to Sutera Sanctuary Lodges which use their monopoly to charge excessively for literally everything, but the quality is just average.
What else to do around Kundasang?
Kinabalu National Park
There are several shorter trails in the park that you can combine into one loop and hike without a guide. From the main entrance, join the Liwagu Trail and then turn left onto Mempening Trail. Follow it until you reach an asphalt road. Then, to come back to the main entrance, join Kiau View Trail or Silau Silau Trail. Kiau Gap View Point is an excellent place in clear weather, so arrive here very early in the morning.
As of May 2024, Liwagu Trail was closed after the crossroad with Mempening Trail.
There is also the mountain garden which is open from 9 AM to 4 PM every day. Visitors can visit the garden and roam by themself at any time during the opening hours, however, guided tours with Sabah Park’s interpretation guide are scheduled at 9 AM, 12 PM and 3 PM.
Aki Aki Trail
The 3.3 km trail with proper facilities such as staircases and platforms with a view of the majestic Mount Kinabalu. However, it goes through private property and you need to hire a guide. I have seen some reports from people saying that they were quoted over 200 RM, which is totally ridiculous and sounds like a scam.
Kundasang War Memorial
It honours the British and Australian detainees who lost their lives during the infamous Sandakan Death Marches and at the Sandakan and Ranau POW camps as well as Borneo natives who lost their lives helping them.
Quite a pity that even in a place like this, there is a double pricing for Malaysians and foreigners.
Maragang Hill
The Maragang Hill, which is 2,232 metres above sea level, was opened to the public in 2017. Hikers can choose from different packages, such as sunrise hikes (3 AM) and regular hikes (6 AM) on the conventional or loop trail. The regular trail takes roughly 3-4 hours to finish on average. I opted for a regular 6 AM version and arrived on time at the meeting point. The guide was late for about 20 minutes and I was slowly getting annoyed because I was aware that shortly after sunrise, Mount Kinabalu could be covered in clouds. Finally, when the guide arrived, we jumped inside a pick-up truck and were taken higher up the road to the trailhead. Having a guide on this trail was ridiculous as it was very easy to follow and the guy was simply walking behind me smoking cigarettes all the way.
After about an hour or so we arrived at the top and the views were great. Mount Kinabalu from that perspective looked simply breathtaking. I flew a drone around and took some nice aerial pictures before we started our descent. I was pretty much overtaking all locals on the trail as they were walking so damn slowly.
The guide can be booked via WhatsApp. Phone numbers are available on the website HERE. As of May 2024, the price is 155 RM if you are going solo.
Maragang HillThe view from Maragang Hill
Sosodikon Hill
Good and both cheaper and easier alternative to Maragang Hill. The entrance ticket costs 10 RM per person for foreigners. It is a very short 1 km return trail with spectacular views of Mount Kinabalu on a clear day. Come early in the morning!
Aerial view os Sosodikon Hill
Last POW Camp Memorial
The Japanese occupiers of Sabah in 1945 forced 641 British and 1793 Australian prisoners of war to march from Sandakan to Ranau. Only six people made it out alive by hiding and getting looked after by locals. The rest died as a result of disease, arduous labour, unfavourable living conditions, or were slain by their captors. The 183 men who perished at this final camp, which was located next to a bend in the Kagibangan River that can be seen below, are listed on the memorial stone. The place is located 6 km away from Ranau.
Poring Hot Spring
The site is made up of about a dozen little pools that are heated by sulfurous water that emerges from an underground spring. The best thing that adventurous people can do here is the hike to Langanan Waterfall, which takes about 2 hours one way. Make sure that you start the hike before noon, as later the entry isn’t allowed.
Another nice activity is climbing up to the canopy walkway, suspended from trees and reaching up to 40 meters above the jungle floor, offering breathtaking views of the surrounding forest.
There is also a butterfly and orchid garden. The problem is that the ticket price to the park is quite steep: 50 RM for foreigners and then you need to pay extra for each activity inside, such as hot springs or canopy walkway (10 RM). The business model of a tourist trap!
