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Milford Track, New Zealand
In Advices

New Zealand’s Great Walks: What to pack?

Introduction

Hiking 1 of 10 New Zealand’s Great walks will bring you close to the best thing this country has to offer. Its nature. But be warned! It’s addictive and most likely the first of your Great Walks won’t be the last. Many people get pulled in by the idea and complete them all. So did I.

It’s a perfect opportunity for beginners in multi-day hiking to test their limits. You will be away for 2-4 days having a glimpse on backcountry experience but you don’t need any hardcore survival skills. Breath-taking scenery will reward even the worst weather. And when you can be alone on a track for quite some, you will certainly meet great people on campsites and in huts.

Before you go, make sure you are well prepared and packed all the essentials!

The art of packing

Packing for long-distance hikes can be a pain, especially for beginners. In the end, we consider many items as essentials that may be useful on the way. But once it’s all packed, we quickly realize the backpack is way too heavy. Believe me, the weight of each extra item on your back will matter when you ascend another hill.

It’s hard to avoid first-timer mistakes and I did learn some lessons on my own skin as well. To be honest, with every next hike, I’m taking less and fewer things. Consider my packing list for New Zealand’s Great Walks but also observe and learn from your own experience.

The list describes the suggested equipment for Great Walks in the summer season. Needless to say, equipment is necessary for harsh winter conditions.

Routeburn Track, New Zealand
Routeburn Track

Food

There is nothing that you can buy on the track, therefore whatever you take you with, it needs to last for the entire duration of the hike. To be on the safe side, it’s even recommended to take a supply for an extra day, in case of an unexpected injury or difficult weather conditions.

After a long day of the walk, you want to set up your tent and eat something warm as soon as possible. Prepare high-energy value meal that you can easily heat up. Freeze-dried food is a good idea as it just requires boiling the water, but it’s expensive.

For the first hikes, I used the food produced by Backcountry Cousine. The selection is really big and the meals are tasty but to be honest, I had to buy the bigger pack with a portion for 2 people to be really full. A meal costs around 10-15 NZD.

Whatever you take, the rule is simple. Eat the heaviest stuff first and keep the lightweight meals for last days.

Abel Tasman Track, New Zealand

Breakfast:

  • Bread
    with jam, honey or peanut butter
  • Instant
    cereal with fruits or porridge
  • Biscuits
    with jam
  • Powdered
    milk
  • Banana
  • Tea
    or coffee

Lunch:

  • Bread
  • Cheese
  • Salami
  • Humous
  • Ready to eat sausages
  • Instant soup
  • Nuts and dried fruits
  • Tea or coffee

Dinner:

  • Instant rice or pasta
  • Tinned tuna or chicken
  • Instant soup
  • Freeze-dried meal
  • Tea or coffee

Snacks:

  • Chocolate
  • Muesli bars
  • Biscuits
  • Nuts
  • Frooze Balls

Equipment

Only if you camp:

For campsites and huts:

  • Backpack with a waterproof cover
    40-60L should be enough for a multiday hike.
  • Waterproof bag
    Used as extra protection inside your backpack to put electronics and spare clothes inside.
  • Sleeping bag
    It can get cold no matter what time of the year so 3-4 seasons sleeping bag would be perfect. In mid of February, the temperature on Kepler Track dropped to 2C in the night so I was happy my sleeping bag comfort rating was 0C. It’s much warmer if you sleep in a hut, though you still need a sleeping bag as there are only bunk beds with mattresses.
  • Drinking bottle 1-1.5 L
    Water is always available next to the huts and campsites. It’s rainwater, fine for drinking without treatment. If you have doubts, boil it first or use the Sawyer water filter.
  • Cooking pot
    I’m using MSR PocketRocket 2 Mini Stove Kit which proved to be great size and quality.
  • Gas stove
    Sometimes provided in huts, check in advance.
  • Fuel
    Sometimes provided in huts, check in advance.
  • Plastic cutlery
  • Cup
  • Sharp survival knife
  • Cleaning set
  • Matches / lighter
  • Light camera or phone with a camera
  • Power bank / spare camera battery
  • Bin bags
    Whatever you bring in to the national park, you have to bring it out and throw away when you reach civilization.
  • Hut/campsite tickets
    These have to be picked up at DOC visitor centre before you depart.
  • Map
    Can be found at DOC visitor centre as well.
  • Earplugs
    Useful especially in bunkrooms in huts.
Kepler Track, New Zealand
Kepler Track

Clothing

It rains quite often in New Zealand, therefore you need to be prepared for changing weather conditions. Not to mention the fact that in February I experienced snow on Kepler Track. Warms and waterproof clothes are essential to increase your comfort on the trail.

  • Boots that are comfortable and well broken in
    Shoes are the most important element of your clothing, especially when hiking in the mountains with a heavy backpack. Your comfort and safety depend on them. Make sure that they are top-class shoes that you trust. For all Great Walks, I used La Sportiva TX5. Even though it took quite a while to break them in, they are extremely light, comfortable and provide great stabilization for my feet.
  • Raincoat with hood
  • Trousers
  • Waterproof over trousers
  • Jumper or sweater
    For cold mornings and evening or even for sleeping in case your sleeping bag is not warm enough.
  • T-shirt (at least 2)
  • Long sleeve shirt
  • Pair of thermals
  • Shorts
  • Buff
    It’s light and can be worn on the head, neck or wrist.
  • Flip flops / lightweight shoes for a campsite
    You will want to let your feet rest from heavy boots and feel more comfortable while hanging around campsite or hut.
  • Hiking socks
    I recommend taking an extra pair. Nothing is worse than wet feet.
  • Underwear
  • Hat
  • Gloves
    Rather for mountain tracks only.
  • Swimwear
    May be useful especially on Abel Tasman Track or Rakiura Track.
  • Extra clothes for sleeping
  • Sunglasses

Toiletries

  • Toothpaste
  • Toothbrush
  • Wet tissues
  • Toilet paper
  • Hand sanitizer
  • Soap
    There are usually sinks with rainwater next to the huts so you can use them for basic needs.
  • Small quick-dry towel
    May be useful especially on Abel Tasman Track or Rakiura Track.

Safety

  • Flashlight (headlight is the best)
  • Spare batteries
  • First aid incl. antiseptic, pain killers, bandages, blisters kit, personal meds
  • Insect repellent
  • Sunscreen
  • Spare matches / lighter in a waterproof container
  • Spare set of warm clothes
  • Whistle
  • Personal documents (ID, passport) in a waterproof bag

I wouldn’t say that personal locator beacon is really needed on Great Walks. The trail is well marked and it would be difficult to get lost. Before you go, just tell someone about your plans and how long you plan to be on a trail.

