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In Malaysia June 18, 2024

Kinabatangan: three days river adventure

The Kinabatangan River, located in Sabah, Malaysian Borneo, is the second longest river in Malaysia, stretching approximately 560 kilometres from its headwaters in the mountains to its mouth at the Sulu Sea. This river is renowned for its incredible biodiversity and rich ecosystems, making it a prime destination for nature lovers and wildlife enthusiasts.

The river and its surrounding floodplain are home to a wide array of wildlife, including some of Borneo’s most iconic species such as orangutans, pygmy elephants, proboscis monkeys, and a diverse range of bird species. The region also supports various reptiles, amphibians, and plant species, contributing to its status as a biodiversity hotspot.

How to get to Kinabatangan River?

Getting to Kinabatangan typically involves travelling to Sandakan, a city in the Malaysian state of Sabah on the island of Borneo. From there, most people decide to join an organized tour including accommodation, food and activities around the river. The recommended duration is 3 days and 2 nights.

By Air

Several airlines operate flights to Sandakan, including Malaysia Airlines and AirAsia, with direct flights available from Kota Kinabalu (the capital of Sabah) and Kuala Lumpur (the capital of Malaysia).

By Land

There are bus services from Kota Kinabalu to Sandakan passing through Kundasang and Sepilok. The journey takes about 6-8 hours.

For ticket booking, visit Easybook or 12Go.Asia

When to go?

The best time to visit the Kinabatangan River is during the dry season, which typically falls between March and October. The weather during these months is generally more favourable with less rainfall, making it easier to explore the rainforest (the trails are less muddy) and enjoy outdoor activities. The animals are also more likely to come to the river to drink water. This increases the chances of seeing orangutans, pygmy elephants, proboscis monkeys, and a variety of bird species.

How long to stay?

Most tour operators recommend the package of 3 days and 2 nights and I also think it’s an optimal option. One day shorter would feel like not enough and you will be missing out on some activities such as jungle walks but I also didn’t feel like I would like to extend it for another night.

The tour with Uncle Tan Wildlife Adventures

There is a variety of operators offering similar packages and itineraries but what is different is the quality of accommodation and food. I selected the offer of Uncle Tan Wildlife Adventure s (3D 2N) and will describe my experiences and impressions with them. It isn’t a resort with nice bungalows and all that, but this is exactly why I made my choice to stay there.

Prices

The price for the standard 3D/2N trip is 572.40 RM per person. Extended stay is possible at the price of 172.80 RM per person per extra day.

The price for the 2D/1N trip is 399.60 RM per person.

Children who are 7 years old and below are given discounted prices:

The 3D/2N trip children’s price is 286.20 RM.

The 2D/1N trip children’s price is 199.80 RM.

Children who are 2 years old and below stay for free.

The above-mentioned prices are from May 2024. Please always double-check them with Uncle Tan Wildlife Adventures directly.

Transport

The meeting point is at the Orangutan Centre in Sepilok and the price covers transportation by van to and from the Kinabatangan River, transportation by boat to and from the camp and all river Safaris.

You need to get on your own to Sepilok and pay extra in case you don’t come back there after the tour but continue your travel towards Semporna.

Accommodation

At Camp, lodging is provided in elevated huts. A lightweight mattress and mosquito net will be provided. Every hut is shared by a few people so don’t expect privacy.

Food

All meals are cooked on-site and included in the tour package. These are served as a buffet. Tea and coffee are available all day and bottled drinking water and fizzy drinks are sold by their staff co-operative.

Bathing and toilet

Water for bathing and washing is pumped from the river to the bathhouse. Swimming in the river is not possible due to the presence of crocodiles. There are two toilets provided in two different areas of the camp and you can get toilet paper from the reception. Don’t forget to bring it back afterwards as otherwise it will be stolen by monkeys.

Electricity and mobile signal

They use a small generator for lighting and charging of batteries from 7.00 PM till midnight. I had a Digi SIM card in my smartphone and the signal was very weak in the common hut and slightly better closer to the riverbank.

3 days 2 nights itinerary

Day One

I was met near the Orangutan Center by the representative of the tour operator at 1 PM. Soon, more participants arrived and we were briefed about the plan for the rest of the day.

We were taken in a minibus to the Bukit Garam jetty at the Kinabatangan River from where we continued the journey to the camp by boat. We could spot quite many crocodiles on the way. Upon arrival at about 5 PM, we were greeted with tea and coffee and then allocated the open-air huts, where we could find only mattresses and mosquito nets. Simple, but enough 🙂

The dinner was served in the form of a buffet at 8 PM but before that, we met the rest of the staff working at the camp. They explained to us the detailed plan for the remaining time at the camp.

On that day we had one more attraction left: a night river safari which started about 9 PM. We didn’t see much though, just some birds and owls.

The night was really hot and I was sweating even lying down in the open-air hut.

Day Two

The day started at 6:30 AM with an early morning safari. Tea and coffee were available in the common area. We boarded the boats and took the same route as the night before. Again we didn’t see that much. Mostly monkeys.

Then, we came back to have breakfast and shortly after we played some volleyball. It was really fun even though the humidity was insane!

After that, it was a time for jungle walk. It was a really short one but luckily we were able to see one orangutan sitting high on the tree. Another cool thing to see was the spider which blended perfectly well with the color of the tree that it was sitting on.

Once the walk was finished, I flew a drone and discovered a very sad view. The area around the river is one huge palm oil plantation. I wasn’t surprised that we couldn’t see that much wildlife and that we always went on river safari to the same place. It was just the only relatively forested place left.

After lunch, we had a few hours of free time but we were also offered to join an extra activity: a fishing trip (paid extra: 60 RM per person). I decided to go for it as I don’t like sitting in one place doing nothing and I didn’t have much experience with fishing so wanted to learn something new. Unfortunately, we were caught by some rain but that is how it is in Borneo. You never know when you will get wet 🙂

I managed to catch 4 or 5 small catfish, but my fishing rod got stuck many times in shallow waters. Anyway, I was happy to join this activity and would recommend you to do the same. I will for sure repeat fishing one day!

In the afternoon we went to the third river safari and again it was to the same place. We mostly saw different kinds of monkeys and once it was already after sunset, then plenty of huge bats (flying foxes) could be spotted in the sky. Impressive and very memorable view!

After dinner, we went for a night walk and saw some spiders, frogs and bugs. The guide was trying hard which was appreciated but unfortunately, we couldn’t find slow loris or tarsier.

Day three

We had breakfast and then it was time to pack our bags and board the boat back to the jetty. There, we split into two vans – one going back to Sandakan and another one heading towards Lahad Datu. Those heading to Lahad Datu, including me, had to pay extra for the transport (50 RM per person).

2 days 1 night itinerary

You will do a night boat ride on the day you arrive at the camp and a morning boat ride the next day. After breakfast, you will leave the camp at about 10 AM.

General impressions

I’m glad I decided to join the tour with Uncle Tan and I cannot say a bad word about the organization as everything went according to plan and the staff working at the camp were very friendly. However, I wouldn’t repeat it.

The reason is very simple. I was quite shocked to see the destruction of the area and deforestation in favour of palm oil plantations. Don’t expect to see some wonderful wild areas full of animals. There is a thin line of trees along the river but you can see through it. And everything beyond is nothing more than palm oil plantations. Some years ago it must have been a wonderful place, now it’s just the skeleton left…

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In Malaysia June 17, 2024

Sepilok: orangutans, sun bears and rainforest

Sepilok, located in the Malaysian state of Sabah on the island of Borneo, is renowned primarily for the Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre and hiking opportunities at the Rainforest Discovery Centre.

How to get to Sepilok?

Getting to Sepilok typically involves travelling to Sandakan, a city in the Malaysian state of Sabah on the island of Borneo.

By Air

Several airlines operate flights to Sandakan, including Malaysia Airlines and AirAsia, with direct flights available from Kota Kinabalu (the capital of Sabah) and Kuala Lumpur (the capital of Malaysia). To get from Sandakan Airport to Sepilok the best way is to use the ride-hailing service, Grab.

By Land

There are bus services from Kota Kinabalu to Sandakan passing through Kundasang and Sepilok. The journey takes about 6-8 hours. Ask the driver to drop you off at Sepilok.

Alternatively, you can also rent a scooter in Sandakan and just ride to Sepilok for a day trip which is exactly what I did.

For ticket booking, visit Easybook or 12Go.Asia

When to go?

The best time to visit Sepilok is during the dry season, which typically falls between March and October. The weather during these months is generally more favourable with less rainfall, making it easier to explore the rainforest (the trails are less muddy) and enjoy outdoor activities.

How long to stay?

It depends if you are planning to hike the Kabili Trail within the Rainforest Discovery Centre. If yes, it will take you a minimum of 5-6 hours and you won’t be able to fit much more into your daily schedule. Therefore, I would plan 2 days in the Sepilok area to comfortably visit the rest of the sights on the second day.

If you don’t plan to hike the Kabili Trail, then one full day is perfectly enough.

How to get around?

Three major sites are located very close to each other, within walking distance: Bornean Sun Bear Conservation Centre, Sepilok Orang Utan Sanctuary and Rainforest Discovery Centre.

To get to Labuk Bay Proboscis Monkey Sanctuary you will need a taxi or a rented scooter. Inquire at your accommodation or check on the mobile app – Grab.

What to do in Sepilok?

Bornean Sun Bear Conservation Centre

The sun bear, the smallest bear species worldwide, gets its name from the golden band of fur that encircles their necks. Sun bears can be found in Borneo, eastern India, southern China, Myanmar, Laos, and Vietnam, among other parts of Southeast Asia. With their large claws, they can easily climb tall trees in pursuit of beehives. Additionally, they manage the damaging termite population in the forest, which is an essential component of the bears’ diet.

They are the second most endangered bear species in the world and the centre takes good care of them. Before being released into the wild, a new newcomer will learn how to forage, make nests, climb, and interact with others. The gift shop plays a film that educates customers about the important work of the centre.

The entrance ticket costs 50 RMB for non-Malaysians and 10 RMB for Malaysian adults.

Sepilok, Sabah, Borneo — Bornean Sun Bear Conservation Centre

Sepilok Orangutan Sanctuary

The Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre was established in 1964 by Barbara Harrison, an Englishwoman, who worked in collaboration with the government of Sabah. The centre was founded to rehabilitate orphaned and injured orangutans so they could eventually return to the wild.