Mahua Waterfall
The waterfall is located about 500 meters from the entrance. The water is cold and clear. The entry costs 20 RM for adult foreigners and RM12 for children. There is a BBQ area, tables and chairs. It’s about 1-hour drive following route 500 from Ranau.
The three remote islands known as the Mantanani Islands are situated northwest of Kota Belud, a town roughly an hour and a half drive from Kota Kinabalu, the state capital of Sabah. Depending on the state of the sea, the speedboat voyage from the mainland to these islands takes about 60 minutes. The islands are a great place to go snorkelling, scuba diving, or island hopping because of their beautiful, white sand beaches surrounded by coconut palm trees, and their clear, blue waters that are home to a variety of marine life. The unique dugong, or sea cow, lives in the water there but sightings are not guaranteed as these mammals are very shy and will distance themselves, especially with the sight of crowds.
How to get to Mantanani Island?
The transfer to the island is included in the package for the day trip. If you decide to stay there longer than a day, your resort will organize a transfer for you as well.
The transfer includes the bus or minivan from your hotel in Kota Kinabalu to Kota Belud Jetty and then a speedboat further to Mentanani Island.
Several operators organize tours to the islands. I chose the offer of Borneo Calling as the price was attractive: 260 RM. Amazing Borneo is a bit more expensive and the tour costs about 340 RM. I didn’t see any differences in the itinerary.
When to go?
Tours to Mantanani Island are available the whole year, but the best time to visit is between February and April, during the dry season. The weather during these months is generally more favourable with less rainfall, making it easier to enjoy outdoor activities.
How long should you stay?
One day is enough to relax on the beach and do some snorkelling. However, during the day it is incredibly hot so most probably you will want to spend the time in the shade. Staying overnight is a great idea, as you can enjoy the magnificent sunset and sunrise and the calmness of the island once day trippers leave.
Mantanani Island
Where to stay?
I haven’t spent the night on the island itself, but based myself in Kota Kinabalu and did a day trip from there. I can recommend three places to stay there: ATAP Hotel, Hotel Tourist by HotSpot Essential and Akinabalu Youth Hostel. All of them were affordable and offered a nice and clean private room.
How to get around?
The island is small so you will need nothing else but your legs!
A day trip itinerary
I was met by a minibus driver punctually at 7:30 AM and then we made a loop around the town, picking up a few more tourists. The drive to the jetty in the Kota Belud district took approximately 1.5 hours with a short toilet break halfway. The further speedboat ride took about 60 minutes. The sea conditions were good so it wasn’t too bumpy.
Once we arrived at the island, we were taken to Lovely Mantanani Beach Club. We left our bags there, had a drink and went back to the speedboat to start our snorkelling adventure. The two spots were fine and we could see some colourful fish but definitely, it wasn’t as good as it was in Semporna.
The lunch was served at around 12:30 PM. The food was tasty and plentiful, even though I expected a buffet. After lunch, we were free to take a walk on the white sandy beach, enjoy the kayaks or simply relax in the shade. I used the opportunity to fly a drone, after previously asking the guide if it was allowed as I noticed a small police station nearby.
We departed back to Kota Belud Jetty at around 3 PM. There were dark clouds on the horizon and I was sure we would be caught by heavy rain. Miraculously, we weren’t. But as soon as we changed to the minivan and started driving back to Kota Kinabalu, the heavens got wild and it was pouring almost the whole way. I was back to my hotel at about 6 PM.
Overall, it was a well-organized tour of the beautiful island, but next time I would consider staying overnight to get the full experience. Waking up in such isolated places is always unique.
Included in the tour package are: transportation, lunch, water, and snorkeling equipment.
Tawau is situated on the southeast coast of Sabah, bordered by the Celebes Sea. It is close to the borders with Indonesia’s Kalimantan region and the Philippines.