Milford Track, New Zealand

Do you have your favourite items that you take with you on multiday hikes? Let me know in the comments!

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Woliński Park Narodowy
In Europe

Guide to Międzyzdroje & Woliński National Park

Introduction

Trip to Gryfino to the Włóczykij Travel Festival was also my first visit to the West Pomeranian Voivodeship. I have never travelled too much around Poland. This time, covering nearly 400 kilometres one way, I decided to take the opportunity to explore the area: Szczecin, Świnoujście, as well as Międzyzdroje and Woliński National Park, to which I will devote this article.

Międzyzdroje

A seaside town located on the island of Wolin in the northwestern part of the country. The island is surrounded by the waters of the Baltic Sea, the Szczecin Lagoon and the rivers Dziwna and Świna. Very popular among tourists, especially in the summer.

Until the turn of the 19th and 20th century, Międzyzdroje was a small fishing village. At that time, however, the first spa facilities began to appear, bringing more and more tourists and patients.

In February life goes on slowly. Booths with waffles, ice cream, fries, casseroles and everything else that tourists like the most are still closed and waiting for the beginning of the season. I pass many attractions that are focused on families with children: Wax Museum, Miniature Park, 7D Cinema, Labyrinth of Mirrors, Planetarium. They often look quite kitschy and they probably are. I am seriously wondering if I would like to be here this summer.

Beach

The most interesting attraction in the city is the wide beach, perfect for long walks. The more to the east, the higher the cliffs towering above it, overgrown by forests belonging to the Wolin National Park.

Plaża w Międzyzdrojach

Pier

I have no idea what is exciting about a walk on the pier. Maybe because I have access to it every day in Gdańsk. In Międzyzdroje, the first wooden bridge was built in 1885. It was repeatedly destroyed by the sea and warfare. Currently, the pier is 395 meters long and after expansion in 2004, it is also a marina for cruise ships. Its concrete construction, however, gives a rather gloomy impression. Souvenir stalls and pubs reign before the entrance.

Molo w Międzyzdrojach
Molo w Międzyzdrojach

Aquarium

A three-level, modern facility near the entrance to the pier, commissioned in 2019. Tourists can admire, among others sharks, rays, octopus, jellyfish and eels and go through a 16-meter glass half-tunnel. Opinions about this place are mixed, especially when it comes to the ratio of the size of the place to the price. A normal ticket costs as much as 45 PLN, a reduced ticket 35 PLN.

Promenade of stars

The first palm prints were made in 1996 on the occasion of the Festival of Stars. They were submitted by artists such as Beata Tyszkiewicz, Krystyna Janda, Maja Komorowska, Bogusław Linda, Daniel Olbrychski, Janusz Gajos, Jarosław Jakimowicz, Zbigniew Zamachowski and Zbigniew Preiser. Today in Międzyzdroje there are already over 100 handprints of more or less distinguished representatives of Polish culture.

Międzyzdroje

Woliński National Park

Definitely the most interesting part of my stay in Międzyzdroje and surroundings. The national park was created in 1960 and is located on the largest Polish island – Wolin. The most attractive places in the park are the cliff coast, the Świna delta and the lakes. The park covers 10.937 hectares and it is a very pleasant area for long walks.

Woliński Park Narodowy

Mount Gosań

The highest cliff of the Polish coast (93 m a.s.l.) located about 4 kilometres from Międzyzdroje. It’s best to get there on foot, but you can also park the car park 600 meters away from the viewpoint.

Museum of Woliński National Park

5 exhibition halls with dioramas depicting flora and fauna occurring in the national park. A normal ticket costs PLN 7, a reduced ticket PLN 5.

Zielonka Hill

A short walk from the parking lot rewards tourists with the beautiful panorama of the Szczecin Lagoon, the backwaters of the Reversed Delta of Świna and the waters of the Wicko Wielkie Lake. Visible islands are mainly wetlands and close to 150 species of birds nest in their area. They were created as a result of moving sand and mules through the reverse current of the river during strong winds blowing from the north.

Turquoise Lake

Located about 6 km from Międzyzdroje, it is the remains of a chalk mine that operated until 1954. Because of the white chalky bottom and the light reflection, it has a unique green colour.

Mount Kawcza

The vantage point rising 56.9 m a.s.l. is a popular destination for walks in Międzyzdroje. It offers a view of the city, pier and of course the waters of the Baltic Sea. It’s best to get there along the black trail departing from Campingowa Street and return along the beach along the red trail (about 1.5 km in total).

Kikut Lighthouse

Located on the red trail, about 11 km from Międzyzdroje. The lighthouse is fully automated and inaccessible to visitors.

Bisons Show Farm

The resort is located in a forest, on a green walking trail, about 1.5 km from the city centre. The main attraction is, of course, bison. In addition, you can also see deer, roe deer, wild boars and white-tailed eagles. A normal ticket costs PLN 7, a reduced ticket PLN 5.

Woliński Park Narodowy
Woliński Park Narodowy
Woliński Park Narodowy
Woliński Park Narodowy

Walking trails

Woliński Park Narodowy
wolinpn.pl

The map can be downloaded from the national park website.

Blue trail (26 km) – National Park office – V3 weapon position – Turquoise Lake – Zielonka Hill – Lubin church – Wolinian oak – Karnocice – Dargobądź – Mokrzyca Mała – Wolin

I walked a fragment of the trail from the church in Lubin to the Wolinian oak. It’s about an hour journey through the forest (there and back). On the way in the distance, I saw an animal running across the road, looking like a small wild boar but it quickly disappeared behind the trees.

Wolinian Oak is one of the oldest trees in the Woliński National Park and its age is estimated between 450 and 750 years.

Woliński Park Narodowy
Woliński Park Narodowy
Woliński Park Narodowy

Red trail (19 km): National Park office – beach – Mount Kawcza – beach – Kikut Lighthouse – Kaprowo Lake – Kołczewo

Green trail (15 km): National Park office – Bisons Show Farm – Warnowo – Czajcze Lake – Kołczewo Lake – Kołczewo

I went on long, full-day trekking along the green and red trails.

First, passing the lakes Czajcze, Żółwinowskie and Kaprowo I followed the green trail to Kołczewo. From there, I hitchhiked to Wisełka, where I entered the red trail, heading back towards Międzyzdroje.