Initially, the centre focused on rescuing young orangutans who were displaced due to logging, deforestation, and illegal pet trade. The early years involved significant efforts in raising awareness and educating the public about the plight of orangutans. Over the years, the rehabilitation process at Sepilok has evolved. Young orangutans are taught essential survival skills, including climbing and foraging, in a safe and controlled environment before they are gradually released into the forest.

Feedings at the platforms are at 10 AM and 3 PM, and last 30 to 50 minutes. Tickets are valid for one day, so you can see two feedings with the same ticket. I visited in the morning and the place was extremely crowded with people which took away most of the charm of this place. I felt like I was in some kind of a zoo…

Rainforest Discovery Centre

In addition to eight canopy towers connected by walkways that offer you a bird’s-eye view of the treetops, there are many gentle walking routes. Get a map at the ticket office. Join a night walk for increased chances of spotting tarsiers, slow loris, civets, flying squirrels, and other nocturnal creatures.

Regarding the trails, a Forest Reserve Entry Permit is needed for the 16-kilometre round-trip Kabili Trail. You can easily get it at the ticket office for 35 RMB. The main difficulty of the trail is weather humidity and high temperature, so take plenty of water on you and some clothes for change. In May there weren’t any leeches. Along the path, there are three shelters where you can take a rest. The trail is well marked and in my opinion, there is no need for a guide but they can be hired if needed.

The Sepilok Laut Reception Centre at the end of the trail is reached by walking for 1 km on a boardwalk through the mangrove. You can even spend a night there but need to plan it up front and bring enough water and food. Alternatively, it is possible to arrange a boat pick-up from the centre to Sandakan, but you have to do it a couple of days in advance. Otherwise, you just have to do the trail as an out-and-back day trip.

Sepilok, Borneo — Entrance to the Kabili Trail

Labuk Bay Proboscis Monkey Sanctuary

The Labuk Bay Proboscis Monkey Sanctuary is situated inside an oil palm field. The 400-acre property was set to be cleared for the development of oil palm in the mid-1990s when the owner learned that proboscis monkeys were residing in the mangrove forest. He chose to keep this little area of woodland intact as a monkey refuge.

Labuk Bay’s environment is fragmented, with small areas of mangrove forest encircled by plantations. The monkeys are fed extra food because there isn’t enough of it. Somehow I had the feeling that the story of this place fits very well with the general story of Borneo and the fact that wild animals are pushed out of their natural habitats and can only survive on those small, controlled sections… just as a tourist attraction to generate money. That’s why after visiting Sepilok Orangutan Sanctuary and Bornean Sun Bear Conservation Centre, I felt quite depressed and decided not to come here. I hoped to see proboscis monkeys truly wild, but maybe I was too naive.

This privately run sanctuary has two observation platforms. Feeding takes place at Platform A at 9.30 AM and 2.30 PM and at Platform B at 11.30 AM and 4.30 PM. At most feeding times groups of proboscis monkeys descend from the nearby forest and mangroves and head to the wooden platform for a free meal.

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In Brunei June 16, 2024

Brunei Darussalam: what to do outside of the capital?

Nestled on the lush northern coast of Borneo, Brunei Darussalam is an interesting place often overshadowed by its larger Southeast Asian neighbours. This small nation offers a unique blend of opulent history, rich cultural heritage, and pristine natural beauty. Governed by one of the world’s last remaining absolute monarchies, Brunei stands out with its harmonious blend of traditional Malay customs and Islamic principles, seamlessly woven into the fabric of modern life. From the grandeur of the Sultan Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque to the serene waters of Kampong Ayer, and the untouched wilderness of Ulu Temburong National Park, Brunei promises an adventurous journey!

A brief history

The area now known as Bandar Seri Begawan was historically a centre of power for the Bruneian Empire, which reached its peak in the 15th and 16th centuries. It was a vital trading hub in Southeast Asia, engaging in commerce with China, the Malay Peninsula, and other regions. Brunei was well known for its rich sources of exotic jungle and sea products like camphor, spices, agarwood, lakawood, resins, sago, birds’ next, wax, honey, tortoise and turtle shell as well as its pearls.

Early settlements in the area were part of Kampong Ayer, a historic water village along the Brunei River. This area has been inhabited for over a thousand years.

The reign of Sultan Bolkiah (1485 – 1524) was known as the golden age of Brunei. During his reign, the sultanate not only covered the entire Borneo Island but even reached as far as Luzon in the Philippines. Its importance further grew when Malacca fell into the hands of the Portuguese in 1511.

Bandar Seri Begawan, Brunei — Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque at night

In the late 19th century, Brunei became a British protectorate. During this period, the capital, then known as Brunei Town, saw infrastructural developments, although it remained relatively small and traditional.

The town was occupied by Japanese forces from 1941 to 1945. During this time, much of the town was destroyed by Allied bombing, necessitating significant post-war reconstruction.

After World War II, Brunei Town underwent substantial rebuilding and modernization. In 1970, it was officially renamed Bandar Seri Begawan in honour of Sultan Omar Ali Saifuddien III, who abdicated in 1967 but was instrumental in the country’s modernization efforts.

The discovery of oil and natural gas significantly boosted Brunei’s economy in the mid-20th century, leading to rapid urban development. The city developed modern infrastructure, including roads, buildings, and public amenities. Despite modernization, Bandar Seri Begawan has maintained its cultural heritage, particularly in Kampong Ayer, where traditional stilt houses are preserved.

How to get to Brunei?

To get to Brunei, you can consider the following options:

By Air

The fastest and most convenient way to reach Brunei is by flying. Needless to say, it’s also the most expensive option, even if you take a short flight from Kota Kinabalu.

By Land

Travelling by land is possible if you’re coming from neighbouring Malaysia. There are bus services from Miri or Limbang in Sarawak and Kota Kinabalu in Sabah. This journey from Kota Kinabalu can be even 10 hours long and involves crossing the border 4 times so get your passport ready for plenty of new stamps.

By Sea

Ferries operate between Labuan, a Malaysian island, and Muara, Brunei’s main port. The ferry ride takes about 1.5 to 2 hours. Check the schedule beforehand as the connections aren’t daily.

For ticket booking, visit Easybook or 12Go.Asia

When to go?

The best time to visit Brunei is during the dry season, typically from January to May. During these months, the weather is generally warm and less humid, with lower rain chances, making it ideal for outdoor activities and sightseeing. In other months you can expect higher humidity and more rain but still, you will have no problems with getting around.

Where to stay?

I stayed 3 nights in a private single room at Co. Living Hostel Bandar. The bathroom was shared and clean but unfortunately only one for the whole hostel. The internet was really fast and there was a small desk in the room, making it perfect for online work. The location is within walking distance of the waterfront and Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque.

For the last 2 nights, I moved to EZ Lodgings. There were 2 shared bathrooms and the room was quite spacious. The location is near The Gadong Mall and the main tourist attractions are within 10 minutes taxi ride.

You will find much more options on Agoda than on B ooking.com

How to get around?

To visit attractions located outside of Bandar Seri Begawan, you will need a rental car. I got my Toyota Vios from D.Feena for 55 BND per day + 100 BND refundable deposit. You can contact them at defeenamarketing@gmail.com or +673 877 8898 (also on Whatsapp).

What to see outside of Bandar Seri Begawan?

Ulu Temburong National Park

Established in 1991, the park spans approximately 50,000 hectares and is accessible primarily by boat, which adds to its remote and untouched allure. To get there, you need to sign up for an organized tour, something that I don’t like doing too often unless there is no other way.

Having checked different options, I selected the tour offered by Freme. They seem to have the most experience and from the price perspective, it’s the same for all operators. Unfortunately, it isn’t cheap as a day tour costs 155 BND.

I was picked up at 7:45 AM from the Gadong area and then we made a few more stops to pick up more tourists. Once everyone was on board, we left Bandar Seri Begawan and crossed Sultan Haji Omar ‘Ali Saifuddien Bridge to Temburong District.

After arrival at Freme Rainforest Lodge, we got morning tea and some snacks and soon safety briefing followed. We got life jackets and jumped on the longboat to be transported upstream to the start of the hike up to Canopy Tower.

The boat ride was nice indeed, but nothing too spectacular. Not if you have visited some other national parks in Southeast Asia before, for example, Taman Negara.

The Canopy Walkway was a bit different from other similar constructions that I have experienced in Malaysia. That one was very stable as it was all made from metal. We had to climb up on a ladder, then walk on a short bridge towards the highest point and then descend. Nice experience but again nothing super thrilling.

Brunei, Asia — Ulu Temburong National Park

From there we went to the boat again and stopped at the waterfall. Disappointing place with little water and a small pool including a so-called “fish spa”. Once you put your feet in the water, small fish come over to nibble away your dead skin. Can be tickly! It must be an attraction if you do it for the first time, but I have already experienced it in Thailand, Sri Lanka and many other places in the region.

Then we came back to the boat again and soon were dropped out at the riverbank for the last activity. Backpacks and our shoes stayed in the boat as we jumped inside the rubber tubes and went with the river flow back to the lodge. It was probably the best part of that trip but again somewhat disappointing as it felt too short.

Some people did zip lining but for those who did tubing, it was not included in the package. Such a pity. The lunch was fine, a regular Asian buffet.

After lunch, the bus took us back to Bandar Seri Begawan and we arrived about 4 PM. Quite early for the whole day trip! Overall, everything was well organized but I had the feeling that there is a potential for more or it should be just around 50% cheaper for what it was. Not something that I would like to repeat.

Bukit Patoi Recreational Park

The best hiking route in the Temburong area. You can make it a loop, which is about 4 kilometres long. Going up can be challenging especially in high humidity, to take lots of water! The track can be slippery, especially after rain. Frequent panels show the distance remaining to the peak.

Sultan Haji Omar ‘Ali Saifuddien Bridge

This dual-carriageway bridge in Brunei links the country’s semi-exclave of Temburong with the mainland by spanning Brunei Bay. At thirty kilometres, it is the longest bridge in Southeast Asia.

The bridge’s construction began in 2014, and although it was initially scheduled to be finished and opened by the end of 2019, it opened in March 2020 instead.

The bridge was renamed the Sultan Haji Omar ‘Ali Saifuddien Bridge on July 14, 2020, the day of Sultan Haji Hassanal Bolkiah’s 74th birthday. The reason was to honour the late Sultan’s father, Sultan Haji Omar ‘Ali Saifuddien Saadul Khairi Waddien, who is largely recognized as the architect of modern Brunei.

