Let’s start with the fact that there is not much to do in Akhfennir and it’s well off the beaten track. You probably won’t come here unless you head south to Western Sahara.
If you do come over to this coastal town, try the seafood and check out natural spots in the area: Khnifiss National Park and Grotte d’Akhfennir Ajeb Lah.
When to go?
The best time to visit Khnifiss National Park is during the cooler months, typically from October to April. During this time, temperatures are milder, making outdoor activities more enjoyable. Additionally, this period coincides with the winter months when migratory bird populations are at their peak, offering excellent opportunities for birdwatching.
Where to stay?
There are not too many options for accommodation and don’t expect luxury. I stayed in Hotel La Corniche and the room was basic and a bit humid but acceptable for a short stay. It is facing the beach so I could hear the waves of the ocean.
What to see?
You can walk around the town in a few minutes and the beach is something you would like to forget as soon as possible due to the amount of rubbish there.
However, walk along the coastline to the north and soon you will see dramatic cliffs and the edge of the Sahara Desert. The highlight of the cliff walk is Grotte d’Akhfennir Ajeb Lah, also called the Devil’s Hole. It’s a natural cave created by the waves of the Atlantic Ocean. A bit similar to Benagil Cave in the Algarve region of Portugal with the difference that there are no other tourists here!
The second spot that I wanted to visit in that area was Khnifiss National Park. It’s known for its unique coastal and desert ecosystems, featuring diverse wildlife and landscapes. The park encompasses a variety of habitats, including sandy beaches, dunes, wetlands, and rocky cliffs. It’s located about 25 kilometers from Akhfennir. As I didn’t have a car, the only option was to hitchhike. It didn’t take me long to get a ride as two young guys stopped. They said they were only going a short distance but in fact, they did a special detour to drop me off at the park. How nice of them!
I went down to the small pier and soon a fisherman approached me offering a boat trip. I negotiated the price of 300 MAD to take me on a nearly 2 hours trip around the lagoon but then I came up with the idea to invite those two guys that gave me the ride to join me. They agreed! Therefore, in the end, I paid 400 MAD for the 3 of us. They seemed very happy and I was also satisfied that I could return the favour. Only one of them spoke English but we were able to communicate quite well. We saw plenty of birds, including flamingos but the best part was the stop on the dunes. Really impressive place!
After we came back to the pier, the guys gave me a ride to the main road from where I caught an old Land Rover taxi to the next town – Tarfaya.
Taliouine is renowned as the saffron capital of the country, producing a significant portion of Morocco’s saffron, which is one of the world’s most expensive spices. The town is situated in the foothills of the Anti-Atlas Mountains and offers a picturesque landscape.
Taliouine attracts visitors, especially during the saffron harvest season in October, when the fields are vibrant with purple crocus flowers. The saffron festival takes place during this time, celebrating the harvest with cultural events, music, and exhibitions.
Aside from saffron, the region around Taliouine is known for its traditional Berber culture, making it an interesting destination for those seeking an authentic Moroccan experience. The town provides a glimpse into the local way of life, and its surroundings offer opportunities for trekking and exploring the beautiful landscapes of the Anti-Atlas region.
How to get there?
You can fly into Al Massira Airport (AGA) in Agadir or take a bus or grand taxi from there or any other city in Morocco.
It’s 185 kilometres from Agadir to Taliouine and it takes about 2,5 – 3 hours by car. Driving is the most convenient way to explore the area independently.
I recommend using the service of Click’n’Go Car Rental. Very friendly guys and easy to contact on WhatsApp. I ended up renting a Renault Clio for the whole month and got a nice price.
CTM has two bus connections daily and the ticket costs about 80 – 90 MAD. Alternatively, as always in Morocco, you can get a shared grand taxi.
Tislite Gorges is about 45 kilometres from Taliouine and you will need your own wheels to get there. Follow N10 and turn left at Dogadir.
Tislit GorgesTislit Gorges
The best time to visit
Taliouine can be visited at any time of the year but the best time is during the saffron harvest season, which typically occurs in October. This is when the vibrant purple flowers bloom, and you can experience the lively atmosphere of the saffron festival while enjoying pleasant weather.
Where to stay?
I spent a night in Auberge Restaurant le Safran Taliouine. It’s not too fancy but accommodation options in Taliouine are limited. It was clean and had a hot shower so it basically fulfilled all my needs.
If you wish to stay in the local guesthouse near Tislit Gorges, I recommend Maison d’hôte Tazziba Tislit. You can contact them at gifetisslit@gmail.com
How long to stay there?
Taliouine is a small town so you can easily have a walk around it and then visit Tislit Gorges in one day. If you are an avid hiker and would like to explore the Anti Atlas mountains there, more time will be required.
What to see in town?
Kasbah
Though the kasbah is largely a ruin, it provides a nice panorama with the hills in the background.
Atelier-galerie de Moulid Nid Oiussadan
Moulid Nidouissadan is an Amazigh poet and calligrapher who paints vibrant compositions and Berber proverbs. I received a free sample of his skills including my name in Berber, created with saffron ink. Even though he doesn’t speak much English, I felt very welcome and the visit there really made my day! Who knows, maybe my next tattoo will be a symbol of a free man? That would be cool!
Dar Azaafaran
This modern information centre has a small museum about saffron and you can buy products from local cooperatives. Most displays are in French but there is some information in English. Opening hours are not followed so you need to be lucky to find it open.
Coopérative Souktana du Safran
The biggest and oldest saffron cooperative in Taliouine was established in 1979. They can sell you saffron as well as related goods like chocolates, cosmetics, and calligraphy ink, and they can also explain how saffron is made and offer you a tasting.
Hiking trips
For those who want to trek nearby Anti Atlas, Taliouine is a well-liked destination. Trekking guides can be hired through local businesses or lodging providers.
Agadir Ifri Imadiden
An authentic agadir, so fortified communal granary, located about 20 minutes drive from Taliouine. Park in the village of Ifri, and continue on foot. Most probably kids will join you on the way. If they open the wooden door and you go inside, expect to pay 20 MAD and better to have the exact amount or you can forget about the change.
Agadir Ifri Imadiden
Tislite Gorges
You have two options to get there: either park in Assaisse, and then walk about 3 km, or drive directly to the Tislit village. The road is rough but doable, even in Renault Clio.