Woliński Park Narodowy
Woliński Park Narodowy
Woliński Park Narodowy
Woliński Park Narodowy
Woliński Park Narodowy
Woliński Park Narodowy

Following the red trail along the beach, the cliffs grew higher and the beach narrowed. At some point, the torn cliff blocked the way to the other side completely. I decided to go back a few hundred meters and try to go up the cliff.

Woliński Park Narodowy
Woliński Park Narodowy
Woliński Park Narodowy

Finally, I found a suitable, less steep place and continued walking towards the city. The path here was much less visible, but it was enough to follow the cliff edge. Finally, I reached Mount Gosań and not far behind it I managed to find a convenient place to descent to the beach.

Woliński Park Narodowy
Woliński Park Narodowy
Woliński Park Narodowy
Woliński Park Narodowy

The whole trip was about 24 km (7 hours).

Is it worth going on a trip to Międzyzdroje and Woliński National Park?

Yes and no. Międzyzdroje is definitely a place where I wouldn’t like to spend my holidays and see all these rather shoddy attractions in the high season. In low season, it is a quiet place with a very nice and wide beach. Just like anywhere in the world – the fewer tourists, the better. Combined with numerous hiking trails in the Woliński National Park, it’s an attractive place for a weekend getaway in the West Pomeranian Voivodeship.

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In Hiking

New Zealand’s Great Walks: Rakiura Track

Introduction

Due to limited time, most travellers focus only on visiting New Zealand’s North and South Islands, excluding the third biggest Stewart Island/Rakiura from their itineraries. At first, I didn’t plan to visit the island and hike Rakiura Track either. However, after my first Great Walk – Tongariro Northern Circuit, I totally fell in love with long-distance treks. I instantly thought I want to have them all in my collection of memories from New Zealand.

Rakiura Track is the shortest and certainly the easiest of all Great Walks. It’s a 32 km loop in the Eastern part of the island. Department of Conservation (DOC) suggests 3 days itinerary but the track can be done by an average hiker in 2 days without a problem. Some do it in 1 day, even though I don’t recommend that option as it will be extremely rushed.

The big benefit (especially when heading from Fiordland) is that Rakiura Track is the cheapest Great Walk to do and the easiest to organize. I booked the campsite just 1 day in advance which would be highly unlikely on any other Great Walk.

Stewart Island/Rakiura

Rakiura National Park

The park was established in 2002 and is made of over 80% of the island’s territory. On the track, you will encounter information boards about early Maori settlements especially around Maori Beach and Port William as well as relicts of sawmilling industry which lasted until 1931. Some parts cross the Maori land which has been shared for the public use by the courtesy of its owners.

How to get to Stewart Island?

There are 2 options to get to Stewart Island: ferry or plane.

Ferry service is operated by Stewart Island Experience. Depending on the season, it goes 2, 3 or 4 times a day. The crossing takes 1 hour and regular ticket costs 89 NZD one way or 159 NZD return. Always make a booking in advance. I didn’t and the ferry that I planned to take the next morning was fully booked. There is free parking just in front of the terminal in Bluff. The crossing can be quite bumpy, so better get your meal not before but after the arrival to Oban.

Flights are operated by Stewart Island Flights and leave Invercargill 3 times per day. It’s definitely faster (20 minutes) and more scenic way to arrive in Oban. As usually in New Zealand, it comes with the price and will hit the budget significantly with 130 NZD for a one-way ticket or 220 NZD return.

Overnight in Oban

If arriving in the afternoon, it’s worth to spend the night in Oban and start the track the next morning. Bunkers Backpackers Hostel is an excellent choice.

Clockwise or anticlockwise?

There is not much difference in which direction you start the hike. Deciding for 2 days itinerary, it’s up to you if longer and harder part should be done on the first or the second day of the hike.

If starting in the anticlockwise direction, make your way from Oban towards starting point at Lee Bay (5km). Otherwise, your starting point will be at the Fern Gully Road end (2km from Oban).

Weather

Due to its location, Stewart Island/Rakiura is exposed to even more changeable weather than the rest of New Zealand. It’s best to monitor the conditions on MetService. Strong winds and heavy rains are known on this track and can occur at any time of the year. After rains, be prepared to walk in deep mud. It’s worth dropping by to DOC office to reconfirm the weather conditions and ask for recommendations.

1,2 or 3 days?

Technically it is possible to do the track in one day, however, it would be a very long and very tough day. Start at sunrise is essential and you will finish around dusk, with not too much time for breaks along the way.

More popular versions are the ones over 2 or 3 days.

I did the track in 2 days and it was optimal time, giving the chance to have a break, take in all the sights and camp in the middle of the forest with the best chance in New Zealand to spot a kiwi in natural habitat.

3 days would be a bit too much for me, nevertheless, if you prefer to take your time, do sunbathing and picnicking on the way, then it’s a great opportunity.

Huts and campsites

The Great Walk season on Stewart Island/Rakiura begins usually at the beginning of October and lasts until the end of April. Bookings for huts and campsites are required year-round.

Booking can be done at the Department of Conservation website. Once on the island, don’t forget to drop by to DOC office in Oban to pick up the tickets and re-check weather conditions.

Both huts and campsites have pros and cos. Doing all of Great Walks, I used huts only on Milford Track and that’s because camping there is forbidden. I like to feel that I am totally independent and rely only on own supplies and equipment. Moreover, camping gives more flexibility to re-schedule the hike when the weather turns bad. Huts are rather booked out weeks in advance, especially on the most popular tracks. Camping on Rakiura Track gives you also better chance to spot the kiwi and hear all the sounds of the forest in the night.

Great Walks huts have bunk beds, mattresses, heating, toilets and cold water. Campings comes with water supply, cooking shelter, sinks and toilets.

List of huts and campsites

There are 2 huts and 3 campsites along the track. As for all Great Walks, overnight stays must be booked in advance and tickets should be picked up at DOC office in Oban before departure. As the track is the least popular of all Great Walks, there is usually no need of booking months in advance, however, do monitor the situation to avoid disappointment.

Maori Beach Campsite – besides being a grassy campsite close to the beach, it’s also the historic site where you can learn about remains of sawmill industry present on the island until 1931. It’s only a few kilometres from Oban so not many hikers stay here. There are 16 camping spots.