Muara Beach and Meragang Beach

The popular weekend getaway at Muara Beach Recreational Park is well-liked by locals. It is a nice beach, but like many beaches in Borneo, it is covered in driftwood and other floating debris from the sea. Picnic tables are available.

Meragang Beach is located further to the west. There is a parking and some street vendors near where the Meragang River flows into the South China Sea. The sandflies can be a problem, so spray yourself with insect repellent before going to the beach.

Taman Warisan Tasek Merimbun

The largest lake in Brunei, which is home to a diverse range of birds. Nice place but seems to be quite run down. There is a short concrete walkway along its bank.

Lalak Lake National Park

The area around the lake is a relaxing place good for bird watching and walking on a boardwalk. It’s quiet in the morning but you can see local people fishing in the afternoon.

Wasai Wong Kadir Recreational Park

It takes around 20 minutes to get to the waterfalls. Nothing too impressive in terms of size but the pool is big enough for a swim. The place can get busy at weekends.

Teraja Longhouse

The long house is mainly visited by those heading to two nearby waterfalls: Wasai Teraja and Wasai Belulok. You will pay a few dollars for parking and a few more to look around the house. There are lots of historical photos and small locally-made crafts to purchase.

Wasai Teraja (waterfall)

The trail starts just behind the longhouse and it’s a nice short jungle trek. You will need to cross the river a few times before reaching the waterfall. The whole journey is about 45 minutes one way.

Wasai Belulok (waterfall)

Challenging trek and the path is sometimes hard to find. However, after reaching there, most probably you will have the waterfall all to yourself. The journey takes around 40 minutes one way. Be careful not to get lost!

Billionth Barrel Monument

The monument was built in 1991 and commemorates the billionth barrel of oil produced in the onshore oil field in Seria.

Seria Energy Lab

An interactive exhibition about the oil & gas industry managed by Brunei Shell Petroleum. They have lots of activities for children. Unfortunately, as of May 2024, it is closed for renovation without any clear information on when it is going to reopen.

Masjid Kampong Pandan

The mosque was opened in 1996 and can hold up to 1,100 individuals in single assemblage.

Pantai Ku Ceria (KB Beach)

Another mediocre beach in Brunei, however, if you are looking for one, it’s still better than many others.

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In Brunei June 14, 2024

Bandar Seri Begawan: what to do in the capital of Brunei Darussalam?

Nestled on the northern coast of Borneo, this charming capital city of Brunei Darussalam is a fascinating blend of rich cultural heritage, stunning Islamic architecture, and modern urban development. Whether you’re wandering through the streets of the city centre, exploring the historical water village of Kampong Ayer, or marvelling at the grandeur of the Sultan Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque, Bandar Seri Begawan promises a unique and memorable travel experience.

A brief history

The area now known as Bandar Seri Begawan was historically a centre of power for the Bruneian Empire, which reached its peak in the 15th and 16th centuries. It was a vital trading hub in Southeast Asia, engaging in commerce with China, the Malay Peninsula, and other regions. Brunei was well known for its rich sources of exotic jungle and sea products like camphor, spices, agarwood, lakewood, resins, sago, birds’ nests, wax, honey, tortoise and turtle shell, and pearls.

Early settlements in the area were part of Kampong Ayer, a historic water village along the Brunei River. This area has been inhabited for over a thousand years.

The reign of Sultan Bolkiah (1485 – 1524) was known as the golden age of Brunei. During his reign, the sultanate not only covered the entire Borneo Island but even reached as far as Luzon in the Philippines. Its importance further grew when Malacca fell into the hands of the Portuguese in 1511.

In the late 19th century, Brunei became a British protectorate. During this period, the capital, then known as Brunei Town, saw infrastructural developments, although it remained relatively small and traditional.

The town was occupied by Japanese forces from 1941 to 1945. During this time, much of the town was destroyed by Allied bombing, necessitating significant post-war reconstruction.

After World War II, Brunei Town underwent substantial rebuilding and modernization. In 1970, it was officially renamed Bandar Seri Begawan in honour of Sultan Omar Ali Saifuddien III, who abdicated in 1967 but was instrumental in the country’s modernization efforts.

The discovery of oil and natural gas significantly boosted Brunei’s economy in the mid-20th century, leading to rapid urban development. The city developed modern infrastructure, including roads, buildings, and public amenities. Despite modernization, Bandar Seri Begawan has maintained its cultural heritage, particularly in Kampong Ayer, where traditional stilt houses are preserved.

How to get to Bandar Seri Begawan?

To get to Brunei, you can consider the following options:

By Air

The fastest and most convenient way to reach Brunei is by flying. Needless to say, it’s also the most expensive option, even if you take a short flight from Kota Kinabalu.

By Land

Travelling by land is possible if you’re coming from neighbouring Malaysia. There are bus services from Miri or Limbang in Sarawak and Kota Kinabalu in Sabah. This journey from Kota Kinabalu can be even 10 hours long and involves crossing the border 4 times so get your passport ready for plenty of new stamps.

By Sea

Ferries operate between Labuan, a Malaysian island, and Muara, Brunei’s main port. The ferry ride takes about 1.5 to 2 hours. Check the schedule beforehand as the connections aren’t daily.

For ticket booking, visit Easybook or 12Go.Asia

When to go?

The best time to visit Brunei is during the dry season, typically from January to May. During these months, the weather is generally warm and less humid, with lower rain chances, making it ideal for outdoor activities and sightseeing. In other months you can expect higher humidity and more rain but still, you will have no problems with getting around.

Where to stay?

I stayed 3 nights in a private single room at Co. Living Hostel Bandar. The bathroom was shared and clean but unfortunately only one for the whole hostel. The internet was really fast and there was a small desk in the room, making it perfect for online work. The location is within walking distance of the waterfront and Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque.

For the last 2 nights, I moved to EZ Lodgings. There were 2 shared bathrooms and the room was quite spacious. The location is near The Gadong Mall and the main tourist attractions are within 10 minutes taxi ride.

You will find much more options on Agoda than on B ooking.com

How to get around the town?

Many places can be easily visited on foot but if it’s too hot then without a doubt, the best option is to book a taxi. Grab doesn’t work in Brunei but there is another app called Dart.

What to do in Bandar Seri Begawan?

Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque

Finished in 1958 and named for the late father of the current sultan, the 28th Sultan of Brunei. The structure is encircled by an artificial lagoon that doubles as a reflecting pool. The interior design is quite opulent. The best Italian marble was used to create the floor and walls, the chandeliers were created in England, and the carpets were transported in from Saudi Arabia.

Visiting hours for non-muslim are as follows:

Saturday – Thursday: 8:30 AM – 12 NOON, 1:30 PM – 3:00 PM, 4:30 PM – 5:30 PM

Friday: Closed

Brunei Waterfront

The busiest place in town in the evenings. Locals come for prayer at the nearby mosque and then stroll along the waterfront, around the illuminated fountain and trees. It’s also a popular place for joggers and there are surprisingly many of them in Bangar Seri Begawan.

The popular way to experience the waterfront, water village and nearby forest is to take a boat ride. It should cost about 25 – 30 BND for a 1-hour tour, including a stop at Kampong Ayer.

We went first to see proboscis monkeys and then came back to pass through the floating village. It was a perfect ride and one of the highlights of my trip to Brunei. The boat driver wasn’t rushing and he was trying hard to show me the monkeys from the best angle.

Kampung Ayer (Water Village)

Kampong Ayer is a 30,000-person community made up of 42 connected stilt villages situated beside the Brunei River. It is considered to be the world’s largest stilt town. Half of Brunei’s Malay people lived here a century ago, and many still do now. The community has its fire department, police station, schools, and mosques. The Cultural and Tourism Gallery is free to visit and it presents the history, lifestyle and crafts of the Kampong Ayer people.

The best way to get to the village is by boat from the Brunei Waterfront. If you have a car, you can also cross the Raja Isteri Pengiran Anak Hajah Saleha Bridge and access the settlement from the backside.

Istana Nurul Iman

The Palace is the house of Brunei’s Sultan Hassanal Bolkiah and stands on the banks of the Brunei River. It is open for visitors only for three days a year, after the month of Ramadan.

Muslims have access to the palace for ten more days in Ramadan mainly for religious purposes. During the rest of the year, you can only admire the palace from the outside.

Royal Regalia Museum

The gifts presented by various heads of state to the sultan of Brunei are presented here. You will see the replica of Angkor Wat in Cambodia and a copy of the Grand Mosque of Mecca in Saudi Arabia crafted from precious metals and stones.

The sultan’s life is shown through family images and illustrative texts, from boyhood through military training at Sandhurst to his opulent wedding and active adult life.

Two chariots from the 1968 coronation and the 1992 Silver Jubilee parade of the sultan are also on exhibit. The chariot is escorted by a phalanx of traditionally dressed, headless mannequins that symbolize those in attendance that day.

Brunei History Center

The museum documents the whole history of Brunei from the settlement, and colonialism to modern history. It includes a collection of letters, a constitution gallery, and a section about spices. The entrance is free.

Teng Yun Temple

The oldest Chinese temple in Bandar Seri Begawan was constructed in the 1960s and is accessible to both worshipers and outsiders.

Jame’ Asr Hassanil Bolkiah Mosque

Constructed in 1992 to commemorate the 25 years of the sultan’s rule, Brunei’s biggest mosque towers over its surroundings with its four minarets covered in terrazzo tiles.

Tasek Lama Recreational Park

There are designated trails that lead to picnic spots, waterfalls, and a tower atop a hill that provides views of the surrounding forest and the city. For a longer walk, head towards Bukit Laur and Bukit Markucing and then descend towards Jalan Subok and order a taxi via Dart to take you back to town. Such a trip should take between 2 – 3 hours. Wear appropriate footwear and take a lot of water.

Gadong Night Market

Some stalls sell relatively cheap meals, not necessarily very delicious but would offer a decent taste of the local food. It’s a nice place to hang out, especially given the city’s general lack of nightlife.

Maritime Museum

The main room houses an impressive ship skeleton lined with ceramic vessels. The ship was found in 1997 and is thought to have sailed in the late 15th or early 16th century from China, but when it got closer to Brunei, terrible weather struck.

The museum is located at Kota Batu, 5 km east of the city centre.

Malay Technology Museum

The museum is full of exhibits about the Malay way of life, living on stilts, different industries and lifestyles adapted to survive on the swamps. Interesting and worth visiting.