Park next to the Maison d’hôte Tazziba Tisslit. If you have time, it’s worth considering staying there for the night. Looks like a great and authentic experience. The family is nice and you can buy some saffron or at least get some tea or coffee before you start the hike.
I went down to the gorge, passing by a few women selling saffron. Luckily, they weren’t too pushy. Well, I guess it’s a nice spice but I don’t even know how to use it so I didn’t buy any.
The gorge is full of amazing rock formations which make you feel like you are on another planet. The feeling was even stronger as I was there totally alone. You can scramble up some of the rocks to get a better panoramic view and nice photo opportunity but be careful. When the landscape opened up, I decided to turn around and come back the same way.
I continued following the riverbed to the west of Tislit village and it was worth it as well. The gorge there was completely different but still amazing! Unfortunately, it was difficult to go all the way through without serious scrambling as it was blocked by huge stones and water.
Vientiane, the capital of Laos, has a rich history dating back to the 9th century. Initially, it was a Khmer settlement, but it became part of the Lan Xang Kingdom in the 14th century under King Fa Ngum. The city flourished as the kingdom’s capital, serving as a centre for Buddhism and trade.
In the 16th century, Vientiane faced conflicts with neighbouring kingdoms and later fell under Siamese (Thai) control in the 18th century. The city experienced periods of instability and changed hands between Siamese and Burmese forces.
During the French colonial era in the late 19th century, Vientiane became part of French Indochina. The French influence is evident in some colonial architecture still present today. Laos gained independence in 1954, and Vientiane became the capital of the newly formed Kingdom of Laos.
Patuxay Monument
The Vietnam War had a significant impact on Vientiane as the city faced bombing raids due to its proximity to the Ho Chi Minh Trail. After the war, Laos became a socialist state, and Vientiane continued to develop as the capital.
Today, Vientiane is a mix of traditional Lao culture, French colonial influences, and modern development mainly financed by China, making it a unique blend of history and contemporary life. Even though it is the capital city, there’s not a whole lot to do there, but it is still an enjoyable place that shouldn’t be missed.
When to go?
The most popular time to visit Laos is between November and April, at least if you don’t like rain as it’s the dry season. However, nothing is as easy as it seems. You won’t get wet, but it’s the time of intense agricultural burnouts with dense haze hanging over the mountains and the air quality is regularly rated as unhealthy.
I traveled to Laos in March but next time I would go at the very beginning or at the end of the rainy season, so in October or May. Getting a bit wet is certainly better than breathing in all that air pollution!
How to get there?
If you’re flying, major airlines often have routes to Wattay International Airport in Vientiane.
From Thailand, it’s possible to cross via the First Thai-Lao Friendship Bridge from Nong Khai. Alternatively, you can explore overland options, such as buses or trains, depending on your starting point. Check your connections at 12Go.Asia.
Ensure you have a valid visa if required, and consider checking the latest travel advisories and entry regulations for Laos. Once in Vientiane, taxis, tuk-tuks, and rental vehicles are available for local transportation.
The aerial view of VientianeThe aerial view of Vientiane
Where to stay?
I spent two nights in Apartment Thidathip which was a great choice. There was a small living room, kitchen, bedroom and bathroom. Plenty of space! The owner was very friendly and he rented me a scooter. It was good to get around the city but I wouldn’t risk a long-distance trip as its condition was far from perfect.
How long should you stay?
The major sights of the city can be seen comfortably in one day. If you plan to check some spots further away, such as Phou Khao Khouay National Bio-Diversity Conservation Area or Buddha Park, I would suggest a minimum of two days.
Sights
Patuxay Monument
The replica of the Arc de Triomphe in Vientiane dominates the business area near Rue Lan Xang. Its official name is “Victory Gate” and it commemorates the Lao who lost their lives in pre-revolutionary warfare. It was constructed in the 1960s using cement provided by the United States for use in building a new airport. Reach the summit for sweeping views of Vientiane.
Patuxay MonumentPatuxay Monument
Pha That Luang
Pha Golden That Luang, a symbol of Lao sovereignty and Buddhism, is the most significant national monument. According to legend, as early as the third century BC, Indian Ashokan missionaries built a stupa here to house a fragment of the Buddha’s breastbone. The 45-meter-tall stupa is surrounded by a high-walled cloister with tiny windows. The cloister is 85 metres wide on each side and is home to several Buddha statues and a statue of Jayavarman VII, the famous Angkorian ruler who changed the Khmer Empire’s official religion to Buddhism.
Pha That LuangPha That LuangPha That Luang
COPE Visitor Center
Laos is considered to be the most bombed country on earth and unexploded ordnance from the Vietnam War keeps wounding and killing people. COPE is the abbreviation of Cooperative Orthotic & Prosthetic Enterprise and it provides casualties with artificial limbs, walking aids and wheelchairs.
It’s a very educational and informative place. Don’t miss the screening room for showings of several documentaries. Entrance is free but a donation is highly encouraged to support their recovery programs.
Wat Si Saket
It’s the oldest surviving temple in the capital of Laos, built by the last monarch of the Kingdom of Vientiane and dates back to the 19th century. You can experience a tranquil atmosphere while exploring the temple grounds, adorned with numerous Buddha statues and well-preserved murals.
Wat Si SaketWat Si Saket
Wat Si Muang
The people in the area have a great deal of respect for one of the most significant and well-known religious locations in the city. It is thought that the temple was erected on the site where, during the city’s building, a young woman by the name of Si Muang gave herself as a sacrifice. The main pillar of the temple is said to have been penetrated by her spirit, endowing it with supernatural strength and elevating it to a sacred site.
The Sim, the ordination hall and centre of religious activity, is the primary attraction of the temple. It is embellished with vivid murals and detailed carvings that tell Buddhist mythology and stories. There are numerous religious objects and a sizable statue of Buddha within the Sim. The custom of residents visiting Wat Si Muang to create merit and ask for blessings for significant life events is one of the temple’s distinctive features.
Ho Phrakeo Museum
Haw Pha Kaeo, a once-royal temple constructed especially to accommodate the renowned Emerald Buddha, is now a small national museum of religious art. A small collection of Lao Buddhas, Khmer carvings, and artefacts from nearby temples may be found in the main hall.
Wat Ong Teu
Although the temple’s exterior is pretty typical of those in Vientiane, the building itself and its surroundings are in good shape. It is thought to have stood on a location that was originally used for religious purposes in the third century. King Setthathirat first constructed it in the middle of the 16th century. Nonetheless, it was destroyed in subsequent battles with the Siamese, just like practically every other temple in Vientiane, and reconstructed in the 20th century.
