Introduction

Larache is a coastal city in northern Morocco known for its rich history, vibrant culture, and picturesque location along the Atlantic Ocean. It has historical ties to Moorish and Spanish influences, reflected in its architecture and cultural heritage. Founded during the Islamic period, it later became an important port city under Spanish rule before returning to Moroccan sovereignty.

The city is particularly famous for its laid-back atmosphere and stunning landscapes, including sandy beaches and the nearby Loukkos River. One of the most notable sites near Larache is Lixus, an ancient archaeological site with Phoenician, Carthaginian, and Roman ruins. Lixus is believed to have been one of the oldest continuously inhabited settlements in the region and is often associated with myths, including the story of the Labours of Hercules.

The medina (old town) of Larache offers a blend of traditional Moroccan life with Spanish colonial-era influences. Its streets are lined with whitewashed buildings, colourful markets, and small cafes. The city’s vibrant port and fishing industry play a key role in its local economy, contributing to its culinary traditions, which heavily feature fresh seafood.

How to get there?

By Air

The nearest international airports to Larache are:

Tangier Ibn Battuta Airport (TNG): About 85 km north of Larache. From here, you can take a taxi, train or bus.

Rabat-Salé Airport (RBA): Around 150 km south of Larache, also accessible by road or train.

By Train

Larache is not directly served by a train station, but the nearest station is in Ksar El-Kebir, about 30 km away. From Ksar El-Kebir, you can take a shared taxi or local transport to reach Larache.

The ONCF (Moroccan National Railway) network connects major cities like Tangier, Rabat, Casablanca, and Fez to Ksar El-Kebir.

By Bus

Several bus companies operate routes to Larache from major cities in Morocco:

CTM: Known for comfort and reliability, offers services from cities like Tangier, Casablanca, Rabat, and Fez.

Private buses: Less expensive but may be less punctual or comfortable.

By Grand Taxi

Shared taxis (Grand Taxis) are a popular way to travel between cities in Morocco. You can take a Grand Taxi to Larache from nearby cities like Tangier, Ksar El-Kebir, or Asilah.

By Car

Larache is easily accessible by car:

From Tangier: Take the A1 highway (approximately 1 hour).

From Rabat or Casablanca: Use the A1 highway heading north.

From Fez: Take the N4 and N1 roads via Ksar El-Kebir.

How to get around Larache?

Once in Larache, small taxis and buses are the most common ways to get around. Walking is also an excellent way to explore the city, especially the medina and the port area.

Where to stay?

I selected La Maison Haute for its great location inside the medina and good quality-to-price ratio. I wasn’t disappointed. There was everything that I needed for my short, one-night stay, and the hosts were friendly, even though communication in English was limited. A good breakfast was included in the price.

The best time to visit

Spring (March to May)

Temperatures are moderate, ranging from 18°C to 25°C. The landscapes are lush and green due to the previous winter rains. It’s a perfect time for outdoor activities like visiting Lixus, strolling through the medina, or enjoying the beaches. It’s less crowded than summer.

Autumn (September to November)

Similar to spring, with temperatures between 20°C and 27°C. The sea is still warm enough for swimming after the summer heat. Quieter than in summer, with fewer tourists, and the weather is comfortable for sightseeing.

Summer (June to August)

Hot and sunny, with temperatures often reaching 30°C to 35°C. Coastal breezes help keep the heat manageable. Best time for beachgoers, as the beaches are lively and the water is warm. However, it can be crowded, especially with local and international tourists.

Winter (December to February)

Cooler but mild, with temperatures between 10°C and 18°C. Occasional rain is possible. Ideal period for a peaceful visit, as the city is less busy. While beach activities may be limited, it’s a great time to explore cultural and historical attractions.

For the best balance of pleasant weather and fewer crowds, spring or autumn is highly recommended.

What to see in Larache?

I started my exploration from Liberation Square (Spanish Square). A very lively spot where local residents gather to catch up with friends and unwind over coffee or tea. This circular plaza was constructed by the Spanish and is located just next to Larache’s historic medina. It is surrounded by exquisite Hispano-Moorish buildings, most of which are now terrace cafes. There are lots of palm trees and a fountain, which makes it an ideal spot to relax and observe people.

While walking around the square, you can’t miss the huge Bab al-Khemis, which is the entrance to the medina. Over the past century, not much has changed in the blue-and-white area. It is mostly residential and centred on the expansive covered market where household products and fresh food are offered for sale.

Fort Kebibat at the northern end of the medina is a 16th-century fort, built by the Portuguese. Unfortunately, today it lies in ruins with lots of trash around and cannot be visited. From there, it’s a good idea to have a walk along the corniche, or even have a glass of tea at the terraces to enjoy panoramic views over the Loukos River and the port.

There is not much to see in the port itself unless you want to buy fresh fish at the pier. You may have it grilled for you at one of the restaurants nearby.

On the other side of the Loukos River, you may find the best beach in town, known as Peligrosa. It’s reachable by small boats from the port and the corniche area, or you can drive there by car, taking the less direct way passing by the Lixus Archaeological Site.

Worth mentioning is also the Church of Our Lady of the Pilar, which dates back to 1931 and is located near Liberation Square. Very pretty from the outside, but unfortunately, it was closed to visitors on the day of my visit. Today, it is the centre of a local community that organises cultural activities.

A short walking distance from the church stands the Laqaliq Castle (Stork’s Castle). This is another stunning example of Renaissance military architecture. Originally having imposing bastions at each angle until one was lost, the castle takes the shape of an equilateral triangle. Up until the sixteenth century, it served as the medina’s institutional and representative hub and protected the road leading to Fez.