Mausoleum of Sultan Bolkiah

Quiet and peaceful place with a small but interesting interpretive centre to learn about the history of Kota Batu as the first capital of Brunei,

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In Vietnam May 19, 2024

Nha Trang: a guide to Vietnam’s premier coastal city

Nha Trang is located in Khanh Hoa Province on the south-central coast of Vietnam. It’s a popular tourist destination, famous for its long stretch of sandy beach, turquoise waters, and a wide array of water activities like snorkelling, scuba diving, and boat trips to nearby islands.

A brief history

The area that is now Nha Trang was originally inhabited by the Champa Kingdom, an ancient civilization that controlled much of central and southern Vietnam from the 2nd century until the 15th century. The Po Nagar Cham Towers, which still stand today, are remnants of this period and were constructed between the 7th and 12th centuries.

In the 17th century, the Champa Kingdom declined, and the Vietnamese gradually took control of the region. Nha Trang became part of the Nguyen Dynasty’s territories.

During the late 19th century, Vietnam became part of French Indochina, and Nha Trang began to develop under French influence. The city’s development included urban planning and the introduction of new architectural styles. In the early 20th century, Nha Trang gained prominence as a coastal resort town. The French built several villas and vacation homes, enhancing its reputation as a seaside retreat.

During the Vietnam War (1955-1975), Nha Trang was an important strategic location due to its airbase and port. The city was a significant site for American military and logistical operations.

After the reunification of Vietnam in 1975, Nha Trang continued to develop, though it remained relatively quiet until the economic reforms of the late 1980s and early 1990s. These reforms led to an increase in tourism and investment.

How to get to Nha Trang?

To get to Nha Trang in Vietnam, you can either fly into Cam Ranh International Airport, which is the closest airport, or you can take a train or a bus from other cities in Vietnam like Ho Chi Minh City or Hanoi. The train journey offers scenic views, while buses are usually more affordable.

Trains are slightly faster than buses but you should expect about 8-10 hours of travelling from Ho Chi Minh City and over 24 hours from Hanoi.

Check your connections at 12Go.Asia

Nha Trang, Vietnam — Aerial view of Po Nagar Cham Towers

When to go?

The best time to visit Nha Trang in Vietnam is typically from April to August, during the dry season. This period offers sunny weather with lower chances of rain, making it ideal for enjoying the beaches and outdoor activities. However, keep in mind that Nha Trang can get crowded with tourists during peak season, so consider visiting during the shoulder months of January to April for fewer crowds and still pleasant weather.

Where to stay?

I stayed at Le Soleil Hotel where a standard double room cost me about 13 USD per night. It’s a budget place but very convenient. The beach promenade is within walking distance and they have underground parking for motorbikes.

How to get around the town?

Many places can be easily visited on foot but if it’s too hot then without a doubt, the best option is to rent a scooter. Ask for one at your accommodation. They will either have one or get in touch with someone who can deliver it to you within minutes.

Alternatively, if you don’t want to ride yourself, you can always order a taxi from a widely used and cheap Grab App.

What to do in Nha Trang?

Po Nagar Cham Towers

These magnificent towers were constructed between the 7th and the 12th centuries, and Buddhists from China, Vietnam, and the Cham people still regularly gather here to worship. The temple honours Yang Ino Po Nagar, the goddess of the Dua clan, which ruled over the southern region of the Cham empire.

This location may have been utilised for worship as early as the second century AD. After being destroyed by the invading Javanese in AD 774, the original timber structure was rebuilt in 784 with stones and bricks.

There were formerly more towers in the complex, but now there are just four. The most impressive is the 28-meter-tall North Tower, which has a vestibule, vaulted interior brickwork, and a terraced pyramidal roof. Parts of the vestibule walls and the sandstone doorposts are covered in inscriptions. Beneath the antechamber’s pyramidal roof are a gong and a drum. The goddess Uma, leaning back against a monstrous beast is depicted in a black stone statue in the 28-meter-tall main room.

If your timing is right, you may also witness a short performance with Champa dance and music.

Beach

Every vacation magazine features the city’s best feature, a 6-kilometre golden-sand beach. Certain areas are cordoned off and intended for safe swimming away from boats or jet skis. The promenade is a great spot for an afternoon run or stroll, and the turquoise sea is really tempting.

Long Son Pagoda

You will need to climb many stairs to get to a giant statue of Buddha at the top. The best is to visit in the morning or the afternoon. It’s free to visit but watch out for aggressive selling techniques and scams in that area.

Hon Chong Promontory

A very unique rocky landscape with some pretty views. You will need to pay a 30,000 VND entrance fee. A lot of organized tours stop here so don’t expect peace.

Nha Trang Cathedral

The church was built in Gothic style by the French and it was opened in 1933. You can get nice panoramic views of the city from there, but even though it should be free, you may experience forced donation by the security guard.

Alexandre Yersin Museum

You can see exhibits honouring Dr Alexandre Yersin, a scientist who was born in Switzerland and founded the Pasteur Institute in Nha Trang in 1895. They organize immunization and sanitation campaigns for the southern coastal region of the nation.

Yersin also made observations while travelling across the central highlands. He discovered the location of what is now Dalat during this time and suggested that a hill station be built there.

National Oceanographic Museum

A fine oceanographic museum by Vietnamese standards. There are lots of fish, a few small sharks, a few crocodiles and other aquatic animals. Apart from this, various ship models and methods of catching fish are presented.

Studio & Gallery Long Thanh Art

A wonderful collection of black and white photographs. Long Thanh landscapes are often moody, contrasting the natural beauty of Vietnam with the continuing struggle in people’s daily lives. There are also many portraits capturing the essence of the Vietnamese people, especially those who have witnessed more than their fair share of tragedy over the generations. If it’s closed, ring the bell. You may be lucky to get a tour by the artist himself.

VinWonders

There is a cable car from the mainland to Vinpearl Resort, where you can spend a few hours or even the whole day in an amusement park with rides for all ages. There is also a section with animals, gardens, and a huge ferry wheel.

Island hopping

There are plenty of offshore islands around Nha Trang which are known for the relatively clear water surrounding them and snorkeling opportunities. Trips to these islands can be arranged by every hotel and travel company in town. Just ask at the reception. Make sure that you choose the right tour though. You don’t want to end up on a booze cruise aimed solely at the backpacker market if you are looking for a calm and relaxing day.

Water sports

Besides island hopping and snorkelling, the Nha Trang area is a paradise for water enthusiasts and offers diving, surfing, wakeboarding, parasailing and white-water rafting adventures.

Diving sites are concentrated around Hon Mun Island and some of the best-known are Moray Beach, Coral Garden, Madonna Rock, Light House and Green Canyon.

What to avoid?

Tri Nguyen Aquarium

The building itself is unique – in the form of a pirate ship. Unfortunately, it is extremely poorly maintained and kitschy. I can honestly call it an animal prison and I strongly suggest not coming here.

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In Laos January 1, 2024

Vientiane: exploring the capital of Laos

Vientiane, the capital of Laos, has a rich history dating back to the 9th century. Initially, it was a Khmer settlement, but it became part of the Lan Xang Kingdom in the 14th century under King Fa Ngum. The city flourished as the kingdom’s capital, serving as a centre for Buddhism and trade.

In the 16th century, Vientiane faced conflicts with neighbouring kingdoms and later fell under Siamese (Thai) control in the 18th century. The city experienced periods of instability and changed hands between Siamese and Burmese forces.

During the French colonial era in the late 19th century, Vientiane became part of French Indochina. The French influence is evident in some colonial architecture still present today. Laos gained independence in 1954, and Vientiane became the capital of the newly formed Kingdom of Laos.

The Vietnam War had a significant impact on Vientiane as the city faced bombing raids due to its proximity to the Ho Chi Minh Trail. After the war, Laos became a socialist state, and Vientiane continued to develop as the capital.

Today, Vientiane is a mix of traditional Lao culture, French colonial influences, and modern development mainly financed by China, making it a unique blend of history and contemporary life. Even though it is the capital city, there’s not a whole lot to do there, but it is still an enjoyable place that shouldn’t be missed.

When to go?

The most popular time to visit Laos is between November and April, at least if you don’t like rain as it’s the dry season. However, nothing is as easy as it seems. You won’t get wet, but it’s the time of intense agricultural burnouts with dense haze hanging over the mountains and the air quality is regularly rated as unhealthy.

I traveled to Laos in March but next time I would go at the very beginning or at the end of the rainy season, so in October or May. Getting a bit wet is certainly better than breathing in all that air pollution!

How to get there?

If you’re flying, major airlines often have routes to Wattay International Airport in Vientiane.

From Thailand, it’s possible to cross via the First Thai-Lao Friendship Bridge from Nong Khai. Alternatively, you can explore overland options, such as buses or trains, depending on your starting point. Check your connections at 12Go.Asia.

Ensure you have a valid visa if required, and consider checking the latest travel advisories and entry regulations for Laos. Once in Vientiane, taxis, tuk-tuks, and rental vehicles are available for local transportation.

Where to stay?

I spent two nights in Apartment Thidathip which was a great choice. There was a small living room, kitchen, bedroom and bathroom. Plenty of space! The owner was very friendly and he rented me a scooter. It was good to get around the city but I wouldn’t risk a long-distance trip as its condition was far from perfect.

How long should you stay?

The major sights of the city can be seen comfortably in one day. If you plan to check some spots further away, such as Phou Khao Khouay National Bio-Diversity Conservation Area or Buddha Park, I would suggest a minimum of two days.

Sights

Patuxay Monument

The replica of the Arc de Triomphe in Vientiane dominates the business area near Rue Lan Xang. Its official name is “Victory Gate” and it commemorates the Lao who lost their lives in pre-revolutionary warfare. It was constructed in the 1960s using cement provided by the United States for use in building a new airport. Reach the summit for sweeping views of Vientiane.

Pha That Luang

Pha Golden That Luang, a symbol of Lao sovereignty and Buddhism, is the most significant national monument. According to legend, as early as the third century BC, Indian Ashokan missionaries built a stupa here to house a fragment of the Buddha’s breastbone. The 45-meter-tall stupa is surrounded by a high-walled cloister with tiny windows. The cloister is 85 metres wide on each side and is home to several Buddha statues and a statue of Jayavarman VII, the famous Angkorian ruler who changed the Khmer Empire’s official religion to Buddhism.

COPE Visitor Center

Laos is considered to be the most bombed country on earth and unexploded ordnance from the Vietnam War keeps wounding and killing people. COPE is the abbreviation of Cooperative Orthotic & Prosthetic Enterprise and it provides casualties with artificial limbs, walking aids and wheelchairs.