The area was originally inhabited by indigenous groups and later became a part of the Sultanate of Sulu. In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, Tawau came under British control as part of North Borneo. It developed as a trading port, exporting agricultural products like rubber and tobacco.
During World War II, Tawau was occupied by Japanese forces. Post-war, it continued to grow as a key town in Sabah and a major agricultural hub, known for its palm oil plantations, cocoa, and rubber.
Tawau is a gateway to several natural attractions, including Tawau Hills Park, known for its hot springs, waterfalls, and diverse flora and fauna. The park is a popular spot for hiking and nature exploration.
How to get to Tawau?
By Air
Several airlines operate flights to Tawau Airport (TAW), including Malaysia Airlines and AirAsia, with direct flights available from Kota Kinabalu (the capital of Sabah) and Kuala Lumpur (the capital of Malaysia).
By Land
Bus services are from Kota Kinabalu to Tawau but be prepared for a very long journey (most probably over 10 hours).
Some ferries connect Tawau with Nunukan and Tarakan in Indonesian Borneo. The ferry services are less frequent, so checking the schedule in advance is important.
When to go?
The best time to visit the Tawau is during the dry season, which typically falls between March and October. The weather during these months is generally more favourable with less rainfall, making it easier to explore the rainforest (the trails are less muddy) and enjoy outdoor activities.
Where to stay?
I can recommend staying at Kingston Executive Hotel. It is well-located, close to plenty of restaurants and shops. The room was clean and really spacious!
How long to stay?
Tawau doesn’t have much to offer but you can easily spend a day visiting Tawau Hills Park. It’s also possible to arrange a multiday trekking there.
What to do in Tawau?
Tawau Hills Park
The third biggest city in Sabah doesn’t have much to offer and a walk at the waterfront at Traulsen Recreation Park is the best what you can do. Most people come here for Tawau Hills Park is a great and much cheaper alternative to Danum Valley or Maliau Basin. This 280 square kilometre natural reserve is made up of lowland rainforest, with hills covered with vegetation rising sharply from the plain below.
The park is great for day and night walks, and bird watching. Just a short walk from the reception, you will find a river with picnic tables and a scenic Table Waterfall a bit further. It isn’t accessible for swimming but you can get some nice shots from a viewing platform.
Bombalai Hill (530m) is just a short, thirty-minute trek through the jungle. Views of Tawau town, cocoa and palm oil farms, and the Sulawesi Sea stretching out in the distance may be seen from the top.
Follow clearly marked main trail which can bring you to several locations: Botanical Garden, The World’s Tallest Tropical Tree, Bukit Gelas Falls and Hot Springs.
The Botanical Garden is home to the variety of plant life found within the park, especially ferns, different species of orchids and begonia. The Elephant Ear Orchid is endemic only in Borneo and in Sabah it can be found only in Tawau Hills Park and Tenom.
Continue walking past the Botanical Garden and turn left on the crossroad. The path will take you to the World’s Tallest Tropical Tree. According to the description, it is 88 meters tall.
Come back the same way and turn left. A walk along the Sungai Tawau ends at Bukit Gelas Falls, which is lovely and worth a plunge. It is 2.4 km from the Park Reception. Enroute, you may also spot another trail, climbing steeply up but you should not proceed there without prior preparation.
It is the most challenging 14-kilometer trail in the park leading to Mount Magdalena, the highest peak in Tawau Hills Park (1280 meters). The stroll winds through lower montane and lowland forests. It is advised to take three days to complete the climb. There’s a hostel at km 10. Prior to your climb, you should get a climbing permit and a guide from the office of Sabah Parks. Mount Lucia (1240 meters) and Mount Maria (1020 meters) can be climbed during the same trip.
On the way back from Bukit Gelas Falls, you will certainly notice a bridge over the river. If you cross it and follow the trail, you will end up in a hot spring with sulfur.
Costs
The general entrance to the park costs 20 RM for international visitors and 6 RM for Malaysians.