Nearby, you will notice the Jewish Tower. Oral histories state that the incorrect name resulted from the widespread rumour that a Jewish doctor who lived in that tower treated Sultan Alsaadi during the well-known Wadi Almakhain Battle in the sixteenth century.

There is a large Muslim Cemetery on the other side of the road.

I left the best for the end, and after finishing sightseeing around the city centre, I took a taxi to the Lixus Archaeological Site. I was the only tourist there, which added to the experience and made the experience more intimate. The atmosphere was amazing, and I especially liked the part of the ruins located on top of the hill with wide-open panoramic views. But let me share the historical background of Lixus with you!

Lixus was founded by the Phoenicians around the 7th or 8th century BCE as a trading post. Its location near the Loukkos River made it an important centre for trade and maritime activity. The fertile land and access to water helped it thrive as a hub for agriculture, fishing, and trade with other Mediterranean civilisations.

After the Phoenicians, the Carthaginians took control of Lixus, continuing its development as a key part of their trading network. In 146 BCE, after the fall of Carthage, it came under Roman control, becoming part of the province of Mauretania Tingitana.

Lixus is famously associated with Greek mythology, particularly the Labours of Hercules. According to legend, it was in Lixus that Hercules completed his eleventh labour by retrieving the Golden Apples of the Hesperides, which granted immortality. The Hesperides were said to live in a lush garden near Lixus, guarded by the dragon Ladon. This myth gave Lixus a sense of mystery and divine importance, drawing interest from ancient storytellers and travellers.

During the Roman era, Lixus reached its peak. It became a flourishing city with amphitheatres, temples, baths, and residential areas. The Romans built elaborate salt factories and fish-salting facilities to produce garum, a prized fermented fish sauce exported across the empire. Lixus was known for its wealth and cultural significance during this time, serving as a bridge between the Mediterranean world and Africa.

After the fall of the Roman Empire, Lixus began to decline. The rise of other trade centres and political shifts contributed to its gradual abandonment. By the Islamic period, it was largely deserted, with its remaining population moving to nearby Larache.

Today, Lixus is an important archaeological site, showcasing ruins from the Phoenician, Carthaginian, and Roman periods. Visitors can explore its amphitheatre, temples, baths, and the remains of its industrial fish-salting complexes. The site’s hilltop location offers stunning views of the Loukkos River and the surrounding countryside.

Introduction

Erg Chigaga is one of the largest and most impressive sand dune areas in the Sahara Desert, located in the southeastern part of Morocco near the Algerian border. It is known for its remote and pristine beauty.

The dunes can reach heights of up to 300 meters and extend for over 40 kilometres, creating a breathtaking landscape. Unlike the more popular Erg Chebbi near Merzouga, Erg Chigaga is more secluded and less developed for tourism, offering a more authentic desert experience.

Visitors can explore traditional Berber (Amazigh) culture, stay in desert camps, and enjoy activities like sandboarding, camel riding, and stargazing under the desert’s clear night sky.

How to get to Erg Chigaga?

Reaching Erg Chigaga typically involves a journey through the desert, often by 4×4 vehicles or camel treks, starting from towns like M’Hamid or Zagora.

From Marrakech

Take a bus (e.g., CTM or Supratours) or drive to Zagora. The journey by road takes about 7–9 hours, passing through the scenic High Atlas Mountains and the Draa Valley.

From Ouarzazate

Ouarzazate is another popular starting point. From here, it’s a 4–5-hour drive to Zagora and then onward to M’Hamid.

Continue to M’Hamid

M’Hamid, a small desert outpost, is about 1.5 hours south of Zagora. Regular buses and taxis are available. Alternatively, many organized tours start from Ouarzazate or Marrakech and include transport to M’Hamid.

Off-Road to Erg Chigaga

From M’Hamid, the journey to Erg Chigaga involves traversing 60 kilometres of desert terrain. This requires a 4×4 vehicle or a camel trek.

4×4 jeeps (usually Toyota Land Cruiser) are driven by experienced drivers who navigate the challenging desert trails. The drive takes about 1.5 – 2 hours.

Camel Trek

slower but more traditional option is travelling by camel, which can take 2–3 days, depending on your starting point.

Where to stay?

Accommodation comes together in a package with transportation by 4X4 and food. Camp quality can vary and some offer more traditional Berber tents and some offer luxury settings among the dunes. There are also plenty of hotels and desert camps in M’Hamid if you need to spend the night before setting off to Erg Chigaga.

For adventurers travelling in their private vehicles, there will be no problems with self-sufficient camping.

The best time to visit

Spring (March to May): temperatures are warm but comfortable, typically ranging from 20°C to 30°C during the day and cooler in the evenings. This is a beautiful time for desert landscapes, as the sand and skies are vivid, and occasional spring rains may create rare blooms in the desert. Spring is popular with tourists, especially in April, so booking accommodations or desert tours in advance is recommended.

Autumn (September to November): similar to spring, temperatures are mild, with daytime highs around 25°C to 30°C and cooler evenings. October is especially pleasant. Clear skies and beautiful sunsets make autumn a favourite for photographers and those looking to experience the desert at its most vibrant. Autumn also sees a fair number of tourists, but generally fewer than spring. It’s still wise to book ahead, especially in October.

Winter (December to February): days are mild, with temperatures between 15°C to 20°C, but nights can be cold, dropping close to freezing in the desert. The winter sky is often crisp and clear, perfect for stargazing. If you’re prepared for the cold nights, winter can be a magical time to experience the desert’s tranquillity. Winter is less crowded, though the holiday period around late December can be busy.