It’s a very educational and informative place. Don’t miss the screening room for showings of several documentaries. Entrance is free but a donation is highly encouraged to support their recovery programs.

Wat Si Saket

It’s the oldest surviving temple in the capital of Laos, built by the last monarch of the Kingdom of Vientiane and dates back to the 19th century. You can experience a tranquil atmosphere while exploring the temple grounds, adorned with numerous Buddha statues and well-preserved murals.

Wat Si Muang

The people in the area have a great deal of respect for one of the most significant and well-known religious locations in the city. It is thought that the temple was erected on the site where, during the city’s building, a young woman by the name of Si Muang gave herself as a sacrifice. The main pillar of the temple is said to have been penetrated by her spirit, endowing it with supernatural strength and elevating it to a sacred site.

The Sim, the ordination hall and centre of religious activity, is the primary attraction of the temple. It is embellished with vivid murals and detailed carvings that tell Buddhist mythology and stories. There are numerous religious objects and a sizable statue of Buddha within the Sim. The custom of residents visiting Wat Si Muang to create merit and ask for blessings for significant life events is one of the temple’s distinctive features.

Ho Phrakeo Museum

Haw Pha Kaeo, a once-royal temple constructed especially to accommodate the renowned Emerald Buddha, is now a small national museum of religious art. A small collection of Lao Buddhas, Khmer carvings, and artefacts from nearby temples may be found in the main hall.

Wat Ong Teu

Although the temple’s exterior is pretty typical of those in Vientiane, the building itself and its surroundings are in good shape. It is thought to have stood on a location that was originally used for religious purposes in the third century. King Setthathirat first constructed it in the middle of the 16th century. Nonetheless, it was destroyed in subsequent battles with the Siamese, just like practically every other temple in Vientiane, and reconstructed in the 20th century.

That Dam Stupa

This stupa is said to have originally had a layer of gold covering it. According to legend, the gold was taken by the Siamese during their 1828 raid, which is when the stupa earned the nickname “black.” This is somewhat contradicted by another tale, which claims that the stupa is the home of a seven-headed dragon that was dormant until the Siamese-Lao War of 1828 when it awoke to protect the people of the area.

Kaysone Phomvihane Museum

Kaysone Phomvihane was the first leader of an independent Laos. The museum was established in 1995 to commemorate his 75th birthday. The museum is an expansive homage to Kaysone’s cult, with an enormous bronze monument of him in front and other massive sculptures that feature important people in Laos. The structure is filled with a complete collection of memorabilia of both Kaysone and the Party.

Lao National Museum

There are some interesting exhibits here even though the selection of objects and pictures is not as extensive or well-organized as you might anticipate at a national museum. A collection of antiquated artefacts that document the early history of the area, including dinosaur bones, shards of pottery, and Khmer sculptures, are kept on the ground level.

The displays upstairs provide additional insight, tracing Laos’ turbulent contemporary history from the French colonial era and Siamese invasions to the American military’s involvement in the Vietnam War and up to the present. Since the establishment of communism in 1975 and the fight for independence are heavily emphasised, the museum was originally dubbed the Lao Revolutionary Museum.

Lao Textile Museum

This estate features multiple wooden houses designed in the native style, with a focus on textiles from many ethnic groups and the phases of weaving and dying.

Outside of town

Buddha Park

A quiet place full of Buddhist and Hindu sculptures, located about 25 km southeast of central Vientiane. The park was started in 1958 by Luang Pu Bunleua Sulilat who was a priest-shaman who integrated Hinduism and Buddhism. The statues appear to be centuries old but in fact, they are quite new. They are made of reinforced concrete and are sometimes quite bizarre in design.

To get there, you can take bus #14 from Talat Sao Bus Station, hire a tuk tuk or ride a rented motorbike. An entrance ticket costs 40,000 LAK for tourists.

Phou Khao Khouay National Bio-Diversity Conservation Area

The park covers more than 2000 km² and is home to a wide array of endangered wildlife, including wild elephants, gibbons, Asiatic black bears, clouded leopards, Siamese fireback pheasants and green peafowls. It’s not a very popular place, therefore it’s not that easy to plan the visit there.

As I couldn’t find any organized tours, I went there on a rented motorbike. It’s about 100 km and 2.5 hours ride one way. The full-day trip makes sense only if you leave very early but still, it’s pretty far away, I must say.

First, I visited Tat Leuk Waterfall. The ride there was quite fun, as I followed the dirt road deeper and deeper into the forest. Unfortunately, in the dry season, there was hardly any water flowing. Another waterfall worth checking in is Tat Xai.

When it comes to trekking, the options vary from a couple of hours to a couple of days and the best is to consult your plans at Tourism Information Centre in Vientiane (if you are lucky enough to find it open).

In Thailand September 25, 2023

Koh Samui: travel guide with the best places to visit

Koh Samui is the second-largest island in Thailand, which evolved from a quiet fishing community into a tourism-targeted destination while still retaining its natural charm. It’s definitely not as quiet and peaceful as some other Thai islands but it offers a good balance for those looking for a combination of vibrant nightlife, serene temple visits, and jungle adventures.

How to get there?

Koh Samui can be reached on a ferry from Donsak Pier near Surat Thani. Raja Ferry is slow, cheap, uncomfortable, and takes about 1,5 hours while Lomprayah is exactly the opposite but about twice the price and takes 45 minutes. Time is money, they say. The choice is yours 🙂

Another option would be to fly to Koh Samui. There are regular flights from Bangkok and other major cities in Thailand, as well as some foreign destinations. Check your connections at 12Go.Asia.

How long to stay?

I spend 3 nights on the island and I would recommend it as a minimum. It will give you enough time to explore nature and chill on the beach. That time could be easily extended to one week or even longer. There are beautiful beaches, waterfalls, a nice standard of accommodation for online work, good food, and an option for a day trip to Ang Thong National Marine Par k. Sounds like a perfect place for holidays? It could be, but keep in mind that there are also two other islands: Koh Phangan and Koh Tao which are well worth checking as well.

When to go?

The best period to visit Koh Samui is between December and August.

The dry season lasts from December to April and it’s the peak tourist season. Pleasant weather with lower humidity and cooler temperatures. Accommodation and flights can be more expensive, and popular tourist spots can be crowded.

From May to August, there is a hot season with higher temperatures and humidity. Occasional rain showers are possible but they are usually brief. May and June can be particularly hot.

Rainy season months, so September to November, are better to be avoided. The prices are more budget-friendly but you may expect frequent rainfall and boat tours will most likely be closed.

Koh Samui, Thailand — Waterfall on Koh Samui

Where to stay?

I stayed for three nights at the Pamoni Hotel in Chaweng for about 19 EUR per night. It was basically a small apartment, with a living room and a kitchen, a bedroom, a private bathroom and there was a swimming pool for guests too. A very good price-to-quality ratio and the location was excellent too.

How to get around the island?

Without a doubt, the best option is to rent a motorbike. Ask for one at your accommodation. They will either have one or get in touch with someone who can deliver it to you within minutes. You will also find some rental agencies near Chaweng Beach. I rented mine at Idan Rent Motorbikes & Cars. At first, I wasn’t too happy with the bike’s quality but they quickly reacted and changed it for a better model.

The network of roads is really good with most of them sealed. There are still some dirt roads, often quite steep so pay special attention there or simply park your bike on the side of the road and walk.

What to do on Koh Samui?

Grandfather and Grandmother Rocks (Hin Ta Hin Yai)

Beautiful view of the ocean with nice rock formations. Especially famous are the ones shaped like…. male and female genitalia. The legend says that an elderly couple living in Nakhon Sri Thammarat were discussing the marriage of their son. It wasn’t too easy to find a wife for him but they knew someone in the province of Prachuap Kiri Khan who had a beautiful daughter. They decided to use their small wooden boat to make the trip.

It wasn’t a good idea though. Their vessel was tossed around like a small toy, and both of them got terribly seasick. In the distance, they saw an island and decided to try to get there. Unfortunately, the waves were big and the winds were strong. Just as they were about to give up, a huge wave washed them both out of the boat and into the sea. Their bodies were washed ashore and instantly turned into rocks on the beach.

There are plenty of vendors selling food, snacks, drinks, and souvenirs just in case you need to cheer yourself up after discovering that sad story.

The rocks are just next to Lamai Beach, which is the island’s second largest.

Lamai Viewpoint & Valentine Stone

There is the Valentine Stone at the bottom and some fish ponds but the main attraction is the viewpoint. You can either walk up or pay extra to get a ride up. As it’s only 10 10-minute walk, the choice was easy. The path goes through the forest so don’t forget to use mosquito spray before you start. They also have an option to do ziplining, which is about 800 THB, including the entrance fee.

Lanlandaw Viewpoint

Beautiful place with an amazing view of the sea and the island. You can just get a beer or fresh coconut and soak the atmosphere. The owners are very friendly and chatty people. The dirt road leading there is quite steep so be careful when riding a motorbike.

Koh Samui in Thailand — Lanlandaw Viewpoint

Overlap Stone

There are two similar places, called Overlap Stone 1 and Overlap Stone 2. I recommend you to choose the second option. Carry on following the road past the big signs for Overlap Stone 1 and the lady waving enthusiastically asking for a ridiculous 200 THB. The road gets steeper until you see a welcome sign and a little spot saying motorbike parking. Walk up among the trees and the view will open up on both sides. The entrance costs 20 THB and you can buy some drinks too. The views over the island are simply stunning! Take a rickety bamboo walkway to get closer to the stone.

Wat Ratchathammaram

A beautifully laid-out temple decorated with red terracotta. It overlooks the sea, which makes it a particularly calm and scenic place, perfect for meditation and reflection. Moreover, it houses the relics of Buddha brought in from Sri Lanka.

Ban Hua Thanon

Home to the Muslim community, with a local fish market and Koh Samui Central Mosque that can be seen from afar because of its vibrant gold, green, and white colors.

Tarnim Magic Garden

Peaceful place to rest and appreciate the surrounding nature and different statues whilst hearing very calming trickling water. It’s quite small though and you can get around in about 30 minutes. The entry ticket costs 80 THB so I really wished it had more to offer. Insect repellent is essential!

Paradise Park Farm

A well-maintained place with a lot of animals and an enormous garden. The most popular activity is feeding and observing the pigeons that come in shades of pink, blue, yellow, and orange. There are also some deer, goats, rabbits, parrots, and ducks. They also offer a viewpoint where you can enjoy a swing and capture nice pictures. Tickets are on the expensive side: 400 THB per person, but if you travel with kids, it may be a good idea to visit.

