Gombe National Park is a small but world-famous national park in western Tanzania, best known for its chimpanzees and the groundbreaking research of Dr. Jane Goodall. It’s located along the shores of Lake Tanganyika, near the town of Kigoma, and offers a rare chance to see wild chimpanzees up close in their natural forest habitat. It was established in 1968 and has about 52 square kilometres. In addition to chimps, the park is home to olive baboons, red colobus monkeys, vervet monkeys, and over 200 species of birds. Dense forests, waterfalls, and stunning views of Lake Tanganyika add to the park’s beauty.
Chimpanzees
Chimpanzees in Tanzania are among the most fascinating creatures, especially those found in the Gombe and Mahale Mountains National Parks. They are our closest living relatives, sharing about 98.7% of human DNA, which is why their behaviour often feels so familiar. In the wild, they show remarkable intelligence, using tools like sticks to extract termites, leaves to soak up drinking water, and stones to crack nuts. Their social lives are equally complex; they live in flexible communities where group members come and go, form alliances, and even resolve conflicts through gestures like hugs or touches. In some areas, they’ve even been seen hunting smaller monkeys in coordinated group efforts, displaying strategy and cooperation rarely seen in other animals.
Chimpanzee mothers are especially caring, with young ones staying close for several years, learning essential survival and social skills. These primates also show signs of deep emotion — they’ve been observed mourning the loss of group members, staying by their side quietly and gently. Each chimpanzee is unique, with its personality and voice. They communicate using a variety of vocal sounds, facial expressions, and gestures, creating a rich and meaningful form of social interaction.
Despite their brilliance and charm, chimpanzees face serious threats — including habitat destruction, illegal hunting, and diseases passed from humans. Conservation efforts in Tanzania continue to play a vital role in ensuring these intelligent animals can survive and thrive in the wild. Seeing them in their natural forest homes is not only an unforgettable experience but a powerful reminder of our connection to the natural world.
Research of Dr. Jane Goodall
Dr. Jane Goodall is one of the most influential primatologists in history, and her research completely transformed how we understand chimpanzees — and even ourselves. She began her work in 1960 at Gombe Stream in Tanzania, where she lived among wild chimpanzees, observing them closely in their natural habitat. What set her apart was her unconventional approach: she gave names to the chimpanzees rather than assigning them numbers (which was against the norm at the time), and she spent long periods quietly watching and recording their behaviour.
One of her most groundbreaking discoveries was that chimpanzees use tools — something that, until then, had been considered a uniquely human trait. She saw them modifying twigs to fish termites out of holes, proving they could solve problems and plan. Her work also revealed that chimpanzees are emotionally complex, with social structures, strong family bonds, and even behaviours like affection, jealousy, playfulness, and grief.
Over time, she also uncovered a darker side to chimpanzee life — including territorial aggression and violence, even within their groups. These insights challenged long-held beliefs about both chimpanzee nature and human uniqueness. Dr Goodall’s research showed that many behaviours once thought to define humans actually existed in other primates too.
Beyond the science, her legacy is also about conservation and activism. As the threats to chimpanzees grew — from deforestation to poaching — she shifted her focus to protecting them and their environments. She founded the Jane Goodall Institute, which supports research and leads global conservation efforts and education programs, particularly involving youth through her Roots & Shoots initiative.
How to get there?
Getting to Gombe National Park is an adventurous journey. Located on the remote eastern shores of Lake Tanganyika, near the town of Kigoma, Gombe is only accessible by boat, but the trip is worth it.
Step 1: Travel to Kigoma
Kigoma is the nearest town and the main entry point for travellers heading to Gombe.
By Plane: There are domestic flights available from major cities like Dar es Salaam, Arusha, or Dodoma to Kigoma Airport. Flights are operated by local airlines such as Air Tanzania, and the flight usually takes around 2–3 hours, depending on the route.
By Train: The train from Dar es Salaam to Kigoma offers a scenic journey across the country, taking about 2–3 days. It’s a slower, more immersive way to travel — ideal for those who enjoy overland adventures and watching Tanzania’s diverse landscapes.
By Bus or Car: Traveling by bus or private vehicle from Dar es Salaam is possible, but the trip is very long (over 1,200 km) and can take 30+ hours, depending on road conditions. From Mwanza, it is about 8-10 hours by bus.
Step 2: Boat from Kigoma to Gombe
Since there are no roads into Gombe, the only way in is by boat from Kigoma, across Lake Tanganyika.
Private Boat: A motorboat can be hired from Kigoma, usually taking 1–2 hours, depending on the boat and lake conditions. This is the fastest and most flexible option, especially if you’re travelling with a group or want to stick to your schedule. Needless to say, it isn’t cheap and you should count on about 200 USD for the return trip.
The receptionist from Leaders Lodge in Kigoma, where I was staying, got me in touch with Hussein, who works as a ranger but also has his motorboat. There was also one more traveller willing to join the trip and share costs. Hussein arrived at the lodge and after hard negotiations, we agreed on the price of a 2-day 1-night trip to Gombe, including transport, entrance fee, accommodation, food and a guide.
Hussein: +255 686 109 100, mtawigayatourskigoma@gmail.com
Public Boat: A more affordable option is the local wooden boat, often called a lake taxi, which departs from Kibirizi Beach near Kigoma town. It leaves around midday most days except Sundays. The ride takes 3 to 4 hours, as it makes stops in villages along the shoreline. You’ll return to Kigoma early in the morning — the boat passes by Gombe around 7:00–8:00 AM.
After getting to Gombe, you need to pay an entrance fee which gives you the right to be in the park for 24 hours. Taking into consideration the schedule of public boats, it’s really difficult to make the most of this time.