Summer (June to August): daytime temperatures soar, often reaching 40°C to 50°C, making outdoor activities challenging. Most tours run early in the morning or late in the afternoon to avoid the midday heat, and many desert camps close or operate with limited services. Fewer tourists visit in summer due to the heat, making it an option for those who want to avoid crowds, but only if you’re comfortable with intense temperatures.

Overnight trip

I organized my Erg Chigaga trip at short notice, one day before arrival to M’Hamid. After contacting several camps and tour providers, the best offer was given by Hamza Laghfiri. The prices aren’t very encouraging for a solo traveller, so it’s always better to travel in a group and share the cost of jeep transportation. Erg Chigaga isn’t that close to M’Hamid, so your driver will stay there overnight as well. Taking into consideration that the food and accommodation are included, the price seems to be justified.

After negotiations, I agreed to pay 120 EUR for the complete tour. It was the best price I could get as other operators wanted from 150 EUR to even 220 EUR.

Here are the Hamza’s contact details:

hamza.laghfiri@gmail.com

+00 212 (0) 676 380 671 / + 00 212 (0) 656 950 249

The trip to Erg Chegaga was supposed to start at 2 PM so I still had quite a lot of time to kill in the morning. After checking out from my accommodation in M’Hamid, I had a short walk around the town and I bought a Berber-style head scarf. However, it didn’t prove to be very practical while walking on the dunes as I was sweating like a pig because of that synthetic material.

As soon as I texted Hamza that I was ready, he appeared in front of the meeting spot literally in 30 seconds. I guess he really didn’t want me to get in contact with any other drivers hanging out on the streets as potentially he could lose the customer. He introduced me to the driver who didn’t speak much English but seemed to be a nice and sensible guy. His driving style was very careful which I appreciated a lot, especially after my previous experiences with taxi drivers in Morocco. We could make a stop for the pictures any time I wanted and he also showed me a water well built next to a nomadic camp. The car was a Toyota Land Cruiser and the only negative was that the window on the passenger side couldn’t open.

The views and types of the desert were changing surprisingly fast. First, the landscape was more sandy with some occasional vegetation, then stony and wide open spaces and finally, we saw massive sand dunes. We passed by some folks travelling in pretty old cars, doing the route through Mauretania to Senegal, following the classic Dakar route. What a dream!

As we arrived at the camp, I was greeted with tea and snacks. At this time of the day, I was the only guest there but they said that 9-10 more people would come later on. The camp was much bigger than the one I stayed in Merzouga and there were even bathrooms with showers. I was very surprised that they brought water in huge containers for such a long distance.

I got a private room with two single beds and carpets on the floor. Very cosy and atmospheric! Actually, it wasn’t a tent but some other light construction.

After tea, I set off for something that was supposed to be a short walk to the dunes, and instead, it lasted until sunset. I climbed the highest dune, from where the views were simply amazing. I felt like the desert belongs to me. Absolutely no other people nearby. It was hot, and quiet and only flies were a pain in the ass. I spot a small camp at the bottom of the dune but it rather looked like the one belonging to nomads. Incredible that people live like that. I am always impressed by how different human lives and stories can be, depending on the culture, history and geographical location. Not a bit different… but absolutely different.

Then, I made a stupid decision to go down and head back to the camp. On the way, I noticed plenty of other tourists who probably just arrived and were heading to the same place where I was a few minutes ago. It was pretty logical as the sunset time was coming and the top of the highest dune sounds like a good place to be, doesn’t it? Instead of continuing to the camp, I turned around and climbed that bloody dune again 🙂 The sunset was indeed magical!

It was getting dark really quickly so I was rushing back not to be surprised by darkness and not to get lost among the dunes. When I entered my room, I instantly drank one litre of water, as I didn’t take any (it was supposed to be a quick walk to the dunes.) Never underestimate the desert!

Just before the dinner, the staff working in the camp lit plenty of candles so the atmosphere was unique. The food was quite standard for Morocco – lentil soup and chicken tajine. Once dinner was over, we moved to the fireplace and it was time for singing and playing traditional instruments.

I slept well and started the day with the sunrise on the dune. Surprisingly, other guests were just sleeping and it seemed that I was the only one out there. The spectacle was good but not as impressive as the sunset the day before. Then I had breakfast and it was time to leave back to M’Hamid!

We took the same way and when we arrived in town, Hamza was already waiting. We shook hands and said goodbye. A very nice guy and the trip was organized exactly as expected, therefore I highly recommend his services!

Introduction

Todra Gorge is a stunning natural canyon located in the eastern part of the High Atlas Mountains near Tinghir in Morocco. It is renowned for its dramatic limestone cliffs that rise vertically up to 400 meters on either side of the Todra River. The canyon creates a narrow passage that is particularly breathtaking at its narrowest point, where it is just 10 meters wide.

The gorge, shaped by the erosive power of the Todra River over thousands of years, showcases vibrant shades of red, pink, and orange rock that change in hue with the shifting light throughout the day. The gorge is a popular destination for both tourists and adventurers, especially climbers drawn by the sheer cliffs that offer some of the best rock-climbing routes in Morocco.

Trekkers and hikers also frequent the area to experience the raw beauty of the landscape, while casual visitors can enjoy the scenic walk through the canyon’s lower reaches. At sunrise and sunset, the lighting on the cliff faces is particularly photogenic, creating a mesmerizing effect against the rugged terrain. In addition to its natural beauty, Todra Gorge is a culturally rich area. Surrounding villages are inhabited by Berber communities, where visitors can experience local traditions, crafts, and warm hospitality. The gorge itself is easily accessible from nearby towns, making it a must-visit for anyone travelling in Morocco.