Na Muang Waterfalls

The tallest waterfall in Samui (30 meters) with a great pool for swimming at the base. It is set in lush jungle surroundings, easily accessible just off the main ring road. There are several stalls selling snacks, drinks, and souvenirs. Keep in mind that during the dry season, the water level could be extremely small so you may be disappointed. Unfortunately, near the entrance to the waterfall, I saw an elephant which was clearly used for riding. I strongly discourage you from participating in such an “attraction”. If you want to get closer to these magnificent animals, visit Samui Elephant Kingdom Sanctuary or Samui Elephant Home described below.

Samui Elephant Kingdom Sanctuary & Samui Elephant Home

If you have the need to get closer to elephants, these two places have a good reputation. The staff look after the rescued elephants and have a great relationship with them. The tours normally include a briefing about the history of each elephant and where they’ve been rescued from, feeding, a walk around the large open grounds with them, bathing, and of course plenty of photo opportunities.

Cobra Show

I haven’t visited the place as I am not a fan of entertainment including animals, but they have positive reviews on Google Maps. Apparently, the owner and staff are very friendly and the animals look comfortable in their enclosures and are well-kept. Let me know in the comments if you were there and what were your impressions!

Khao Yai Waterfall

A short hike through some bush leads you to an unimpressive waterfall. Not really worth the time and effort.

Wang Sao Thong Waterfall

After a 10-minute walk through the jungle, you‘ll be able to cool down in a small lagoon at the base of the waterfall. Don’t expect anything big though and you may totally skip the place in the dry season.

Wat Khunaram

The home to Koh Samui’s mummified monk, Luong Pordaeng, who died in 1973. It was his will to be put on display as a visual reminder of the Buddha’s teachings. The body is presented in a seated meditative position in a glass case and the only noticeable change to the body has been the disintegration of the eyes, which have now been respectfully covered by sunglasses. I really like that place because it also shows you that Thais approach death as the natural order of things and they view it as an opportunity to be reborn into a better place, one step closer to nirvana. So much different from the European point of view.

Wat Plai Laem

This unique temple was completed in 2004 and most of the complex was built in Thai-Chinese style. The two giant, colorful statues dominate the landscape. The first is the huge image of Guanyin, the Chinese Goddess of Mercy and Compassion who has 18 arms. Guanyin is very highly revered by Chinese people and is known as the protector of women and children, the sick, and the poor. She is said to have so many arms, so she can help many people at one time.

Another statue is that of the fat, laughing Chinese Buddha. In Chinese culture, a fat Buddha represents wealth and prosperity. This very impressive statue is 30 meters high and was painted in expressive colors like red, white, and gold.

Wat Phra Yai

The temple complex is built on a small island named Koh Farn, connected to mainland Koh Samui with a causeway. The highlight is a 12-meter-long Buddha image that was built in 1972. The Buddha is in the subduing Mara posture, which symbolizes the Buddha not giving in to the demon Mara, temping the Buddha with beautiful women. There are also some great views of the surrounding beaches and the island of Koh Phangan to the north.

Thongson Beach

Fine beach but you will most likely need to order something in the restaurant or otherwise they will charge you for parking. You may notice pigs cooling off there on a hot day, not joking. The naturist beach is located further on the right, just follow the path and then go over the rocks. If you are in that part of the island, it’s worth stopping by but it’s not worth a special trip.

Choengmon Beach

It’s one of the most beautiful beaches in Koh Samui with clean water and nice sand. You can get a sun bed for about 200 THB. Plenty of spots offer massage, drinks, and food. It’s also a perfect place for a beach walk during low tide to have a closer look at nearby Ko Fan Yai and Ko Fan Noi.

Chaweng Beach

Probably the most crowded and popular beach on the island. Hotels and resorts are all along the beachfront, bars and restaurants play loud music till late night hours, and jet ski as well as other water attractions are available for adrenaline seekers. It’s typical beach madness but sometimes this is exactly what you are looking for. Sunrises are beautiful there and probably that is the only quiet time for peace lovers.

Khao Hua Jook Pagoda

Worth visiting around the sunset for great views over the island and the airport. Entrance fee: 20 THB.

Lad Koh View Point

Lovely viewpoint just off the road. You can take a nice walkway down to the rocks below.

Wat Phra Chedi Laem So

Beautiful, serene, and quiet temple by the sea. It’s not worth a special trip, but if in the southwestern area of Samui, check it out.

Koh Taen and Ko Mat Sum

Both islands are located only a few minutes away by longtail boat from Thong Krut Pier. Koh Taen isn’t too impressive and the beach is rocky so don’t waste too much time. On the other hand, snorkeling around the island is decent. Koh Madsum is way better for relaxing on the beach with fine sand and fantastic clear water. It can get crowded as it’s popular for… pigs on the beach. The price for a boat, depending on your plan should vary between 1000 – 1400 THB.

Lipa Noi Beach

A very long and narrow sandy beach. The big plus is that there are hardly any people. Both the water and the beach are clean and it’s a good spot to enjoy the sunset in peace.

Hin Lat Waterfall

Another nice waterfall on Koh Samui and a great 30-40-minute hike through the jungle to reach it. Insect repellent and proper shoes are recommended. If the water level allows, you may swim in the cooling pools at the base of the waterfall.

Khun Si Waterfall & Viewpoint

The waterfall wasn’t too impressive at the time of my visit but the road to get there was leading through the wilder part of Samui, even though it was a bit tricky. At some point, I started doubting if I was heading in the right direction but then a small wooden sign told me that I arrived. Khun Si View Point is just on the other side of the parking, don’t miss it!

Nathon Sunset Viewpoint

A popular location for sunset. There are benches along the road or you can get closer to the water for a different perspective. During low tide, there is also a nice sandbar to walk on. Bang Makham Beach and Laem Yai Beach further north are other good alternatives for watching the sunset.

North Coast Beaches and Fisherman’s Village

There are a lot of good beaches on the north coast with restaurants, bars, kayaks, paddle boards, jet skis, and other attractions. The best is to just follow the main road on a motorbike and stop wherever you want. The nicest places are Bang Por Beach, Baan Tai Beach, Maenam Beach, W Beach, and Bo Phut Beach. The center of all entertainment is Fisherman’s Village and there is a big night market too.

In Thailand September 13, 2023

Koh Phangan: travel guide with the best places to visit

Nestled in the Gulf of Thailand, Koh Phangan is a captivating tropical paradise, known for its pristine beaches, vibrant culture, and unique blend of tranquillity and excitement. Whether you’re seeking the thrill of the world-famous Full Moon Party, a serene escape to crystal-clear waters, or a taste of authentic Thai culture, this island has something for every kind of traveller. For me, it’s also one of the top places for online work in the whole of Thailand.

How to get there?

Koh Phangan can be reached on a ferry from Donsak Pier near Surat Thani. Raja Ferry is slow, cheap, uncomfortable, and takes about 2,5 hours while Lomprayah is exactly the opposite but about twice the price and takes 1,5 hours. Time is money, they say. The choice is yours 🙂

Another option would be to fly to Koh Samui and hop on a boat from there. There are regular flights from Bangkok and other major cities in Thailand, as well as some foreign destinations. Check your connections at 12Go.Asia

How long to stay?

The island is a very pleasant place to stay, regardless if you are a party type or not. I would count a minimum 3 days which could be easily extended to one week or even longer. Beautiful beaches, waterfalls, and forest, nice standard of accommodation for online work, good food, and an option for a day trip to Ang Thong National Marine Par k. What else would you need for a perfect tropical holiday?

When to go?

The best period to visit Koh Phangan is between December and August.

The dry season lasts from December to April and it’s the peak tourist season. Pleasant weather with lower humidity and cooler temperatures. Accommodation and flights can be more expensive, and popular tourist spots can be crowded.

From May to August, there is a hot season with higher temperatures and humidity. Occasional rain showers are possible but they are usually brief. May and June can be particularly hot.

Rainy season months, so September to November, are better to be avoided. The prices are more budget-friendly but you may expect frequent rainfall and boat tours will most likely be closed.

Where to stay?

The night in Mae Haad Garden Inn cost me about 12 EUR per night and I chose that location only because other options were not available because of the Full Moon Festival. I ended up very satisfied with it and the area was super calm. With a scooter, it was easy to reach any part of the island anyway. Chaloklum Beach was only a 10-minute ride away.

Later, I moved to the Shanti Boutique Hotel which was a bit more expensive but absolutely brilliant. The rooms are simple but very cozy and clean, and it’s nice that they come with a balcony. The location is great as well, near Srithanu Beach and Zen Beach. There are also many cafés and restaurants that offer super tasty food with a lot of variety.

How to get around the island?

Without a doubt, the best option is to rent a motorbike. Ask for one at your accommodation. They will either have one or get in touch with someone who can deliver it to you within minutes. You will also find some rental agencies near Thongsala Pier.

The network of roads is really good with most of them sealed. There are still some dirt roads, often steep so pay special attention there or simply park your bike on the side of the road and walk.

What to do in Koh Phangan?

Wat Phu Khao Noi

The oldest temple on the island is a very tranquil place to walk around and enjoy the peace. It has a very nice vibe and the buildings are beautiful to look at. As it is located on a small hill, there are some good views too.

Phaeng Noi Waterfall

Wonderful waterfalls with lots of places to stop for a quick dip. The circular trail is challenging and adventurous but absolutely worth it. The full version takes about 2 hours but you may also choose a shorter variation. Hiking shoes are recommended as the trail is sometimes difficult and can be slippery. The entrance fee for foreigners is 100 THB.

Than Sadet Waterfall

The scenic road from the south of the island to Haad Sadet Beach crosses Namtok Than Sadet National Park. Don’t expect an impressive waterfall as it’s more like a stream with a lot of small waterfalls where you can walk up or downstream. The level of water depends on the season. The entrance fee for foreigners is 100 THB.

En route, you will notice two other access points to the same stream: Pho Darng Waterfall and Deang Waterfall.

Haad Sadet Beach

An okayish place but nothing too special. The highlight for me was taking a walk through We took a walk through the rickety bridge to the abandoned resort on the nearby beach: Haad Thong Reng. The entrance to Haad Sadet Beach costs 100 THB.

Haad Yao (East) and Haad Yang

Two remote and quiet beaches that can be reached by boat from Haad Rin, 4WD, or on foot. Haad Yao (East) is popular for its weekly parties at Lost Paradise.