Port William Hut and Campsite – popular overnight stop located 8.1 kilometres from the trailhead at Lee Bay. If offers 24 bunk beds and 16 camping spots.

North Arm Hut and Campsite – from my point of view, the best place for the night on a track located only a stone’s throw away from Paterson Inlet. It offers 24 bunk beds and 16 camping spots.

Pricing

In the Great Walk season (1 October – 30 April) the prices are as follows:

Huts: 24 NZD per adult per night, 17 years old and under free (booking still required)

Campsites: 6 NZD per adult per night, 17 years old and under free (booking still required)

Outside of the season ( 1 May – 30 September), the price for a hut drops to 22 NZD. Price for campsite doesn’t change.

Track details and profile

Distance: 32 km (loop)

Time: 1-3 days

Rakiura Track elevation
www.doc.govt.nz

The track profile and other useful details can be found inside the Department of Conservation (DOC) brochure.

The following itinerary assumes 2 nights on a track which will give you plenty of time to relax, take a swim and enjoy nature. I did the track with only one overnight stay at North Arm Campsite (departing from Oban towards Lee Bay).

Stage 1 – From Lee Bay to Port William Hut and Campsite (3-4h, 8.1km)

The day at Oban started with perfect weather and I dropped by to DOC office to pick up the map and tickets for the campsite. Then I followed the road towards Lee Bay (5 kilometres). Alternatively, it’s possible to take a taxi and save the legs, but it’s a pleasant walk through the village. The chain-link sculpture at Lee Bay is the official beginning of the track and symbolizes one of the Maori legends. It’s the story of Maui, who used South Island as his canoe and Stewart Island/Rakiura as the anchor to fish the North Island.

Stewart Island/Rakiura
Stewart Island/Rakiura
Stewart Island/Rakiura

From here, the track continues along the coast to Maori Beach. It’s a perfect place for a snack and swim. The campsite is just right next to the beach and it’s much less crowded than the one at Port William, so if you like peace and silence, consider staying here overnight.

Stewart Island/Rakiura
Stewart Island/Rakiura

For me, it wasn’t the time to rest yet and I continued further across the swing bridge and then to the turn off to Port William Hut and Campsite. Even though it wasn’t my overnight stopover, I dropped my backpack in the bushes, took my lunch and went there to eat and relax. It’s 40 minutes off the main track and as it was still early hour, not too many hikers were there. Two women were chilling on the grass in front of the hut and one of them happened to be half Polish so we had a nice chat in my native language.

Stewart Island/Rakiura
Stewart Island/Rakiura

Stage 2 – From Port William Hut and Campsite to North Arm Hut and Campsite (4-6h, 13km)

The second stage became harder but not because of its steepness but rather constant need to jump over the mud. In parts, it’s necessary to get off the main track and take a detour through the bush. Honestly, it was quite a boring couple of kilometres. It’s just the path through the forest like any other in New Zealand, where the only highlights were passing by the old log hauler once used to drag trees to the gullies seeing… a stick insect.

Stewart Island/Rakiura
Stewart Island/Rakiura
Stewart Island/Rakiura

Upon arrival to North Arm Campsite, I was greeted by a Kiwi couple. We cooked our freeze-dried food made by Backcountry Cousine and had a nice chat. The guy was a real badass as in his late 50’s he finished Te Araroa Track which is 3.000 kilometres long hike from the very top of North Island to the very bottom of South Island. I really hope to follow his example when I am at his age.

I still had over an hour before the sunset and there is a nice place to relax behind the hut. Just follow the path down towards Paterson Inlet. Have a swim or just put your feet to the water and wait for the low tide to come.

Stage 3 – From North Arm Hut and Campsite to Oban (13 km)

In the morning of the next day, the weather changed significantly. It started to get windy and kiwi guy said that according to forecast, it’s gonna rain at 1 pm. I left the campsite at 7:30 am to be able to arrive in Oban before it gets wet. The easy path through the forest led me to the junction, where I took Ryan’s Creek Track for a more scenic detour to Fern Gully Carpark. It adds only around 1.5 hours to already quite an easy day.

Stewart Island/Rakiura
Stewart Island/Rakiura

From Fern Gully Carpark, which is the end of the track, it’s another 2 kilometres to Oban. I checked in again to Bunkers Backpackers Hostel and enjoyed one of the most amazing sunsets in New Zealand.

Stewart Island/Rakiura
Stewart Island/Rakiura
Stewart Island/Rakiura

Don’t miss!

Dark Sky Sanctuary & Aurora Australis

Rakiura in the Maori language means ‘the land of glowing skies’. You will understand why. Stewart Island/Rakiura is one of the International Dark Night Sanctuaries and with clear skies, it’s a spectacle on the sky. Moreover, around winter you have good chances to see Southern Lights also known as Aurora Australis.

Kiwi spotting

There are less than 40 human inhabitants of Stewart Island/Rakiura. How about kiwis? Well, the estimated population is 20.000. It makes the island the best place to see kiwis in their natural environment. To be precise, the species is the southern brown kiwi. While in other parts of New Zealand kiwis are nocturnal, on Stewart Island/Rakiura they can be also spotted in daylight!

I got lucky as well. I set an alarm for midnight, took my flashlight and went for a short walk on a track, from where I came the previous day. I was walking very slowly, focusing on all the little noises in the bushes. Suddenly, I heard something and stopped moving for at least 15 minutes. I could clearly hear the movement closer and closer. The kiwi was walking perfectly towards me, probably curious about my flashlight. I had the one with white light but the best would be using the red light mode, so it doesn’t scare the kiwis off.

Kiwi on Stewart Island/Rakiura
Kiwi on Stewart Island/Rakiura

It was quite a brave kiwi. At some point it was just at my feet, touching my shoelaces with his beak. Realizing that it’s not eatable, he continued his night journey through the forest. So did I, coming back to the tent to fell asleep completely satisfied with the night encounter.

Is it worth hiking Rakiura Track?

It’s definitely not that scenic as other Great Walks. However, there are things making up for it. Night walks in the forest in search for kiwis, spectacular sunrises and even more spectacular sunsets, dark skies and the chance to see Southern Lights. Due to the distance and advancement level, Rakiura Track is probably the best Great Walk for newbie hiker. And if you are experienced and want to go through muddy tracks even further, it’s possible to hike North West Circuit (125 km, 9-11 days) or Southern Circuit (71.5 km, 4-6 days).

Enjoy!