How to get to Todra Gorge?

To reach Todra Gorge, travellers typically go through the town of Tinerhir, which is the closest major town.

By Car

The roads to Todra Gorge are generally paved and well-maintained, though some areas can be winding, especially through the mountain passes.

From Marrakech

The drive from Marrakech to Todra Gorge takes about 6–7 hours. You’ll head east via the N9 highway, cross the scenic Tizi n’Tichka pass, and then join the N10 highway towards Ouarzazate and Tinghir.

From Fes

A drive from Fes takes about 8–9 hours. You’ll drive south through the Middle Atlas, passing Ifrane and Midelt, before reaching Errachidia and then Tinerhir.

From Merzouga

If you’re visiting the Sahara first, you can drive from Merzouga to Todra Gorge in about 3–4 hours. Head west via the N12 highway, then join the N10 to Tinghir.

By Bus

Tinerhir’s bus station is centrally located, and taxis are available to take you from Tinghir to the gorge itself.

From Marrakech

CTM and Supratours are the main bus companies offering routes from Marrakech to Tinghir. The journey takes around 8–9 hours and typically requires a transfer in Ouarzazate.

From Fes

Direct buses to Tinghir are less common, but you can often find routes that connect through Errachidia or Merzouga. The trip can take 10+ hours depending on the route.

From Merzouga

Supratours and local buses connect Merzouga to Tinghir, with the journey taking about 4–5 hours.

By Taxi

Once in Tinghir, you can easily hire a “grand taxi” to take you directly to Todra Gorge. The distance is about 15 kilometres, and the trip takes 20–30 minutes. Taxis can be shared or hired privately, depending on your preference.

By Tour

Many travellers opt for guided tours from major cities like Marrakech, which often include transport, local guides, and stops at other attractions like Ouarzazate and the Dades Valley. These tours range from one-day excursions to multi-day trips and are a convenient option for those who prefer organized travel.

Where to stay?

I didn’t have any reservations so simply asked for a room at Auberge Restaurant Tizgui and got one without any problems (November). Very well located near the gorge and with great views from the upper terrace. Breakfast was included.

The best time to visit

Spring (March to May): This is one of the most popular times to visit, as temperatures are warm (but not hot), and the landscape is often lush and green from recent rains. Daytime temperatures are generally around 20–25°C, making it ideal for exploring.

Autumn (September to November): Similar to spring, autumn offers pleasant temperatures and fewer crowds. The summer heat has typically subsided by September, making it a great time for hiking, climbing, and enjoying the scenery. Daytime temperatures range from 20–28°C.

Summer (June to August): Summers in Todra Gorge can be extremely hot, with daytime temperatures often exceeding 35°C, especially in July and August. While mornings and late afternoons can still be pleasant, midday heat can make outdoor activities uncomfortable. However, some visitors still come in the summer to enjoy cooler canyon breezes and early-morning hikes.

Winter (December to February): Winters are generally mild in Todra Gorge, with daytime temperatures around 10–15°C. However, nights can be very cold, sometimes dropping close to freezing, especially in January. If you don’t mind the chill, winter can offer a peaceful experience with few crowds.

Plan your trip in spring or autumn for the best weather conditions.  While winter is generally mild, it can get quite cold at night and in the mornings, with temperatures occasionally dropping close to freezing, especially at higher elevations. Summer can be hot, but temperatures are milder in the mountains.

You should always have some warmer layers, regardless of the season. In the end, it’s mountains there!

Tinghir

Most tourists just drive through Tinghir without stopping but it’s worth a stop for an hour or two. Check out the historic Kasbah, for a nice view of the city and mountains in the background. Other than that, it’s a ruin and there’s not much to see. Walking around is free of charge.

Another sight worth mentioning is Ikalalne Mosque, a beautiful building with an interesting history and unique architecture. There is a guardian, a Berber man who is renovating it by himself and maintaining it. Very kind and enthusiastic person who will certainly show you around for a donation.

The road R703 which goes towards Todra Gorga, passes by Palmeraie de Tinghir, a stunning haven of greenery in the middle of the arid south of Morocco. The oasis is maintained by a traditional irrigation system called khattara, which dates back centuries. The technique is a marvel of traditional engineering, where underground canals bring water from distant mountains to irrigate fields.

You can admire the panorama from a lookout point along the road or drive down to one of the villages and get closer.

Todra Gorge

The gorge was formed by the Todra and Dades rivers, which have carved out massive red limestone cliffs over thousands of years. Some of these cliff walls rise up to 400 meters on either side of the canyon, creating a narrow, awe-inspiring passageway. The narrowest point is just 10 meters in width at its most constricted point, emphasizing the height and majesty of the cliffs surrounding it. The best time to visit is early morning or late afternoon. Other than that, expect a lot of bus tours stopping here on the way to Merzouga.

Loop hike

A popular and extremely scenic hike. The distance is 9 kilometres with an elevation gain of ~ 610 meters. It should take about about 3,5 – 4 hours to complete. I started with the ascent from the parking area in Todra Gorge and then descended to Ait Tizgui village and followed the road back to the parking where I left the car. The views of the mountains are breathtaking and about halfway you will come across Berbers living in tents in a nomadic style. They will most likely offer you tea, and it’s hard to imagine a better setting to get one and enjoy it.  

The trail is not really marked but with an offline map on Mapy.cz I didn’t have any issues following it and monitoring my current position.

Drive further

It definitely pays off to continue driving R703 further towards Tamtetoucht. The landscape is still incredible and all bus tours turn around to take another road to Merzouga, so most likely there will be minimal traffic. If you are adventurous and have some extra time, I recommend driving all the way to Er-Rich and then turning towards Merzouga from there, passing by Ziz Canyon on the way. You won’t regret it as the views are breathtaking!