If you decide to climb Mount Magdalena, Mount Lucia or Mount Maria, you will need to plan at least two days and get a permit and a guide. The permit costs 50 RM for one peak and 150 RM for multiple peaks per person for international hikers. Malaysians will pay 25 RM for one peak and 65 RM for multiple peaks.
Hiring a mountain guide costs 150 RM per day and you can share the cost among the group of 3 people. Additionally, you will need to pay 7 RM per person per day for insurance and something extra for the hostel.
Park opening hours are from 8 AM to 4 PM (Monday – Friday) and 7:30 AM to 3:30 PM (Saturday – Sunday and public holidays).
How to get there?
From the centre of Tawau, the easiest way is the get a ride using ride hailing app – Grab. Most likely drivers will ask for some extra payment in cash as the park is out of town. It also makes sense to note down the phone number of the driver, so you can text him to come over and pick you up in the afternoon. Tawau Hills Park is in the zone out of Grab coverage. Otherwise, you will need to try your luck hitchhiking as there is no public transport.
The Kinabatangan River, located in Sabah, Malaysian Borneo, is the second longest river in Malaysia, stretching approximately 560 kilometres from its headwaters in the mountains to its mouth at the Sulu Sea. This river is renowned for its incredible biodiversity and rich ecosystems, making it a prime destination for nature lovers and wildlife enthusiasts.
The river and its surrounding floodplain are home to a wide array of wildlife, including some of Borneo’s most iconic species such as orangutans, pygmy elephants, proboscis monkeys, and a diverse range of bird species. The region also supports various reptiles, amphibians, and plant species, contributing to its status as a biodiversity hotspot.
How to get to Kinabatangan River?
Getting to Kinabatangan typically involves travelling to Sandakan, a city in the Malaysian state of Sabah on the island of Borneo. From there, most people decide to join an organized tour including accommodation, food and activities around the river. The recommended duration is 3 days and 2 nights.
By Air
Several airlines operate flights to Sandakan, including Malaysia Airlines and AirAsia, with direct flights available from Kota Kinabalu (the capital of Sabah) and Kuala Lumpur (the capital of Malaysia).
By Land
There are bus services from Kota Kinabalu to Sandakan passing through Kundasang and Sepilok. The journey takes about 6-8 hours.
The best time to visit the Kinabatangan River is during the dry season, which typically falls between March and October. The weather during these months is generally more favourable with less rainfall, making it easier to explore the rainforest (the trails are less muddy) and enjoy outdoor activities. The animals are also more likely to come to the river to drink water. This increases the chances of seeing orangutans, pygmy elephants, proboscis monkeys, and a variety of bird species.
How long to stay?
Most tour operators recommend the package of 3 days and 2 nights and I also think it’s an optimal option. One day shorter would feel like not enough and you will be missing out on some activities such as jungle walks but I also didn’t feel like I would like to extend it for another night.
The tour with Uncle Tan Wildlife Adventures
There is a variety of operators offering similar packages and itineraries but what is different is the quality of accommodation and food. I selected the offer of Uncle Tan Wildlife Adventures (3D 2N) and will describe my experiences and impressions with them. It isn’t a resort with nice bungalows and all that, but this is exactly why I made my choice to stay there.
On the way to the camp
Prices
The price for the standard 3D/2N trip is 572.40 RM per person. Extended stay is possible at the price of 172.80 RM per person per extra day.
The price for the 2D/1N trip is 399.60 RM per person.
Children who are 7 years old and below are given discounted prices:
The 3D/2N trip children’s price is 286.20 RM.
The 2D/1N trip children’s price is 199.80 RM.
Children who are 2 years old and below stay for free.
The above-mentioned prices are from May 2024. Please always double-check them with Uncle Tan Wildlife Adventures directly.
A crocodile at the riverbank
Transport
The meeting point is at the Orangutan Centre in Sepilok and the price covers transportation by van to and from the Kinabatangan River, transportation by boat to and from the camp and all river Safaris.