Presidential Palace in Vientiane
That Dam Stupa
This stupa is said to have originally had a layer of gold covering it. According to legend, the gold was taken by the Siamese during their 1828 raid, which is when the stupa earned the nickname “black.” This is somewhat contradicted by another tale, which claims that the stupa is the home of a seven-headed dragon that was dormant until the Siamese-Lao War of 1828 when it awoke to protect the people of the area.
Kaysone Phomvihane Museum
Kaysone Phomvihane was the first leader of an independent Laos. The museum was established in 1995 to commemorate his 75th birthday. The museum is an expansive homage to Kaysone’s cult, with an enormous bronze monument of him in front and other massive sculptures that feature important people in Laos. The structure is filled with a complete collection of memorabilia of both Kaysone and the Party.
Lao National Museum
There are some interesting exhibits here even though the selection of objects and pictures is not as extensive or well-organized as you might anticipate at a national museum. A collection of antiquated artefacts that document the early history of the area, including dinosaur bones, shards of pottery, and Khmer sculptures, are kept on the ground level.
The displays upstairs provide additional insight, tracing Laos’ turbulent contemporary history from the French colonial era and Siamese invasions to the American military’s involvement in the Vietnam War and up to the present. Since the establishment of communism in 1975 and the fight for independence are heavily emphasised, the museum was originally dubbed the Lao Revolutionary Museum.
Lao Textile Museum
This estate features multiple wooden houses designed in the native style, with a focus on textiles from many ethnic groups and the phases of weaving and dying.
Outside of town
Buddha Park
A quiet place full of Buddhist and Hindu sculptures, located about 25 km southeast of central Vientiane. The park was started in 1958 by Luang Pu Bunleua Sulilat who was a priest-shaman who integrated Hinduism and Buddhism. The statues appear to be centuries old but in fact, they are quite new. They are made of reinforced concrete and are sometimes quite bizarre in design.
To get there, you can take bus #14 from Talat Sao Bus Station, hire a tuk tuk or ride a rented motorbike. An entrance ticket costs 40,000 LAK for tourists.
Buddha Park
Phou Khao Khouay National Bio-Diversity Conservation Area
The park covers more than 2000 km2 and is home to a wide array of endangered wildlife, including wild elephants, gibbons, Asiatic black bears, clouded leopards, Siamese fireback pheasants and green peafowls. It’s not a very popular place, therefore it’s not that easy to plan the visit there.
As I couldn’t find any organized tours, I went there on a rented motorbike. It’s about 100 km and 2.5 hours ride one way. The full-day trip makes sense only if you leave very early but still, it’s pretty far away, I must say.
Phou Khao Khouay National Bio-Diversity Conservation Area
First, I visited Tat Leuk Waterfall. The ride there was quite fun, as I followed the dirt road deeper and deeper into the forest. Unfortunately, in the dry season, there was hardly any water flowing. Another waterfall worth checking in is Tat Xai.
When it comes to trekking, the options vary from a couple of hours to a couple of days and the best is to consult your plans at Tourism Information Centre in Vientiane (if you are lucky enough to find it open).
The region between Mirleft and Sidi Ifni is characterized by a captivating coastal stretch along the southwestern part of Morocco. This area is known for its rugged cliffs, scenic beaches, and a blend of traditional Berber communities with a touch of colonial history.
While not as heavily developed as some more touristy areas, the region maintains a certain authenticity, offering travellers a chance to experience the raw beauty of the Moroccan coastline. Exploring the towns, interacting with locals, and enjoying the tranquillity of the beaches contribute to the charm of this coastal stretch between Mirleft and Sidi Ifni.
How to get there?
You can fly into Al Massira Airport (AGA) in Agadir and take a bus or grand taxi from there or from any other city in Morocco. It’s about 140 km and over a 2-hour drive from Agadir to Mirleft and from there another 20 km to Legzira Beach. Sidi Ifni is 10 km further to the south. Check your connections at 12go.com.
For those who prefer to be independent, I recommend using the service of Click’n’Go Car Rental in Agadir— very friendly guys and easy to contact on WhatsApp. I rented a Renault Clio for the whole month and got a nice price.
The best time to visit
The best time to visit the southern Atlantic coast in Morocco is during the spring (March to May) and fall (September to November) when the weather is mild and pleasant. Summer can be quite hot, while winter brings cooler but enjoyable temperatures. Choosing spring or fall ensures a comfortable climate for enjoying nearby beaches and exploring the city and its surroundings.
How long to stay there?
You should have a full day to comfortably enjoy the beaches in this region of the Atlantic Coast and have nice walks around Mirleft and Sidi Ifni.
Mirleft
During the 20th century, like many coastal areas in Morocco, Mirleft attracted attention from European powers. The town was used as a trade and fishing port by the Spanish, similar to the nearby Sidi Ifni. However, it did not undergo such an extensive colonization.
in the post-colonial era, Mirleft experienced development and growth, becoming a popular destination for surfers and travellers seeking a laid-back coastal atmosphere. The city doesn’t offer much but it’s the nearby beaches and scenic roads along the coast that justify the visit.
For the panoramic views, head to Fort de Tidli – the ruins of a French military fort. When it comes to the beaches, take your time to visit them all or at least stop by for some great photo opportunities or to admire the surfers: Imin Turga, Aftass, Sidi Mohammed Ben Abdellah, Tamhrouchte or Sidi El Wafi.
Atlantic Coast around MirleftAtlantic Coast around MirleftAtlantic Coast around MirleftAtlantic Coast around MirleftAtlantic Coast around Mirleft
Legzira Beach
Legzira Beach is famous for its huge rock arch. The arch is accessible at low tide, and it is quite a stunning sight to see. It’s a short walk from the parking but optionally you can take a camel or quad ride. I don’t recommend it though as it’s much better to enjoy the place in silence, listening to the sound of Atlantic waves rather than a noisy engine.
There were originally two arches, but one collapsed in late 2016. Hopefully, the second arch won’t suffer the same fate as the ocean continues to erode the red sandstone from which it is formed. The beach is also a popular spot for surfing. It’s also worth checking out the other end, called Yasscobar Beach.