Introduction

The Valley of Roses, located in the Dades Valley in Morocco, is a picturesque and fertile area renowned for cultivating a special type of rose, Rosa Damascena (Damask rose), particularly in and around the town of Kelaat M’Gouna. It is part of the greater Draa-Tafilalet region in the foothills of the Atlas Mountains, close to Boumalne Dadès.

Roses are harvested to produce a variety of products, including rosewater, essential oils, and perfumes. Moreover, every year in May, the valley celebrates the Festival of Roses, a vibrant and colourful event that marks the end of the rose harvest season. The festival includes music, traditional dancing, parades, and the crowning of a “Miss Rose.” It attracts both locals and tourists who come to enjoy the festivities and purchase rose-based products.

The roses grown in the valley are an important source of income for the local community. Rosewater and rose oil are highly sought after for their use in cosmetics, perfumes, and culinary products. Small cooperatives in Kelaat M’Gouna and surrounding areas produce these items and export them across Morocco and internationally.

How to get to Rose Valley?

From Marrakech or Ouarzazate

You can start your journey from Marrakech, about 285 km from Kalaat M’Gouna. Most people combine a visit to Rose Valley with a trip to the Dadès Gorge, Todra Gorge, or the Sahara Desert.

Ouarzazate is closer to the Kalaat M’Gouna (about 95 km).

By Car

Renting a car is the most flexible way to travel. Take the N9 road from Marrakech towards Ouarzazate, passing through the scenic Tizi n’Tichka Pass in the Atlas Mountains. From Ouarzazate, continue on the N10 road towards Kalaat M’Gouna and Boumalne Dadès. It’s about 285 kilometres and 5 hours drive.

By Bus

You can take a bus from Marrakech or Ouarzazate to Boumalne Dadès. The journey from Marrakech takes about 7–8 hours, while it’s roughly 2–3 hours from Ouarzazate. Popular operators include CTM or Supratours.

Once you arrive in Boumalne Dadès, ask around at your accommodation or travel agents on the streets for further sightseeing options and day tours.

The best time to visit

The best time to visit Rose Valley is during the spring, from late April to mid-May. This period is when the valley’s famous rose fields are in full bloom, creating a stunning landscape of fragrant pink roses. The highlight of the season is the Festival of Roses, typically held in May, which celebrates the annual rose harvest with music, dancing, and cultural events.

What to see and do in the Rose Valley?

Visit a shop or cooperative

There are plenty of shops and cooperatives where you can get a short tour with an explanation of how they make the oil. They are mostly located along the main road, so you can’t miss them. According to one of the salesmen, 4 tons of roses are needed to make 1 litre of rose oil! If you like the products, it could be a great gift idea for your friends and family.

Walk amond roses

A short stroll through the green oasis is a good idea to see the plants closer. There isn’t any specific trail to follow, just improvise 🙂 Hdida or Taberkhachte are two villages that give quite easy access to the fields.

Kasbah ruins

Large kasbah ruins stand only 3 kilometres from the turn-off from the road N10. The site can be reached easily on foot from the main road.

Gorges Izelmaden

Another beautiful gorge where locals like to chill next to the stream.

Further away

Gorges d’Amejgag

A spectacular drive through the gorge takes you sometimes at river level and other times on the road excavated in the rock wall. It attracts offroad fans and can be explored by motorcycle or 4X4.

Drive through Tizi n’ Aït Hamad to Aït Bouguemez

If you are adventurous enough, you can drive through the highest mountains pass in Morocco – Tizi n’ Aït Hamad – to Aït Bouguemez. The road is not an easy one, it has many crazy bends and in some sections, the surface is really bad. Drive slowly and carefully!

The distance from Kalaat M’Gouna to Aït Bouguemez is 122 km but you should budget at least 4 hours to drive it.

You can see more about Aït Bouguemez in a separate post HERE.

Introduction

The Dades Gorges is a stunning natural formation located in the High Atlas Mountains of Morocco, carved by the Dades River over thousands of years. This dramatic series of gorges and canyons offers some of the most spectacular scenery in the country. It lies between the towns of Boumalne Dades and Agoudal but most of the tourists don’t go further than M’semrir.

The Dades Gorges is famous for its jagged cliffs, red and orange-hued rocks, and unusual geological formations, including the well-known “Monkey Fingers” rock formations near the village of Tamellalt.

The gorges are also renowned for their scenic, hairpin-turn roads, particularly the stretch that climbs up the mountainside, providing breathtaking views of the valley below. This road is often a highlight for road trips and attracts photographers for its dramatic curves.

The Dades Valley is home to several small Berber villages that maintain a traditional way of life. The architecture includes ancient kasbahs (fortified homes) and ksars (fortified villages), built from mud and straw, blending into the landscape.

The Dades Gorges are close to other notable sites, such as the Todra Gorge, another impressive canyon. Many travellers visit both in one trip, often as part of a broader route that includes the Sahara Desert (Merzouga) and Aït Benhaddou, a UNESCO World Heritage site.

How to get to Dades Gorges?

From Marrakech or Ouarzazate

You can start your journey from Marrakech, about 300 km from the Dadès Valley. Most people combine a trip to the Dadès Valley with a tour of the Sahara Desert.

Ouarzazate is closer to the Dadès Valley (about 140 km) and is often a stopover point. Many travellers visit Ouarzazate for its proximity to the Dadès and Todra Gorges.

