Bukoba: Spending a Day at the Shore of Lake Victoria

Bukoba is a town in northwestern Tanzania, located on the western shore of Lake Victoria, close to the borders of Uganda and Rwanda. It is the capital of the Kagera Region, and a significant cultural, economic, and transportation hub in that part of the country.

It has long been home to the Haya people, one of Tanzania’s major ethnic groups. The Haya have a rich history and were known for their iron smelting technology — some of the oldest and most advanced in Sub-Saharan Africa. Their society was organized under several kingdoms, with Karagwe being the most prominent in the area. These kingdoms were governed by traditional kings called “Bakama.”

During the Scramble for Africa, the Germans colonized what is now mainland Tanzania (then called German East Africa). Bukoba became a strategic administrative centre for the Germans due to its proximity to Lake Victoria. They built infrastructure like roads and introduced cash crops like coffee, which remains an essential economic activity in the region.

After Germany’s defeat in WWI, Britain took over Tanganyika under a League of Nations mandate. Bukoba continued to serve as an administrative and commercial centre during the British era, with further development of agriculture, especially coffee.

After Tanzania gained independence in 1961, Bukoba became part of the newly established Kagera Region. The town played a crucial role in regional politics, especially during the 1978–1979 Uganda-Tanzania War when Tanzanian forces helped overthrow Idi Amin’s regime in Uganda. Kagera Region suffered during the war, especially due to cross-border conflicts, but Bukoba remained resilient.

Today, Bukoba is a quiet but growing town. It’s known for coffee production and trade, lakefront views and fishing and being a gateway for cross-border trade with Uganda and Rwanda.

How to get there?

By Air

From Dar Es Salaam: Several airlines like Air Tanzania and sometimes Precision Air operate flights between Dar es Salaam and Bukoba. Flight time is around 1.5 to 2 hours.

From Mwanza: Flights are rather occasional and the travel takes about 45 minutes.

By Road

From Dar es Salaam: It’s a very long journey, taking 20–24 hours or more, and usually requires changing buses in Mwanza or Kahama.

From Mwanza: You can drive or take a bus. Distance is around 450 km and it takes 10–12 hours by road, depending on conditions.

From Kampala: Bukoba is very close to the Uganda border. You can travel by bus or private car from Kampala to the Mutukula border, then continue south to Bukoba. Travel time is about 6–8 hours.

By Ferry

Probably the most popular and scenic way. MV Victoria and other vessels run between Mwanza and Bukoba. It’s a night ferry and usually takes overnight (about 8–10 hours). It offers cabins for sleeping.

The best time to visit

June to September (Cool & Dry Season): Pleasant weather with cooler temperatures and less humidity. Good for outdoor activities, sightseeing, and lake views. Minimal rainfall, so roads and ferries are more reliable.

December to February (Warm & Dry): Also a good time, though slightly hotter.Great for escaping cold weather if you’re coming from abroad. Local festivals and more social activity around Christmas/New Year.

Where to stay?

I can fully recommend JADORA HOTEL. I didn’t book in advance as the place is not available on booking platforms but I got the room without any issues when I showed up straight after arrival from the ferry terminal. The room was clean and they had a nice restaurant with tasty food. It’s very well located, within walking distance or a short motorbike ride to Lake Victoria. Expect to pay about 30.000 – 40.000 TZS for a double room.

My experience

I reached Bukoba by the ferry from Mwanza and it was much more comfortable than I thought. With a first-class ticket, I got a double cabin with a bunk bed. On the boat, there was also a restaurant, bar and even live music!

Around 6 AM I went out of the room to stand on a deck and observe the sunrise. The sky was cloudy but still, Lake Victoria looked magnificent and I could see that we were approaching our destination.

The day in Bukoba was easy and quite relaxing, as there aren’t too many places to see. First, I decided to walk from the hotel to the lakefront. I passed by Bukoba Cathedral, officially known as Mater Misericordiae Cathedral, which is the main Catholic church in town. The cathedral has a simple design, and it features stained glass windows, religious artwork, and a serene interior for prayer. Christianity in Kagera Region has a deep history, with missionaries arriving in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. The cathedral has been a spiritual centre for generations of Haya people and other communities in Bukoba.

Unfortunately, the lakefront in Bukoba isn’t a very charming place. The beach is quite dirty and the landscape around much less appealing than in Mwanza. Not to mention the colour of the water! I saw some local boys having fun in the water but I didn’t dare to take a dip.

On the horizon, I could see Musira, a small, beautiful island located just off the shore of Bukoba town. The island is traditionally used by local fishermen and sometimes farmers for small-scale activities. It’s one of the closest and most easily accessible islands from the Bukoba mainland — only about 10 to 15 minutes by boat. Boat rides to and around the island are available but it costs 80 USD which is rather expensive if you travel solo. Contact Bukoba Cross Culture Travel and Tours (+255713568276) if you are interested.

Near the beach, you can spot The German Pillars which are historical remnants from the German colonial period. These pillars are believed to have been part of a German fort or administrative structure during German East Africa rule (1880s–1916).

The British Cemetery, on the other side of Jamhuri Road, is a war memorial site where British soldiers who died during the Battle of Bukoba (1916) in World War I are buried. The Battle of Bukoba (June 1916) was fought between British and German forces. British forces, mainly from British East Africa (Kenya & Uganda), launched an attack on Bukoba to weaken German control. The British won and briefly occupied Bukoba, but several soldiers lost their lives in the battle.

For the best lookout in town, visit the Kiroyera Teemba Heritage Site and climb to the top of the rock. The owner can also open a room with a small museum presenting old pictures and tools.

Out of town

Kyamunene Caves and Waterfalls

The caves are formed in limestone or volcanic rock, shaped over centuries by natural erosion. They consist of small chambers surrounded by dense vegetation and forested terrain. Some stories suggest they may have served as shelters during the German or British colonial era, especially for local fighters or people fleeing conflict.

There are two waterfalls, one very close to the entrance and another one within 15 minutes of a pleasant walk through the forest. There are wooden tables and seats, a swing and even a raft. Even though the waterfalls aren’t too impressive, taking into consideration the infrastructure, it’s a great place for a picnic!

To get there, you would need to organize a boda boda or a tuk-tuk. The ride will take about 15 minutes. The entrance fee is way too high but don’t be shy and negotiate it hard. In the end, they will agree so as not to lose the customer.