You need to get on your own to Sepilok and pay extra in case you don’t come back there after the tour but continue your travel towards Semporna.
Accommodation
At Camp, lodging is provided in elevated huts. A lightweight mattress and mosquito net will be provided. Every hut is shared by a few people so don’t expect privacy.
Accommodation in wooden huts
Food
All meals are cooked on-site and included in the tour package. These are served as a buffet. Tea and coffee are available all day and bottled drinking water and fizzy drinks are sold by their staff co-operative.
Bathing and toilet
Water for bathing and washing is pumped from the river to the bathhouse. Swimming in the river is not possible due to the presence of crocodiles. There are two toilets provided in two different areas of the camp and you can get toilet paper from the reception. Don’t forget to bring it back afterwards as otherwise it will be stolen by monkeys.
Electricity and mobile signal
They use a small generator for lighting and charging of batteries from 7.00 PM till midnight. I had a Digi SIM card in my smartphone and the signal was very weak in the common hut and slightly better closer to the riverbank.
3 days 2 nights itinerary
Day One
I was met near the Orangutan Center by the representative of the tour operator at 1 PM. Soon, more participants arrived and we were briefed about the plan for the rest of the day.
We were taken in a minibus to the Bukit Garam jetty at the Kinabatangan River from where we continued the journey to the camp by boat. We could spot quite many crocodiles on the way. Upon arrival at about 5 PM, we were greeted with tea and coffee and then allocated the open-air huts, where we could find only mattresses and mosquito nets. Simple, but enough 🙂
The dinner was served in the form of a buffet at 8 PM but before that, we met the rest of the staff working at the camp. They explained to us the detailed plan for the remaining time at the camp.
On that day we had one more attraction left: a night river safari which started about 9 PM. We didn’t see much though, just some birds and owls.
The night was really hot and I was sweating even lying down in the open-air hut.
Day Two
The day started at 6:30 AM with an early morning safari. Tea and coffee were available in the common area. We boarded the boats and took the same route as the night before. Again we didn’t see that much. Mostly monkeys.
Then, we came back to have breakfast and shortly after we played some volleyball. It was really fun even though the humidity was insane!
After that, it was a time for jungle walk. It was a really short one but luckily we were able to see one orangutan sitting high on the tree. Another cool thing to see was the spider which blended perfectly well with the color of the tree that it was sitting on.
The only orangutan that we saw during the tourWhat a camouflage!
Once the walk was finished, I flew a drone and discovered a very sad view. The area around the river is one huge palm oil plantation. I wasn’t surprised that we couldn’t see that much wildlife and that we always went on river safari to the same place. It was just the only relatively forested place left.
Flying over the Kinabatangan River
After lunch, we had a few hours of free time but we were also offered to join an extra activity: a fishing trip (paid extra: 60 RM per person). I decided to go for it as I don’t like sitting in one place doing nothing and I didn’t have much experience with fishing so wanted to learn something new. Unfortunately, we were caught by some rain but that is how it is in Borneo. You never know when you will get wet 🙂
I managed to catch 4 or 5 small catfish, but my fishing rod got stuck many times in shallow waters. Anyway, I was happy to join this activity and would recommend you to do the same. I will for sure repeat fishing one day!
In the afternoon we went to the third river safari and again it was to the same place. We mostly saw different kinds of monkeys and once it was already after sunset, then plenty of huge bats (flying foxes) could be spotted in the sky. Impressive and very memorable view!
Proboscis monkeyProboscis monkey
After dinner, we went for a night walk and saw some spiders, frogs and bugs. The guide was trying hard which was appreciated but unfortunately, we couldn’t find slow loris or tarsier.
Day three
We had breakfast and then it was time to pack our bags and board the boat back to the jetty. There, we split into two vans – one going back to Sandakan and another one heading towards Lahad Datu. Those heading to Lahad Datu, including me, had to pay extra for the transport (50 RM per person).
2 days 1 night itinerary
You will do a night boat ride on the day you arrive at the camp and a morning boat ride the next day. After breakfast, you will leave the camp at about 10 AM.
