Introduction

For most tourists, the city of Trat is only a transit point for trips to the popular Koh Chang, Koh Mak and Koh Kut islands. But is it worth stopping for a little bit longer?

There aren’t any breathtaking sights or big resorts or party streets full of bars. It’s a normal town. Just that. So if you are looking for a local atmosphere, away from the crowds of tourists that you may encounter on the islands, make at least a few hours stop in Trat and you won’t regret it. 

Trat is also a paradise for fruit lovers as it is, next to Chanthaburi, one of the main fruit growing areas of Thailand.  Especially between March and August, local markets are full of inexpensive varieties of locally grown fruits.

Historic background

The history of Trat starts in the early 17th century during the reign of King Prasat Thong of the Ayutthaya Kingdom. It was known as Mueang Thung Yai and due to its strategic location, it had an important role in the development of the country’s stability. The town of Trat later become a community of Chinese merchants.

When Ayutthaya fell to the Burmese in 1767, Trat served as a checkpoint and buffer city and was responsible for providing provisions to King Taksin the Great before he moved his forces from Chanthaburi to Ayutthaya. King Taksin later on succeeded in getting rid of the Burmese invaders and freed the kingdom from foreign rule.

In the Rattanakosin era, during the 1893 Paknam crisis, French troops landed and occupied the western part of Chanthaburi province. In 1904, Siam was forced to surrender Trat to French Indochina to regain Chanthaburi. Three years later, however, finding that Trat with its almost entirely Thai population was hard to rule, the French returned Trat to Thailand on 23 March 1907, in exchange for larger areas along the Mekong river, which included Battambang, Siam Nakhon, and Sisophon, which all had a Khmer majority population.

During the French-Thai War of 1940–1941, the Vichy French navy sailed from Saigon to seize Trat. The unprepared Thai warships were caught by surprise. By the end of the 17 January 1941 Battle of Ko Chang, three Thai ships had been left sinking: the HTMS Chonburi, HTMS Songkhla, and HTMS Thonburi. French casualties were light with no ships lost. The Japanese government negotiated a truce, which ended the conflict without further fighting.

When the Vietnamese pushed the Khmer Rouge out of Cambodia in 1985, Pol Pot fled to Thailand and made his headquarters in a plantation villa near Trat. It was built for him by the Thai Army and nicknamed “Office 87”.

based on wikipedia.com

How to get to Trat?

By bus/minivan

The town can be easily reached by buses or minibuses from Bangkok. It’s more than 300 km and takes about 5 hours of travel time.

If you travel from Cambodia, Trat is about 90 km west of the border and one of the frequent buses that depart from Had Lek can take you there.

By plane

Trat has also its own small airport with flights from Bangkok operated by Bangkok Airways. However, the total cost of travel, including transfer to the town or pier to the islands is totally not worth it.

When to go?

The town itself can be visited at any time of the year but if you want to continue the visit to the islands,  the best would be the cool season, which runs from November to the end of February, and the hot season, which runs from March to April. The remaining part of the year is the rainy season, with unpredictable weather and a quiet atmosphere.

How long to stay?

It’s a small town so I would say that one full day or even half of it should be enough to visit all the interesting places and try local food.

Where to stay?

I spent one night in Mukda Guesthouse and it was perfectly located within walking distance of all sights. The room was very clean and comfy. I can totally recommend it!

Getting around

The best is to just walk. Alternatively, you may want to rent a bicycle or take a motorbike taxi. Grab transportation doesn’t work here, so you have to look around on the street to find a driver.

Places to visit in Trat

Wat Buppharam

It is thought to be the oldest temple in the city, built in the Ayutthaya period. Have a look at the praying hall, the chapel and the Vikhara temple. There is also a folk museum with Buddha images and potteries.

Residence Kampot

Located on Lak Muang Road in Talat Yai area in the center of Trat. The place was built during the reign of Chulalongkorn The Great (Rama V) when Trat was taken over by the French. It was a residence of a French bureaucrat authorized by the French government to govern Trat province and became a governor’s residence later. The Residence is a 3-storey semi-wooden house, topped with a hip roof.

Trat Museum

Housed in former City Hall on Santisook Road.  It is a large wooden building that was originally built during the French occupation.  Over the years it fell into disrepair and was unused before being rebuilt in the early 2000s.  The museum covers the history of the Trat area.  From prehistoric settlements to its early days as an important stopover for Chinese traders and further to the occupation by the French in the early 1900s and the World War Two Battle of Koh Chang. Most information is in both Thai & English. Entry to the museum is 30 Baht for foreign visitors.

City Pillar Shrine

When King Taksin came to gather troops here, he ordered to build this city pillar which was believed by the Chinese to protect the city from enemies and to bring peace to the people. . The City Pillar is the centre of the Thai-Chinese relationship. Apart from the city pillar, an ancient Khmer style Shiva Linga, found in Huai Raeng Sub-district, is on display.