For questions, contact me on pinyourfootsteps@gmail.com

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Tongariro National Park, New Zealand
In Hiking

New Zealand’s Great Walks: Tongariro Northern Circuit

Introduction

Tongariro Northern Circuit was my first New Zealand’s Great Walk. It was also the first overnight hike in my life! I did camp before, but it was rather during road trips. Carrying food supplies, water, tent, sleeping bag, gas stove, cooking pot, water filter, clothes for change – all of it on my back for 2 days in volcanic landscape sounded like a challenge. What an exciting one!

Tongariro National Park

You will be hiking in one of the oldest National Parks in the world!

In 1894, Tongariro became the first National Park established in New Zealand and the fourth to become such worldwide. From 1993 it is on the World Heritage List for both Maori cultural significance and volcanic landscape. There is a wide choice of walks available in the area, suitable for all levels of fitness. Two of them are especially worth considering!

Tongariro Northern Circuit is the longer version of more popular 1-day Tongariro Alpine Crossing. It only depends on your personal preference which version you decide to hike. However, I do encourage you for longer exploration. Northern Circuit includes the most scenic part of Alpine Crossing and adds the chance to camp among active volcanoes in Taupo Volcanic Zone: Ngauruhoe, Tongariro and bit further on the horizon – Ruapehu. It gives you extra time to stop and enjoy the breathtaking scenery, an opportunity to test your limits on over 40 km track and make new friendships with all the fellow hikers that you get to meet on the way! Most likely you will also beat the crowds that start Alpine Crossing every morning from Mangatepopo Road End. And believe me, in high season is A LOT of people. You also won’t need to pay extra for the transport as it is in case of one-way Tongariro Alpine Crossing.

Do you feel encouraged?

Tongariro National Park, New Zealand

The legend has it…

Before going to Tongariro National Park, I visited the second highest volcano of New Zealand – Mount Taranaki. There is a legend that connects all the peaks in the central area of North Island. It says that both Taranaki and Tongariro were in love with Mount Pihanga and the fierce fight between them started. Tongariro won and Taranaki escaped to the west coast where he was trapped by Pouakai Ranges in the place he stands now. Taranaki is often covered in clouds, hiding the tears shed after his lost love.

Welcome to Mordor

Tongariro National Park acted as a filming location for Peter’s Jackson world-famous trilogy Lord of the Rings. Volcanic rocks and unique landscape were ideal for creating Mordor and Mount Ngauruhoe shape was digitally enhanced to make Mount Doom. Other locations include Emyn Muil (Iwikau Village at Whakapapa), Ithilien Camp (Mangawhero Falls) and scenes with Orc Army (Rangipo Desert). It’s quite cool add-on for all fans, even though sometimes you need to use your imagination to recognize the places.

Tongariro National Park, New Zealand

Clockwise or anticlockwise?

Tongariro Northern Circuit is a loop track and can be hiked in either direction. I started clockwise from Whakapapa Village towards Mangatepopo Hut and further to Oturere Campsite. In this way, I tackled more difficult part on the first day. It’s a good choice because of higher energy level at the beginning, however, you will be carrying a backpack loaded with most of your food supplies on the ascent to Red Crater. That’s also the more popular directions among hikers. I personally think that the track is so spectacular that it doesn’t matter which direction you choose.

Tongariro National Park, New Zealand

Bookings of huts and campsites

The season for Great Walks begins usually at the end of October and lasts until the end of April. In this period, bookings for huts and campsites are required. Outside of the season, they work on a first-come, first-served basis, however, please do remember that because of weather conditions the trail becomes much more difficult to tackle (avalanche risk) and experience is required.

Booking can be done at the Department of Conservation website. After a booking is done, don’t forget to drop by to DOC Office in the Whakapapa Village to pick up physical tickets and re-check weather conditions.

Both huts and campsites have pros and cos. Doing all Great Walks, I used huts only on Milford Track and that’s because camping there is forbidden. I like to feel that I am totally independent and rely only on own supplies and equipment. Moreover, camping gives more flexibility to re-schedule the hike when the weather turns bad. Huts are rather booked out weeks in advance, especially on the most popular tracks like Tongariro Norther Circuit, Milford Track, Kepler Track or Routeburn Track. The chance to postpone the adventure is small, meaning you either go in bad weather or don’t go at all.

Great Walks huts have bunk beds, mattresses, heating, toilets, basic gas cooking facilities, solar-powered lighting and cold water.

List of huts and campsites

Mangatepopo Hut and Campsite – it’s only 9.4 km from the trailhead at Whakapapa Village and unless you really want to take your time and enjoy the landscape, it’s simply not far enough to justify overnight stay.

Oturere Hut and Campsite – the most picturesque overnight stop and the only one I stayed on the track. It’s 21.4 km from the trailhead and I must say that for the last 2-3 km I was tired and couldn’t wait to reach the place. But it’s worth pushing. The clouds passing through the top of Ngauruhoe at dusk were unforgettable. It’s just next to the hut where you can use the facilities as well as have a chat with fellow hikers. It can get quite windy there and before I started to set up a tent, the ranger approached me. First, I thought that she wants to collect a ticket, but it wasn’t a case. Instead, she warned me that the day before, one of the hikers tried to set up a tent but the wind was so strong that the tent was blown away into the valley in a matter of seconds. The rather surprised hiker was forced to spend the night on the floor in a hut.

Tongariro National Park, New Zealand
Tongariro National Park, New Zealand

Waihohonu Hut and Campsite – I had a booking there for the second night, but it took me only 2 hours to reach the place from Oturere. Therefore, I decided to spontaneously change the plans and push until the end of the trail. But again, if you want to take your time and not rush, then it’s a nice place to stay.

Pricing

Huts: 36 NZD per adult per night, 17 years old and under free (booking still required)

Campsites: 15 NZD per adult per night, 17 years old and under free (booking still required). Campers can use huts facilities (except for the beds obviously).

Tongariro National Park, New Zealand

Weather

It’s best to monitor the conditions on MetService. The weather can change quickly, and strong winds are known on this track due to exposed terrain. It’s also worth dropping by to DOC office and reconfirm weather conditions. I learned the importance of it on my own skin (more below)!

2, 3 or 4 days?

Many people keep asking how many days they should split the distance for. The track offers 3 huts and campsites on the way, however, if you decide to stay in all of them, you won’t hike for longer than 3-4 hours per day. That’s rather short for me. I initially planned to have a tough first day, spend the night at Otutere campsite and on the next day stop for the second night at Waihohonu campsite. After departing from Otutere early, I arrived Waihohonu only after 2 hours. It was 9 am, the weather was perfect, my level of energy high enough so I just decided to push till the end. I wasn’t the only person that changed the plans in this way.