Haad Wai Nam

Another nice and cozy beach, with a very chilled vibe and free atmosphere. Beautiful rocks and good water for snorkeling! The restaurants serve delicious food and there is a beach party every Saturday. The easiest way to get here is by boat from Haad Rin.

Haad Yuan Beach

I really enjoyed the jungle hike from Haad Rin to get to this place, with a wonderful viewpoint on the way. It takes about 1,5 hours. If you don’t feel like hiking all the way back, you can just take a boat taxi for approximately 200 THB per person. There are parties on Saturday night at Eden Bar.

Haad Rin

This is the epicenter of the island’s nightlife, most famous for its Full Moon Party, a massive monthly beach party that draws thousands of visitors from all over the world. The event typically takes place on the night of the full moon, hence the name. It’s known for its vibrant atmosphere, music, dancing, and colorful decorations.

Haad Rin is divided into two main beaches: Haad Rin Nok (Sunrise Beach) and Haad Rin Nai (Sunset Beach). Sunrise Beach is where most of the Full Moon Party action happens, while Sunset Beach is generally quieter and more relaxed. Both beaches offer stunning views and plenty of water sports activities.

For good panoramic views, hike to Haad Rin Rock Viewpoint. It’s a good spot for sunset, although take the flashlight with you as the route is bushy. Follow the road to the antenna and about 20 meters before the road ends, there is a small, overgrown path toward the rock from which you can see the best view.

Yang Na Yai Tree and Wat Pho

Dipterocarpus alatus also known colloquially as the resin tree, is a tropical forest tree. The tallest one on the island is truly colossal and impressive. It’s located near Wat Pho, which is a quiet temple with an herbal sauna on the opposite side of the street.

Wat Khao Tham

It’s a very quiet and calm place on the hills of Koh Phangan, with a wonderful viewpoint over Koh Phangan. Koh Samui can be seen as well. They have a Vipassana meditation retreat so ask for more details if you are interested.

Koh Ma and Koh Ma Beach

Koh Ma is a small island in the northwest connected to Koh Phangan by a tiny but very picturesque sandbar. It’s a very popular snorkeling spot with some rock reefs on the east side of the island. The beach is very nice too, with hotel rooms located right on it but go a bit further and you will find a much quieter part.

Wang Sai

Very disappointing place. The entrance fee was 50 THB per person but the place is neglected and it isn’t worth the time and money. The bar was closed and the waterfall was very tiny. Not recommended!

Guanyuin Temple

Beautiful temple located on the hill by the main road from Thongsal to Chaloklum. It is dedicated to the bodhisattva Guanyin, the Buddhist Goddess of Mercy. The price for entering is 40 THB per person.

West Coast Beaches

There are several pleasant beaches on that section of the island. Especially worth mentioning are: Salad Beach, Haad Yao Beach, Secret Beach, Zen Beach, Srithanu Beach, and Hin Kong Beach.

Phangan Royal Navy Ship

HTMS Phangan was donated to the Thai government by the United States back in 1957 as a symbol of good relations. It was in service during the Vietnam War and was officially retired on June 5, 2008. During my visit in April 2022, the interior was not available for sightseeing.

Chalok Lam Beach and Malibu Beach

A nice beach stretching mainly by Chaloklum, a small fishing village. There are a lot of food options around. To the west of the village is the very picturesque Malibu Beach.

Khao Ko Viewpoint

A hidden little viewpoint over Chaloklum Bay! You can spend the entire afternoon there enjoying the view from the hammocks. The road is short but very steep so if you are an inexperienced motorbike rider, just park it on the side and continue on foot. Refreshments like beer, coke, and water are available.

Bottle Beach

Nice, wide, and relatively clean beach with a bar and some bungalows for rent. The road to get there is recommended for 4WD only, so unless you are a skilled rider, it’s better to park your motorbike and continue on foot. It’s a pleasant downhill walk and on the way back I was lucky enough to get a ride in a pickup truck. From here, you can also access the track through the jungle leading to the most amazing viewpoint on the island.

If you don’t drive a car or ride a motorbike, you can find boat taxis waiting for clients on the beach or ask about them in a bar.

Bottle Beach Viewpoint

Probably my favorite point in Koh Phangan. The journey through the jungle path was nothing short of amazing, and some moderate climbing near the end added to the sense of adventure and connection with nature. It’s not for someone who is scared of heights though.

The viewpoint can be reached either from Bottle Beach (about 25 minutes) or from the road on the other side. Just look for “Bottle Beach Scooter Parking” on Google Maps. From there the walk is even shorter. Flip-flops are not recommended.

Haad Khom Beach

A quiet and beautiful beach. Sometimes you can see monkeys around this area. You can take a boat taxi to Bottle Beach from here or simply take a trail which is well-signed with blue marks. It should take about 1 – 1.5 hours one way.

Thong Nai Pan Beach

Beautiful beach and area with clean soft sand and water. The village has a quiet vibe and feels small and calm. Wat Thong Nai Pan with an unusual stupa has a nice viewpoint and is located nearby.

You may also check Than Prawet Waterfall or Thong Nai Pan Waterfall if you are tired of beaches.

Day trip to Ang Thong National Marine Park

Ang Thong National Marine Park is a stunning archipelago located in the Gulf of Thailand, not far from Koh Phangan. The park was established on 12th November 1980. and consists of 42 small, limestone islands, characterized by lush greenery, towering cliffs, and hidden coves. All of the islands are uninhabited and undeveloped except for one: Koh Wua Talap, where the visitor center, campsite, and bungalows are located.

There are numerous companies running daily trips from Koh Phangan and Koh Samui and first, you will need to decide if you prefer to take a speedboat or a slow boat. It takes about an hour to reach the islands by speedboat and about 2-3 hours by slow boat. You can save a lot of time choosing the first option but the ride can be bumpy and less enjoyable. The slow boat usually has a nice deck where you can sunbathe and take a lot of nice pictures.

Ang Thong National Marine Park in Thailand — Ang Thong National Marine Park

I decided to choose a tour operated by the Orion Cruise, starting from Koh Phangan. It was a bigger and slower boat. As of April 2022, the cost was about 2.000 THB. Included in the price is pick-up from the hotel, lunch, snacks, soft drinks, and snorkeling equipment. You may pay an extra 200 THB if you go for an option with a kayak. The price included the Ang Thong National Marine Park entrance fee.

A full description of the tour can be found in a separate post HERE. You may also ask at your accommodation for alternative options.

In Thailand September 4, 2023

Ang Thong National Marine Park: all you need to know

Ang Thong National Marine Park is a stunning archipelago located in the Gulf of Thailand, not far from the popular tourist destinations of Koh Samui and Koh Phangan. The park was established on 12th November 1980. and consists of 42 small, limestone islands, characterized by lush greenery, towering cliffs, and hidden coves. All of the islands are uninhabited and undeveloped except for one: Koh Wua Talap, where the visitor centre, campsite, and bungalows are located.

How to get there?

To get to Ang Thong National Marine Park, you need to travel to the nearby islands of Koh Samui or Koh Phangan, as it serves as a starting point for visiting the park. In both places, you will easily find tour agents offering day trips to the park. There are no boat tours from Surathani or Koh Tao.

Koh Samui and Koh Phangan can be reached on a ferry from Donsak Pier near Surat Thani. Raja Ferry is slow, cheap, uncomfortable, and takes about 1,5 hours to Koh Samui and 2,5 hours to Koh Phangan while Lomprayah is exactly the opposite but about twice the price and takes 45 minutes to Koh Samui and 1,5 hours to Koh Phangan. Time is money, they say. The choice is yours 🙂

Another option would be to fly to Koh Samui. There are regular flights from Bangkok and other major cities in Thailand, as well as some foreign destinations. Check your connections at 12Go.Asia.

How long to stay?

Typically people sign up for a one-day tour. However, camping is possible so if you wish to do so, you will need to make arrangements individually with the tour agent and the boat will pick you up on the next day. The rent of a tent for 2 people is 250 THB per person per night including a torch, clean sleeping bag, and mosquito net.

When to go?

The best period to visit Ang Thong National Marine Park is between December and August.

The dry season lasts from December to February and it’s the peak tourist season. Pleasant weather with lower humidity and cooler temperatures. Accommodation and flights can be more expensive, and popular tourist spots can be crowded.

From March to August, there is a hot season with higher temperatures and humidity. Occasional rain showers are possible but they are usually brief. May and June can be particularly hot.

Rainy season months, from September to November, are better to avoid. The prices are more budget-friendly but you may expect frequent rainfall and boat tours will most likely be closed.

Entrance fee to the park

When signing up for a tour, clarify if the entrance fee is included in the tour price. Normally it isn’t and extra cash is collected by tour companies before the trip starts or while you are on board.

The fees as of August 2023 are as follows: 300 THB for foreign adults and 150 THB for foreign kids. Thai citizens will pay 50 THB for adults and 25 THB for kids.

*all prices are from April 2022.

Where to stay?

Koh Phangan

The night in Mae Haad Garden Inn cost me about 12 EUR per night and I chose that location only because other options were not available because of the Full Moon Festival. I ended up very satisfied with it and the area was super calm. With a scooter, it was easy to reach any part of the island anyway. Chaloklum Beach was only a 10-minute ride away.

Later, I moved to the Shanti Boutique Hotel which was a bit more expensive but absolutely brilliant. The rooms are simple but very cozy and clean, and it’s nice that they come with a balcony. The location is great as well, near Srithanu Beach and Zen Beach. There are also many cafés and restaurants that offer super tasty food with a lot of variety.

Koh Samui

I stayed for three nights at the Pamoni Hotel in Chaweng for about 19 EUR per night. It was basically a small apartment, with a living room and a kitchen, a bedroom, and a private bathroom and there was a swimming pool for guests too. A very good price-to-quality ratio and the location was very good too.

Ko Wua Talap

If you decide to extend your tour for the overnight stay, there are camping and bungalows to rent at the park headquarters on Ko Wua Talap Island. Facilities are basic: cold water shower and electricity from a generator that shuts down at 11 PM, but isn’t it a beauty of this place? You may also rent a kayak to explore the area from the water perspective independently.

The tour

There are numerous companies running daily trips from Koh Phangan and Koh Samui and first, you will need to decide if you prefer to take a speedboat or a slow boat. It takes about an hour to reach the islands by speedboat and about 2-3 hours by slow boat. You can save a lot of time choosing the first option but the ride can be bumpy and less enjoyable. The slow boat usually has a nice deck where you can sunbathe and take a lot of nice pictures.