The best time to visit
The best time to visit Gombe National Park is during the dry season, which runs from June to October. Trails are easier to hike as the forest paths are drier and less slippery. Chimpanzees are more active and easier to find, as they stay closer to the lower slopes in search of food. There’s less rain, so your chances of clear weather and uninterrupted tracking are much higher. Lake Tanganyika is calmer, making boat travel to and from the park smoother and safer.
The Rainy season runs from November to May. The forest becomes lush and green, which is beautiful but trails can get muddy and challenging. Chimpanzees tend to roam deeper into the forest, making them harder to track. There’s a higher chance of boat travel delays due to rough lake conditions.
I wouldn’t demonize rain season too much though. I visited Gombe National Park at the end of February and the weather was just fine, with short rains only in the afternoons.
Where to stay?
In Kigoma, which will certainly be the starting and ending point of your travel to Gombe National Park, I can fully recommend LEADERS LODGE. The room was clean and quite spacious. They can also prepare food and help you with arranging the trip to Gombe or any other place on your onward travel. Room prices vary so expect to pay about 30.000 – 50.000 TZS depending on the size of the room and if it comes with AC or not.
Inside the national park, you can choose between a standard room in a bigger building or a luxury tent.
How much does it cost?
Park Entrance Fees:
Non-East African Citizens:
Adults (16 years and above): 100 USD per day
Children (5 to 15 years): 20 USD per day
Tanzanian Residents and Expatriates:
Adults: 50 USD per day
Children: 10 USD per day
East African Citizens:
Adults: 10,000 TZS per day
Children: 2,000 TZS per day
Accommodation Costs:
Budget Options: Basic rooms are available starting around 40,000 TZS per night.
Transportation Expenses:
Boat Transfers to Gombe: From Kigoma, boat transport is necessary:
Public Boats: More affordable but less frequent and slower. Hard to make the best out of your 24-hour stay in the national park due to the oat’s schedule.
Private Speedboats: Faster and more convenient, with costs varying based on negotiation and group size but should be anywhere between 100 – 200 USD.
Additional Costs:
Guided Chimpanzee Trekking: Required and may incur additional fees.
Meals: Depending on accommodation, meals might be included or charged separately.
Sample Budget for a 24-hours Visit and 2 Chimpanzee Trekkings:
Park Fees: 100 USD
Accommodation: 40 USD (budget option)
Boat Transfer: 100-150 USD (estimate for private boat split among the group)
Guiding Fees and Meals: 60-80 USD (estimate)
My experience
Day 1
We agreed with Hussein that he would pick us up from accommodation at 9 AM and he was slightly late but nothing too dramatic, especially when it comes to Tanzanian standards. He dropped us at the lakeside where we waited for the boat. It was an average-sized motorboat and the ride was very comfortable. Lots of green hills, small villages, children walking to school and all that. Very scenic and real local life going on!
Once we arrived, we were shown to our rooms. Bed with mosquito net plus a toilet with a cold water bucket shower. Perfectly enough for one night. Then, as the lunch was not ready, we decided to jump into the boat again and go looking for chimpanzees. After a short ride, we were dropped at the beach and together with the ranger we walked into the forest. Soon, we met more rangers whose responsibility was tracking chimpanzees and we were given face masks.
First, we heard them. Then, we spotted them hanging out in the trees. A few minutes later another big group appeared and they were heading to the stream to drink water. It was awesome to watch them from that close and they were totally not bothered by human presence. We had plenty of time to take pictures and watch their behaviour. Most importantly, there were no other tourists around. Just me, my Canadian travel buddy and the guide.
After about an hour, we took a boat again and went back to the National Park HQ for lunch. The staff said that apparently they were told that we didn’t want to have lunch at all so they didn’t prepare any. The organization of the place isn’t on the highest level but after two months in Tanzania, I wasn’t too surprised or pissed. I just told them to give us rice with beans and some bananas. That was exactly what we got.
When our stomachs got full, we went to see the Kakombe Waterfall. The stream in the Kakombe Valley feeds the waterfall in a 20-meter drop down the cliff. A pretty sight and on the way there we were able to see the research building where Jane Goodall used to work. Currently, there are some information boards.
Our guide started heading back but I asked him if we could complete the loop and hike up to the viewpoint. He said we needed to be back at the HQ by 5 PM and we didn’t have enough time but after some encouragement, he agreed and took us there. It was supposed to be about 1-hour hike up but we made it in less than 30 minutes, even though it was steep. Don’t take time predictions in Tanzania too seriously! The views were very nice, with impressively green hills and huge Tanganyika Lake.
Then we descended back to HQ finishing the loop hike. We met with a local researcher who explained to us a bit more about her work. Fascinating! It was great to end the day with a refreshing swim in the lake, followed by a short walk along the lakeside. The water in Tanganyika Lake looked very clean, especially compared to Lake Victoria! Baboons usually hang out around the HQ so keep an eye on them.
Day 2
In the morning we hopped on the boat and did another session of chimpanzee tracking. The place was the same as the day before but there were much more other tourists who arrived for one day trip. We saw a big group chilling right on the hiking path and then we followed them deeper into the forest once they started moving. Unfortunately, humans aren’t as smart as chimpanzees and they started making noises, approaching too close and as a result chimpanzees got annoyed.
One of them passed by really close to me and the guide told me to stay still. Great experience! Then, we climbed the hill to see some more of them sitting high in the tree.
We spent over an hour in the forest and it was time to leave. We came back to the headquarters to pack our things and soon we were on the boat back to Kigoma. Even though it was an expensive trip, I was so happy that I decided to do it. Money will come back, memories will last forever!