Wat Pai Lom

Due to the fact that it is the residence of Than Chaokhun Phra Wimonmethachan Worayannurak, the father of education, Wat Phai Lom seems to be the most important temple in Trat. Visitors can visit the Buddhist Garden which is open to the public as a meditation practice place. 

Around Trat

Ban Nam Chiao Community

Ban Nam Chiao Community is an ecotourism community, which represents the coastal fishermen’s way of life. The villagers were originally Thai Buddhists. Later on, the mixture between two ethnicities was created since many of the Chinese merchants cruised in with goods to sell at the Ban Nam Chiao Pier, and finally settled in the area. In the reign of King Rama III, the Khmer Muslims (also known as Khaek Cham or Champa) immigrated from the war in their homeland to settle along the canal in Ban Nam Chiao. More of them kept coming in, so the two religions were allowed to get married, and they became like siblings and lived together in peace. Nowadays, most of the locals earn their living from fishery, rubber and orchard plantations, as well as trade. 

Ko Chang Naval Battle Memorial

On 17 January 1941, one of the most important battles in the history of the Royal Thai Navy took place. At that time, the French advantageously invaded the Thai territorial waters in the Ko Chang area with its 7 battleships whilst the Royal Thai Navy only had 3. Yet, they had the spirit to fight bravely even though the battle ended with the sacrifice of 36 marine lives and all 3 battleships which sank into the sea.

Namtok Saphan Hin

Beautiful waterfall, well off the beaten track. Free entry!

Introduction

Koh Jum is a peaceful island located in Krabi Province, between Koh Lanta and Krabi town. The beaches are long and very often completely empty, accommodation prices are more than affordable and local people are relaxed. It’s not a place for parties though, so if you are after fun, your destination should be elsewhere. For those who enjoy a quiet atmosphere, the island is definitely worth visiting. Have a look at some more details!

How to get to Koh Jum?

Transfer to Koh Jum is possible by ferry, speed boat or longtail boat. In the normal seasons, ferries used to operate between Krabi Town and Koh Lanta, stopping at Ko Jum which is located just between them. During the pandemic and even when writing this post, (15/04/2022) such an option isn’t possible. There might be a speedboat doing that route once or twice a day but it’s better to ask at one of the travel agents and get the most up to date information. Certainly, it’s still possible to charter longtail boats but it will be quite an expensive option.

Another way to get from Krabi to Ko Jum is via Laem Kruat harbour, only 30 minutes from Krabi Airport. This is how I got there and it was really easy. Longtail boats leave for Koh Jum every hour. The price is 100 baht per person, plus some extra baht in case you want to take your motorbike to the island, which I did too. The only disadvantage was that the last return boat was at 3:30 PM, so if you are planning just one day trip, arrive at the pier as early as possible.

When to go?

The best time to visit Koh Jum is the same as for all other Andaman sea islands: from December to April. The weather is stable and rain is rare. If you are planning to go outside of the main season, check the boat schedule and availability of accommodation well in advance.

How long to stay?

It’s a small island so I would say that 1 full day should be enough to visit all the interesting places. However, if you want to soak more into the local community and just relax doing nothing on the beach, consider staying overnight. Certainly, you won’t regret it.

Where to stay?

Resorts are mainly located on the southern part of Koh Jum, along the Golden Pearl Beach / Long Beach. I won’t recommend any because I didn’t stay overnight on the island, but you shouldn’t have problems finding what you are looking for on booking.com.

Getting around the island

There are rather no other options than renting a motorbike or arranging a tuk-tuk service at the pier. A bicycle might be nice as well, as the terrain is mostly flat, but yeah, it’s still hot as hell.

What to see on Koh Jum?

Koh Jum Village

It is the biggest village on the island. There are some shops and restaurants, as well as motorbike rental points and tour agencies offering trips and transfer options. But the best thing to do is just stroll around and observe the local lifestyle.

Golden Pearl Beach and Long Beach

Long white sandy beach, crystal clear water under the blue sky. Does it sound idyllic to you? For more active ones, it’s nice to take a walk to the eastern tip of the island with Ko Pe Lat just in front of it.

Ao Si Beach and Magic Beach

Another good spot for swimming and sunbathing. Locals like to gather here so it’s a nice observation to see how life goes on. And it goes on slowly.

Coconut Beach

A good place to see the sunset, most of the time it’s perfectly empty. Unfortunately, trash is a big problem here.

Sunset Beach and Secret Beach

These two are more remote and more difficult to access as you need to follow dirt road which is also very bumpy. On the plus side, you will most likely be alone there. As of February 2022, the new road leading to a nearby resort was being built, so I guess in the future access will be easier.

Is it worth going to Koh Jum?

If you are looking for a calm and relaxing place, far away from the crowds, with not much more to do than just laying in your hammock, then it’s definitely a good place to be. Otherwise, Koh Lanta or Ao Nang, both with much more activities to do but also more tourists, would fit you better.