General impressions
I’m glad I decided to join the tour with Uncle Tan and I cannot say a bad word about the organization as everything went according to plan and the staff working at the camp were very friendly. However, I wouldn’t repeat it.
The reason is very simple. I was quite shocked to see the destruction of the area and deforestation in favour of palm oil plantations. Don’t expect to see some wonderful wild areas full of animals. There is a thin line of trees along the river but you can see through it. And everything beyond is nothing more than palm oil plantations. Some years ago it must have been a wonderful place, now it’s just the skeleton left…
El Caminito del Rey, located in the province of Malaga, is a breathtaking and exhilarating footpath that winds its way through the stunning El Chorro Gorge. Known as the “King’s Little Pathway”, it offers an adrenaline-pumping adventure as it clings to the sheer cliffs, suspended high above the Guadalhorce River.
Originally it was constructed for workers to access a hydroelectric power plant. The construction began in 1901 and was finished in 1905. King Alfonso XIII crossed the walkway in 1921 for the inauguration of the dam Conde del Guadalhorce, and because of that the trail became known by its present name. The original path deteriorated over the years, and there were numerous sections where part or all of the concrete top had collapsed. Few of the original handrails remained, although a safety wire ran the length of the path. Several people died on the walkway and, after two fatal accidents in 1999 and 2000, the local government closed the entrance.
The regional government of Andalusia and the local government of Malaga agreed in June 2011 to share the restoration costs of €9 million. The project took approximately three years to complete.
Today, the scenic route provides awe-inspiring views of the dramatic landscape, featuring rugged rock formations and the turquoise waters below, making it a must-visit destination for those seeking both natural beauty and a memorable outdoor experience.
How to get there?
Car
Take the A–357 motorway and go towards the MA-5403, through the Towns of Cártama, Pizarra, Carratraca, and Ardales. This route is 59.1 km long, and it takes about 50 minutes to get there.
You can park in the Visitors’ Reception Centre Parking for 2 EUR per day. There you will find the shuttle bus stop. Once you finish the hike at the Southern Access (near El Chorro), the shuttle bus will take you back to the parking. The bus ticket costs 2.50 EUR.
Train and bus
First, take a train to El Chorro – El Caminito del Rey Station. Then, change to the shuttle bus going towards the northern access point. It takes about 2 hours to get there from Malaga.
Shuttle bus trips start at 08:30 from the Southern area and operate every 30 minutes until 16:30. For the train schedule, check at the official site of RENFE.
Organized tour
In this situation, you don’t have to worry about anything. Just come to the agreed meeting point and enjoy the bus ride. As I didn’t have a car and wanted to save some time, it was my chosen option. The tour started at 8:30 AM at the pick-up point near the train station and finished at 3 PM at the same spot. I signed up for the one advertised on Get Your Guide, and the link to it is below:
The best time to visit
The trail can be visited at any time of the year. The best is to avoid summer as then it gets crowded. I visited in December and it was really nice, although the temperature was about 15C and it was windy so better to have a warmer jacket.
Tickets
You can reserve and purchase your ticket through this website or directly at the northern access of the Caminito, at the ticket office. Booking in advance is highly recommended at any time of the year as the number of tickets is limited. Guided visits cost 18 EUR and general entry tickets cost 10 EUR.
The guided tours from Malaga cost about 50 EUR and include transportation, entrance tickets and a guide.
Beautiful panorama at the beginning of the trail
Opening hours
El Caminito del Rey is open from Tuesday to Sunday, except December 24th, 25th, 31st and January 1st.
Trail details
El Caminito del Rey is a one-way trail and you must start at the northern access point. According to me, the difficulty of the path is easy as it mainly descends although there are both uphill and downhill parts.
The full length of the path is 7.7 km, of which 4.9 km are accessways and 2.9 km is the boardwalk. Covering that distance can take between 2 to 4 hours, depending on your pace. Don’t rush though, as the views are worth taking it slowly.