By Car

Renting a car is the most flexible way to travel. Take the N9 road from Marrakech towards Ouarzazate, passing through the scenic Tizi n’Tichka Pass in the Atlas Mountains. From Ouarzazate, continue on the N10 road towards Boumalne Dadès.

Approach from Boumalne Dades or Agoudal?

Most tourists drive in Dades Gorges from Boumalne Dades. In such case, you will have a tarmac road more or less until Bouljam which is roughly 70 kilometres away. After that, it’s a dirt road which climbs up to Agoudal. It is doable but stressful in rental sedan cars. It will be your choice to continue or turn around and come back the same way.

If you really want to cover the whole distance of Dades Gorges, probably it’s better to start in Agoudal and drive down towards Boumalne Dades. I did it this way in Renault Clio and damn, it was certainly the most difficult road that I have taken in Morocco! On the other hand, the views were magnificent, with an impressive gorge on the left side wriggling like a snake. Make sure you go slowly!

By Bus

You can take a bus from Marrakech or Ouarzazate to Boumalne Dadès. The journey from Marrakech takes about 7–8 hours, while from Ouarzazate, it’s roughly 2–3 hours. Popular operators include CTM or Supratours.

Once you arrive in Boumalne Dadès, ask around at your accommodation or travel agents on the streets for further sightseeing options and day tours.

By Tour

Many tour operators offer guided trips to the Dadès Valley from Marrakech or Ouarzazate, often as part of multi-day desert tours that include the Sahara, Ait Benhaddou, and Todra Gorge. These tours will handle all transportation and logistics, making it a more convenient but less flexible option if you want to explore at your own pace.  

The best time to visit

Plan your trip in spring or autumn for the best weather conditions.  While winter is generally mild, it can get quite cold at night and in the mornings, with temperatures occasionally dropping close to freezing, especially at higher elevations. Summer can be hot, but temperatures are milder in the mountains.

You should always have some warmer layers, regardless of the season. In the end, it’s mountains there!

Where to stay?

There are several nice riads and homestays in the villages or along the road R704. I stayed in Hotel Babylon Dades and was perfectly satisfied. The room was cosy and the tajine for dinner was one of the best I have had in Morocco. It’s also located very close to another beautiful and narrow gorge. Ideal for a morning walk!

Boumalne Dades

A small town located at the entrance to the Dadès Gorge. It is a popular stop for travellers exploring the High Atlas, as well as those heading towards the Sahara Desert. If you travel by bus, this is most likely where you will arrive. Walk around the town and do your research at travel agents about the tours exploring Dades and Todra gorges.

Sidi Boubker Gorge

Just 15 kilometres from Boumalne Dades in this harder accessible gorge – Sidi Boubker. You can park the car near Hotel Atlas Gorge Dades and walk down. On my visit in November, there was a lot of water in the gorge so I was not able to explore it deeper.

Monkey Fingers

The Monkey Fingers is a scenic trek, specifically in an area known for its unique rock formations that resemble the fingers of a monkey’s hand. These formations are located near the village of Tamellalt.

The hike offers an exciting combination of dramatic landscapes, towering red rock canyons, and narrow gorges, making it a popular destination for adventurous travellers and nature lovers. Hikers can explore the rock formations and the surrounding valleys, discovering small Berber villages, and beautiful viewpoints over the gorge. The area is also dotted with kasbahs (traditional mud-brick fortresses), adding a cultural dimension to the experience.

More about it HERE.

Little canyon near Hotel Babylon Dades

If you turn left from Hotel Babylon Dades, in a few meters you will see the path on the right side, crossing over a creek. It will take you to a beautiful narrow gorge. Explore as far as you can! I had to turn back after around 1.5 – 2 kilometers as there was quite a bit of water and climbing over the rocks was getting more and more difficult. Great adventure though!

Bends and viewpoint

The bends are a series of sharp, switchback turns that snake their way up the steep canyon walls. These hairpin turns are dramatic and provide some of the most breathtaking views of the gorge and surrounding mountains.

For the best view of famous bends on the road going through Dades Gorge, stop for a drink at the Cafe and Restaurant Timzzillite Chez Mohamed.

Narrow section

One of the most scenic parts of the gorge, with a road on one side and a stream on the other, surrounded by towering rocky walls. Unbelievable!

Aweddim

The ruins of a watchtower which was built during the French colonial era.

Amouguer

Here you can drive down to the village and then walk towards the bottom of Dades Gorge.

Kefroun (turtle’s back)

Spectacular landscape and the rock formation which resembles a turtle shell. Park on the roadside and enjoy.

Between Bouljam and Agoudal

The road linking these two towns is unpaved and bumpy. It’s doable in a normal 2WD car but it will take a long time and you must be extra careful. The scenery is amazing though and traffic is minimal. There are rumours that soon this section will be paved, so let us know in the comments if you have driven it recently!

Worth a detour

Rose Valley

The Valley of Roses is a picturesque and fertile area renowned for its cultivation of fragrant roses, particularly in and around the town of Kelaat M’Gouna. It is part of the greater Draa-Tafilalet region in the foothills of the Atlas Mountains, close to Boumalne Dadès.

The valley is known for growing a special type of rose, Rosa Damascena (Damask rose), which has been cultivated in the region for centuries. These roses are harvested to produce a variety of products, including rosewater, essential oils, and perfumes.

The valley itself is stunning, with terraced fields of roses stretching across the landscape, interspersed with orchards of fruit trees, especially almonds and figs. The contrast between the lush green valley and the rugged mountains of the High Atlas makes it a scenic destination for nature lovers.

Introduction

The Monkey Fingers is a scenic trek through the Dadès Gorge region, specifically in an area known for its unique rock formations that resemble the fingers of a monkey’s hand. These formations are located near the village of Tamellalt in the High Atlas Mountains.