Tongariro National Park, New Zealand

If you are reasonably fit and don’t mind walking over 20 km a day, do it in 2 days.

If you prefer to sleep longer, make picnics along the way and do side trips, do it in 3 days.

If you prefer to do all of the above plus read a book and take all the scenery really slow-paced, then 4 days is the answer.

Track details and profile

Distance: 43.1 km (loop)

Time: 2-4 days

Tongariro Elevation
www.doc.govt.nz

The track profile and other useful details can be found inside the Department of Conservation (DOC) brochure.

Stage 1 – From Whakapapa Village to Mangatepopo Hut and Campsite (2-3h, 9.4km)

The start of the hike took me… 3 days. I arrived at Whakapapa Village a day before and was welcomed by cold weather, fog and pouring rain. Not perfect conditions for the first overnight hike. I didn’t know what to do so I went to the Visitor Centre asking DOC staff for advice and they said that indeed it won’t be very enjoyable to walk out there. „If you have time, go to see Taupo and Rotorua first, and we will postpone your bookings by 3 days”. It was an excellent decision and I must say that the DOC staff is always very helpful and professional. In the end, it’s not only about covering the distance of 40+ km but actually seeing some landscape.

I came back 3 days later and that time the weather seemed to be more friendly. I left the car at the parking near the Visitor Centre and hit the track in the early morning. I was the only hiker walking the narrow path across huge wide spaces with the cone of Ngauruhoe appearing on my right side. After around 1 hour, I met the only hiker during that stage. The guy was walking with a backpack 3 times smaller than mine and he was actually doing Te Araroa Trail which is 3000 km route from the top of North Island to the bottom of South Island. What a badass.

Tongariro National Park, New Zealand

I don’t know if I was shocked after a short chat with another hiker or maybe my backpack was too heavy with all the unnecessary things I took (more likely), but I slipped on one of the big and wet stones, lost my balance and fell down on my face. Hiking poles didn’t help! Falling was quite straightforward, getting up with huge and heavy backpack not so much.

After around 2-2.5 hours I arrived at Mangatepopo Hut and here I realized that walking times provided by DOC are way overestimated (it is around 4h in track description). Refill your water bottle here if necessary, you will need for next, much more demanding stage.

Tongariro National Park, New Zealand

This stage is the least impressive, therefore if you doubt your fitness level, you can start the hike from Mangatepopo Road End and cut 9 km from your first day. You would need to arrange transport, as you will not complete the full loop.

Stage 2 – From Mangatepopo Hut to Oturere Hut (3.5 – 4h, 12km)

Here the most popular part of the hike known as Tongariro Alpine Crossing starts. Luckily, I was already on the way for over 2 hours so all the crowds doing the 1-day version of the hike were far ahead of me.

The track becomes wider and continues up the valley towards Mangatepopo Saddle. The wide valley is just impressive, and I seriously had the music theme from Lord of the Rings playing in my head.

Tongariro National Park, New Zealand

Climb to the Saddle is the most challenging part of the day and here backpack starts to be really heavy. It also becomes warmer and the sun starts to burn my skin. I knew I forgot something, and that something was sun cream. Luckily it didn’t take long until I saw a couple having a rest and being kind to save me from sunburns by sharing the cream. The climb continues up to the Red Crater where I took the long break to take in all the views. In clear weather, you can even see Mount Taranaki! Magnificent.

Tongariro National Park, New Zealand
Tongariro National Park, New Zealand
Tongariro National Park, New Zealand
Tongariro National Park, New Zealand

Then the track goes down to Emerald Lakes. It’s a steep way down with plenty of small and slippery stones that proved to be challenging for a lot of tourists. My hiking poles proved to be very helpful to keep the balance. After descending, there is an option for 30min return side trip to Blue Lake which I took. It’s a sacred place for Maori and you must not touch the water. After that, I retrieved my steps and followed the track into Oturere Valley. Here I got the feeling like walking in the desert among lava forms. Ruapehu with its snowy peak is clearly visible on the horizon. After around 1 hour, I reached Oturere Hut and Campsite. If you desperately need a bath in ice-cold water, there is a waterfall close by (ask the ranger).

Tongariro Northern Circuit
Tongariro National Park, New Zealand

Stage 3 – From Oturere Hut and Campsite to Waihohonu Hut and Campsite (2-2.5h, 8.1 km)

The track continues for over 8 km through stream valleys and gravel fields. The morning fog made the atmosphere during the walk unique. On that day, there was a running event going on so I was passed by hundreds of runners. After around 2 hours I reached Waihohonu Hut, changed my initial plan of staying there overnight and continued until the track end.

Tongariro National Park, New Zealand

Stage 4 – From Waihohonu Hut and Campsite to Whakapapa Village (4-4.5h, 15.4 km)

The track follows Waihohonu Stream and climbs Tama Saddle. The area is known for strong winds. I experienced it on my skin, especially during a side trip to upper Tama Lake (1.5h return). Even though I left the backpack at the crossroad and continues just with a bottle of water, it was a steep incline and the wind made it very difficult to keep the balance. From the upper viewpoint, you get fine views over the lakes as well as Mount Ruapehu. After coming back to the crossroad and taking my backpack, it was another 2 hours to Whakapapa Village. I decided to add a bit more to the distance and check out Taranaki Falls as well. Don’t miss it!

Side trips

Blue Lake – Half an hour detour from the track junction nearby Emerald Lakes (along the Tongariro Alpine Crossing Track).

Tama Lakes – Two crates filled with water. It takes 15min return to Lower Tama and 1h return to Upper Lama. You can leave your backpack at the junction of the tracks and go light. Be careful of strong winds.

Tongariro National Park, New Zealand

Taranaki Falls Track – An alternative way to reach Whakapapa Village. Go down the steps to the base of the waterfall.

Mount Tongariro and Mount Ngauruhoe Summits – Technically, both summits can be climbed as a side trip. However, the route is not poled and the same as lakes, mountain’s summits are sacred for local Maori tribe and climbing is discouraged. I didn’t go to either of them and will not advertise this option.

Time to chill

It was wonderful 2 days in an out of this world landscape. When I reached parking, I was tired as hell. It’s a kind of physical exercise that consume your calories but build psychological strength and satisfaction. If I would need to select 3 places that I would like to visit again on North Island, Tongariro National Park would be one of them without a doubt!