Once you arrive at Bar Restaurante El Kiosko, you must decide which access trail you want. The first option is a 2.7 km long trail of Gaitanejo. The second option is 1.5 km long as it takes a shortcut through the pedestrian tunnel. Both trails arrive at the Northern Access Control Booth which is the official start of the Caminito del Rey.
The tour
As mentioned before, I opted for a guided tour starting from Malaga. The meeting point was near the train station and pick-up time was scheduled for 8:30 AM. We left on time and soon received a warm welcome from our two guides: Violetta and Christian.
After about an hour, we arrived at the parking where the bus stopped for a toilet break. From there, it was another a few minutes drive to the start of the hike. As we exited the bus, everyone got a small bottle of water.
We took the access road that goes through the pedestrian tunnel. After the tunnel and the bridge, we turned around to watch the interesting rock formation consisting mainly of four huge hollows.
One of the first tunnelsHuge hollows in the rocks
Soon, we arrived at the reception booth, located near the Gaitanejo Hydroelectric Power Station, which is one of the oldest in Spain. There is where we got the helmets.
As we progressed, our guide pointed out another interesting sight – the remains of troglodytic houses which were made using the softness and hollowness of sandstone for their construction. They were living places for people involved in shepherding and agriculture, but also for dam construction workers and workers of El Caminito.
Remains of old housesWe continued the hike, already with helmets
The rocky wall further ahead where commemorative plaques hang, marks the water level reached on different historical floods caused by strong storms. On the right-hand side, you will find an information panel about the history of El Caminito del Rey, after which you will enter the boardwalk leading into the Gaitanejo Gorge. The distance from wall to wall is less than 10 meters and it’s pretty deep too. Impressive!
We continued strolling on the boardwalk passing through another small tunnel. Alternatively, you can go around it if you wish. A bit further on there is the bridge which was crossed by King Alfonso the 13th in 1921.
We were also able to spot some wildlife!
The most impressive parts of the trail were still ahead of us though. The tall rocky mass of San Cristobal’s Mountain towers above the boardwalk and is just breathtaking.
The Glass Balcony that stands on the rocky buttress is a vertigo test for many and it allows one to fully admire the vastness of the canyon. This was my favourite section of the hike. And there was another highlight just in front – the Hanging Bridge!
The last section of the boardwalk is just amazing!
The metallic boardwalk hangs 105 meters above the ground and is 35 meters long. Luckily, it isn’t too shaky even in strong winds so I was able to cross it comfortably, even though I am normally not so easygoing with heights.
The highlight of the hike – Hanging Bridge!Luckily the construction is very stable even in strong winds!Don’t look down 🙂
The last part of the trail goes down following the stairs and after you exit through the gate, it’s a wide path. We passed by the Chapel School also called ‘Ermita de la Medalla de la Milagrosa’. It was built by Rafael Benjumea, as well as other buildings in the village nearby for the children of technicians and workmen and later on for the workers of the Station Salto del Chorro.
Shortly after, we reached the place with chairs and tables as well as small boots serving food and drink. It was the end of El Caminito del Rey!
I was perfectly satisfied with the guided tour. The guides were amiable and explained everything in two languages: Spanish and English. There was no pressure to walk faster or slower so everyone had enough time to enjoy the place and take plenty of pictures.
The Souss Massa National Park has been a natural reserve since 1991 and it covers an area of 33,800 hectares. It is located between Agadir to the north and Sidi Ifni to the south, including the landscape of the coastline, dunes, marshes and the steppes.
Over 300 plant species and over 30 fauna species can be found there, including the Oryx antelope and the Dorcas gazelle, as well as foxes and wild cats. Moreover, the Souss Massa Natural Park is home to the world’s largest colony of Bald Ibis and the wetlands act as a stopover for many other migratory birds.
When to go?