I decided to choose a tour operated by the Orion Cruise, starting from Koh Phangan. It was a bigger and slower boat. As of April 2022, the cost was about 2.000 THB. Included in the price is pick-up from the hotel, lunch, snacks, soft drinks, and snorkelling equipment. You may pay an extra 200 THB if you go for an option with a kayak. The price included the Ang Thong National Marine Park entrance fee.

The day started with a slightly delayed pick up in the accommodation by a minivan and delivery to the pier. Coffee or tea and snacks were already waiting. The boat departed a few minutes after 9 AM and was going slowly so there was plenty of time to relax on the deck. The first stop was around Koh Wao, where we got our snorkeling equipment and jumped into the water to see some colourful fish and coral. It wasn’t bad but the water wasn’t perfectly clear and during my travels in South East Asia, I have visited much better snorkeling locations.

From there, the boat went deeper into the national park and at this point, it is better to be on the upper deck to have an unobstructed panoramic view of the small rocky islands all around. The boat stopped near Ao Ka Beach, which was a drop-off point for those who decided to choose the option of a kayak. To get to the beach itself, we had to switch to a long-tail boat first, as the slow boat was too big to get so close. The whole kayaking experience wasn’t too long and took about 30-40 minutes.

If you haven’t decided to have a kayak trip, you will stay on board and meet up with other participants later at Koh Mae Koh. It’s a wonderful island with a Blue Lagoon surrounded by steep limestone cliffs in the middle. Follow some steep stairs to get to the viewing platform and you won’t be disappointed. The color of the water is bizarre yet very beautiful.

The last stop was at the biggest island in the archipelago: Koh Wua Talap. Here are the national park headquarters and this is the place where you can stay overnight if you wish to. What you certainly have to do is hike up to Pha Chan Charat Viewpoint. It provides a sensational view of the islands with blue waters and green forests all around. The hike up is very steep and sweaty, especially under the hot sun but it’s totally doable for most people. Take your time and stop at other viewpoints along the way. The return trip should take about 1 hour.

Once I got down, I still had some time to enjoy the wonderful beach and chill in the hammock. At the agreed time, the captain called me to return to the boat and we started our return journey to Koh Phangan with the sun slowly setting. We arrived shortly after 6 PM and were dropped off at our hotels.

Overall, it was a great day and the whole trip was organized nicely. The food was good, the crew was incredibly friendly and the views in the national park impressed me a lot. The only negative side was the speed of the boat, which was really slow and we spent plenty of time travelling to and from Ang Thong National Marine Park. If the boat had been faster, we would have had more time to spend in the park.

In Vietnam September 1, 2023

Phu Quoc: is it worth visiting the most popular island in Vietnam?

Phu Quoc is the largest island in Vietnam and is located in the Gulf of Thailand, off the southwestern coast of Cambodia and the southern coast of Vietnam. In recent years, the island has become a popular destination for domestic and foreign tourists with resorts popping up one after another. As usual in such cases, a lot of natural beauty was lost or significantly damaged. If so, is it still worth visiting?

The history of Phu Quoc is rather gloomy. Due to its remoteness, the island served the French colonial administration as a prison. The role didn’t change much when the Americans arrived and about 40,000 Viet Cong prisoners were held on the island.

Let’s make it clear, after traveling for 5 months in Vietnam, I strongly believe that it isn’t a good country for beach holidays. When talking with local people, I always heard raves about the island and its beauty. I felt I couldn’t skip it and planned my 4-day trip there to check if it really was better than other typical beach destinations that I have seen so far in Vietnam.

How to get to Phu Quoc Island?

The Island can be comfortably reached by ferry from Ha Tien or Rach Gia. You can also transport your motorbike on board for an extra fee. Two popular operators are Superdong Ferries and Phu Quoc Expresses. Check the schedule on their website as it varies depending on the season.

Moreover, you can take a flight from various cities in Vietnam or neighboring countries to Phu Quoc International Airport. Check your connections at 12Go.Asia

Phu Quoc, Vietnam — Streetfood in Duong Dong

When to go?

You will get more sun and a more pleasant experience from November to April, during the dry season. This period offers ideal conditions for enjoying beaches and engaging in water sports without being affected by the intense heat of the Vietnamese summer. On the other hand, expect more tourists and higher prices.

Where to stay?

I stayed for a few nights at Phu Quoc Areca Garden Bungalow. It cost about 15 EUR per night and the bungalows were wonderfully set next to the garden. It’s not a resort along the beach but this was not something that I was looking for. The beach or other attractions can be easily reached on a scooter. The room was spacious and bright.

How to get around the island?

Without a doubt, the best option is to rent a motorbike. Ask for one at your accommodation. They will either have one or get in touch with someone who can deliver it to you within minutes. You will also find plenty of rental agencies in Duong Dong, the main town of Phu Quoc.

The network of roads is really good with most of them sealed. There are still dirt roads, mainly on approach to the beaches on the north and northeast coast.

Taking your own motorbike on the ferry is easy and quite cheap. Ask about it directly in the sales office of Superdong Ferries or Phu Quoc Expresses.

What to do on Phu Quoc Island?

Duong Dong

The main town on the island is full of streetside stalls, restaurants, bars, and shops. There is a night market too. Here you don’t have that huge resort vibe and it’s the most authentic place on the island to observe local life. Fishing vessels are parked all around the busy channel. Fresh seafood guaranteed!

Near the promenade and among the rocks stands Dinh Cau Temple which honors Thien Hau, the Goddess of the Sea, who provides protection for sailors and fishermen. A very popular place for domestic tourists.

Phu Quoc Island, Vietnam — Entrance to the temple

Ba Keo Beach

A popular beach in the southern part of the island. It is spacious and most parts are relatively clean. The water is calm and there are a lot of bars and restaurants. Unfortunately, it’s kind of divided between resorts and it’s nearly impossible to find a place to sit in the shade without paying for a sunbed. Rubbish is also very often reported to be a problem here, but the situation is similar at all other beaches in Vietnam.

Suoi Tranh Waterfall

A bit kitschy park for lots of weird statues. Nevertheless, the short walk to the waterfall was pleasant and once I was there, it wasn’t crowded at all. You can take a dip or enjoy your picnic there.

Coi Nguon Museum

I liked walking around the museum and reading the stories of Phu Quoc and the life back then. The display includes Vietnamese medicines, Stone Age tools, ceramics, and furniture. The museum is quite old-fashioned, dusty, and pretty hot inside. The view of the city from the upper floor is worth checking out. An entrance ticket costs 50,000 VND.

Phu Quoc Prison (Nha Thu Phu Quoc)

The place was built by the French in the 1940s and today it houses exhibits presenting the history of the jail and how Vietnamese POWs were mistreated. The entrance is free and it takes approximately 20-30 minutes to see everything.

Sunset Town

A strange and deserted place that is partially still under construction. It’s a copy of a Meditterean coastal-style city. As of November 20222, most of the shops were closed and it looked like a ghost town. There was classical music playing on speakers throughout the town, which actually helped to somewhat alleviate the feeling of emptiness and despair.

Cable Car and Aquatopia Water Park

The cable car to Hon Thom Island is the world’s longest sea-crossing construction of this kind (almost 8 km). It provides magnificent panoramic views of the surrounding seascape. On the island, the main attraction is Aquatopia Water Park with a few interesting rides, a beach area, restaurants, and cafes. Unfortunately, as of November 2022, some of the rides were closed. The entrance fee is 530.000 VND and it includes the cable car. I left with mixed feelings. The cable car was excellent, however, the water park was somewhat disappointing.

An Thoi Islands Tour

The group of islands off the southern coast of Phu Quoc is known for its natural beauty and clear waters, which makes it a popular destination for snorkeling or diving tours. Some of the notable islands include Hon Thom, Hon Roi, Hon Dua, and Hon May Rut. The tours include transport from the hotel to the port and back, snorkeling equipment, and lunch. I booked mine through John’s Tours and can totally recommend it.

Khem Beach and Sao Beach

Probably the best beaches in the southern part of the island, and also quite clean by Vietnamese standards. There are many water sports activities such as banana boats, parasailing, and jetski so it’s very noisy and the sea water isn’t that clear. There were a few restaurant and cafe options.

Quoc Mau Hall

Located 10 km north of Sao Beach, the largest pagoda on Phu Quoc Island was built in 2012 and provides beautiful sea views.

Vung Bau Beach

Following the dirt road to get to the beach on a scooter was fun. The beach is quite long and in principle completely empty. Don’t expect sunbeds, huts, bars, or restaurants. It’s just the beach and that’s the beauty of it.

Cau Can Beach

Another almost empty beach. The area next to the river mouth is particularly nice and you will see fishermen going in and out.

Ganh Dau Beach

Small beach but a pleasant stop for a cold drink with a view of the Cambodian island Koh Seh.

Grand World

Another attraction copying European architecture. After a few months in Vietnam, I realized how popular those places are! There is a canal with gondola rides like in Venice and you may also join one of the shows at night. Moreover, plenty of restaurants and snack stands do their best to satisfy all tourists’ tastes. Have I mentioned that there is even….a Teddy Bear Museum?

Thom Beach

The ride from Grand World to Thom Beach is through a scenic and forested interior of the island. There is a bar with hammocks on the beach and the place was perfectly calm without many tourists.

Final thoughts

Maybe I got spoilt after spending a few months in Thailand visiting probably over 30 different islands there, but a visit to Phu Quoc hasn’t changed my opinion that Vietnam simply isn’t a good place for beach holidays. I have no idea what the island looked like a few years ago but as of 2023, the coast is lined up with resorts or construction sites to create even more of them in the near future. If this is what you are looking for, then it’s fine. However, I prefer a good mix of relaxing on the beach and active exploration, and that part was kind of missing. Some more remote beaches are even difficult to access if you aren’t a guest of the hotel.

Sure, there are nice places to visit but nothing extraordinary, considering the size of the island. The four days that I spent there were more than enough and I don’t feel like I would like to come back anytime soon. Especially if there is an option of coming back to Thailand or the Philippines.

asia

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3 days 2 nights itinerary

Day One

Day Two

Day three

2 days 1 night itinerary

General impressions

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Bornean Sun Bear Conservation Centre

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Billionth Barrel Monument

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Pantai Ku Ceria (KB Beach)

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A brief history

How to get to Bandar Seri Begawan?

By Air

By Land

By Sea

When to go?

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How to get around the town?

What to do in Bandar Seri Begawan?

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Istana Nurul Iman

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Mausoleum of Sultan Bolkiah

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A brief history

Paradise Park Farm