A bit further south there is a turn-off from the main road into the dirt one. Follow the directions to “Lkherba n’Brahim” on Google Maps. Take a path behind the building to the magnificent viewpoint on top of one of the cliffs.
Arch at Legzira BeachArch at Legzira BeachYasscobar BeachViewpoint near Lkherba n’Brahim
Sidi Ifni
Sidi Ifni’s history is intertwined with both Moroccan and Spanish influences. Originally a modest fishing village, it gained prominence when it fell under Spanish control in 1860. The Spanish established a settlement, transforming the area with colonial architecture that remains a distinctive feature of the town.
Under Spanish rule, Sidi Ifni developed economically and culturally. However, tensions arose as Morocco sought to regain control of its territories. In 1969, after years of negotiations, Morocco reclaimed Sidi Ifni, marking the end of Spanish presence. The transition wasn’t without challenges, but the town gradually adapted to Moroccan governance.
The town hall in Sidi Ifni
The small old Spanish part of town is the main attraction. Hassan II Square is surrounded by colonial architecture, including the town hall, law courts, Hôtel La Belle Vue and the former Spanish consulate. Close to the square, you will find the lighthouse with some nice panoramic views of the beach and the Atlantic Ocean.
Hassan II SquareFormer Spanish consulate
The beach is wide and picturesque although it’s not the best for swimming due to the strong waves and stones on the shore. Surfing is a popular activity here so you may test your skills or take a lesson or two.
Near to the beach, it’s worth checking out a bit of odd construction – the clifftop shiphouse, which served as the Spanish Naval Secretariat.
Tiznit, a town in southwestern Morocco, has a rich history dating back to the 17th century. In 1881, Sultan Moulay Al Hassan founded Tiznit as a base from which he could assert his authority over the rebel Berber tribes to the south. To do this, he built the city walls. The town’s strategic location facilitated trade routes and contributed to its growth.
Tiznit witnessed the emergence of a resistance movement led by Moulay Ahmed Al Hiba Maa Al Ainine (Blue Sultan) in 1912 when the protectorate treaty was signed. With the support of the tribes of the Souss and the Sahara, he led an army towards Marrakech but ended up defeated by the French. He eventually took refuge in the Anti-Atlas, where he continued the resistance until his death from an illness in 1919.
Tiznit is renowned for its unique architecture, characterized by red-earth ramparts built to protect the town. The medina, a maze of narrow streets and alleys, showcases traditional Moroccan craftsmanship, particularly in silver jewellery production, for which the town is famous. The city’s name, Tiznit, is derived from the Berber language, meaning “the lock,” which alludes to its fortified nature.
How to get there?
You can fly into Al Massira Airport (AGA) in Agadir or take a bus or grand taxi from there or any other city in Morocco. It’s about 100 km and 1.5 hours drive from Agadir. Check your connections at 12go.com.
For those who prefer to be independent, I recommend using the service of Click’n’Go Car Rental. Very friendly guys and easy to contact on WhatsApp. I ended up renting a Renault Clio for the whole month and got a nice price.
The best time to visit
The best time to visit Tiznit is during the spring (March to May) and fall (September to November) when the weather is mild and pleasant. Summer can be quite hot, while winter brings cooler but enjoyable temperatures. Choosing spring or fall ensures a comfortable climate for enjoying nearby beaches and exploring the city and its surroundings.
Lots of streetsellers around the town
Where to stay?
My overnight stay in Tiznit was rather spontaneous and as soon as I arrived, I looked for a hotel with decent reviews. Hotel Restaurant Patisserie Amoudou offered nice, spacious, clean and well-furnished rooms for only 200 MAD. Very friendly staff and video-guarded parking space. They also have a restaurant and bakery which is very good.
How long to stay there?
Tiznit is a small town so you won’t need more than a few hours to walk around the town. It’s a convenient stopover place between Souss-Massa National Park and Lagzira Beach or Sidi Ifni.
What to see in town?
Source Bleue
The legend has it that a woman of ill repute named Lalla Zninia stopped to rest here in what was then a plain desert. She spent the next three days repenting her wicked ways, and God was so impressed that he showed forgiveness by having a spring gush beneath her feet. Today the spring is like a shallow pool with some birds and local people chilling around.
Source Bleue
Almassjid Alkabir
The Great Mosque of Tiznit with its minaret bristling with wooden poles was built in line with the style of Sahelian mosques. The legend suggests this is where the souls of the dead congregate. This place of worship is closed to non-Muslims.
Almassjid Alkabir
Kasbat Aghanaj
A massive 19th-century fortress. The door was open so I could go inside for free and see the restored internal courtyard, but there was nothing else to do.
Bab Lakhmis and Bab Tarwga
Historic city gates look particularly nice at sunset. Bab Tawga leads towards farm fields and the oasis.
Bab Lakhmis
What to see out of town?
Souss-Massa National Park
The Souss Massa National Park has been a natural reserve since 1991 and it covers an area of 33,800 hectares. It is located between Agadir to the north and Sidi Ifni to the south, including the landscape of the coastline, dunes, marshes and the steppes.
Over 300 plant species and over 30 fauna species can be found there, including the Oryx antelope and the Dorcas gazelle, as well as foxes and wild cats. Moreover, the Souss Massa Natural Park is home to the world’s largest colony of Bald Ibis and the wetlands act as a stopover for many other migratory birds.
Agadir, located along Morocco’s southern Atlantic coast, has a history marked by diverse influences. In 1505, the Portuguese established a trading post, followed by the Saadians in the 16th century. Agadir thrived as a bustling port city until it faced a devastating event in 1960 – the Agadir earthquake, which resulted in widespread destruction and significant loss of life.
Following the earthquake, around half of the population perished and Agadir was rebuilt with modern infrastructure and urban planning. Today, it is a popular tourist destination known for its beaches, souks, and vibrant culture, blending the remnants of its historic past with contemporary developments.
How to get there?
You can fly into Al Massira Airport (AGA) or take a bus or grand taxi from other cities in Morocco. Check your connections at 12go.com.
The view to the port from the Kasbah
The best time to visit
The best time to visit Agadir is during the spring (March to May) and fall (September to November) when the weather is mild and pleasant. Summer can be quite hot, while winter brings cooler but still enjoyable temperatures. Choosing spring or fall ensures a comfortable climate for enjoying the beach but also exploring the city and its surroundings.
Camel rides are available at the Kasbah
Where to stay?