The climate on the Moroccan coast is enjoyable for most of the year. The best time to visit Souss-Massa National Park is spring (March to May) and fall (September to November) when the weather is ideal. In summer it can get extremely hot and December is the wettest month, although it doesn’t rain too much anyway. I visited the park at the beginning of October and it was simply perfect!
How to get there?
There are two entrances: one called Rokein Reserve, located near Takate and Ihchach, about 20 km from Agadir and the second one called Ourais Reserve, located near Sidi Binzarne, about 65 km from Agadir.
The easiest way to explore the park is with a rental car. It gives you full flexibility to organize the day as you like and it will also be the cheapest option. You can get a good vehicle for 25 – 40 EUR per day while an organized day trip costs about 70-80 EUR per person.
I recommend using the service of Click’n’Go Car Rental. Very friendly guys and easy to contact on WhatsApp. I ended up renting a Renault Clio for the whole month and got a nice price. For visiting Souss-Massa National Park any car is fine and you don’t need a 4×4 unless you really want to do some off-roading.
If you don’t want to drive, the only option is to join an organized tour. Most hotels will be able to get you in touch with travel agents or do your research online.
How much time should you plan?
Visiting all three major sites: Rokein Reserve, Tifnit and Ourais takes the whole day. After that, return to Agadir or spend the night in Tiznit, which is worth discovering too.
Where to stay?
In Agadir, I spent a few nights in Hotel Lynx. It’s not a resort but I wasn’t looking for one. The receptionist was very friendly, the room was spacious and comfortable and there was a small balcony too. Breakfast was not included but there are lots of restaurants all around so it wasn’t a big deal.
In Tiznit, I recommend Hotel Amoudou, located very close to the medina.
Rokein Reserve
Upon arrival, I was greeted by a staff member who explained two options for visiting a park. The first was a shorter loop dedicated to hikers (3 km), and the second was much longer and involved driving your car with a guide. Of course, I decided on the longer one as I had a car and I wanted to explore more remote sections of the part. The ticket cost me 150 MAD. The guide hopped inside the car and we started our mini safari in a Clio 🙂
The guide spoke limited English so I couldn’t learn too much but we had some basic conversation and he was pointing out the animals that we were passing by. Mostly there were gazelles, ostriches, onyxes and some birds. It made me want to do some big safari in Africa soon! We left the car several times and walked to the observation points. One of them was particularly nice, with a large number of animals resting or grazing. According to my guide, they often gather there as it’s closer to the ocean and as a result, more windy and cooler.
Tifnit
Next, I went to see Tifnit, a fishing village with houses packed between the beach and the cliff. I walked along the coast and saw some cave dwellings, that probably used to be occupied by fishermen but at that time they rather looked abandoned.
Ourais Reserve
Another entrance to Souss-Massa National Park is located near Sidi Binzarne. The entrance doesn’t cost anything but I am sure you will be offered a service of a guide as soon as you park your car. There is no need for that as the way is very easy to follow, the question is if you can say no 🙂 If you decide to take one, it will cost you about 200 MAD but feel free to negotiate. The hiking trail goes along the river (Oued Massa) towards the beach with huge dunes and is about 10 kilometres long. Keep an eye out for some birds. On the day of my visit, the fog was hanging over the ocean, creating a mysterious atmosphere.
Once you reach the ocean, turn right and walk along the beach towards cave dwellings. On your rights, you will pass by a fancy hotel: Ksar Massa. If you want to check out the cave dwellings inside, approach one of the fishermen hanging out in front of it and I’m sure they will let you have a look for a few dirhams. I must say, observing how people live and how different those lifestyles are is one of the most memorable of my travel experiences.
Take the concrete pavement climbing up and start the way back, this time following the cliff edge. The wide sandy road will take you back to the trail along Oued Massa which you already walked before. Follow it again to return to the parking.
Summary
All in all, this was a day well spent and I truly enjoyed my time in the national park. It’s a great place to visit for those staying in Agadir, who want to escape the big city, see the magnificent Atlantic coast and hopefully spot some wild animals.