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Great Barrier Island
In Hiking

Great Barrier Island: white sands and dark skies

Introduction

New day, new adventure! I woke up early and took my bags down to the reception. I was going to Great Barrier Island for 2 days only, so it didn’t make sense to take the whole luggage. Probably due to early hour, no one was there though, so I just left the note and 3 NZD fee hoping that my luggage will still be there when I arrive back the next day.

After doing some research about Great Barrier Island, I felt like I am going on an adventure. No ATM, no supermarket, solar energy or power generators, unsealed roads, no streetlights, limited mobile coverage. Sounds cool, doesn’t it? 

Great Barrier Island got its name from James Cook, as it lays like a barrier between the Pacific Ocean and Hauraki Gulf. Indigenous Maori people called it Aotea, meaning ‘Cloud’. It’s New Zealand’s fourth-largest island, after North, South, and Stewart.

How to get there: ferry or plane?

From Auckland, there are 2 options: either by plane or by ferry. 

The ferry is operated by SeaLink and in high season goes once per day, departing Auckland at around 8:00 AM and arriving at Tryphena 4.5 hour later or to Port Fitzroy 5 hours later. The cost is around 115 NZD for the return trip. It is quite a long travel if you just plan to drop by for 2 days as I did. 

Therefore, I decided on 30 min flight with Barrier Air. Yes, you will spend more money as the flight will cost you around 200 NZD. But people say that time is money. Taking a flight is also a more scenic way of arriving on the island. The plane is small, you have great views through the window being able to admire other islands from Hauraki Gulf such as Waiheke, Rangitoto, Little Barrier as well as the Coromandel Peninsula. The airport is at Claris, 12 km away from Tryphena where you can find accommodation, shop, pharmacy, and (as everywhere on the island) expensive fuel.

Great Barrier Island
Great Barrier Island
Great Barrier Island
Great Barrier Island

The hassle-free way to get to the airport in Auckland is with SkyBus. I bought the ticket online and enjoyed a 1-hour ride using free WiFi and reading about my next destination. Buses depart very frequently from Auckland CBD.

How to get around Great Barrier Island?

As the name suggests, Great Barrier Island is pretty big, so walking is not exactly the best idea. There is some bus going around but you will rely on the schedule and many of the scenic bays will be out of your reach. That’s why the best idea is to rent a car. I booked the one with Aotea Rentals – Nissan AD for 70 NZD per day. Never heard about a model like that but its youth time definitely passed a long time ago. It had so many scratches already that I knew that even if I make another one, that wouldn’t make a difference. It was still a decent and economical car that took me without an issue to all the places that I wanted to go to. Additionally, it has a big truck so it’s an extra advantage for people travelling in groups. The guy from Aotea Rentals was waiting for me at the airport and when I asked how should I return the car, he said: ‘just park it here and leave the keys inside’. Fair enough!

Great Barrier Island
Great Barrier Island

Driving on the island was quite an experience. Roads are narrow, sometimes sealed sometimes not. And it was the first time in my life that I had to drive on the left side of the road! Luckily even in high season, the traffic on the island is light, so after a while, I started to feel comfortable.

On the way to Port Fitzroy, I saw some shady bare foot hitchhiker and I felt the impulse to stop. He happened to be retired Kiwi fella that was going back to his boat parked in a bay down the road. Well, you can say – that’s life. We had a nice chat even though the Kiwi accent is sometimes beyond my understanding. And he thought all the time that I am from Holland, not Poland. Quite a common misunderstanding here, which I learned in the following months.

Top things to do and see

Dark Sky Sanctuary

Beautiful beaches and nature were not the only things that encouraged me to visit the Great Barrier Island. Another one was the fact that it’s one of 10 places recognized as International Dark Sky Sanctuaries (others being in Australia, US, Chile, South Africa, and the Pitcairn Islands). Remember when I said there is no electricity? This and the fact that the island is nearly 100 km away from Auckland make the night pitch black. It is an amazing spectacle in the sky. The best way to admire the Milky Way and other interesting constellations that can be seen in Southern Hemisphere is to spend the night camping.

Kaitoke Hot Springs

My first destination was 45 minutes track leading to forest hot springs. The track was completely empty and at some point, I started to doubt that I’m going the right way, but when I finally reached the spring, 3 folks were already enjoying their time there. I continued the short way up to the lookout and then came back meeting many more people heading the opposite direction. I guess not everyone is going for the hike straight after arrival at 9 am. The track starts and ends at Whangaparapara Road.

Great Barrier Island
Great Barrier Island
Great Barrier Island

Windy Canyon & Mount Hobson

The most scenic short hike on the island and, according to me, the best thing to do in general. You reach Windy Canyon around 10 minutes after departing from Aotea Road, and then continue for another ca. 2 hours to the highest point of the island – Mt Hobson (621m). Views from the top are simply magnificent and no picture can do this place justice. Go and see by yourself!

Track to Mount Hobson
Great Barrier Island
Great Barrier Island

Ruahine Lookout

Even though there was a sign ‘4WD only’ I took the risk and drove down to Cape Carrier. From there I followed the track down to Johnson’s Bay and then up the mountain. Bloody hell, I had the feeling that I was the first hiker on this trail for several weeks. Not meeting a single soul on the way up and down and having my face literally covered with spiderwebs seemed to confirm that. Close to the summit, there is Ruahine Lookout proving decent but not the best ocean views. It’s quite a steep climb taking anything between 3-4 hours return, depending on your shape. Luckily my car got out of the parking without any issue so if dry, I would say 4WD is not essential.

Great Barrier Island
Great Barrier Island
Great Barrier Island

Whalers Lookout

You can make it a destination on its own or just a stop on the way to Ruahine Lookout. Reachable from Johnson’s Bay, it’s the southernmost point of Great Barrier Island. There is a nice bench to have a rest and wait for the whales to make a splash, however, you have to be very lucky to actually see one.

Great Barrier Island
Great Barrier Island

Other hiking trails

Track to Mt Hobson is obviously not the only one on the island. There are amazing alternatives available, ranging from being just a couple of hours warm-ups, such as:

  • Tramline Track (6 h) following old tramline used by the Kauri Timber Company during the 1920s and 1930s.
  • Harataonga Coastal Walk (4-5 h one way) which is an easy and flat track with superb views of the coast.