The hike offers an exciting combination of dramatic landscapes, towering red rock canyons, and narrow gorges, making it a popular destination for adventurous travellers and nature lovers. Hikers can explore the rock formations and the surrounding valleys, discovering small Berber villages, and beautiful viewpoints over the gorge. The area is also dotted with kasbahs (traditional mud-brick fortresses), adding a cultural dimension to the experience.

How to get there?

From Marrakech or Ouarzazate

You can start your journey from Marrakech, which is about 300 km from the Dadès Valley. Most people combine a trip to the Dadès Valley with a tour of the Sahara Desert.

Ouarzazate is closer to the Dadès Valley (about 140 km) and is often a stopover point. Many travellers visit Ouarzazate for its proximity to both the Dadès and Todra Gorges.

By Car

Renting a car is the most flexible way to travel. From Marrakech, take the N9 road towards Ouarzazate, passing through the scenic Tizi n’Tichka Pass in the Atlas Mountains. From Ouarzazate, continue on the N10 road towards Boumalne Dadès (the town nearest to the Monkey Fingers).

From Boumalne Dadès, you’ll drive a further 25 km into the Dadès Gorge until you reach the village of Tamellalt, the starting point for the Monkey Fingers hike.

By Bus

You can take a bus from Marrakech or Ouarzazate to Boumalne Dadès. The journey from Marrakech takes about 7–8 hours, while from Ouarzazate, it’s roughly 2–3 hours. Popular operators include CTM or Supratours.

Once you arrive in Boumalne Dadès, you can hire a taxi or arrange for local transport to Tamellalt and the entrance to the Monkey Fingers trail.

By Tour

Many tour operators offer guided trips to the Dadès Valley from Marrakech or Ouarzazate, often as part of multi-day desert tours that include the Sahara, Ait Benhaddou, and Todra Gorge. These tours will handle all transportation and logistics, making it a more convenient but less flexible option if you want to explore at your own pace.  

The best time to visit

Plan your trip in spring or autumn for the best weather conditions.  While winter is generally mild, it can get quite cold at night and in the mornings, with temperatures occasionally dropping close to freezing, especially at higher elevations. Summer can be hot, but temperatures are milder in the mountains.

You should always have some warmer layers, regardless of the season. In the end, it’s mountains there!

Where to stay?

If you decide to spend a night in the area, you won’t have problems finding a place to stay. A good choice might be Monkey Fingers House by Fatima Mellal.

How long is the hike?

The distance of the loop is about 8 kilometers and you should plan at least 3 hours to walk it comfortably.

Do you need a guide?

You may want to hire a local guide from the village to lead the hike, especially if you’re unfamiliar with this kind of activity. A guide can also help you up in case you choose to follow the trail that goes to the top of the rocks and involves some scrambling. Ask about one at your accommodation.

For hiking enthusiasts, there is absolutely no need to hire a guide. Just get yourself a good offline map such as Mapy.CZ to check your position on the trail in case of doubts.

The hike around Monkey Fingers

I parked the car at the roadside near Imzzoudar and walked through Ait Arbi village. Very atmospheric place but it looked like abandoned, without any inhabitants visible around it. I was following the trail anti-clockwise in the direction of the rocks.

Once you get to the bottom of the rocks, you will need to make a decision. There are 3 routes to choose from. The first leads along the base of the rocks, with interesting formations on your right side. The second one goes in the middle of the gorge, while the third one climbs up the rocks for better panoramic views. Eventually, they all merge.

I chose the trail that goes higher and includes climbing on top of the rock mass. There were sections where I had to think where to put my feet but if you are reasonably fit and you don’t mind pulling yourself up, then it will be alright. The views from up there were simply incredible!

At some point, I met a group walking in the opposite direction with a guide and he gave me some advice on how to descend to rejoin the track going at the base of the rocks. BTW, he was doing the track in flip flops. People never stop amusing me.

After merging with another track, the rest was a piece of cake. At the crossroads of trails, I turned left and then left again into a beautiful valley with a dried riverbed. Soon, I returned to the car. Very glad and satisfied that I decided to go for that hike! Well worth it.

Sidi Boubker

A bit further down the road towards Boumalne Dades in another gorge – Sidi Boubker. You can park the car near Hotel Atlas Gorge Dades and walk down. On my visit in November, there was a lot of water in the gorge so I was not able to explore it deeper.

Introduction

Zaouiat Ahansal is a small, remote village in Morocco’s High Atlas Mountains. It gets its name from the local “zaouia” (religious school or monastery) founded by Sidi Said Ahansal, a revered Islamic scholar and saint.

The village’s religious roots date back to the 16th century when it became a spiritual hub for the surrounding Berber tribes. Sidi Said Ahansal, the founder of the zaouia, established a religious order that drew followers from the High Atlas region. The influence of the Ahansal family extended over centuries, and the local zaouia was both a centre of learning and a point of unity for the local Amazigh (Berber) communities. Today, the religious significance of the village remains a key part of its identity.

Zaouiat Ahansal is set in a dramatic mountainous landscape, surrounded by towering peaks, rugged valleys, and winding rivers, including the Assif Ahansal River. The area is part of Morocco’s central High Atlas range and is known for its pristine nature, making it a popular destination for adventure tourists, climbers, and hikers.

The population of Zaouiat Ahansal is predominantly Amazigh, and the local culture is deeply rooted in traditional Berber customs, language, and ways of life. The Berber people have preserved their unique customs, dialects, and cultural practices for generations in the face of modern challenges. Traditional festivals, clothing, and crafts remain vital parts of everyday life, though they slowly adapt to the contemporary world.