During my 2 months trip around Morocco, I visited Agadir twice. I didn’t stay in a resort as these kinds of places aren’t my style, so I picked reasonably rated hotels a bit further from the beach, but still within walking distance.
The first time I stayed at Hotel Kamal City Center. The room was old-fashioned and without air conditioning so it was getting really hot during the day and it was already autumn. I can’t imagine staying there in the summer! On the positive side, I asked for a room with fast internet and I got one. The price was reasonable and the location was excellent.
The second time I checked in to Hotel Lynx and it was excellent. Very friendly receptionist, spacious room and bathroom, air-conditioning, fast internet, small balcony and plenty of restaurants around. The location is a bit further from the beach but still, it’s a 25 minutes walk or less than 10 minutes taxi ride, so very acceptable.
The cable car to the Kasbah
How long to stay there?
The typical visit could range from 3 to 7 days, allowing time to explore the city, relax on the beaches, and possibly take a day trip to some nearby attraction. Though it’s really up to personal preferences, I know people who like going for a typical resort-style holiday and staying in Agadir for 2 weeks. If you want to laze around, then it will be a place for you. If you are an adventure seeker, pack your things and get around southern Morocco and the Sahara.
What to see in town?
Kasbah
It was built in 1541 and luckily survived the 1960 earthquake. Unfortunately, today only the outer walls remain and the interior can’t be visited. There are amazing views from the hilltop and it’s highly recommended to visit in the late afternoon and wait for sunset.
You have 3 options to get there: cable car, taxi and walking. The first one is certainly the most fun. A shared car costs 120 MAD for foreigners and the whole construction looks very modern and safe. If you travel in a group, you may consider taking a private car.
Kasbah is a great place to see the sunset!Night panorama from the KasbahUnfortunately, the Kasbah cannot be visited inside
Jardin de Olhao
A nice little oasis in the busy centre of Agadir. Great to escape the afternoon heat and read a book on a bench or play with the children. In the southwest corner, there is a small museum, dedicated to the 1960 earthquake. Information boards aren’t in English but you can see the photos of the town before the tragedy.
Museum of Amazigh Culture
I expected more about the Berber and Amazigh cultures but only found a few carpets and jewellery. The rest was contemporary art which I am personally not a big fan of. The entrance ticket for foreigners costs 40 MAD.
Marina
Modern port with plenty of holiday apartments, shops, cafes and restaurants, located at the northern end of the promenade.
Beach and promenade
Clean and well-maintained beach, patrolled by lifeguards and the police so it feels very safe. Deckchairs and umbrellas can be hired and if you need more fun, camel riding, windsurfing, jet skis or surfing can be easily organized.
The promenade is about 4 kilometres long and it’s an excellent place for an evening stroll and a drink in one of the many restaurants and bars along it.
The beach in Agadir
Mohamed V Mosque
The biggest mosque in Agadir. Tourists can`t go inside but it’s still worth a stop to admire the marvellous architecture.
Mohamed V Mosque in Agadir
Souk El Had
Huge place where you can expect to find a wide variety of products, including traditional Moroccan handicrafts, leather goods, textiles, spices, fresh produce, and much more. Unfortunately, there are also lots of cheap fakes, so be careful what you are buying and don’t forget to haggle.
Agadir Medina
The recreation of the old Medina which was destroyed by the earthquake in 1960. Quite a few craft shops, artisans and restaurants. Unfortunately, it all feels a bit fake so I wouldn’t waste time coming here if you plan to visit another Moroccan city with real stuff. The entrance ticket costs 40 MAD and it’s a bit out of the way so you need to take a taxi to get there.
Agadir Medina
What to see out of town?
Taghazout and Tamraght
The fishing villages of Taghazout and Tamraght are located north of Agadir. They are among the most popular beach destinations in the country, well-known for famous surfing spots that are suitable for advanced as well as beginners.
One of the most popular places to visit from Agadir, also easily accessible from Taghazout or Tamraght. It’s a small oasis with pools scattered all along the river, all in the middle of breathtaking mountains. Instead of swimming, you can do cliff jumping to boost your adrenaline level. Needless to say, be careful as there have been some accidents in the past. For less adventurous, there are a few stands at the beginning of the valley where you can get a table and cool your feet in the water. The easiest to get there is with an organized half-day trip.
Paradise ValleyParadise Valley
Timlalin Dunes
Impressive dunes with stunning views. You can rent equipment and do some sandboarding or simply walk around. The best way to get there is by car and the day trip can be easily connected with a visit to Imsouane which is described below.
Imsouane
Imsouane is a small fishing village located on Morocco’s southwestern coast, about 1 hour 15 minutes drive to the north of Taghazout. Due to its location at the mouth of a large bay, it’s another ideal surfing spot.
Souss-Massa National Park
The Souss Massa National Park has been a natural reserve since 1991 and it covers an area of 33,800 hectares. It is located between Agadir to the north and Sidi Ifni to the south, including the landscape of the coastline, dunes, marshes and the steppes.
Over 300 plant species and over 30 fauna species can be found there, including the Oryx antelope and the Dorcas gazelle, as well as foxes and wild cats. Moreover, the Souss Massa Natural Park is home to the world’s largest colony of Bald Ibis and the wetlands act as a stopover for many other migratory birds.
Agadir is a different city than all the others I visited in Morocco. Don’t come here to experience the real vibe and culture of that beautiful northern African country. Tourists are attracted mainly because of the beachfront promenade, great weather and the comfort of staying in the resorts. It’s a typical destination for package-tour holidaymakers, but independent travellers who look after adventure and authentic experience should treat it more like a transit spot rather than a base for a longer stay. Or at least organize some trips out of town 🙂
El Caminito del Rey, located in the province of Malaga, is a breathtaking and exhilarating footpath that winds its way through the stunning El Chorro Gorge. Known as the “King’s Little Pathway”, it offers an adrenaline-pumping adventure as it clings to the sheer cliffs, suspended high above the Guadalhorce River.
Originally it was constructed for workers to access a hydroelectric power plant. The construction began in 1901 and was finished in 1905. King Alfonso XIII crossed the walkway in 1921 for the inauguration of the dam Conde del Guadalhorce, and because of that the trail became known by its present name. The original path deteriorated over the years, and there were numerous sections where part or all of the concrete top had collapsed. Few of the original handrails remained, although a safety wire ran the length of the path. Several people died on the walkway and, after two fatal accidents in 1999 and 2000, the local government closed the entrance.