… to some being multiple-day adventures:

  • Aotea Track (2-3 days) – the father of all hikes on the island, 25 km long loop encircling central mountain area. There are two huts on the way available for overnight stay.

Check the website of the Department of Conservation and select the hikes you like the most! In all cases be well prepared: take plenty of water, snacks, sun cream, hat and tell someone about your plans and expected return time.

Beaches and bays

If you like chilling on the sand (and I mean really white sand), you will have a blast here. The population of the island is around 600, increasing with tourists flow especially on summer weekends, but it’s still possible to find a perfect spot on the beach just to yourself, without anyone in the sight. There is more white sand beaches with fine surfing opportunities on the East Coast: Whangapoua Beach, Haratonga Beach, Awana Beach, Kaitoke Beach or Medlands Beach. You can feel the power of the ocean here! On the other hand, West Coast is dotted with calm bays giving even wilder and more remote feeling: Karaka Bay, Katherine Bay, Whangaparapara or Okupu Bay.

Great Barrier Island
Great Barrier Island

Port Fitzroy and Glenfern Sanctuary

Port Fitzroy is the arrival point of the ferry from Auckland CBD. There is a general store, a boat club, an information desk and fuel station.  Old Lady Track (45min – 1h) is a great way to straighten your legs and it has a steep side trip (30 min) up to Lookout Rock with stunning views over the harbour. Another point worth checking is Glenfern Sanctuary Regional Park located nearby. They offer self-guided or guided walks in the huge predator-proof area where endangered species of birds can recover. The loop walk is the most popular one.

Make a splash!

There are heaps of water activities to choose from: surfing, kayaking, fishing or diving. Numerous bays are also a heaven for all yachts lovers. You can also go the cheap way  – just relax at Kaitoke Hot Spring or at one of many scenic white sand beaches.

Was it worth it?

Yes, it was! Going to Great Barrier Island isn’t particularly cheap, but experience even half of what the island has to offer and you will certainly not regret it!

Questions? Please write a comment 🙂

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View on Rangitoto from Motutapu Island
In Hiking

Day trip to Rangitoto and Motutapu Islands

Being a bit tired of big city life, I decided to spend another day in NZ closer to nature. Waking up early (probably jet-lag started to catch up on me) made it possible to board the first ferry of the day going to Rangitoto Island. 

Rangitoto is one of 50 volcanoes around Auckland, last time erupting around 600 years ago. It is still active and basically can erupt anytime. How fun for Aucklanders!

How to get to Rangitoto?

The connections between Auckland and surrounding islands are operated by Fullers and the return trip to Rangitoto lowered my budget by only 39 NZD. Not too bad for the whole day trip visiting two islands, isn’t it? The cruise takes just 25 minutes but what a scenic 25 minutes it is. You will pass by Auckland Port as well as fancy Davenport district with its Mount Victoria and historic reserve at Davenport.

Rangitoto

Hiking on Rangitoto Island

Once the boat arrived at the wharf, I and pretty much all the other passengers went on to climb the top of the Rangitoto volcano which stands 259m above the sea level. The climb is a too big word though, it’s rather a gentle walk up through lava fields that is 3.1 km long, with the only steep part at the very end (stairs). The effort was rewarded with the view of the crater rim and, once at to the higher viewpoint, your eyes open to the sublime panorama of Auckland and Hauraki Gulf.

Along the path to the top (or when going back down), you can make a small 15 minutes detour to explore lava caves. If you like dark, wet and insects’ friendly places – you just found one.

Rangitoto
Rangitoto Volcano

After taking a couple of panoramic pictures, I decided to take another way down towards crossroads with Summit Rd, then turn right and go to the beginning of Boulder Wreck Bay Track. Here I understood why everyone suggests wearing sturdy shoes on Rangitoto. I was walking on lava rocks. Big. Sharp. Getting hotter and hotter with every minute. My sports shoes tackled the summit without an issue, but here the discomfort and (shortly after) pain became significant. 

The track is about 45 minutes one way until you reach the bay that is now the graveyard of over 10 vessels that were parked here for disposal between 1887 and 1947. Some parts are well visible, especially during low tide.

Wreck Bay at Rangitoto Island

After another 45 minutes back to the main road, it was time to change the scenery and cross the bridge to much grassier Motutapu Island.

Hiking on Motutapu Island

There are several tracks on the island (including 4.5 h loop track) passing by remains of island’s rich history from the times when there were Maori settlements, Victorian picnic parties or WWII military base. However, having covered a couple of kilometres on Rangitoto already and being short on time before the last ferry back to Auckland, I decided to walk to Emu Point and back. After all, missing the last ferry and being stranded on the island without food and water didn’t sound like a good idea.

Motutapu Island

What a change after rough rocks at Rangitoto! Here you are walking through grassland that is mainly a playground for bulls so the only thing you must take care of is not to step into their fresh poo. Views are particularly nice with Rangitoto Island on one side, the panorama of Auckland on another and plenty of yachts in between.

Motutapu Island

If you wish to extend your adventure, it’s possible to camp overnight at Home Bay. Home Bay is also a place where you can catch the ferry back to Auckland (less frequent than from Rangitoto, check the schedule first). In my case, I just retrieved my steps and came back all the way to the wharf on Rangitoto Island following very scenic and even very rocky Coastal Track (around 2 hours). Rocks were not the only bad news. Another one was that I was running low on drinking water so during the last hours I had to deal without it.

If you still have some time before the departure, you can check the small Bach Museum. Baches are a typical kiwi style summer houses built here. Quite cool to have a summer house on the active volcano and just drop by from time to time from Auckland! This is also probably the only place on the island where you can buy drinking water. A small bottle cost 2 NZD but I was seriously so thirsty that I would have probably paid 20 NZD if necessary. Such a relief!

Is it worth visiting Rangitoto and Motutapu Islands?

I can say it was an awesome second day in New Zealand. Both islands are full of incredible scenery and even though they are so close to Auckland, it feels to be miles away. The trip taught me important kiwi lessons, that stayed in my mind for next travels.

Firstly, if you are uncertain about how hiking track looks like, always prepare for the worst and take sturdy shoes. 

Secondly, don’t underestimate your water supplies. Taking too much and carrying it in your backpack is still better than walking in the heat without a single drop.

Finally, always use sun cream! This part I learned after being back at the hostel. Probably I looked like a typical tourist on the first days in New Zealand. Well, true story. New Zealand’s sun can be very deceptive. Even though it doesn’t look very sunny, you can still get badly burned.

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