In recent years, Zaouiat Ahansal has become an emerging destination for eco-tourism and adventure travel. Visitors come to explore the untouched natural beauty of the High Atlas, engage in trekking, mountain biking, and rock climbing, or experience the quiet, traditional life of the Amazigh people. Due to its relative isolation, the village has managed to retain much of its authenticity, making it attractive to tourists seeking less commercialized experiences.

When it comes to rock climbing, nearby Taghia Gorge has gained a reputation as one of the premier destinations in the country. The steep limestone walls offer a variety of climbing routes, ranging from technical sport climbs to long, multi-pitch trad routes. Due to the complexity and difficulty of many of the climbs, Taghia attracts serious climbers, including professionals from around the world. The routes vary in difficulty, but many are highly challenging, with climbs often exceeding 300 meters. The gorge is often compared to renowned climbing locations in Europe and has been described as a “paradise” for big-wall climbers. The area was relatively unknown in the global climbing community until the late 20th century when international climbers began exploring the region. The remoteness means that amenities and modern conveniences are limited, adding to the appeal for those looking for an immersive adventure in a natural, undeveloped setting.

How to get there?

Getting to Zaouiat Ahansal, a remote village in the High Atlas Mountains of Morocco, requires some planning due to its isolated location and lack of direct transportation options. However, the journey offers a rewarding experience through Morocco’s rugged mountain landscapes. The most common starting point for travellers heading to Zaouiat Ahansal is Marrakech, the nearest major city with an international airport and well-developed infrastructure. From Marrakech, you have two main options: renting a car or using public transport, though the latter will involve multiple steps.

By Car

Renting a car is the most flexible and efficient way to reach Zaouiat Ahansal, as it gives you control over the journey and allows you to explore the surrounding area at your own pace. The drive from Marrakech takes around 5-7 hours, depending on road conditions and stops.

From Marrakech, head northeast toward the town of Azilal. You’ll follow the R210 road toward Demnate, then take the R304 road, which passes through stunning mountainous terrain. After reaching Azilal, continue toward Ait M’Hamed and head to Zaouiat Ahansal via the rural R302 road. This road becomes narrower and more challenging as you ascend into the High Atlas.

By Public Transport

While public transport options are limited, combining buses and taxis to reach Zaouiat Ahansal is possible, though this will take longer and may require flexibility.

Firstly, take a bus from Marrakech to Azilal. Several bus companies operate this route, and the journey takes about 4-5 hours. Buses to Azilal leave from the main bus station in Marrakech (Gare Routière).

Secondly, find a shared taxi from Azilal to Ait M’Hamed. The grand taxis are often crowded and less comfortable than buses but are commonly used for travel in rural Morocco.

From Ait M’Hamed, there may be local taxis or 4×4 vehicles available to take you to Zaouiat Ahansal, though this can depend on demand. Alternatively, you can hire a guide and arrange a multi-day trek from Ait M’Hamed or another nearby village to reach Zaouiat Ahansal, which can be an adventurous option.

The best time to visit

Plan your trip in spring or autumn for the best weather conditions. Winter can bring snow and ice to the higher mountain roads, making them difficult to navigate. Summer can be hot, but temperatures are milder in the mountains.

You should always have some warmer layers, regardless of the season. In the end, it’s mountains there!

How long to stay there?

One day is enough if you just plan to drive to Taghia Gorge and do some hiking there. You should plan some extra time if you are a climbing enthusiast.

Where to stay?

There are some basic guesthouses in Zaouiat Ahansal, and staying with local families is also an option. I spent the night in AUBERGE Kasbah Ouad Ahanssal. The location is magnificent and so are the views around the property. The shower always had hot water and the dinner was delicious.

What to do in Taghia Gorge?

Passage Berbere

A wonderful place to discover but not for people who are quickly affected by dizziness or are afraid of exposition. It is better to start the adventure in the morning if the weather is mild and the path is dry. Good shoes and a warm layer of clothing are a must. Avoid going there solo in case something goes wrong. Taking a guide might be a smart idea. Otherwise, follow the trail which is visible on Mapy.cz, as shown below. The first section is of medium difficulty and involves some easy scrambling. Then, the proper Passage Berbere is something that I didn’t care to cross. It was made with sticks and stones during the colonization of Morocco so that the Moroccan soldiers could escape the enemy army.

Drive from Zaouiat Ahansal to Taghia

The dirt road linking these two villages is very narrow so you may have some problems if there is a car coming from the opposite direction. The distance is about 9 kilometers and the views are simply breathtaking with you being surrounded on both sides by the high walls of rock. In good weather conditions, the road is passable in a standard 2WD car (I did it in a Renault Clio). When I was passing through some village en route, there were quite aggressive kids, wanting money and hitting the car windows with their hands. Moments like this make me sceptic about travelling to Morocco but luckily soon happy feelings take over when I see the landscapes. If that happens to you, just keep the door of the car locked and slowly move forward. Do not give those kids any money!

Canyon Tazart

On the way back from Taghia, look for some small village with a few houses on your left. It’s a good idea to make a stop there and check out Canyon Tazart. Just follow the dried river bed and double-check your position on Mapy.CZ.

The gorge is completely different from the one around Passage Berbere and walking felt was much safer. At some point, as it was getting late, I decided to turn around and return taking the same path. You should definitely avoid this place in case of rainy weather due to the risk of flash floods.

Other hikes

There are other hiking opportunities in the area, for one or multiday adventures involving peaks over 3.000 meters above sea level. However, the trails are not marked and it’s highly recommended to hire a guide or at least consult one before setting off.