The regional government of Andalusia and the local government of Malaga agreed in June 2011 to share the restoration costs of €9 million. The project took approximately three years to complete.
Today, the scenic route provides awe-inspiring views of the dramatic landscape, featuring rugged rock formations and the turquoise waters below, making it a must-visit destination for those seeking both natural beauty and a memorable outdoor experience.
How to get there?
Car
Take the A–357 motorway and go towards the MA-5403, through the Towns of Cártama, Pizarra, Carratraca, and Ardales. This route is 59.1 km long, and it takes about 50 minutes to get there.
You can park in the Visitors’ Reception Centre Parking for 2 EUR per day. There you will find the shuttle bus stop. Once you finish the hike at the Southern Access (near El Chorro), the shuttle bus will take you back to the parking. The bus ticket costs 2.50 EUR.
Train and bus
First, take a train to El Chorro – El Caminito del Rey Station. Then, change to the shuttle bus going towards the northern access point. It takes about 2 hours to get there from Malaga.
Shuttle bus trips start at 08:30 from the Southern area and operate every 30 minutes until 16:30. For the train schedule, check at the official site of RENFE.
Organized tour
In this situation, you don’t have to worry about anything. Just come to the agreed meeting point and enjoy the bus ride. As I didn’t have a car and wanted to save some time, it was my chosen option. The tour started at 8:30 AM at the pick-up point near the train station and finished at 3 PM at the same spot. I signed up for the one advertised on Get Your Guide, and the link to it is below:
The best time to visit
The trail can be visited at any time of the year. The best is to avoid summer as then it gets crowded. I visited in December and it was really nice, although the temperature was about 15C and it was windy so better to have a warmer jacket.
Tickets
You can reserve and purchase your ticket through this website or directly at the northern access of the Caminito, at the ticket office. Booking in advance is highly recommended at any time of the year as the number of tickets is limited. Guided visits cost 18 EUR and general entry tickets cost 10 EUR.
The guided tours from Malaga cost about 50 EUR and include transportation, entrance tickets and a guide.
Beautiful panorama at the beginning of the trail
Opening hours
El Caminito del Rey is open from Tuesday to Sunday, except December 24th, 25th, 31st and January 1st.
Trail details
El Caminito del Rey is a one-way trail and you must start at the northern access point. According to me, the difficulty of the path is easy as it mainly descends although there are both uphill and downhill parts.
The full length of the path is 7.7 km, of which 4.9 km are accessways and 2.9 km is the boardwalk. Covering that distance can take between 2 to 4 hours, depending on your pace. Don’t rush though, as the views are worth taking it slowly.
Once you arrive at Bar Restaurante El Kiosko, you must decide which access trail you want. The first option is a 2.7 km long trail of Gaitanejo. The second option is 1.5 km long as it takes a shortcut through the pedestrian tunnel. Both trails arrive at the Northern Access Control Booth which is the official start of the Caminito del Rey.
The tour
As mentioned before, I opted for a guided tour starting from Malaga. The meeting point was near the train station and pick-up time was scheduled for 8:30 AM. We left on time and soon received a warm welcome from our two guides: Violetta and Christian.
After about an hour, we arrived at the parking where the bus stopped for a toilet break. From there, it was another a few minutes drive to the start of the hike. As we exited the bus, everyone got a small bottle of water.
We took the access road that goes through the pedestrian tunnel. After the tunnel and the bridge, we turned around to watch the interesting rock formation consisting mainly of four huge hollows.
One of the first tunnelsHuge hollows in the rocks
Soon, we arrived at the reception booth, located near the Gaitanejo Hydroelectric Power Station, which is one of the oldest in Spain. There is where we got the helmets.
As we progressed, our guide pointed out another interesting sight – the remains of troglodytic houses which were made using the softness and hollowness of sandstone for their construction. They were living places for people involved in shepherding and agriculture, but also for dam construction workers and workers of El Caminito.
Remains of old housesWe continued the hike, already with helmets
The rocky wall further ahead where commemorative plaques hang, marks the water level reached on different historical floods caused by strong storms. On the right-hand side, you will find an information panel about the history of El Caminito del Rey, after which you will enter the boardwalk leading into the Gaitanejo Gorge. The distance from wall to wall is less than 10 meters and it’s pretty deep too. Impressive!
We continued strolling on the boardwalk passing through another small tunnel. Alternatively, you can go around it if you wish. A bit further on there is the bridge which was crossed by King Alfonso the 13th in 1921.
We were also able to spot some wildlife!
The most impressive parts of the trail were still ahead of us though. The tall rocky mass of San Cristobal’s Mountain towers above the boardwalk and is just breathtaking.
The Glass Balcony that stands on the rocky buttress is a vertigo test for many and it allows one to fully admire the vastness of the canyon. This was my favourite section of the hike. And there was another highlight just in front – the Hanging Bridge!
The last section of the boardwalk is just amazing!
The metallic boardwalk hangs 105 meters above the ground and is 35 meters long. Luckily, it isn’t too shaky even in strong winds so I was able to cross it comfortably, even though I am normally not so easygoing with heights.
The highlight of the hike – Hanging Bridge!Luckily the construction is very stable even in strong winds!Don’t look down 🙂
The last part of the trail goes down following the stairs and after you exit through the gate, it’s a wide path. We passed by the Chapel School also called ‘Ermita de la Medalla de la Milagrosa’. It was built by Rafael Benjumea, as well as other buildings in the village nearby for the children of technicians and workmen and later on for the workers of the Station Salto del Chorro.
Shortly after, we reached the place with chairs and tables as well as small boots serving food and drink. It was the end of El Caminito del Rey!
I was perfectly satisfied with the guided tour. The guides were amiable and explained everything in two languages: Spanish and English. There was no pressure to walk faster or slower so everyone had enough time to enjoy the place and take plenty of pictures.
Tetouan, a city in northern Morocco, has a rich history dating back to the 3rd century BCE. Initially settled by the Berbers, it later became a Phoenician and Carthaginian outpost. In the 8th century, it fell under Arab rule and played a significant role during the Islamic period.
The city’s prominence grew in the 15th century when it became the base for Muslim and Andalusian refugees expelled from Spain. Tetouan became a hub for arts and sciences, blending Islamic, Arab, and Andalusian influences. It served as the capital of the Spanish protectorate in Northern Morocco from 1913 to 1956.
Today, Tetouan stands as a UNESCO World Heritage site, renowned for its well-preserved historic medina, reflecting its diverse cultural heritage.
How to get there?
Tetouan is one of the most popular and touristy cities in northern Morocco, so it can be reached very easily.
Bus
CTM has a few daily departures from Tangier and Chefchaouen. They have a private bus station so make sure that you inform the taxi driver to take you to CTM Bus Station and not Gare Routiere.
Alternatively, you may use Supratours or any other bus operators which depart from the main bus station (Gare Routiere).
The trip bus takes about 1 hour from Tangier and up to 2 hours from Chefchaouen.
Grand taxi
The grand taxi rank is just next to the bus station in Tangier. The names of the different destinations are written on the walls.
In Chefchaouen, the grand taxi rank is located about a kilometre to the west of Plaza Mohammed V.
The best time to visit
The best time to visit Tetouan is during the spring (April to June) and fall (September to October) when the weather is mild and pleasant. Summer can be quite hot, while winter brings cooler temperatures. Choosing spring or fall ensures a comfortable climate for exploring the city and its surroundings.
Where to stay?
I spent one night at Tetouan House. It’s a private apartment and the family rents affordable rooms to tourists. The room was fine, although a bit cold in December. Don’t expect any luxuries. It’s more about the experience than comfort. The owner is very friendly though and I was welcomed with some cookies and mandarines. The flat is located on the third floor of Dar Tair, a beautiful building with an impressive bronze statue at its top.
If you are looking for more comfort, check what the city has to offer on booking.com
How long to stay there?
One day is enough to see all the sights without rushing and to enjoy some time in the cafe sipping mint tea and observing the local lifestyle.
What to see?
Michouar’s Square and the Royal Palace
This spot offers a good view of the Royal Palace, although you can’t get close to the main gate as it’s fenced off. The tall art-nouveau light towers were designed by Enrique Nieta, a student of Gaudi. Ave Mohammed V connects Michouar’s Square with Moulay El Mehdi Square and is full of beautiful colonial architecture. One can really feel like in Spain! Don’t miss Dar Tair, with an impressive bronze statue at its top, and Cinema Espanol, only a block away.
Dar El Oddi
The family house El Oddi has been restored to its former glory and today the interior looks impressive. Inside are collections of pictures, reproductions, postcards and stamps showing the city of Tetuan.
An entrance ticket costs 25 MAD. Ring the bell and someone from the staff will open it for you.
Madrasa Loukach
One of the highlights of my visit to Tetuan. It’s a building of a former religious school built in 1758 on the order of the Alaouite Sultan Mohammed ben Abdallah with a beautiful garden in the middle. The rooms are themed and well organized, with English translations. Tell me it’s not impressive that students were able to memorize the entire book of the Quran!
Archeology Museum
A small museum with artefacts from the Roman ruins at Lixus (near Larache) which are displayed inside and outside in the gardens. Entry ticket costs only 10 MAD but there are no English translations.
The Regional Nationalist Museum
A small museum in a 19th-century riad with artefacts and photos relating to the struggle for independence. There is also the history of Morocco’s kings. It’s free to visit but there are no English captions.
Bab el-Okla
One of the seven gates that make up the city walls, was built in the 16th century. I would say that it’s the most impressive one. It leads to the maze of shopping streets and eventually, you should end up at the main square with the Royal Palace.
Artisanal School
This is another beautiful example of architecture both outside and inside. The building is located just outside Bab el-Okla. It was closed on the day of my visit but normally you can see students being taught traditional arts (ornamental woodwork, carved plaster, mosaics, costumes).
Ethnographic Museum
A small museum presenting textiles, housewares and other cultural artefacts from Jewish and Muslim residents. You will get nice views of the city and the Rif Mountains from the terrace. The entrance ticket cost 30 MAD and the visit was made very enjoyable by one of the security guys who speaks good English and acts as a guide.
Tannery
Tanneries are traditional places of processing leather. The place is much smaller than the famous one in Fez and there were no craftsmen around on my visit. Lots of leather cuts and garbage can be found lying around. On the plus side is that it’s probably one of few tanneries in Morocco where no one tries to rip you off. It’s free to visit.
Next to it is one of the seven entry gates to the medina: Bab Mkabar, leading to a nearby cemetery.
Moulay El Mehdi Square
A very busy place with the Spanish Consulate on one side and the Church of Our Lady of Victories on the other.
Feddan Park
Another beautiful square in Tetouan and for sure my favourite one! Once you enter it, you will see the view of the white houses in the medina and surrounding hills.
Kasbah
The building itself is closed for restoration and in the future the museum will be opened inside. However, it’s still worth walking around as the views over the medina, cemetery and mountains in the background are simply breathtaking.
Jbel Dersa Park and Tower
For even better panoramic views than from the Kasbah, hike up to the tower located at the top of Jbel Dersa. It’s about 5,5 kilometres if you decide to start in the city centre but you may shorten the distance by taking a taxi to the end of the asphalt road.
Modern Art Museum
The School of Fine Arts is located in the former railway station to Ceuta. The building is beautifully renovated and hosts contemporary Moroccan art plus some temporary exhibitions.
Cape Spartel and Hercules Caves are great spots to check out if you’re visiting Tangier for more than one day. Visiting them will take you about half a day, but you can easily make it a full day if the weather is hot enough to let you spend some time enjoying beautiful nearby beaches.
When to go?
The climate on the Moroccan coast is enjoyable for most of the year. The best time to visit Tangier and its surroundings is fall (September to November) or spring (March to May) when the weather is ideal and the holiday crowds aren’t around. I visited in December and it was already a bit too cold for my liking, especially inside accommodations as usually there is no heating.
How to get there?
Cap Spartel is located about 14 kilometres from Tangier and it takes approximately 30 minutes to get there by car.
Grand Taxi
A shared grand taxi is the least expensive option. You will need to wait until the taxi fills up, but usually, it doesn’t take long. I waited for about 20 minutes. Taxis can be found next to Mohammed V Mosque, just before the roundabout if walking from the medina side. Expect to pay 20 MAD per person.
For the way back, grand taxis wait at the roundabout next to Le Mirage and Hercules Caves. If you don’t want to wait for other passengers, expect to pay 80-100 MAD for a private ride back to Mohammed V Mosque in Tangier.
Bus
There is no public bus going to Cap Spartel, however, the Tangier Tourist Hop On Hop Off Bus has a route there. Check the details on their website.
Cap Spartel Lighthouse
Being located at the most north-western point of Africa, it provides beautiful views of the blue sea where the Mediterranean Sea meets the Atlantic Ocean. The lighthouse has been in operation since 1864 and was the first one of its kind along the Moroccan coastline.
One of the most interesting historical events that took place in the area was The Battle of Cape Spartel, on 29 September 1936 during the Spanish Civil War. The engagement took place between two Nationalist cruisers and two Republican destroyers, and broke the Republican blockade of the Strait of Gibraltar, securing the naval supply route to Spanish Morocco for the Nationalists early in the war.
The combined ticket to the lighthouse grounds and the observation deck at the top cost 50 MAD for foreign visitors. There is also a small museum on the ground floor but without any captions in English.
Achakkar Beach
A long sandy beach en route to Hercules Caves, with an option for a camel ride.
Hercules Caves
It’s about 4.5 kilometres from Cap Spartel to Hercules Caves and the path is very scenic so I recommend walking instead of taking a ride. There are some nicely located cafes if you feel like resting and listening to the sound of waves.
When it comes to the caves itself… Well, let’s say it wasn’t the most interesting cave that I have seen in my life. The entrance ticket for foreigners costs 60 MAD and I can honestly call it a rip-off. There is absolutely nothing to see besides opening to the sea with a shape resembling the African continent.
And what does it have to do with Hercules? According to the legend, Hercules spent a night there before stealing the golden apples from the Garden of the Hesperides as part of his 12 labours given to him by King Eurystheus. Ancient Greek writers claimed that the garden was located nearby at Lixus (today it’s an archaeological site near Larache).
The man-made part was used by Berber people to cut stone wheels from the walls. Later on, the Hercules Caves were also used as a brothel and a shelter used by smugglers.
The Souss Massa National Park has been a natural reserve since 1991 and it covers an area of 33,800 hectares. It is located between Agadir to the north and Sidi Ifni to the south, including the landscape of the coastline, dunes, marshes and the steppes.
Over 300 plant species and over 30 fauna species can be found there, including the Oryx antelope and the Dorcas gazelle, as well as foxes and wild cats. Moreover, the Souss Massa Natural Park is home to the world’s largest colony of Bald Ibis and the wetlands act as a stopover for many other migratory birds.
When to go?
The climate on the Moroccan coast is enjoyable for most of the year. The best time to visit Souss-Massa National Park is spring (March to May) and fall (September to November) when the weather is ideal. In summer it can get extremely hot and December is the wettest month, although it doesn’t rain too much anyway. I visited the park at the beginning of October and it was simply perfect!
How to get there?
There are two entrances: one called Rokein Reserve, located near Takate and Ihchach, about 20 km from Agadir and the second one called Ourais Reserve, located near Sidi Binzarne, about 65 km from Agadir.
The easiest way to explore the park is with a rental car. It gives you full flexibility to organize the day as you like and it will also be the cheapest option. You can get a good vehicle for 25 – 40 EUR per day while an organized day trip costs about 70-80 EUR per person.
I recommend using the service of Click’n’Go Car Rental. Very friendly guys and easy to contact on WhatsApp. I ended up renting a Renault Clio for the whole month and got a nice price. For visiting Souss-Massa National Park any car is fine and you don’t need a 4×4 unless you really want to do some off-roading.
If you don’t want to drive, the only option is to join an organized tour. Most hotels will be able to get you in touch with travel agents or do your research online.
How much time should you plan?
Visiting all three major sites: Rokein Reserve, Tifnit and Ourais takes the whole day. After that, return to Agadir or spend the night in Tiznit, which is worth discovering too.
Where to stay?
In Agadir, I spent a few nights in Hotel Lynx. It’s not a resort but I wasn’t looking for one. The receptionist was very friendly, the room was spacious and comfortable and there was a small balcony too. Breakfast was not included but there are lots of restaurants all around so it wasn’t a big deal.
In Tiznit, I recommend Hotel Amoudou, located very close to the medina.
Rokein Reserve
Upon arrival, I was greeted by a staff member who explained two options for visiting a park. The first was a shorter loop dedicated to hikers (3 km), and the second was much longer and involved driving your car with a guide. Of course, I decided on the longer one as I had a car and I wanted to explore more remote sections of the part. The ticket cost me 150 MAD. The guide hopped inside the car and we started our mini safari in a Clio 🙂
The guide spoke limited English so I couldn’t learn too much but we had some basic conversation and he was pointing out the animals that we were passing by. Mostly there were gazelles, ostriches, onyxes and some birds. It made me want to do some big safari in Africa soon! We left the car several times and walked to the observation points. One of them was particularly nice, with a large number of animals resting or grazing. According to my guide, they often gather there as it’s closer to the ocean and as a result, more windy and cooler.
Tifnit
Next, I went to see Tifnit, a fishing village with houses packed between the beach and the cliff. I walked along the coast and saw some cave dwellings, that probably used to be occupied by fishermen but at that time they rather looked abandoned.
Ourais Reserve
Another entrance to Souss-Massa National Park is located near Sidi Binzarne. The entrance doesn’t cost anything but I am sure you will be offered a service of a guide as soon as you park your car. There is no need for that as the way is very easy to follow, the question is if you can say no 🙂 If you decide to take one, it will cost you about 200 MAD but feel free to negotiate. The hiking trail goes along the river (Oued Massa) towards the beach with huge dunes and is about 10 kilometres long. Keep an eye out for some birds. On the day of my visit, the fog was hanging over the ocean, creating a mysterious atmosphere.
Once you reach the ocean, turn right and walk along the beach towards cave dwellings. On your rights, you will pass by a fancy hotel: Ksar Massa. If you want to check out the cave dwellings inside, approach one of the fishermen hanging out in front of it and I’m sure they will let you have a look for a few dirhams. I must say, observing how people live and how different those lifestyles are is one of the most memorable of my travel experiences.
Take the concrete pavement climbing up and start the way back, this time following the cliff edge. The wide sandy road will take you back to the trail along Oued Massa which you already walked before. Follow it again to return to the parking.
Summary
All in all, this was a day well spent and I truly enjoyed my time in the national park. It’s a great place to visit for those staying in Agadir, who want to escape the big city, see the magnificent Atlantic coast and hopefully spot some wild animals.
